• 한국해양공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국해양공학회 2001년도 춘계학술대회 논문집
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• pp.216-221
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• 2001

In this paper, statistical properties of waves in the sea area of Pohang, Korea are examined absed on 1998-1999's wave data from directional wave buoy which is located Pohang(Janggigog). Wave data aquisition rate, monthly maximium, minimum and mean wave heights, frequency of wave direction are summarized. Wave height and period scatter diagrams and n-year return period wave heights are estimated. Wave periods of maximum wave heights are also estimated.

• 한국연안방재학회지
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• 제6권3호
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• pp.111-120
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• 2019

In coastal morphological modelling, there are a number of input factors: wave height, water depth, sand particle size, bed friction coefficients, coastal structures and so forth. Measurements or estimates of these input data may include uncertainties due to errors by the measurement or hind-casting methods. Therefore, it is necessary to consider the uncertainty of each input data and the range of the uncertainty during the evaluation of numerical results. In this study, three uncertainty factors are considered with regard to the prediction of coastal erosion in Ilsan beach located in Ilsan-dong, Ulsan metropolitan city. Those are wave diffraction effect of XBeach model, wave input scenario and the specification of the coastal structure. For this purpose, the values of mean wave direction, significant wave height and the height of the submerged breakwater were adjusted respectively and the followed numerical results of morphological changes are analyzed. There were erosion dominant patterns as the wave direction is perpendicular to Ilsan beach, the higher significant wave height, and the lower height of the submerged breakwater. Furthermore, the rate of uncertainty impacts among mean wave direction, significant wave height and the height of the submerged breakwater are compared. In the study area, the uncertainty influence by the wave input scenario was the largest, followed by the height of the submerged breakwater and the mean wave direction.

• 대한기계학회논문집B
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• 제22권7호
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• pp.992-1000
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• 1998

In the present study the behavior of laminar-wavy film flowing down a vertical plate was studied analytically. The effects of film Reynolds number and interfacial shear stress on the mean film thickness, wave amplitude, wave length, and wave celerity were analysed. The anayltical results on the periodic-wave falling film showed good agreements with experimental data for Re < 100. As the film Reynolds number increased, mean film thickness, wave amplitude, and wave celerity increased, but wave length decreased. Depending on the direction of interfacial shear stress, the shape of wavy interface was disturbed significantly, especially for the intermediate-wave. As the interfacial shear stress increased, for the periodic-wave film, wave amplitude and wave celerity increased, but mean film thickness and wave length decreased.

• 대한원격탐사학회지
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• 제39권4호
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• pp.441-458
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• 2023

Tropical cyclones frequently occur in the Southwest Pacific Ocean and are considered one of the driving forces for coastal alterations. Therefore, this study investigates the frequency and intensity of tropical cyclonesfrom 2000 to 2021 and their influence on the surface winds and wave conditions around the atoll nation Tuvalu. Cyclone best-track and ERA5 single-level reanalysis data are utilized to analyze the condition of the surface winds, significant wave heights, mean wave direction, and mean wave period. Additionally, the scatterometer-derived wind information was employed to compare wind conditions with the ERA5 data. On average, nine cyclones per year originated here, and the frequency increased to 11 cyclones during the last three years while the intensity decreased by 25 m/s (maximum sustained wind speed). Besides, a total of 14 cyclones were observed around Tuvalu during the period from 2015 to 2021, which showed an increase of 3 cyclones compared to the preceding period of 2001 to 2007. During cyclones, the significant wave height reached the highest 4.8 m near Tuvalu, and the waves propagated in the east-southeast direction during most of the cyclone events (52%). In addition, prolonged swells with a mean wave period of 7 to 11 seconds were generated in the vicinity of Tuvalu, for which coastal alteration can occur. After this preliminary analysis, it was found that the waves generated by cyclones have a crucial impact in altering the coastal area of Tuvalu. In the future, remotely sensed high-resolution satellite data with this wave information will be used to find out the degree of alterations that happened in the coastal area of Tuvalu before and after the cyclone events.

• 한국해양공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국해양공학회 2001년도 추계학술대회 논문집
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• pp.108-116
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• 2001

In this paper, statistical properties of waves in the sea area of Mara-do, Korea are examined based on 1998-1999's wave data from a directional wave buoy which is located in Mara-do. Wave data aquisition rate, monthly maximium, minimum and mean wave heights, frequency of wave direction are summarized. Wave height and period scatter diagrams and n-year return period wave heights are estimated. Wave periods of maximum wave heights are also estimated.

• 한국해양공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국해양공학회 2003년도 추계학술대회 논문집
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• pp.309-316
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• 2003

In this paper, The statistical properties of ocean waves in the sea area of Hong-do, Korea are examined based on 1998-2002's wave data from a directional wave buoy. Wave data aquisition rate, mean wave heights, frequency of wave direction are summarized. Wave height and period scatter diagrams and n-years return period wave heights are estimated. Wave periods of maximum wave heights are also estimated. Large amplitude wave characteristics during the typhoon Prapiroon in 2000, Rusa in 2002 are also examined.

• 한국해양환경ㆍ에너지학회지
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• 제7권3호
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• pp.137-145
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• 2004

제주해역의 상기 파랑분포 특성을 제3세대 파랑모델인 SWAN모델에 의한 시뮬레이션을 통해 고찰하였다. 제주해역은 한국 연안에서 파랑에너지 밀토가 상대적으로 큰 해역으로 파력발전에 적합한 후보지이며, 파력발전 효율은 해역의 파랑특성 인자들에 밀접히 연관되어 있다. 파랑분포는 한국해양연구원의 광역 장기 파랑추산 자료의 월평균 파랑특성을 경계조건으로 1 km 격자의 SWAN모델 시뮬레이션을 통해 획득하였으며, 파랑분포 해석은 유의파고, 평균 파향, 평균 과주기의 계절적ㆍ공간적 변화특성 고찰을 주목적으로 하였다. 유의파고는 겨울과 여름이 우세하며, 지역적으로는 제주도의 서쪽이 동쪽에 비해 유의파고가 높다. 유의파고의 최고치는 겨울에 북서쪽 해역에서 발생하며, 여름철의 남동쪽 해역이 다음으로 우세하고, 봄가을은 전체적으로 파고가 낮으나 분포가 비교적 균일하다. 파향의 분포는 회절의 영향을 받는 배후지역을 제외하면, 여름에는 북서 방향이 지배적이고, 겨울에는 남동 방향이 지배적이다. 파주기는 여름과 겨울철에 길고, 동쪽에 비해 서쪽 해역에서 길게 나타난다. 파주기의 최대치는 겨울에 서쪽 해역에서 발생하고, 여름에는 남쪽 해역의 파주기가 다소 우세하나 비교적 균일한 분포를 갖는다.

• 한국지구과학회지
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• 제44권1호
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• pp.1-12
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• 2023

해양의 파랑은 지구온난화 및 기후변화의 중요한 지표 중 하나로 인식되고 있다. 기후변화와 동아시아 몬순의 영향을 직접적으로 받는 황해 및 동중국해역에서의 유의파고 및 파향의 시공간 변동성 연구가 필요하다. 본 연구에서는 유럽중기예보센터(European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts; ECMWF)에서 제공하고 있는 5세대 모델 재분석장 (ECMWF Reanalysis 5, ERA5) 자료를 활용하여 황해 및 동중국해역에서의 유의파고와 파향의 공간분포와 계절 및 경년변동을 포함하는 시공간 변동성을 분석하였다. 모델 재분석자료를 활용한 유의파고와 파향의 변동성 분석에 앞서 이어도 해양과학기지 관측 자료와의 비교를 통하여 정확도를 검증하였다. 평균 유의파고는 0.3-1.6 m의 범위를 보였으며 북쪽에 비해 남쪽이 높고 연안에 비해 황해 중심부에서 높은 공간분포 특성을 보였다. 유의파고의 표준편차 또한 평균과 유사한 양상을 나타내었다. 황해에서 유의파고와 파향은 뚜렷한 계절변동성을 보였다. 유의파고의 경우 전반적으로 겨울철에 가장 높았으며 늦봄 또는 초여름에 가장 낮았다. 파향은 계절풍의 영향으로 겨울철에는 주로 남쪽으로 전파되었으며 여름철에는 북쪽으로 전파되는 특성이 나타났다. 유의파고의 계절변동은 여름철 태풍 등의 영향으로 해마다 연 진폭의 큰 변화를 가진 강한 경년변동성을 보였다.

• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.367-375
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• 2020

This paper presents an integrated analysis about dynamic performance of a Floating Offshore Wind Turbine (FOWT) OC4 DeepCwind with semi-submersible platform under real sea environment. The emphasis of this paper is to investigate how the wave mean drift force and slow-drift wave excitation load (Quadratic transfer function, namely QTF) influence the platform motions, mooring line tension and tower base bending moments. Second order potential theory is being used for computing linear and nonlinear wave effects, including first order wave force, mean drift force and slow-drift excitation loads. Morison model is utilized to account the viscous effect from fluid. This approach considers floating wind turbine as an integrated coupled system. Two time-domain solvers, SIMA (SIMO/RIFLEX/AERODYN) and FAST are being chosen to analyze the global response of the integrated coupled system under small, moderate and severe sea condition. Results show that second order mean drift force and slow-drift force will drift the floater away along wave propagation direction. At the same time, slow-drift force has larger effect than mean drift force. Also tension of the mooring line at fairlead and tower base loads are increased accordingly in all sea conditions under investigation.

• 한국해양환경ㆍ에너지학회지
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.47-55
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• 2004

본 논문은 1998년부터 2002년까지 대한민국 홍도 해역에 설치된 파향파고계에서 계측된 파랑자료를 이용하여 홍도 해역 파랑의 통계적 특성을 살펴보았다. 파랑관측율과 평균파고, 평균주기, 파향을 하였다. 그리고 파고-주기결합분포표를 작성하였고, n년 반복주기 파고와 최대 파고의 주기를 추정하였다. 2000년과 2002년에 발생한 태풍 "프라피룬"과 "루사"에 의한 파랑의 특성을 파악하였다.