• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.5
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• pp.265-277
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• 2019

Using the measured data of waves and shore-line, we reviewed the grand circulation process and seasonal variation of beach cusp at the Mang-Bang beach from the perspective of trapped mode Edge waves known as the driving mechanism of beach cusp. In order to track the temporal and spatial variation trends of beach cusp, we quantify the beach cusp in terms of its wave length and amplitude detected by threshold crossing method. In doing so, we also utilize the spectral analysis method and its associated spectral mean sand wave number. From repeated period of convergence and ensuing splitting of sand waves detected from the yearly time series of spectral mean sand wave number of beach cusp, it is shown that the grand circulation process of beach cusp at Mang-Bang beach are occurring twice from 2017. 4. 26 to 2018. 4. 20. For the case of beach area, it increased by $14,142m^2$ during this period, and the shore-line advanced by 18 m at the northen and southern parts of the Mang-Bang beach whereas the shore-line advanced by 2.4 m at the central parts of Mang-Bang beach. It is also worthy of note that the beach area rapidly increased by $30,345m^2$ from 2017.11.26. to 2017.12.22. which can be attributed to the nature of coming waves. During this period, mild swells of long period were prevailing, and their angle of attack were next to zero. These characteristics of waves imply that the main transport mode of sediment would be the cross-shore. Considering the facts that self-healing capacity of natural beaches is realized via the cross-shore sediment once temporarily eroded. it can be easily deduced that the sediment carried by the boundary layer streaming toward the shore under mild swells which normally incident toward the Mang-Bang beach makes the beach area rapidly increase from 2017.11.26. to 2017.12.22.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.33 no.6
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• pp.526-534
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• 2019

The average coastline and the erosion control line introduced as the management coastline, and the average shoreline (MSL) was established from the observed coastline. Also, the median grain size and the wave height of 30-years return period were applied. The erosion control line (ECL) was established through the model, HaeSaBeeN. These two lines set the coastline for evaluation. Based on the observed monitoring data along the coastline, the 1-day variation according to the normal distribution was used to estimate the regional variation, and the width of the erosion was calculated by applying the median grain size (D₅₀) and the wave height of 30-years return period through the high-wave coastal erosion width model, i.e., HaeSaBeeN.

• The Sea:JOURNAL OF THE KOREAN SOCIETY OF OCEANOGRAPHY
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.137-152
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• 2004

The climatological characteristics of coastal zone over the southwestern coast of Korea peninsula were investigated using the data observed by AWS (automatic weather system) and 4 buoy points. Coastal zone is climatologically defined as the region bounded by the distinct contrast of temperature gradient and wind speed across coastline. In the southwest of peninsula four cross-lines consisted of AWS aligned with each buoy were selected as Geojedo buoy line, Geomundo buoy line, Chilbaldo buoy line and Dukjukdo buoy line. Analysis on the diurnal cycle and intra-month variation, monthly mean and maximum value, the temperature gradient with distance between buoy and each station and the accumulative frequency of wind speed were applied to find out the characteristics and the range of coast zone. The maximum ranges of coastal zone vary from offshore to Sanglim (about 34 km distance from coastline) for Geojedo buoy line, to Sunchun (about 52 km) for Geo-mundo buoy line, to Jaeundo (about 27 km) for chilbaldo buoy line and to Yongin (about 65 km) for Dukjukdo buoy line. The modification of coastal zone according to synoptic flow was investigated for the onshore, off-shore and calm cases. The ranges of coastal zone are significantly changed with the distance between 65∼90 km for the case of onshore. In addition, we tried to find out the variation of the wind and temperature and the wind ratio of wind speed at ocean to land stations along Geojedo buoy line during 12∼13 Sep. 2003 affected by typhoon (MAEMI).

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.1
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• pp.28-39
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• 2019

In the design process of counter measures against the beach erosion, information like the main sediment transport mode and yearly net amount of longshore and cross shore transport is of great engineering value. In this rationale, we numerically analyzed the yearly sediment budget of the Mang-Bang beach which is suffering from erosion problem. For the case of cross sediment transport, Bailard's model (1981) having its roots on the Bagnold's energy model (1963) is utilized. In doing so, longshore sediment transport rate is estimated based on the assumption that longshore transport rate is determined by the available wave energy influx toward the beach. Velocity moments required for the application of Bailard's model (1981) is deduced from numerical simulation of the nonlinear shoaling process over the Mang-Bang beach of the 71 wave conditions carefully chosen from the wave records. As a wave driver, we used the consistent frequency Boussinesq Eq. by Frelich and Guza (1984). Numerical results show that contrary to the Bailard's study (1981), Irribaren NO. has non negligible influence on the velocity moments. We also proceeds to numerically simulate the yearly sediment budget of Mang-Bang beach. Numerical results show that for ${\beta}=41.6^{\circ}$, the mean orientation of Mang-Bang beach, north-westwardly moving longshore sediment is prevailing over the south-eastwardly moving sediment, the yearly amount of which is simulated to reach its maxima at $125,000m^3/m$. And the null pint where north-westwardly moving longshore sediment is balanced by the south-eastwardly moving longshore sediment is located at ${\beta}=47^{\circ}$. For the case of cross shore sediment, the sediment is gradually moving toward the shore from the April to mid October, whereas these trends are reversed by sporadically occurring energetic wind waves at the end of October and March. We also complete the littoral drift rose of the Mang-Bang beach, which shows that even though the shore line is temporarily retreated, and as a result, the orientation of Mang-Bang beach is larger than the orientation of null pont, south-eastwardly moving longshore sediment is prevailing. In a case that the orientation of Mang-Bang beach is smaller than the orientation of null pont, north-westwardly moving longshore sediment is prevailing. And these trend imply that the Mang-Bang beach is stable one, which has the self restoring capability once exposed to erosion.

• Magazine of the Korean Society of Agricultural Engineers
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.4089-4095
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• 1976

The safety of shore structure including the sea dipe is largely affected by typhoon. Accordingly it is desirable to analize the typhoon and determine the wind direction and velocity for use in planning and design of the structure. This method was adopted for the design of the Yong San Gang Estuary Dam. A comparative study of the results of typhoon analysis with the meteorological data obtained through actual observation is summarized as follows; (1) 62% of the typhoons occur during May to June in a year, and 62% of the typhoons which have an influence on the Korean peninsula, especially the proposed estuary dam fsite, proceed eastward through the zone in lat. 36$^{\circ}$-37$^{\circ}$N. Such typhoons occur two to three times a year on the average. (2) Data on typhoon "SARL" were used as a model case in designing the estuary dam, where it was proved that a southwesterly wind had a maximum velocity of 30m/sec in case r=150km, ${\alpha}$=120$^{\circ}$. Within the range of 22$^{\circ}$30'on the right and left side of the fetch line of the estuary dam, the wind direction varied SSW\longrightarrowSW\longrightarrowWSW, and the wind velocity varied 29m/sec\longrightarrow30m/sec\longrightarrow125m/sec. Such phenomemum lasted for five hours. (3) An analysis of data obtained during 44 years at Mok Po Meteorological Station shows that a wind with a velocity of some 25m/sec occurred twelve times in the S-direction and two times in the SW-direction, while that with a velocity of 30m/sec occurred three times in the S-direction, three times in the SSW-direction and one time in the SW-direction. The wind which had an influence on the estuary dam had a direction of SSW\longrightarrowSW\longrightarrowWSW and a velocity of min. 30m/sec. Actually, a wind with a max. velocity of 31.3m/sec occurred in the SSW-direction on March 15 and 16, 1956 where the mean velocity during two hours was 28m/sec and that during four hours was 24.6m/sec. (4) The data obtained through actual observation show that when the velocity is low, the wind with a fixed direction lasts long, and when the velocity is high, it is short-lived. It is difficult to determine the velocity of a wind which blows in a fixed direction for consecutive two or four hours. Therefore, the values obtained through typhoon analysis are larger that those obtained through actual observation, and hence, it is resonable to use the analyzed valuse for design of the estuary dam and shore structures. (5) The greatest effect was had on the estuary dam when typhoon was proceeding at a velocity of 29.71m/sec in the direction of ${\alpha}$=120$^{\circ}$(SW) at a point of R=150km from the center of the typhoon.

• Journal of Fisheries and Marine Sciences Education
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.236-243
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• 2006

A series of surveys are performed to evaluate the abundance, composition and distribution of marine debris on the sea bed around the Busan port. In order to set up a master plan for the marine environmental pollution the relevant maritime authority must understand how many and w㏊t kinds of marine litters are distributed on the sea bed. At first we planed to survey areas divided regularly according to the coast line but there were many sea going vessels and fishing boats. So we selected and surveyed the around area where there were no sea going vessels or fishing boats.The obtained results are as follows: 1. The mean values of litters in number and weight are 5.8 pieces/㏊. and 3.5㎏/㏊. respectively. 2. The highest density in terms of number are vinyl and plastic item, and in weight are fishing gear and ship articles. 3. The nearer to the shore we surveyed the more we collected in terms of the density of marine litters in number and in weight per hectare. 4. Eel pot, oiled waste, rope, others, other pot and net of fishing gear litters in number were 59.9, 22.7, 7.9, 4.5, 3.1 and 1.9% respectively. 5. There is no relationship between the amount of fish caught and the amount of marine debris.

• The Sea:JOURNAL OF THE KOREAN SOCIETY OF OCEANOGRAPHY
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.83-92
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• 2004

A continuous monitoring of textural characteristics of surface sediments, sedimentation rates and beach profile was carried out to investigate the seasonal variations of sedimentary processes in the Imjado beach, southwestern coast of Korea for two years. The beach profiles consist of steep beach face and relatively flat middle and low tide beaches. The slope of the beach face increases in summer and decreases in winter, in good accordance with the standard beach cycle. Ridge and runnel systems are well developed in the middle and low tide beaches during the summer, but these structures are replaced by mega-ripples during the winter. The sediments are fining southward as well as landward. The mean grain-size tends to be increasingly coarser during seasons of autumn and winter on the north beach and during seasons of winter and spring on the south one. In addition, the sediments are eroded on the north beach and accumulated on the south one as a whole. These are probably due to southward transportation of the sediments as long-shore current (NE-SW) runs around the coastal line of the beach. However, the seasonal variations in accumulation rates are very complex and irregular. It is considered that the Imjado beach represents in non-equilibrium state, as a result of coastal and submarine topographic changes by artificial agents and sea-level uprising associated with global warming.

• Journal of the Korean earth science society
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• v.41 no.1
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• pp.19-30
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• 2020

To understand the impact of typhoons on Gamji gravel beach Taejongdae in Busan, we carried out beach profiling using a VRS-GPS system and a Drone photogrammetry for the typhoons 'Kong-rey' invaded in October 2018 and 'Danas' in July 2019. In addition, grain sizes are analyzed to investigate the overall distribution pattern of gravels on the beach, and the beach topography is surveyed periodically to confirm the recovery rate of the beach. Grain-size analysis reveals that mean gravel sizes, in general, become finer from -6.2Φ to -5.4Φ towards the east in the seashore line direction. Variation in mean sizes is obviously observed in the cross-shore direction. Gravels in the swash zone are relatively fine about -4.5Φ in size and equant in shape, whereas the coarse and oblate gravels ranged from -5Φ to -6Φ are found in the berm. Gamji gravel beach particularly has two lines of berms: a lower berm situated facing beach and an upper berm about 10 m landward. After the typhoon Kong-rey passed by, about 1.4 m of severe erosion in upper berm occurred, and the berm eventually disappeared. On the backshore of the upper berm about 50 cm of erosion took place so that the elevation became lower. However, tangible erosion was not observed in the lower berm. When typhoon Danas hit, rated as mild storm, both upper and lower berm were eroded out. However, about 50 cm of deposition occurred only in the backshore. Only three days later, the new lower berm was formed, meaning that sedimentation rate must be high. This result indicates that Gamji gravel beach is recovered very fast from erosion caused by the typhoons when it is under the fair-weather condition even though beach morphology changes dramatically in a short period of time. Gravel beach is estimated to be or evaluated very resilient to typhoon erosion.