• 한국의류학회지
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• 제20권3호
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• pp.527-537
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• 1996

This study tries to understand the characteristics of a man's clothes from the late 17th century to the early 18th century, held by the Ewha Womans University Museum. The author adopted the Assy CAD, an apparel CAD system developed by Assysit Company of Germany, in measuring clothes which is intended to solve the problems raised in the previous measurement of clothes, as well as in the making of patterns. The author used tracing paper to make copies of the curved parts, put them into the computer by digitiger, and made the patterns for more accurate restoration. Furthermore, the author compared Lee Hwang's with the contents of the related literature and excavated apparel from other tombs. As a result, Chopri among Lee Hwang's clothes, retained the typical characteristics of the mid-Chosun men's fashion in its ratio of bodice to skirt, form of sleeves, and size of breast- ties for fastening which appeared in the 17th century. Daechangeui and Jungchimak also were distinctive for Changot and the width of sleeves since the 17th century and were in wide use not only as the daily clothes but also as the shroud. These changes were brought about from the two wars which emphasized prestige and beauty of the clothes rather than their functions. As a result, Changeuis were used more widely, while Chopri which was used as the underwear of officials' uniform, was in decline.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.43-53
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• 1996

This study was initiated to investigate (1) the current sizing system for mail-order clothing, (2) consumers' preference for sizing systems, and (3) consumers' satisfaction with garment size. The apparel items and the sizes available at various mail-order companies in Korea were also reviewed. This investigation of consumers' preferences for various size description systems includes a survey of 410 men and women who had purchased garments by mail-order. The data were analyzed by Statistical Analysis System/pc. The major results are as follows; 1. The sizing system of mail-order clothing was different by garment items. The number of apparel sizes available for mail-order purchasing was three or less. The most mail∼order garments were labeled by the numerical size codes of body girth nleasurements or letter code (S, M, L). 2. The size description system most prefered by female subjects(N : 360) was the numerical size code of a body measurement(55.4%). The combination of bust-hips-height measurements size codes were prefered by 13.3% . The pictogram was least premiered by the subjects. 3. The apparel items that subjects wanted to buy using mail-order were underwear, home -weat and night-wear. The heavy users of mail-order purchasing, however, also wanted to purchase expensive garments requiring precise fit. The subjects aged from 20's to 80's wanted to purchase childern's wear by mail. 4. The desire for diversity of garment item and size of mail-order apparel was relatively high. The subjets also wanted to purchase special size garments by mail-order, e. g., garment sizes for full or tall figure.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제41권2호
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• pp.254-265
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• 2017

This study examines the possibility of a neuro-scientific approach to fashion Visual Merchandising (VM), by researching the brain activation of customers about fashion stores in terms of VM. Study subjects were in 20's-30's residing in Busan and ten ordinary person or fashion industry related individuals, it measures the change of cerebral blood flow on positive/negative photo stimulus in terms of VM using a functional Near Infrared Spectroscopy (fNIRS) device, and then compared the brain activation to the difference of the fashion store VM. Photo stimuli utilized in the experiment were selected through a preliminary study in advance. The results of this study are as follows. First, the brain activation was found in all 16 channels of stimulus ranges of fashion store VM regardless of positive/negative stimulus. This means that the VM of fashion store causes changes to the cerebral blood flow of consumers, which implies that consumer behavior can be affected by store VM. It also shows that the brain is more active in negative VM stimulus than positive VM despite slight differences in the subjects. In terms of VM, this suggests that the negative factors of fashion stores have a greater effect on the brains of consumers compared to the positive factors. Second, the reaction of the brain channel is different according to the positive/negative VM stimulus of the fashion store by product group and confirms that positive/negative VM stimulus can be distinguished by brain-reaction for the three product groups except for the underwear group among four product groups (men's wear store, women's wear store, underwear store, and sportswear store). The results indicate that more objective scientific measure and decision-making are possible through neuro-science in the strategic execution of VM. This study verified the possibility for a neuro-scientific approach to fashion VM; therefore, there are expectations for the various activation of interdisciplinary research and subsequent development of VM that utilize neuroscience in fashion marketing.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제16권3호
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• pp.61-73
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• 2014

Urinary Incontinence is any leakage of urine against their will. It is not a life threatening illness but it causes negative effects both socially and psychologically. Based on many previous studies, 20-40% of adult female and 30% of men in their sixties have experienced symptoms of urinary incontinence. As the number of active aged people experiencing the symptoms increases, demand for specialized product is growing. The purpose of the study is to research the types and features of male disposable products for urinary incontinence on the market and to provide the basic data for improvement and development of better product. Products from 6 brands (Tena, Depend, Carnation, Keepers, Molimed, Abrimen) with high brand awareness both in online and offline were selected and analyzed. And product evaluation was carried out by male in their sixties with light symptom of urinary incontinence. The results are as follows. There are three types of male products for urinary incontinence: panties, diaper and pad. Among the 6 brands, the subject of analysis, only Depend from Yuhan Kimberly produces male panties while others make ones for unisex. There is no diaper product only for male, and Tena, Molimed, Abrimen have pad type products for male. Male panties from Depend emphasizes their design considering male's physical characteristics. Male pad is differentiated with female one by having different designs like triangular or pocket type which is more comforting to men. As a result of product evaluation, wearable panties similar to normal underwear were highly appreciated and satisfactory. Among various shapes of pads, 25cm long pad with wide width of front and narrow back was valued to be comfortable.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제9권3호
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• pp.45-51
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• 1985

The purpose of this study is to research into the thermal condition and the weight of clothes suitable for the officers engagged in light works in an air-conditioned room in summer. The Major findings are as follows: 1. Thermal conditions of the working environment are $24.5^{\circ}C$ (Dry bulb temp.), $68\%$ (Relative humidity) and 2.6m/sec (Air Velocity). 2. Total clothing weights are 416.6 g/$m^2$ (male) and 340.9 g/$m^2$ (female). Underwear weights are 96.8g/$m^2$ (male) and 85.1g/$m^2$ (female). The latter turned out to be statistically significant in Sexual difference. 3. Means of the thermal sensation are 3.0 (comfortable; male) 2.7 ('Slightly cool' -'Comfortable'; female) and the relationship between clothing weights and thermal sensation proves to be significantly correlated in the case of female. 4. $66.7\%$ of the women and $37.1\%$ of the men feel sensation of coldness at the body's specific area and $79.5\%$ of the women and $54.3\%$ of the men reveals air-conditioning disturbance. 5. As the thermal sensation is close to 'cool-cold', sensation of coldness or air conditioning disturbance are showed up more frequently which is reversely related with weight of under-wear. It is also proved that air conditioning disturbances are influenced by sexual difference in addition to sensation of coldness and thermal sensation. 6. According to the result of experiment, we can have the idea that at condition $X_1$, the drop of limbs' skin temp. is remarkable. At condition $X_2$ skin temp. for distal limbs and mean skin temp. are raised and the falling degree is similar. At condition $X_3$, mean skin temp. and distal skin temp. are remarkably raised, and the falling degree decreases and the beats of pulse rate increase and diastoric blood pressure is lowered.

• 복식
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• 제53권2호
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• pp.101-118
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• 2003

This paper describes pop stars' fashion style by the changes of pop music from the 1950's of the formative Period of a rock-n-roll to the 1990's. The author could examine the features of pop music as follows : the 1950's rock-n-roll, the 1960's rock and Psychedelic rock. the 1970's punk rock, the 1980's new wave and the 1990's reggae·hip-hop. Based on the examination, the author could do sampling of the fashion style, on which current pop music had influence, by rock style, new wave style, and reggae hip-hop style. The rock style makes appearance again as a new style when it is recently accepted to be a fashion. The 1960's hippie, which contains long-cherished desire of antiwar and peace after September 11, 2001 Attack on America and the Afghan War. reappeared as luxurious hippie, and the hybrid punk has been made because barriers between cultures have been collapsed to mix items and combine contradicting components at fashion field. The new wave style destroys sex difference of clothes. and men's clothes style has introduced women's dress style, so that androgynous style, which has handsome boy image with womanlike hair style and makeup, and the lingerie style without distinction of underwear and outer garment has made appearance through new cloth wearing ways and overexposure. The reggae and hip-hop style makes appearance to overcome social strata, groups, ages, regions and gender, etc and become one of the 21s1 century culture codes. In conclusion, pop music have played very important roles until expansion and popularity of new fashion style, and has been quickly expanded by mass media development. When the pop music fashion styles are introduced to high fashion, fashion styles have become more polished and high-qualify to expand them at main fashion world again.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제15권6호
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• pp.176-203
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• 2011

In today's intensifying global competition, Korean fashion industry is relying on only qualitative data for feasibility study of future projects and developmental plan. This study was conducted in order to support establishment of a scientific and rational management system that reflects market demand. First, fashion market size was limited to the total amount of expenditure for fashion clothing products directly purchased by Koreans for wear during 6 months in spring and summer and 6 months in autumn and winter. Fashion market forecasting model was developed using statistical forecasting method proposed by previous research. Specifically, time series model was selected, which is a verified statistical forecasting method that can predict future demand when data from the past is available. The time series for empirical analysis was fashion market sizes for 8 segmented markets at 22 time points, obtained twice each year by the author from 1998 to 2008. Targets of the demand forecasting model were 21 research models: total of 7 markets (excluding outerwear market which is sensitive to seasonal index), including 6 segmented markets (men's formal wear, women's formal wear, casual wear, sportswear, underwear, and children's wear) and the total market, and these markets were divided in time into the first half, the second half, and the whole year. To develop demand forecasting model, time series of the 21 research targets were used to develop univariate time series models using 9 types of exponential smoothing methods. The forecasting models predicted the demands in most fashion markets to grow, but demand for women's formal wear market was forecasted to decrease. Decrease in demand for women's formal wear market has been pronounced since 2002 when casualization of fashion market intensified, and this trend was analyzed to continue affecting the demand in the future.

• 복식
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• 제24권
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• pp.59-82
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• 1995

All kinds of art are the creatures of the daly and reflect the society and the life of the day in literary works. So, in which literary works, we can find the styles of those who lived in the specified days. And the styles of its character's costume are expressed with the day'mood and cultural backgrounds. In this study, we studied on the general meaning, which was shown in the Costume of early Ch'ing Dynasty that was forming the Costume of dress through dividing into the underwear and the outer garment in $\ulcorner$Dream of the read Chamber$\lrcorner$. During the Ch'ing Dynasty, according to the rule : Men followed it but women not" , they held on to the costume of them (both the Man and the Han) with a high pressure and a conciliatory policy. As a result, I have known that there is the Soojean clothe(수전의), which is the late Myung Dynasty's one and their is also Skirt (군), which held on the Costume of the Myung's. Hence in the Ch'ing , there are a lot of difference in the Costume , the economy and the politic because the ruler was not the han but the Ch'ing. Those characters are as follows. first, on the side of the style , it is occured in the coat and the over jacket of the round neckline. The style of the sleeves are also the tightly(고착). Second, on the side o f the material, the use of the furs are found. It seems that are influence of the north area. Third, it is involved not the traditional Costume of the Han, but the over jacket(which is waistlength), These characters had taken root into the Costume of the Ch'ing Dynasty. In case of the jacket, which are found in the novel most frequently , it was represented by the tight jacket (소오), the long jacket (대오), the short jacket(단오) and the Sam (삼). The skirt was used by women only. the Slacks were trousers only for men, so it was not foujnd in the women's wear. In the vest, the over jacket and coat, which are for putting on, its material, insiqnia and varied embroidery are very brillant and elaborate. The used materials are the silks , furs, wools and cottons. Among the dick silks are used most frequently . in case of the over jacket, the precious and varied furs are used for the collar, the sleeve or the decoration and the lining cloth. In the novel, mean followd the Costume of the Man and women followed the Costume of the Han. Especially, it is a special costume that there were women in male attire. Finally, the costume of the Ch'ing had built the unique one with holding on the advantage and the short point s of the northen race and the Han's. Also , I can find the brilliant , eleborate Customes of the aristocratic class in the novel.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제2권3호
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• pp.137-156
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• 1998

In this study, the researcher studied the historical background, and the traditional culture about dress and ornament of Yunnan Province of China, The results of the study are as follows. 1. Dress and personal ornaments of the Va peoples vary with the locality. Their traditional dress and adornment is characterized by those in the Ximeng area. Men usually wear black or dark blue collarless jackets and black and dark blue loose and short bagged trousers with folding waist. Women usually wear close-fitting sleeveless pullover blouses with V-shaped necks and straight skirts with patterns of red and black cross stripes. 2. Jingpo men have changed to wear shirts with button down the front and trousers. They also entwine white turbans with red bobbles on both ends, and carry diagonally long knives, firelocks and red woolen figured satchels on their shoulders. Women usually wear black velvet blouses with silver bowl-shaped ornaments and chains around collars and on the fronts. They also wear red straight skirts with overlapped slit on the right, waistbands and waist hoops made of rattan and bamboo. 3. The Naxi nationality has a long history and excellent traditional culture. In modern times, women like to wear red, blue or purple laced blouses, long double-layered pleated skirts, waistbands and embroidered shoes. They wear their hair in buns with either hats or kerchiefs over them. While working or going out, they put on their "seven-star" capes made of sheepskin and embroidered with two big circles and seven small ones, while is a symbol of their frog totem. 4. The dress and adorment of the Jinuo people is simple, elegant and has its own unique characteristics. Men usually wear white buttonless shirts with round necks and an opening on the front, knee-length bagged trousers and legging. They wear cloth turbans, earrings and also put small bamboo or silver pipes in the holes of their earlobes. Women wear short buttonless blouses with round necks and seven coloured stripes and thin tight-fitting or embroidered triangular underwear. 5. The dress and ardorment of the Benglong (De' ang) nationality has its own strong national colour. Most of the men wear jackets with buttons arranged diagonally on the front, loose, short trousers and black or white turbans. Some young men like to wear eardrops and silver necklaces. Women's dress and adornment differs according to various branches. For example, the women of the Bielie and Liang branches have their hair shaved and wear black turbans. They use large square silver tablets as buttons and wear blue or black blouses with buttons down the front. 6. Oai men usually wear trousers, white or blue cloth turbans and round-necked shirts with buttons down the front or arranged diagonally on the front. Women usually wear long straight skirt and blouses. But dress and adornment varies in regions. 7. The Bai nationality dress and adornment has unique national style. The dress fabrics are mainly cotton cloth, silk and velvet. Men usually wear red velvet vests over white shirts with buttons down the front or black velvet vests over light blue shirts. They also wear white of blue turbans and carry satchels with beautiful embroidered designs over their shoulders. Women usually wear red velvet vests over white blouses, or black vests over light-coloured blouses.

• 복식
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• 제5권
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• pp.41-63
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• 1981

The mural portraits of the ancient Dukheungri tombs are very important for the study of our traditional costume because the tomb contains a stone. with the in-scription of the date of its erection, 408 A.D. and the name, and official status of the buried. The costumes shown in the mural paintings will be the basis on which historical research can be made concerning costumes before and after 400 A. D. The costume in the mural paintings is classified into five different categories; You (jacket), Po (overcoat), Go (trousers), Sang (skirt), and Gwan (hat). Comparing these categories with those of other mural paintings lead us to the following conclusions. 1. The length of the You (jacket) reaches below the buttocks and the sleeves are narrow. The edges of the sleeves are decorated with stripes. The You (jacket) over-laps on the right, center, and left sides, and there are many Jikryong (V-collar) and Danryong (rounded collar) styles, but it has a similar tendency to others of the Pyongyang area which exhibit many foreign influences. In a departure from tradition. the belts on the men's You (jackets) have only 3 knots in the front, with the back having more knots than the front. The belts of the women's You (jacket) seem to have had a band or button for fastening. We must re-evaluate the assumption that the You (jacket) and Go (trousers) of the northern peoples had the common characters of a belted You (jacket) and Po (over-coat) and that the Gorum originated from the Goryo or Unified Silla dynasty. The outside of the sleeves are longer and more to the side than the inner garment (underwear) so that the sleeves of the inner garment frequently overlapped the outer dress. The above mentioned facts have lead to the discovery of the "Hansam," "Tosi" and "Geodoolgi." 2. The Po (overcoat) was used only by the upperclasses and differs from those found in other mural tombs. The Po (overcoat) of the noble on the tomb mural is centered with an overlapping Jikryong (V-collar) while the other Po (overcoats) of the upperclasses are characterized by an overlap on the left, a Danryong (rounded collar) with two types of sleeves (wide and narrow). Foreign influences and traditional influences coexist in Po (overcoat). Belts have frontal knots without exceptions. The facts that the belts on the You (jackets) are on the front and the belts on the Po (overcoats) are on the back must be reexamined. 3. Go (trousers) is usually narrow, being wider in the rear and narrower below the knees. They were used by hunters on the back of horses with similar Go (trousers) from the Noinwoowha tombs being typical of the northern peoples. 4. Sang (skirts) are pleated as commonly seen in the Goguryo murals. The size of the pleat is varied, each pleat being characteristically wider and having different colors. Same types of pleat are discovered in Central Asia and China. It is uncertain whether the pleat of Goguryo was originated in Central Asia and China or only interrelated with those of the areas. 5. There are three kinds of Gwan (hats); Nagwan, Chuck, and Heukgun. Nag-wan was worn by the dead lords and their close relations. Chuck has three cone shaped horns. Heukgun was worn by military bandmen and horsemen. There are two kinds of hair styles. The up-style was used by the upperclass people closely related to lords, and other people used the Pungimoung hair style. The hair styles of the men and women are characterized by the Pungimoung style. which is a Chinese influence, but still retain their originality. The costume has a similar tendency from those from Yaksuri mural tombs, Anak No. 2 and Anak No. 3. We need to reexamine the costumes from $4{\sim}5$ century murals according to the Dukheungri murals. The costumes of Goguryo share many common factors with those of Western Asia, Central Asia and Ancient China (Han). It seems due to the cultural exchanges among the Northern peoples, the Western and Central Asians, and the Ancient Chinese. It may have resulted from the structural identity or morphological identity of the peoples, or their common social and natural environments and life styles. It will be very valuable to study the costumes of Japan, China, and Korea to find out the common factors. It is only regretful that the study is not based on direct observations but reported information made by 77 persons, because Dukheungri is an off-limits area to us.