• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.59-67
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• 2006

In textile industry of $21^{st}$ century, to develop materials and designs in fashion industry is being recognized widely as an urgent problem. In other words, the reality is that we must offer scarcity value and unique materials, and make a positive effort in a time when consumers' individuality appeals and an interest in fashion becomes higher. Felt is not only the oldest material in human history, but also a technique, and its applications are being handed down broadly. I have made various materials based mainly on a traditional felt technique using merino wool and nuno felt technique felting merino wool to cotton gauze. In nuno felt thing, I could observe that as wool and cotton was created as a single composite material, each material's aesthetic, sensuous, functional and emotional description became much more diversified. The purpose of this study is to produce fashion materials using materials with rich texture to meet the consumers' preference and diversity which are increasingly individualized, to design them and to seek possibility of developing differentiated wool materials which can satisfy the consumers' individuality demand and preference.

• Asian-Australasian Journal of Animal Sciences
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.507-514
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• 2001

Two experiments were carried out to investigate whether duckweed is useful as a dietary protein source for fine-wool Merino sheep and to evaluate its effects on wool yield and characteristics. In Experiment 1, the sheep were given one of three maintenance diets consisting of oaten chaff (520-700 g/d) supplemented with 16-32 g crude protein/d in the form of fresh (1 kg/d) or sun-dried (50-100 g/d) duckweed. Each ration was estimated to provide 5.4 MJ (1.3 Mcal)/d of metabolisable energy (ME). The sheep readily ingested the fresh or dried duckweed. None of the wool measures (yield, rate of fibre elongation, fibre diameter) differed (p>0.05) between dietary treatments. In Experiment 2, oaten-chaff-based diets (800 g/d) supplying 6.5-7.2 MJ (1.6-1.7 Mcal)/d of ME were supplemented with iso-nitrogenous amounts (4-5 g N) either of urea (8 g), cottonseed meal (60 g) or dried duckweed (100 g). In this experiment, the rate of wool fibre elongation, thought to be related to intestinal amino acid absorption, was lower (p<0.05) for sheep given the oaten chaff/urea diet than for those given either oaten chaff/cottonseed meal or oaten chaff/duckweed for which the rates did not differ (p>0.05). Fibre diameter, which ranged from 16.0-16.7 mm, did not differ (p>0.05) between diets, but tended to be lower on the oaten chaff/urea diet so that volume of wool produced was also significantly lower (p<0.05) on this diet than on the diets containing duckweed or cottonseed meal. Rumen ammonia concentrations at 4.5 and 7.5 h after feeding were higher (p<0.05) for sheep given the oaten chaff/urea diet than for those given the other two diets. A comparison of the rumen ammonia concentrations, wool growth rate and predicted flows of amino acids from the rumen of sheep supplemented with duckweed rather than cottonseed meal suggested that duckweed is a valuable source of 'escape protein' for ruminants.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.163-168
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• 2004

The domestic textile industry is currently making an active effort to present high value-added materials that can respond immediately to the wants and needs of consumers sensitive to the of originality of design and emotionally appealing fashion materials. This paper attempted to present the creative development of materials in the contemporary clothing culture in which consumers' needs are individualized and differentiated and the cycle of life in fashion materials is getting shorter. To be specific, the paper presented the texture of peculiar expression to diverse cotton materials using the Woolsmok technique in the processing of felt. The chosen Merino wool was felted to 8 kinds of cotton with different density and structure. The touch, texture, visibility and complex susceptibilities of new materials were presented as different materials of cotton and wool were transformed into one material. In felting cotton fiber through wool, the transformation of diverse textures was presented and compared in the method using the washing machine in an attempt to enhance the efficiency of the traditional craft technique and work. This study proposed the possibility of placing the new material made up of cotton and wool beyond the range of functionality of each simple material, activating it as the peculiar material and expanding it to the range of its use as fashion material in the clothing industry. It is expected that this material will become competitive material at home and abroad by being activated as the clothing material of artistry, workability and marketability that can satisfy the tastes of consumers who call for high quality and diversification.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.10-16
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• 1997

Merino wool top and fabric have been treated with steams such as superheated steam or high pressure steam. Moisture regain, water absorbency, water penetration, zeta potential, ESCA, SEM, and dyeing behavior were studied. Negative electric potential on the surface of wool fibers by steam treatment became higher than untreated. From the results of ESCA measurement, intensity of $O_{1s}$ was increased by steam treatment. Rate of dyeing and saturation dye exhaustion of wools increased by steam treatment, especially high pressure steam treatment. Moisture regain, water absorbency, water penetration, and surface appearances by SEM photographs of the steam-treated wools didn't change. There is no relationship between dyeing of the steam-treated wool and wettability to water. Therefore It seems likely that relaxation of adhesive filler in interscale of wool by steam treatment accelerate dye penetration into the fiber.

• Asian-Australasian Journal of Animal Sciences
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.775-783
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• 2018

Objective: The purpose of this study was to investigate the genetic effects of six keratin (KRT) genes on the wool traits of 418 Chinese Merino (Xinjiang type) (CMXT) individuals. Methods: To explore the effects and association of six KRT genes on sheep wool traits, The polymerase chain reaction-based single-strand conformation polymorphism (PCR-SSCP), DNA sequencing, and the gene pyramiding effect methods were used. Results: We report 20 mutation sites (single-nucleotide polymorphisms) within the six KRT genes, in which twelve induced silent mutations; five induced missense mutations and resulted in $Ile{\rightarrow}Thr$, $Glu{\rightarrow}Asp$, $Gly{\rightarrow}Ala$, $Ala{\rightarrow}Ser$, $Se{\rightarrow}His$; two were nonsense mutations and one was a same-sense mutation. Association analysis showed that two genotypes of the KRT31 gene were significantly associated with fiber diameter (p<0.05); three genotypes of the KRT36 gene were significantly associated with wool fineness score and fiber diameter (p<0.05), three genotypes of the KRT38 gene were significantly associated with the number of crimps (p<0.05); and three genotypes of the KRT85 gene were significantly associated with wool crimps score, body size, and fiber diameter (p<0.05). Analysis of the gene pyramiding effect between the different genotypes of the gene loci KRT36, KRT38, and KRT85, each genotype in a gene locus was combined with all the genotypes of another two gene loci and formed the different three loci combinations, indicated a total of 26 types of possible combined genotypes in the analyzed population. Compared with the other combined genotypes, the combinations CC-GG-II, CC-HH-IJ, CC-HH-JJ, DD-HH-JJ, CC-GH-IJ, and CC-GH-JJ at gene loci KRT36, KRT38, and KRT85, respectively, had a greater effect on wool traits (p<0.05). Conclusion: Our results indicate that the mutation loci of KRT31, KRT36, KRT38, and KRT85 genes, as well as the combinations at gene loci KRT36, KRT38, and KRT85 in CMXT have significant effects on wool traits, suggesting that these genes are important candidate genes for wool traits, which will contribute to sheep breeding and provide a molecular basis for improved wool quality in sheep.

• Asian-Australasian Journal of Animal Sciences
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• v.20 no.11
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• pp.1761-1769
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• 2007

This experiment was conducted to determine the extent to which susceptibility to cortisol-induced follicle shutdown is influenced by fleece phentotype. Twenty Finewool (10 sheep low fibre diameter, low coefficient of fibre diameter-LL and 10 low fibre diameter, high coefficient of variation of fibre diameter-LH) and twenty Strongwool (10 low fibre diameter, low coefficient of variation of fibre diameter-HL and 10 high fibre diameter and high coefficient of variation of fibre diameter-HH) sheep of 9 months of age were individually penned in an animal house and were injected intramuscularly with an aqueous suspension of hydrocortisone acetate at a rate of 1.42 mg/kg body weight for a period of two weeks. Fibre diameter was measured from clipped tattooed patch wool samples. Follicle activity was measured by histological changes in skin biopsies taken weekly. Blood samples were collected at two-week intervals and plasma cortisol measured. Increased plasma cortisol concentration significantly (p<0.05) reduced clean wool production and mean fibre diameter dropped to its lowest level four weeks after commencement and two weeks after the cessation of cortisol injection. Elevation of plasma cortisol concentration significantly (p<0.0001) increased the percentage of inactive follicles two weeks after injection started. High fibre diameter groups (Strongwool sheep; i.e. HL+HH) had significantly (p<0.0001) higher percentage of follicle shutdown than low fibre diameter groups (Finewool sheep; i.e. LL+LH). Average percentage of shutdown follicles for Finewool (LL+LH) and Strongwool (HL+HH) Merino sheep was $9.8{\pm}0.9$ and $13.5{\pm}0.9$ respectively. Shutdown of primary follicles was more pronounced in Finewool than Strongwool sheep. There was no significant effect of coefficient of variation of fibre diameter on propensity to follicle shutdown induced by exogenous cortisol. It is concluded that elevation in plasma cortisol concentration is inhibitory to the normal activity of follicles in Strongwool sheep but that variation in fibre diameter has little or no effect.

• Asian-Australasian Journal of Animal Sciences
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.197-204
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• 2010

Two studies were conducted to determine the effects of replacing 30% (% in diet DM) of lucerne (Medicago sativa L.) hay with citrus pulp in Merino ewe diets: i) an in vitro study which measured ruminal fermentation; and ii) an in vivo study in which twelve Merino ewes pre- and post-lambing were fed experimental diets in a cross-over design over 120 days to evaluate effects on ewe performance (i.e. DM intake, average daily gain (ADG) and wool growth). In both the in vitro and in vivo studies, the control treatment consisted of lucerne (91.3% in diet DM), lupins (8.3% in diet DM) and phosphate (0.42% in diet DM), while the citrus pulp treatment consisted of lucerne (57.7% in diet DM), lupins (9.5% in diet DM), phosphate (0.48% in diet DM) and fresh citrus pulp (32.3% in diet DM). Data were analysed using the mixed model procedure of SAS. In the in vitro study, gas production, total volatile fatty acid (VFA) yield, proportion of propionic acid to total VFA and in vitro dry matter digestibility (IVDMD) were higher (p<0.02) in the citrus pulp treatment compared to the control treatment. In contrast, in vitro ammonia production, pH and the acetate to propionate ratio were lower (p<0.03) for the citrus pulp treatment compared to the control treatment. In the in vivo study, DM intake of ewes fed the citrus pulp diet was lower than their control ewe counterparts throughout both the pre- and post-lambing periods (928.9 vs. 1,115.0 g/d pre-; 1,285.0 vs. 1,620.3 g/d post-lambing, p<0.01), however ADG was similar (p = 0.12). Wool growth parameters and lamb performance did not differ (p>0.32) between treatments. In summary, the in vitro study demonstrated that the replacement of 30% of a lucerne diet with fresh citrus pulp improved total VFA yield, increased total gas production and improved IVDMD, while decreasing the production of ammonia, acetic acid and rumen pH. In addition, the in vivo study demonstrated that the replacement of 30% of a lucerne diet with fresh citrus pulp pre- and post-lambing decreased intake but did not affect ewe performance in terms of ADG and wool growth. These findings, of course, would be of significant interest to sheep producers endeavouring to control cost of feed ingredients whilst maintaining productivity.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.40-46
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• 1995

In order to study the dyeability of wool S-cyano ethylated wool-keratine(SCEK) as a model compound of wool was prepared from the reaction of reduced merino wool fiber and acrylonitrile. The binding of acid dyes(methyl orange and it's homologs) by SCEK over the temperature 60~9$0^{\circ}C$ were investigated. The first binding constants and the thermodynamic parameters in the course of the binding were evaluated. It was found that at the 60~9$0^{\circ}C$ range complex formation between the dye and SCEK is associated with an exothermic enthalpy change and a positive entropy change. The enthalpy and entropy changes of the binding are of the order of -4.5 kcal/mole and 8.5 eu, respectively, for each dye measured. Thus the binding is mainly enthalpy-controlled. Furthermore the effect of the alkyl chain length of the dye on both the ΔH$^{\circ}$and ΔS$^{\circ}$value is not prounced. Also temperature dependences of the ΔH$^{\circ}$and ΔS$^{\circ}$values were not obserbed.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.15-25
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• 1996

Wool fabric and merino wool top were dyed with two dyes, C.I. Acid Red 13 and C.I. Direct Blue 1 in presence of hydrogen peroxide/glyoxal redox system at various conditions such as dyeing time, temperature and redox concentration. The pH of dye bath was 4.5 in buffer solution of $KH_{2}PO_{4}$ (0.1mol/1)/$Na_{2}HPO_{4}$ (0.1mol/1). Also dyeing of cotton fabric was carried out with C.I. Direct Blue 1 in absence or presence of redox system. The color depth(K/S) increased with redox concentration and dyeing temperature. The increases in dyeing rate and equilibrium dye exhaustion of Acid Acid 13 and Direct Blue 1 on wool fiber and fabric in the present of hydrogen peroxide/glyoxal have been caused by decreasing in pH value during dyeing process which due to the decomposition of hydrogen ion in glyoxal with the assistance of hydrogen peroxide. But the decreases in exhaustion of Direct Blue 1 on cotton may be attributed to repulsive interac ion between salt and salt.

• Asian-Australasian Journal of Animal Sciences
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• v.18 no.10
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• pp.1403-1406
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• 2005

The present study was undertaken to study the effect of thermal stress on sexual behaviour of superovulated ewes. Fourteen adult Bharat Merino ewes with an average body weight of 29.4${\pm}$2.34 kg were randomly allocated into two groups of 7 each. All the animals were grazed on natural pasture in the morning and evening hours and housed in shed during night. Animals of Group-1 were housed in shed from 10:00 to 16:00 h while the animals of Group-2 were exposed to thermal stress in a hot chamber ($40^{\circ}C$ /6 h/day). All the animals were offered drinking water once a day at 16:30 h. Meteorological observations i.e. dry bulb, wet bulb, minimum and maximum temperature were recorded daily inside the shed as well as in hot chamber throughout the experimental period. For superovulation of animals, standard protocol developed at the Institute, using FSH (Ovagen 5.4 mg in eight injections) and PMSG (200 IU) was followed. Various sexual behaviour parameters (circling, tail fanning, head turning, standing and approaching to ram) and estrus incidence (onset of estrus and estrus duration) were observed in both the groups. The different estrus symptoms were graded subjectively on arbitrary scale of 0-5 where 0 representing no sexual behaviour (0%) and 5 representing maximum intensity in sexual behaviour (100%). Estrus was detected with the help of a marked aproned ram of proven vigor at six hourly intervals. The average percent values for sexual behaviour parameters recorded in Group-1 and Group-2 animals were 53.7${\pm}$3.76 vs. 41.1${\pm}$2.18 for circling, 71.8${\pm}$5.42 vs. 49.0${\pm}$4.41 for tail fanning, 64.7${\pm}$3.30 vs. 44.5${\pm}$4.34 for head turning, 90.1${\pm}$3.16 vs. 75.8${\pm}$4.02 for standing and 63.8${\pm}$4.8 vs. 41.9${\pm}$4.58 for approaching to ram. Animals exposed to thermal stress had significantly lower values of these sexual behaviour parameters. The animals kept in shed exhibited estrus earlier (25.4${\pm}$1.12 h) and duration was higher (37.7${\pm}$1.59 h) as compared to animals exposed to thermal stress i.e. 30.6${\pm}$1.16 h and 31.7${\pm}$3.57 h, respectively. The findings of the study indicate that thermal stress reduces the intensity of sexual behaviour in ewes and may result in failure of the animal to mate and conceive.