• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.30 no.6
• /
• pp.814-827
• /
• 2022

This study examines the social and artistic aspects of the Netherlands in the 16th century, focusing on the paintings of Pieter Bruegel the Elder (1525-1569), a repre- sentative Dutch painter at that time. Also analyzed were the types and characteristics of each item of the male populace's and nobles' costumes at that point in the Renaissance. The results are as follows: most of the populace's chemises do not have frills on the neckline and sleeves; the doublet has a loose body and sleeves overall; and the sleeves and armholes are fixed with sewing rather than being detachable, making the epaulet invisible. The neckline of the doublet usually does not have a collar, but it sometimes has a hood. In the case of trousers, most males are shown wearing waist-high stockings, and a piece of cord is visible. It seems that the populace's coats were mainly Spanish-style capes. The 16th-century Dutch populace's costumes are imitative-reflecting a desire to emulate the codpieces and hairstyles of the aristocrats-while providing individuality through hats and belts. In terms of practicality, it appears that a knife and pouch were used in various living environments. This trend can be seen as a reflection of populace's perception of the costume at the time.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.14 no.3
• /
• pp.128-145
• /
• 2010

Nowadays people are turning to have a more intimate environment-friendly lifestyles. In the clothing industry they are focusing on making products that are more human-friendly and not harmful to the environment. In the midst of the spread of consumption research is being done to develop manufacturing textiles that do not induce pollution. For instance, advantages of the natural textile fibers, cotton, silk, and ramie, have been newly recognized in terms of environment-friendliness, Together with these fibers, the natural high molecular materials, such as chitosan and hyaluronic acid, have found new roles in the application sectors of human-friendliness and environment-friendliness. Products using these substances and processing methods can make the products more wearable, have high sensitivity, make people feel aesthetic appreciation for the products, and make them appreciate the value of a more healthier environment. In a survey according to subjects in their 20s and 30s, their preferences towards their consciousness and awareness of the development of materials as well as their attitude towards environment-friendly products were determined as a conclusion. It was shown that consumers that are more conscious about the interest of the environment as well as the problems concerning the environment were more intent on buying products that were environmentally-friendly. Women have shown more active and positive attitudes towards the importance of the awareness of the environment in comparison with men. Generally, consumers in their 20s and 30s preferred the feel of materials that were less than 1% concentration process than those of materials that were 1% concentration process. To increase the "rustly" feeling of the materials, it was found that 1% concentration process was suitable for manufacturing.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.10 no.1
• /
• pp.99-116
• /
• 2008

This study reviewed pertinent literature and examined relics of manggon(a headband worn to hold a man's topknot hair in place), donggot(a topknot pin), and chigwan(a topknot cover). Before the modernized short hair style, wearing a gat was an important custom. Therefore, manggon, which was used to hold a man's hair in place under the gat, was considered an essential part of the man's official dress code. Donggot is a pin that held the topknot hair in place. It was a must have for a married man, like the binyeo, a lod-like hairpin, for a married woman. Unlike gwanja, it had nothing to do with official rank, but materials were of a variety of materials, including jade and gold. The structure of the donggot was studied in three parts-head, neck and body. Major forms for the head include the mushroom, bean and ball. Bullet and half-cut bullet forms were also found. Forms for the neck include straight-neck and curved-neck. A neck with a belt around a double chin was also found. Forms for the body include the tetrahedron, octahedron and cylinder. The most popular form for silver and white bronze donggot heads was the mushroom, followed by bean and pile forms. Chigwan is also called chipogwan, chichoal, choalgyesogwan, noingwan and sangtugwan. In poetry it was called chichoal, and it used to be called taegogwan in the past as well. Chigwan was so small that it managed to hold a topknot. According to confucian custom in the Joseon period, by wearing chigwan, men didn't display their bare topknot even when they didn't dress up. When they went out, they wore another official hat over the chigwan.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.26 no.4
• /
• pp.485-502
• /
• 2018

In this research, we conducted an empirical study using the theory of sociologist Jean Baudrillard to examine the phenomenon of contemporary people in Korea acquiring tattoos. The researcher classified the consumption behavior of modern society, as described by Baudrillard in The Consumer Society, into three keyword phrases: consumption by personal taste, coded consumption, and recyclage of consumption. Using this as the premise of the study, 18 men and women in their 20s and 30s completed questionnaires and interviews, and the results supported labeling tattoo consumption as consumption by personal taste, tattoos as coded consumption, and recyclage of tattoo consumption, similar to the consumption pattern that Baudrillard sees. First, the younger generations have consumed tattoos according to their personal preferences. They express themselves by tattooing for self-complacency, self-marking, pursuing individuality, overcoming the appearance complex, and seeking pleasure. Second, they have consumed socially coded tattoos. They say that tattoos domestically act as negative codes and symbolize individuals. Although tattoos are a symbol of artists who are relatively free from social norms, they are still a symbol of social misfits created as such by negative perceptions. Third, the pattern of tattoo consumption is like that of contemporary consumption. Tattoos already have become part of popular culture in Korea, and there has been a changing trend in tattoo culture. This study has significance in that tattoos were regarded as a consumption behavior that deviated, from the perspective of deviance. That phenomenon of today's tattoo culture of today was confirmed through the empirical study.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.35 no.7
• /
• pp.801-815
• /
• 2011

This study examines the characteristics of marketing and customer that influence the selection of multichannel (preference/frequency of use) in the fashion retail. The subjects of this study are men and women live in Seoul/Gyeonggi province and Busan/Gyeongsangnam-do in their 20s-40s who have shopping experiences in fashion items of more than 2 shopping channels among offline stores, catalogs, and the internet. The survey period was from March to May 2010 and 411 forms were used in this survey. The data were analyzed by a reliability analysis (Cronbach's ${\alpha}$), a factor analysis, t-test and one-way ANOVA. The main results of this study are summarized as follows. First, marketing characteristics, which effect the selection of multichannel (preference/frequency of use), consist of sales promotion, service, price, merchandise, and distribution. Those have a significant influence (***p${\leq}$.001) on choosing multichannel of fashion retail. Price has a significant impact on the preference of multichannel and merchandise affect for frequency of use in multichannel shopping. Second, customer characteristics have a significant influence (***p${\leq}$.001) on the monthly average purchasing amount, shopping hours, shopping frequency, brand knowledge, and price sensitivity. Particularly, monthly average purchasing amount & shopping frequency have meaningful differences in the frequency of using multichannel; in addition, shopping hours were affected by preference & frequency of use. Price sensitivity has a greater influence on the frequency of using multichannel and brand knowledge has a greater effect on multichannel preference. Customer's information searching characteristics have main 3 factors through the use of marketing information, personal information and experience information. Application of experience information is the main factor in preference and frequency of using multichannel shopping. The customer demographic characteristics of age (*p${\leq}$.05, **p${\leq}$.01) and gender (*p${\leq}$.05) show a difference for selecting multichannel. There is no difference for marital status, average household income per month, and job.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.32 no.3
• /
• pp.395-407
• /
• 2008

As global interest in clothing spreads over the smart clothing which arouses high added-value in the apparel industry, this study is to develop a smart jacket with an electrically-vibrating device maintaining excellent appearance and comfort. The vibrating device has a massage function that could relieve muscle pain near shoulders and neck. The purposes of this research are to develop jacket pattern for men in their thirties considering body shapes and fashion trend, to develop a wearable device that is composed of motor and controller and integrate it into a jacket, and to assess the external appearance and functional satisfaction of the smart jacket through the wearing test. The results are as follows: 1. In order to develope an appropriate jacket pattern for men in their thirties, several patterns were assessed for their fitting comfort. The final pattern was completed after making alterations some parts, and showed high satisfaction as 3.6(on a five-point scale) in all categories. 2. A vibrating device was developed by connecting motor, controller, battery and switch. Developing this device, focus was maximizing the strength of motor and minimizing the heat generated from motor and controller. Snaps were placed between inner and outer cloth of jacket so that the vibrating device could be easily attachable and detachable. The motor was located around Trapezius where muscles often get stiff. A switch was designed to be used in selecting the modes of Strong, Weak, and Cross Tapping. 3. The wearing test was conducted to examine outer appearance, comfort for motion, and functionality of the smart jacket. The results of assessing outer appearance showed that the location for attaching the vibrating device was not noticeable but looked natural, and there is almost no change in outer appearance when the vibrating device operates. The result of assessing comfort of action revealed that wearer's satisfaction was high in all categories about activity, wearer's comfort, etc. The result also showed that wear's satisfaction for effects of vibrating massage, easiness in using the device, heat generation was not less than 3.5 in all categories except a category about noise.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.35 no.9
• /
• pp.1039-1048
• /
• 2011

This research develops a basic design structure for scuba diving wetsuits suitable for the shape of Korean men in their 30's as well as enhances the reduction rate for underwater activity. The clothing pressure and fitness tests were performed using four different types of body suits. The usable data of the tests were coded for further statistical analysis that includes one way-ANOVA test and S-N-K Multiple Range Test by using SPSSWIN 17.0. An analysis of the results shows: (1) The results of the clothing pressure test (using a dummy) indicated that the larger the reduction rate, the stronger the clothing pressure gets (with an exception on the knee area). It has great impact on clothing pressure with regards to the different body parts. The different reduction rates should be applied to body parts accordingly. (2) In the case of test subjects, the overall mean values of the clothing pressure were lower than the ones with the dummy (attributable to the cushion function of body skin and muscle as well as the high stretch of the fabric). (3) In evaluating the subjective fit test of four types of body suits, a statistically significant difference was found in the relation between pattern reduction rates and all parts of the body. It was revealed that the reduction rate of 'B' pattern (X: 4%, Y: 3%) was the most suitable pattern and the 'B' pattern scored highest in the motion functional fit test performed by a test subject.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
• /
• v.11 no.1
• /
• pp.85-106
• /
• 2011

This study analyzes excavated Danryeong of the same period to understand differences between female and male Danryeong, and to identify characteristics of female Danryeong, including their purpose, then-name and women's wearing of them. The subject female Danryeong were estimated to be worn in the late 15th century and the early 17th century, and newly-discovered female Danryeong, along with those examined in the Song Mi-kyeong's study, were studied. This study found that female Danryeong have distinctive characteristics from male's in many aspects such as ease of a garment, sleeve design, Hansam (a layered sleeve to cover hands), shape of Moos (side pleats), Goreum (a coat string), Dae (a belt). From this finding, the purpose of female Danryeong can be assumed: a ceremonial robe, which is different from that of mem's official robe. Female Danryeong began to disappear as Wonsam, a ceremonial topcoat, emerged. From the transitional Danryeong and excavated Wonsam, female Danryeong were estimated to be used as ceremonial robes in the mid Joseon period when Wonsam had yet to be created; and they were estimated to be called "Dansam" or "Wonsam."

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.17 no.1
• /
• pp.39-52
• /
• 2015

This study aims to analyze the characteristics of the male products for urinary incontinence by examining the types and characteristics of those registered in KIPO (Korean Industrial Property Office). Additionally, the types and characteristics, especially for the cloth products and the pads, of male panties for urinary incontinence on the market are analyzed. Men in their 60s with minor symptoms were selected as the subjects to evaluate the wearability. The results are as follows. 11 male products for urinary incontinence, registered in KIPO, are structurally different from those for women by having a separate pocket mainly for absorption. There are one disposable type and 7 cloth types, and the cloth panties can be classified as either united or separable type depending on the detachability of pads from the panties. The types of the panties vary according to the position, shape, and size of the attached pads on normal male panties (boxer, briefs, drawers). The fabrics for the urinary incontinence are usually piled in 3 to 5 layers by having the most absorptive layer on the top, the next with deodorizing characteristics, and the bottom with the waterproof fabric as basics with some additional layers of antibiotic or breathable fabrics. From the wearability test, it has been determined that the panties are not distinguishable in external appearance and the fitness is also not a problem since the size varies as the normal panties. It has been evaluated that the fitness of the panties is an important factor since the pad should be worn in any form; the pad sewed in the middle of the panties was evaluated to be more wearable than having a long pad. In case of separable panties, when the pattern and fabric is similar to the functional panties and the options such as the thickness of the pads or detachability are given to the users, it tends to be more satisfactory.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.40 no.6
• /
• pp.967-978
• /
• 2016

This study examines consumers' multi-channel choices in the search phase and purchasing phase stage according to price sensitivity and product characteristics in order to propose a multichannel strategy. For the research, one-way ANOVA, t-test, clustering analysis, and crosstabs are used for the descriptive analysis of 317 surveys on men and women conducted in 2014. The findings are as follows. First, consumers that both experience goods and search goods rely on surrounding advice as well as a search channel regardless of price sensitivity. Second, channel selection differs by price sensitivity when it comes to purchasing phase. Consumers with high price sensitivity tend to purchase from online channels; however, consumers with low price sensitivity tend to purchase from off line channels in cases of search goods. Meanwhile, cases of experience goods have no meaningful result. Third, consumers are divided into 3 groups by the tendency of channel selection. In case of experience goods, search channel choice is aligned with purchasing channel; however, search channel choice is not aligned with purchasing channel in search goods. This study provides clear information on fashion consumers' behavior on multi-channel choices compared to ones for search goods consumers on strategic strategies for fashion companies.