• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.39-53
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• 2008

Today is a 'high concept' era in which consumers make sensible consumption that shares a sensible bond with a brand. Therefore, it is important to analyze consumers' aesthetic awareness; namely, fashion feeling in the fashion industry. This study conducted research into a fashion design planning process according to a fashion feeling focusing on computer graphics suited to the 21st century digital trend. First, the study classified a fashion feeling with eight senses including elegance, classic, modern, mannish, sporty, avant-garde, ethnic, and romantic feelings. Second, the study made an image map, color map, material map, and style map with Adobe Photoshop CS3 by dividing a fashion planning process with a computer graphics program. Also, the study made a flat illustration with Adobe Illustrator CS3. Third, the study proposed the image map, color map, material map, style map, fashion illustration and flat illustration in the design planning process under the theme of the aforementioned eight fashion feelings.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.137-156
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to analyze types of roles and fashion of the Chinese first ladies and provide basic data for fashion image-making of first ladies. As for the research methods, the concepts, role types, and fashion of the first ladies were considered by referring to the precedent studies and relevant literature. Then, the fashion images according to role types were analyzed by collecting the photos of Chinese first ladies from the period of the Republic of China until today. The results were as follows: First, when the roles of Chinese first ladies were categorized based on ceremonial, political, and policy roles, Zhuo Lin and Wang Yeping played a ceremonial role; Wang Guangmei, Liu Yongqing, and Peng Liyuan played a political role; and Soong Qingling, Soong Mayling, and Jiang Qing played a policy role while they were first ladies. While the first ladies of the Republic of China often wore classic Chinese styles like traditional qipao as well as western clothes which contained a western influence, the first ladies of the People's Republic of China wore more colorful clothes and more accessories in the later period, and also often wore clothes that combined traditional and western elements. Second, first ladies who played a ceremonial role showed mannish and classic images; those who played a political role showed elegant, classic, and diverse images according to T.P.O; and those who played a policy role showed feminine, modern, and mannish images. Fashion images of the first ladies varied according to the level of political involvement, the sociocultural background of China at that time, and their personality and preference.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.10
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• pp.11-23
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to express the sexuality of feminism in the modern fashion. As for the methods of research, literary research was carried out using reference based on feminism history and sexuality concept and demonstrative analysis was undertaken using 2000's collections photographs. In the results of that, the sexuality of gender resistance feminism is featured by three key words: sado-masochism sexuality, bi sexuality and hetero sexuality. First, sado-masochism sexuality shows fetish look and dominatrix look shown in the strong attitudes. Sado-masochism sexuality is setting fetishes such as mask, whip, chain, metallic materials and tight leather boots. Second, bi sexuality presents mannish look of soft and feminie style's slim pants suit with ruffle, flounce and decorated detail blouse. and fetish look wearing of sexual symbol clothes such as corset and bustier. Third, hetero sexuality represent glamour look which exposure and emphasis of breasts, hips and other sexual symbols.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.6
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• pp.101-115
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to define women's classic tailored suits surviving, despite current millennial impulses tend toward disintegration in style. Through documentary study, the reason which women had chosen the mannish tailored suits instead of sumptuous dresses in the 20th century beginnings is considered carefully. Also, examining the process of transition of women's classic suits makes it possible to infer the aesthetic characteristics of them. According to study, women had began to wear tailored suits acquiring physical comfort and the equality of the sexes. In the early stage, women imitated men's tailored suits in order to show seriousness, intelligent, capability for social success. However, in accordance with the advance of women's social position women modified it to suits themselves to present intrinsic feminity as well as masculine values. By staying the basic form, classic tailored suits have undergone constant internal changes in relation to sexuality. The aesthetic properties of women's classic tailored suits can be inferred as moderation, dualism, and versatility. In conclusion, the credibility with own authority and the evolutionary character inhering in the classic tailored suits could explain the continuity of them.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.529-538
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• 1993

This study was intended to identify the hierarchy of clothing images, which is expected to be helpful in style classification and product positioning. A questionnaire consisted of 110 words expressing clothing images was developed, and eight clothing photographs were selected as stimuli. 289 female subjects aged between 22 to 37 responded to two of the eight photographs during September, 1991. 110 words were reduced to 62 words based on their independence before conducting factor analysis to identify the constructing factors of clothing images. Nine words with negative connotations were eliminated, because they are not sought in product development. To explain the hierarchy of clothing images, cluster analysis was applied. To observe the association of 53 words, dendrogram was introduced, and to interpret the result, eleven sub clusters were determined. This 11 clusters were continuously combined according to their similarities, until they integrated into one 'clothing image'. Two major division of image clusters were 'graceful and feminine image', and 'mannish and simple image'.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.1 no.3
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• pp.45-59
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• 1997

This study, on the military fashion which has been inspired by the men's military uniform, is composed of an examination of the following; the aspect on the women's hi-fashion and the street fashion and the analysis of it's intention. On hi-fashion, from the 1960s to the early half of the 1970s, by the influence of the minimalism, maintained it's couture style, which is the formal image as well as moderating the line and simplifying the details, From the latter part of the 1970s to the 1980s, mannish image was sensed greatly by the wide shoulders with pads and large silhouette. The 1990's theme was the retro. Many different expression techniques appeared, but the trend was the retro. However, on the streets, young generation and hippies wore unisex army mode because of the influence of anti-war movement. Also, Hell's Angels, punks used black leather jacket with Nazi symbol, badge and eyelet expressed to show their aggressiveness as an avantgarde fashion. The intentions of military fashion can be analyzed as women's amazon need, the feeling of movement, and the spirit of rebellion.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.27-35
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• 2019

Fashion Influencer of Instagram get a lot of attention from the public, and they play a major role in shaping peoples' taste. This study attempts to analyze the fashion design of fashion influencer in Instagram. The data was collected from Apr. 15th to April 30th, 2017, and the pictures were collected from May, 2016 to April, 2017. Total of 460 pictures were collected based on the number of "likes". The method of study was content analysis and the cross tabulation analysis and frequency using SPSS Statics 24 Based on the above results, influencers were mostly models that have many "likes" on their photos. Many of influencers were wearing black, white, or blue dresses that do not have any patterns. Many others were wearing indigo, black, or white jeans with T-shirts. In summary of the above contents, influencer also found out that the materials of their clothes were both hard and soft, and that the casual style was the most popular among influencer, and that influencer also liked elegant, modern, mannish, or sexy looks. Therefore, through this study, it was found that the fashion design of influencer had a unique fashion image. Gigi Hadid, Kendall Jenner, and Blake Lively are the representative influencers of fashion instagram. Gigi Hadid was a casual and manish image, Kendall Jenner was a casual and sexy image, and Blake Lively was an elegant image.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.55-68
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• 2008

This study is aiming to set a characteristic design and a fashion trend by analyzing hat style trends and fashion images shown in fashion collections in recent seven years. Also, based on the result of the analysis on the five world's major collections, the influence and the interrelation of hat and fashion image were analyzed. The study was performed by the context analysis method and the image evaluation method. In the context analysis method, the 1,391 pictures for hat-styles which were believed to be the standard of fashion style from the S/S season of 1998 to the F/W season of 2004 were analyzed. The research is summarized as follows. Based on the result of the fashion collections, the kinds of hats came Bowler, Beret, Cloche, Capeline, Cap and Hood in order, and Casual, Feminine, Natural, Formal, Romantic, and Mannish came in order for the case of the fashion images for putting on a hat. The result of the analysis on the characteristic of fashion design according to the kinds of hats, the casual image, with highest frequency, was found from all of the kinds except Capeline. Bowler and Cloche were conspicuous in jackets/slacks, Capeline was conspicuous in one-piece shape, and cloth silhouette showed the highest frequency in H type. As for Bowler, the color of cloth and hat was mostly black, and as for Beret and Cloche, achromatic color showed the highest frequency. But as for Capeline, the cloth color, including chromatic color, was various. As for Beret, pattern and material image were various comparatively, but as for other kinds of hats, there were the materials with no pattern and with hard material image.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.6
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• pp.903-919
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• 2016

This study aimed to contribute to the development of various female fashion designs by reviewing the genderless styles in androgynous trends that have loomed large in women's fashion, as well as through analyzing and organizing the changes in women's fashion that were required in a society in which various values coexist. A literature review was conducted to identify the genderless concepts, through which a total of 1,273 materials were selected from 10 brands of the S/S collections, during the period of 2006~2016. The results were as follows: first, without the juxtaposition of incongruous objects or images and a fixed type of color arrangements, the compromise shown in women's fashion were mostly expressed through various tones and diverse colors, and with the mixed use of heterogeneous patterns and materials. Second, the enjoyment of genderless styles was expressed with the unexpectedness that occur through symmetry/asymmetry and harmony/disharmony, as well as through the deviation from conventional notions regarding clothing structures. Third, the exaggeration expressed in women's clothing collections perfectly covered up a woman's body shape with the silhouette of exorbitantly expanded bulk and dimensions. These were done with extended lengths, expanded adornments, and modified clothing design types or structures. Fourth, the sensuality of genderless styles analyzed in women's fashion was expressed with mannish clothing that accentuates the beauty of the female body. Lastly, the historicity shown in genderless styles was expressed through clothing that represented traditional styles of the past, the symbolic meanings expressed in the clothes' colors and patterns, and the methods in which the decorative factors were utilized.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.19-30
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• 1984

There is a symbolic term which has realized custom of an era and has eome into fashion since the middle of 1920's. That is Garconne. This paper studied the image and costume of Garconne expressed in literary works, the form of art made it to come into being, and costume of a group of women played a role of pioneers of Garconne. Garconne attempted simple, casual, and mannish costume instead of usual elegance. It was the boiysh style($\`{a}$, la Garconne) which did not stress on the bust and waist like chanel suits used wool jersey by a designer, Chanel ana short skirts of low waist line. They got short haircut and wore low heel shoes. Garconne meant women who were free of convention, were familiar with love a d profession, and lived for themselves in the same manner of young men. They yieled new mode of 1920's. Though their lives were only a period, they manifested the symbol of the period though their figure and designation was not disappeared at the age but was settled as a mark of fixed image. There were several reasons why the Garconne was born. Rapid changes in politics, economics, and society in Europe were occurred from the First World War to 1920 and the trend of custom and art was a turning point. Especially, the entry of women into the society and the mode of Art Deco influenced it directly. The role of a pioneer of Garconne was appeared from the French Revolution. As Merveilleuse, Lionne, and Bloomers wore peculiar clothings ana had life style being irrelevant to tradition, they were talked about. They informed in advance the appearance of new women who were different from romantic ladies and were more modern and active. The pioneer design of Paul Poiret which were over whelming throughout a period and functional design of Chanel were increasingly accelerated.