• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.227-234
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to investigate how the Post-modernism social cultural pattern has been reflected in collar of costume. In the classes social, collar in costume is the expressive medium of ideology and status symbol such as Passium of ancian Ezypt and Byzantin collar which is examined religion belif. The conspicuous function of collar can be examed as the ruff collar, which is the expressive medium of self-confidence, but the whisk collar and the flat collar means decline the authorized conspicous function. In the cultural pattern of Post-modernism, collar in costume presents the coexistence of double-sides value such as androgyny, dividinism and eclecticism. For example, the tailored collar or shirt collar in women's suit with delicate materials express the self-confidence, energy and intelligence, and the round collar or the draped collar in men's suit with rough material express the sensibility and liberty. In the deconstructivity through breaking the basis form of the collar, callar can be transformed in to sleeve, cape or hat on occasion. In conclusion, the function of collar changes by the cultural pattern and expresses the spirit.

• Journal of the Korea Convergence Society
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• v.8 no.12
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• pp.243-248
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• 2017

This study set the standard for label standardization of foreign sports apparel. Based on the theory of labels, the labels were scanned around the internal T-shirt of sports apparel brands. Based on the plan, 32 young men and women surveyed 32 tentative labels. As a result, The survey revealed that the respondents preferred the information of size, fit, washing symbol mark, and function. Based on these results, the complementary labels were designed for balance, simplicity, coherency, cognitive, and harmonization. The study interviewed 12 men and women in their 20s and 30s. As a result, the subjects indicated that they selected cognitive preference for labels because of the maximum, minimum spacing, and emphasis on information representative.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.635-643
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• 2011

This study was investigated to evaluate the physiological responses on T-shirts manufactured with selected functional materials by body parts which were selectioned on the distribution of sweating and temperature change. Seven healthy men in twenties were participated in a climate chamber of $27{\pm}0.5^{\circ}C$ and $50{\pm}1%RHC$. Three kinds of T-shirts named 'D1', 'D2' and 'Poly' were used as experimental clothings. Four kinds of functional materials of quick absorbing/drying were used in all section in 'D1', but two kinds of functional materials used partially in 'D2'. 'Poly' T-shirts used only polyester. In an experimental schedule of 90 minutes, which were consisted of 'Rest', twice of 'Exercise' and twice of 'Recovery' periods, the subjects walked on a treadmill with 60% of $VO_2max$. As a physiological responses, the microclimate temperature, surface temperature(skin, clothing) and sweat rate were measured. Temperature regulation was kept well in 'D1' rather than other T-shirts. The quick absorbing/drying T-shirts showed its performance well as the exercise goes on the second half. With these results in mind, 'D1' will be more effective for long hours exercise such as climbing rather than short hours exercise.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.73-85
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to understand what the Glam Style is, focus on the movie "Velvet Goldmine". The Glam Style is refered early 1970s Glam rockers' costume, typified by silver lurex, corksoled platform, men in make-up, personified, for example, by David Bowie, Marc Bolan, New York Dolls, Roxy Music and Iggy Pop. To approach the Glam Style comprehensively, I have divided the formative background of Glam Style into the improvement technology, the advent of the young generation and the diffusion of mass media, the rock music fever and influence on Pop art. Following is the result of analyzing of the character in the movie. First, Brian Slade has the flamboyant transsexual image by skin-tight space suit, glitter pants, lurex, satin and sequined stretch fabrics, vivid color, gauze make-up, feather boa. Second, Curt Wild expresses the outrageous sexual image by black leather jacket, emphasized black eyes make-up. Third, Mandy Slade appears the exaggerated and frivolous image by gold leopard patterned one piece, fur coat, ornamented with beads, tropical make-up, spangles and the costume jewelry. Forth, Auther Stuart has the complex image by black leather jacket, velvet jacket, skin-tight bold shirt, glitter pants, glitter make-up, silk scarf, cherry-red sunglasses. The characteristics meaning of Glam Style implied in this formative characteristic could be presented as the experimental expression of androgynous, the hordes of outrageous alien and kitsch parody.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.8
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• pp.1274-1285
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• 2002

The purposes of this study are to help the authorized textbooks on home economics be selected and used effectively, to provide basic data that are needed to improve the quality of home economics textbooks, and to suggest a next curriculum on home economics. In the study, eight high school home economics textbooks for "6th Curriculum developed by Ministrv of Education and Human Resources Development"were used for the analysis. The results are summarized as follows: there were wide differences in degrees of diversity and accomplishment in the contents of textbooks. In comparison, it was unfolded that three areas, "family", "home resource management" and "consumer" ,occupied much larger portions than other areas. About 81 percent of the authors of home economics textbooks were professors. A contents analysis on the clothing area showed that every textbook includes costume culture, clothing materials, clothing maintenance, and clothing construction. The presentation coverages and relative difficulties of textbooks were, however, diverse. It is somewhat noticeable that, while fewer professors majoring in clothing construction participated in writing, generally more pages were allocated to clothing construction than other areas. While presentations on anthropometrics method, construction theory, draft theory, usage of sewing machine and fitting theory were insufficient most textbooks were dealing with drafting of basic slopers and sewing procedure, etc. Making-up techniques on the apparels items such as Korean traditional men's pants, pajamas, shirt vest skirt, pants, apron and Korean pouch were handled closely in each textbook.

• Journal of Information Processing Systems
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.1277-1295
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• 2019

With its technical development, digital printing is being universally introduced to the mass production of clothing factories. At the same time, many fashion platforms have been made for customers' participation using digital printing, and a tool is provided in platforms for customers to make designs. However, there is no sufficient solution in the production stage for automatically converting a customer's design into a file before printing other than designating a square area for the pattern designed by the customer. That is, if 30 different designs come in from customers for one shirt, designers have to do the work of reproducing the design on the clothing pattern in the same location and in the same angle, and this work requires a great deal of manpower. Therefore, it is necessary to develop a technology which can let the customer make the design and, at the same time, reflect it in the clothing pattern. This is defined in relation to the existing clothing pattern with digital printing. This study yields a clothing pattern for digital printing which reflects a customer's design in real time by matching the diagram area where a customer designs on a given clothing model and the area where a standard pattern reflects the customer's actual design information. Designers can substitute the complex mapping operation of programmers with a simple area-matching operation. As there is no limit to clothing designs, the variousfashion design creations of designers and the diverse customizing demands of customers can be satisfied at low cost with high efficiency. This is not restricted to T-shirts or eco-bags but can be applied to all woven wear, including men's, women's, and children's clothing, except knitwear.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.551-568
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• 2007

The purposes of this study were to identify factors of dissatisfaction and complaining behavior in internet fashion shopping mall, and to investigate constructs of service recovery for solution to this problems. Data were obtained from 201(male: 87, female: 114) internet fashion shopping mall consumer who have experiences of dissatisfaction and complaining behavior after buying products, and were analyzed using by descriptive analysis, factor analysis, Cronbach' $\alpha$, t-test. The results were as follows. First, the most response(80.4% of reponses) was experience to dissatisfaction through internet fashion shopping mall, and the most dissatisfied items were blouse, sweater, T-shirt in upper garment. Also, in men's case, the most satisfied price zone was not exceeding $30,000{\sim}50,000\;won$ and in women's case, it was not exceeding $20,000{\sim}30,000\;won$. Second, 7 factors of dissatisfaction(called quality, payment, delivery, price, interaction, returning/changing/refunding, contract) were identified after purchasing fashion products from internet shopping mall. 3 factors of complaining behavior(called private action, legal action, remedial seeking action) were investigated. Third, constructs of perceived service recovery were extracted from literature review: perceived interaction and justice. Perceived interaction were categorized into two factors: the interaction on the part of the consumer, the interaction in the part of the shopping mall. And perceived justice were categorized into three factors: interactional justice, distributive justice, procedural justice. Usually, university students were likely to take a serious view of service recovery through interaction and justice with internet fashion shopping mall.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.59-71
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• 2006

This study contemplates Croatian traditional costumes with focus on its geographical characteristics and acculturation with neighbor countries as a member of old Yugoslavian Union. Therefore, it contains the information from field works based on Croatian language, native costumes and folk materials wildly. Men usually wear wide linen pants ($ga\'{c}$), shirt ($ko\v{s}ulje,\;rnbina)$, vest (lajbek), hat and jacket ($kro\v{z}et$). Also they sometimes wear scarves or aprons. Women put on blouse, long skirt, apron, headgear with various decoration and scarf ($pe\v{c}a$), shawl (tibetui robe) or necklace together. Croatian folk dresses fall into three different styles by provinces, such as Pannonia, Dinar and Adria, according to the basic environmental and racial characteristics of each province. People of Pannonia plain generally wear white linen clothing and often use flounce and lace, which are influenced by Serbia and Hungary. In the Dinar mountain province, aprons with tassel, knitted vests made of leather and fur are very popular. The clothing of Dinar province has much commonness with those of Bosnia - Herzegovina and Montenegro which have metal buttons and belts. And the clothing of Adria coast is influenced by Italy a lot. There are many splendid silk clothes in its folk dress code. As mentioned above, there are a lot of foreign influences in Croatian history. Although there were severe cultural invasions in many times through its history, Croatians didn't just surrender to these cultural influences. People in Croatia comply with these new coming culture and reconcile these into their own tradition and dress code in their own way.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.46 no.5
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• pp.836-847
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• 2022

This study establishes basic data for the development of a new Chemical, Biological, and Radioactive (CBR) protective clothing by selecting the ventilation position to optimize thermal comfort on the basis of the opening and closing of each part. Participants were eight men in their 20s who had previously worn CBR protective clothing. After vigorous exercise and perspiration, the microclimate of the clothing and skin temperature was measured. Results revealed that when the ventilation zipper was opened after exercising, the skin and clothing microclimate temperatures, which had increased during the exercise, decreased in the chest and shoulder blade regions. The clothing microclimate humidity decreased in the chest area. The change was greatest in the chest region; the skin temperature decreased by 0.2℃, the clothing microclimate temperature by 2.7℃, and the clothing microclimate humidity by 3.2%RH through ventilation. Thus, the opening that allows the exchange of accumulated heat and moisture while wearing the CBR protective clothing is efficient.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.7
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• pp.1109-1120
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• 2009

This study develops a fitted torso type basic pattern for men by utilizing 3D body scan data. Recent fashion trends are reflected in the development of the pattern. The subjects were 15 men in their 20's, who wear size 95 (M size). Body scan data was obtained through a 3D whole body scanner (WB4, Cyberware, USA), and a body surface development figure for developing male fitted torso type basic pattern was attained through the use of Rapid Form 2006 as well as Auto CAD 2006 programs. The results are as follows: A body surface development figure through body surface segment method showed high exactitude in an error range of 100$\pm$1%. In addition, it occurred in an error range of 100:1:3% because of the hard scanning conditions in the incline of the shoulder and armpit areas. However, the body surface development figure as well as the direct measurement results can be used as basic data for the given patternmaking since the error range falls into 100$\pm$3%. Dart amounts obtained from the average cross section were center back 2.2cm (24.3%), back armpit point 3.8cm (41.8%), front armpit point 3.0cm (33.9%). As shown the jacket pattern, the biggest dart amount was portioned out at the back armpit point. The drafting equations for the development pattern acquired are as follows; Full width=C/2+5cm, back length=height/4-1cm, armhole depth=(C/10+12cm)+3cm, back width=2C/10+2cm, front width=2C/10. The development pattern was a fitted torso basic pattern that was composed of 3 pieces, so it would be very useful in developing shirt or jacket patterns. According to the results of the evaluation of the developed pattern appearance, it obtained higher scores of over 3.5 points in almost items, meaning that the developed pattern is appropriate for a male fitted torso type basic pattern. It suggests a possibility of patternmaking from a body surface development figure in 2-D to prototype.