• Title/Summary/Keyword: Mean wave direction

Search Result 62, Processing Time 0.026 seconds

A Study of Statistical Properties of Waves in the Sea Area of Pohang (포항해역에서의 파랑의 통계적 특성에 대한 연구)

  • 안용호;김도영
    • Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
    • /
    • 2001.05a
    • /
    • pp.216-221
    • /
    • 2001
  • In this paper, statistical properties of waves in the sea area of Pohang, Korea are examined absed on 1998-1999's wave data from directional wave buoy which is located Pohang(Janggigog). Wave data aquisition rate, monthly maximium, minimum and mean wave heights, frequency of wave direction are summarized. Wave height and period scatter diagrams and n-year return period wave heights are estimated. Wave periods of maximum wave heights are also estimated.

  • PDF

Sensitivity Analysis in the Prediction of Coastal Erosion due to Storm Events: case study-Ilsan beach (태풍 기인 연안침식 예측의 불확실성 분석: 사례연구-일산해변)

  • Son, Donghwi;Yoo, Jeseon;Shin, Hyunhwa
    • Journal of Coastal Disaster Prevention
    • /
    • v.6 no.3
    • /
    • pp.111-120
    • /
    • 2019
  • In coastal morphological modelling, there are a number of input factors: wave height, water depth, sand particle size, bed friction coefficients, coastal structures and so forth. Measurements or estimates of these input data may include uncertainties due to errors by the measurement or hind-casting methods. Therefore, it is necessary to consider the uncertainty of each input data and the range of the uncertainty during the evaluation of numerical results. In this study, three uncertainty factors are considered with regard to the prediction of coastal erosion in Ilsan beach located in Ilsan-dong, Ulsan metropolitan city. Those are wave diffraction effect of XBeach model, wave input scenario and the specification of the coastal structure. For this purpose, the values of mean wave direction, significant wave height and the height of the submerged breakwater were adjusted respectively and the followed numerical results of morphological changes are analyzed. There were erosion dominant patterns as the wave direction is perpendicular to Ilsan beach, the higher significant wave height, and the lower height of the submerged breakwater. Furthermore, the rate of uncertainty impacts among mean wave direction, significant wave height and the height of the submerged breakwater are compared. In the study area, the uncertainty influence by the wave input scenario was the largest, followed by the height of the submerged breakwater and the mean wave direction.

Effects of interfacial shear stress on laminar-wavy film flow (층류-파동 액막 유동에 대한 계면 전단응력의 영향)

  • Kim, Byeong-Ju;Jeong, Eun-Su;Kim, Jeong-Heon
    • Transactions of the Korean Society of Mechanical Engineers B
    • /
    • v.22 no.7
    • /
    • pp.992-1000
    • /
    • 1998
  • In the present study the behavior of laminar-wavy film flowing down a vertical plate was studied analytically. The effects of film Reynolds number and interfacial shear stress on the mean film thickness, wave amplitude, wave length, and wave celerity were analysed. The anayltical results on the periodic-wave falling film showed good agreements with experimental data for Re < 100. As the film Reynolds number increased, mean film thickness, wave amplitude, and wave celerity increased, but wave length decreased. Depending on the direction of interfacial shear stress, the shape of wavy interface was disturbed significantly, especially for the intermediate-wave. As the interfacial shear stress increased, for the periodic-wave film, wave amplitude and wave celerity increased, but mean film thickness and wave length decreased.

Long-Term Analysis of Tropical Cyclones in the Southwest Pacific and Influences on Tuvalu from 2000 to 2021

  • Sree Juwel Kumar Chowdhury;Chan-Su Yang
    • Korean Journal of Remote Sensing
    • /
    • v.39 no.4
    • /
    • pp.441-458
    • /
    • 2023
  • Tropical cyclones frequently occur in the Southwest Pacific Ocean and are considered one of the driving forces for coastal alterations. Therefore, this study investigates the frequency and intensity of tropical cyclonesfrom 2000 to 2021 and their influence on the surface winds and wave conditions around the atoll nation Tuvalu. Cyclone best-track and ERA5 single-level reanalysis data are utilized to analyze the condition of the surface winds, significant wave heights, mean wave direction, and mean wave period. Additionally, the scatterometer-derived wind information was employed to compare wind conditions with the ERA5 data. On average, nine cyclones per year originated here, and the frequency increased to 11 cyclones during the last three years while the intensity decreased by 25 m/s (maximum sustained wind speed). Besides, a total of 14 cyclones were observed around Tuvalu during the period from 2015 to 2021, which showed an increase of 3 cyclones compared to the preceding period of 2001 to 2007. During cyclones, the significant wave height reached the highest 4.8 m near Tuvalu, and the waves propagated in the east-southeast direction during most of the cyclone events (52%). In addition, prolonged swells with a mean wave period of 7 to 11 seconds were generated in the vicinity of Tuvalu, for which coastal alteration can occur. After this preliminary analysis, it was found that the waves generated by cyclones have a crucial impact in altering the coastal area of Tuvalu. In the future, remotely sensed high-resolution satellite data with this wave information will be used to find out the degree of alterations that happened in the coastal area of Tuvalu before and after the cyclone events.

Wave Properties in the Sea Area of Mara-do in ′98 and ′99 (′98-′99 마라도해역에서의 파랑의 특성)

  • 안용호;정진영;류황진;김도영
    • Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
    • /
    • 2001.10a
    • /
    • pp.108-116
    • /
    • 2001
  • In this paper, statistical properties of waves in the sea area of Mara-do, Korea are examined based on 1998-1999's wave data from a directional wave buoy which is located in Mara-do. Wave data aquisition rate, monthly maximium, minimum and mean wave heights, frequency of wave direction are summarized. Wave height and period scatter diagrams and n-year return period wave heights are estimated. Wave periods of maximum wave heights are also estimated.

  • PDF

On statistical Properties of the Extreme Waves (극한파의 통계적 특성에 대한 연구)

  • Ryu, Hwang-Jin;Kim, Do-Yong
    • Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
    • /
    • 2003.10a
    • /
    • pp.309-316
    • /
    • 2003
  • In this paper, The statistical properties of ocean waves in the sea area of Hong-do, Korea are examined based on 1998-2002's wave data from a directional wave buoy. Wave data aquisition rate, mean wave heights, frequency of wave direction are summarized. Wave height and period scatter diagrams and n-years return period wave heights are estimated. Wave periods of maximum wave heights are also estimated. Large amplitude wave characteristics during the typhoon Prapiroon in 2000, Rusa in 2002 are also examined.

  • PDF

Analysis of Long-Term Wave Distribution at Jeju Sea Based on SWAN Model Simulation (SWAN모델을 이용한 제주해역 장기 파랑분포 특성 연구)

  • Ryu Hwangjin;Hong Keyyong;Shin Seung-Ho;Song Museok;Kim Do Young
    • Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
    • /
    • v.7 no.3
    • /
    • pp.137-145
    • /
    • 2004
  • Long-term wave distribution at Jeju sea is investigated by a numerical simulation based on the thirdgeneration wave model SWAN (Simulating WAves Nearshore). The Jeju sea which retains relatively high wave energy density among Korean coastal regions is considered to be a suitable site for wave power generation and the efficiency of wave power generation is closely related to local wave characteristics. The monthly mean of a large-scale long-term wave data from 1979 to 2002, which is provided by Korea Ocean Research & Development Institute. is used as the boundary condition of SWAN model simulation with 1km grid. An analysis of wave distribution concentrates on the seasonal variation and spatial distribution of significant wave heights, mean wave directions and mean wave periods. Significant wave heights are higher in winter and summer and the west sea of Jeju appears relatively higher than east's. The highest significant wave height occurs at the northeast sea in winter and the second highest significant wave height appears at the southeast sea in summer, while the significant wave heights in spring and autumn are relatively low but homogeneous. The distribution of wave directions reveals that except the rear region influenced by wave refraction, the northwest wave direction is dominant in summer and the southeast in winter. Wave periods are longer in summer and winter and the west sea of Jeju appears relatively longer than east's. The longest wave period occurs at the west sea in winter, and in summer it appears relatively homogeneous with a little longer period at the south sea.

  • PDF

Spatial and Temporal Variability of Significant Wave Height and Wave Direction in the Yellow Sea and East China Sea (황해와 동중국해에서의 유의파고와 파향의 시공간 변동성)

  • Hye-Jin Woo;Kyung-Ae Park;Kwang-Young Jeong;Do-Seong Byun;Hyun-Ju Oh
    • Journal of the Korean earth science society
    • /
    • v.44 no.1
    • /
    • pp.1-12
    • /
    • 2023
  • Oceanic wind waves have been recognized as one of the important indicators of global warming and climate change. It is necessary to study the spatial and temporal variability of significant wave height (SWH) and wave direction in the Yellow Sea and a part of the East China Sea, which is directly affected by the East Asian monsoon and climate change. In this study, the spatial and temporal variability including seasonal and interannual variability of SWH and wave direction in the Yellow Sea and East China Sea were analyzed using European Center for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF) Reanalysis 5 (ERA5) data. Prior to analyzing the variability of SWH and wave direction using the model reanalysis, the accuracy was verified through comparison with SWH and wave direction measurements from Ieodo Ocean Science Station (I-ORS). The mean SWH ranged from 0.3 to 1.6 m, and was higher in the south than in the north and higher in the center of the Yellow Sea than in the coast. The standard deviation of the SWH also showed a pattern similar to the mean. In the Yellow Sea, SWH and wave direction showed clear seasonal variability. SWH was generally highest in winter and lowest in late spring or early summer. Due to the influence of the monsoon, the wave direction propagated mainly to the south in winter and to the north in summer. The seasonal variability of SWH showed predominant interannual variability with strong variability of annual amplitudes due to the influence of typhoons in summer.

Influence of second order wave excitation loads on coupled response of an offshore floating wind turbine

  • Chuang, Zhenju;Liu, Shewen;Lu, Yu
    • International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
    • /
    • v.12 no.1
    • /
    • pp.367-375
    • /
    • 2020
  • This paper presents an integrated analysis about dynamic performance of a Floating Offshore Wind Turbine (FOWT) OC4 DeepCwind with semi-submersible platform under real sea environment. The emphasis of this paper is to investigate how the wave mean drift force and slow-drift wave excitation load (Quadratic transfer function, namely QTF) influence the platform motions, mooring line tension and tower base bending moments. Second order potential theory is being used for computing linear and nonlinear wave effects, including first order wave force, mean drift force and slow-drift excitation loads. Morison model is utilized to account the viscous effect from fluid. This approach considers floating wind turbine as an integrated coupled system. Two time-domain solvers, SIMA (SIMO/RIFLEX/AERODYN) and FAST are being chosen to analyze the global response of the integrated coupled system under small, moderate and severe sea condition. Results show that second order mean drift force and slow-drift force will drift the floater away along wave propagation direction. At the same time, slow-drift force has larger effect than mean drift force. Also tension of the mooring line at fairlead and tower base loads are increased accordingly in all sea conditions under investigation.

On Statistical Properties of the Extreme Waves in Hong-do Sea Area During Typhoons (홍도 해역에서 태풍 중 극한파의 통계적 특성에 대한 연구)

  • Ryu Hwanajin;Kim Do Young
    • Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
    • /
    • v.7 no.1
    • /
    • pp.47-55
    • /
    • 2004
  • In this paper, The statistical properties of ocean waves in the sea area of Hong-do, Korea are examined based on 1998-2002's wave data from a directional wave buoy. Wave data aquisition rate, mean wave heights, frequency of wave direction are summarized. Wave height and period scatter diagrams and n-year return period wave heights are estimated. Wave periods of maximum wave heights are also estimated. Large amplitude wave characteristics during the typhoon Prapiroon in 2000, Rusa in 2002 are also examined.

  • PDF