• 대한화장품학회:학술대회논문집
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• 대한화장품학회 2003년도 IFSCC Conference Proceeding Book II
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• pp.370-378
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• 2003

MFD (Make up Film Deterioration) is a gradual deterioration of applied make up and is a common problem experienced by most foundation users. Our investigation revealed that for 64% of all make up users MFD is their greatest consern is using foundations. Known that the primary cause of MFD is sebum secretion. We observed that the length of time prior to onset of MFD in people who produce high level of sebum varies significantly from person to person. This suggests that other factors besides quantity of sebum production can affect MFD. Control over this factor would, we believe, be key to developing longer-lasting makeups. We studied the relationship between MFD and skin surface conditions. Our study revealed that furrows on the skin surface affect MFD significantly. Sebum reaches the skin surface from sebaceous glands and flows along furrow on the skin. If there are many deep furrows, it takes longer for sebum to overflow. But if the furrows are few or shallow, sebum quickly overflows and spreads over the skin surface where it can degrade the make up film. Therefore even when the volume of sebum produced is the same, the rate of MFD will be different depending on the number and shape of the furrows. A longer-lasting foundation could be produced by matching personal skin condition, but this would be very difficult because individual variations in texture are very large. Therefore we approached the problem by attempting to impose sebum resistance in under make up and foundation. We have developed two new materials and make up products based on our theory. A new fluoroalkyl acrylate-methacrylates copolymer designed for incorporation in under make up is extremely sebum resistant and sweat proof. Another new acrylate polymer designed for inclusion in foundation absorbs sebum and changes to a solid. Usage tests confirm it is possible to reduce MFD by using under make up and foundation which incorporate our new materials to cover where skin furrows are few or shallow

• 대한화장품학회지
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• 제25권4호
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• pp.97-110
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• 1999

The new stick make-up product was studied by using a gel, which is a viscous complex formed with clay minerals, vitamins A and E and fluorinated liquid polymer with a 1500 molecular weight. The gel cannot be obtained with any random combination of clay minerals and the ingredients described above. It takes the sequential manufacturing method as follows to get this kind of gel. Firstly, clay minerals and liquid polymers have to be pre-mixed in order to saturate the liquid polymers with the clay minerals. Then the on-processed gel has to be finely crystallized. The clay minerals, which are the core elements for this gel, were used as a function of Binder & Buffer and liquid polymer was mixed together for the deterioration of the surface tension of each component and to form a functional film in the gel. This liquid polymer was combined with clay minerals because it is not miscible with most oils and solvents. Waxes have a function of keeping a solid status in the stick. We reduced the usage of waxes by putting clay minerals as buffer in the proportion of 0.5:1 with oil phase. Ceramide takes care of the skin when used regularly and maintains the skin's moisture. Vitamins A and E contribute to preventing skin aging by the activation of skin cells. We could get the stable viscous gel, which has about 80% oil phase using clay minerals and liquid polymer. The crystalline structures of gel were surface-chemically-analyzed using SEM and Image Analyzer and were thermodynamically analyzed using DSC. Surface tension test and softness were done by Rheometer. In the end, these characteristics were verified by consumer panel tests in Seoul, Daegeon and Pusan in Korea and Hokkaido, Osaka and Miyazaki in Japan with correlation to the climate.

• 대한화장품학회:학술대회논문집
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• 대한화장품학회 1999년도 IFSCC . ASCS 학술대회 발표 논문
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• pp.97-110
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• 1999

The new stick make-up product was studied by using a gel, which is a viscous complex formed with clay minerals, vitamins A and I and fluorinated liquid polymer with a 1500 molecular weight. The gel cannot be obtained with any random combination of clay minerals and the ingredients described above. It takes the sequential manufacturing method as follows to get this kind of gel. Firstly, clay minerals and liquid polymers have ·to be pre-mixed in order to saturate the liquid polymers with the clay minerals. Then tile on-processed gel has to be finely crystallized. The clay minerals, which are the core elements for this gel, were used as a function of Binder & Buffer and liquid polymer was mixed together for the deterioration of the surface tension of each component and to from a functional film in the gel. This liquid polymer was combined with clay minerals because it is not miscible with most oils and solvents. Waxes have a function of keeping a solid status in the stick. We reduced the usage of waxes by putting clay minerals as buffer in the proportion of 0.5 : 1 with oil phase. Ceramide takes care of the skin when used regularly and maintains the skin’s moisture. Vitamins A and I contribute to preventing skin’aging by the activation of skin cells. We could get the stable viscous gel, which has about 80% oil phase using clay minerals and liquid polymer, The crystal 1 me structures of gel were surface-chemical1y-analyzed using SEM and Image Analyzer and were thermodynamically analyzed using DSC, Surface tension test and softness were done by Rheometer. In the end, these characteristics were verified by consumer panel tests in Seoul, Baegeon and Pusan in Korea and Hokkaido, Oska and Miyazaki in Japan with correlation to the climate.