• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.8 no.2
• /
• pp.193-203
• /
• 1996

Long period waves were measured at two stations outside and inside Chukpyon Harbor using two pressure-type wave gauges for one week that covers storm sea period. Based on the collected data the characteristics of long-period resonant oscillations were analysed: the resonant period corresponding to the peak spectral density are slightly different from one to the component wave period with the largest amplification ratio, and the latter period is suggested as that of the first resonant mode. From the analysed field data and numerical modeling, the first resonant mode of Chukpyon Harbor region appeared to be around 12 minutes with amplification ratio of 7, whose amplitude varies 10-20 cm inside of the harbour, and also the second mode appeared to be around 6 minutes. The waves of 2-3 minute periods were resonated apparently in the harbour, which is considered to be generated from group-bounded irregular waves and non-linear wave-wave interaction etc. The linearly decreasing reflection coefficients used in the numerical modeling appeared to be an alternative in calculating reflected waves in harbor.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
• /
• v.34 no.3
• /
• pp.873-883
• /
• 2014

This study proposed an estimation method of allowable wave height for loading and unloading of the ship considering ship motion that is affected by ship sizes, mooring conditions, wave periods and directions. The method was examined validity by comparison with wave field data at pier $8^{th}$ in Pohang new harbor. The wave field data obtained with wave height of 0.10~0.75m and wave period of 7~13s in ship sizes of 800~35,000ton when a downtimes have occurred. On the other hand, the results of allowable wave height for loading and unloading of the ship in this method have obtained with wave heights of 0.19~0.50m and wave periods of 8~12s for ship sizes of 5,000, 10,000 and 30,000ton. Thus this method well reproduced the field data respond to various a ship sizes and wave periods. And the results of this method tended to decrease in 16~62% when have considered long wave, and it is decreased in 0~46% when didn't consider long wave than design standards in case of the ship sizes of 5,000~30,000ton, wave period of 12s and wave angle of $75^{\circ}C$. The allowable wave heights for loading and unloading of the ship proposed by design standards are didn't respond to various the ship sizes and wave periods, and we have found that the design standards has overestimated on smaller than 10,000ton.

• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
• /
• v.7 no.6
• /
• pp.1056-1063
• /
• 2015

Waves can be expressed in terms of a spectrum; that is, the energy density distribution of a representative wave can be determined using statistical analysis. The JONSWAP, PM and BM spectra have been widely used for the specific target wave data set during storms. In this case, the extracted wave data are usually discontinuous and independent and cover a very short period of the total data-recording period. Previous studies on the continuous wave spectrum have focused on wave deformation in shallow water conditions and cannot be generalized for deep water conditions. In this study, the Generalized Extreme Value (GEV) function is proposed as a more-optimal function for the fitting of the continuous wave spectral shape based on long-term monitored point wave data in deep waters. The GEV function was found to be able to accurately reproduce the wave spectral shape, except for discontinuous waves of greater than 4 m in height.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.13 no.3
• /
• pp.209-229
• /
• 2001

Simultaneous field measurements of short-period and long-period waves were made at five stations inside or outside Okkye Harbor, which is located in the east coast of Korea. Based on the measured data, spacial and temporal variations of the long-period wave energy were examined. Three smoothing methods were examined for the spectral estimates: fixed interval averaging method, incremental interval averaging method, and moving averaging method. It was shown that a proper smoothing method should be chosen depending on the period of first resonant mode and the length of data being used. By comparing the results obtained using the long-term data with those obtained using two-day data, we showed that it is necessary to analyze the data of calm seas and storm seas separately. The Helmholtz resonant period in Okkye Harbor was found to be about 9.6 minutes with its relative amplification ratio of 9 to 10, and local amplifications were apparent at the periods of 1.2 to 1.3 minutes and 0.7 minute. During calm seas, both at the harbor entrance and inside the harbor the energy of the waves of 9 minutes or longer period was larger than the infra-gravity wave energy by more than 100 times. However, during storm seas the energy level was very high all over the period band, and local amplification was larger than that during calm seas by more than 100 times, especially inside the harbor, Finally it was shown that the energies of the Helmholtz resonant mode and the infra-gravity waves of 1 to 2 minutes are proportional to the storm wave height.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.28 no.2
• /
• pp.109-115
• /
• 2016

The trend in appearance of storm waves on the east coast of Korea was investigated based on long-term wave data observed at six different stations. At the four wave stations of KIOST (Sokcho, Mukho, Hupo, and Jinha), no notable trend was found during the observation period with respect to the annual average and maximum values of the significant wave height. In addition, the annual number of the appearance of storm waves showed decreasing trend at the three stations except Jinha, where slightly increasing trend of the quantity was recognized. In contrast, at Donghea ocean data buoy of KMA, abruptly increasing trend was found for the annual average and maximum of the significant wave height and for the annual number of the appearance of storm waves as well, demonstrating lack of consistency in the observation data from Donghea buoy of KMA.

• Korean Journal of Remote Sensing
• /
• v.39 no.4
• /
• pp.441-458
• /
• 2023

Tropical cyclones frequently occur in the Southwest Pacific Ocean and are considered one of the driving forces for coastal alterations. Therefore, this study investigates the frequency and intensity of tropical cyclonesfrom 2000 to 2021 and their influence on the surface winds and wave conditions around the atoll nation Tuvalu. Cyclone best-track and ERA5 single-level reanalysis data are utilized to analyze the condition of the surface winds, significant wave heights, mean wave direction, and mean wave period. Additionally, the scatterometer-derived wind information was employed to compare wind conditions with the ERA5 data. On average, nine cyclones per year originated here, and the frequency increased to 11 cyclones during the last three years while the intensity decreased by 25 m/s (maximum sustained wind speed). Besides, a total of 14 cyclones were observed around Tuvalu during the period from 2015 to 2021, which showed an increase of 3 cyclones compared to the preceding period of 2001 to 2007. During cyclones, the significant wave height reached the highest 4.8 m near Tuvalu, and the waves propagated in the east-southeast direction during most of the cyclone events (52%). In addition, prolonged swells with a mean wave period of 7 to 11 seconds were generated in the vicinity of Tuvalu, for which coastal alteration can occur. After this preliminary analysis, it was found that the waves generated by cyclones have a crucial impact in altering the coastal area of Tuvalu. In the future, remotely sensed high-resolution satellite data with this wave information will be used to find out the degree of alterations that happened in the coastal area of Tuvalu before and after the cyclone events.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.24 no.5
• /
• pp.343-351
• /
• 2012

In this study, shallow-water design waves are calculated for the return period of 10, 20, 30, and 50 years, based on the extreme value analysis of the wave measurement data at Gangneung beach. These values are compared with the results of SWAN simulation with the boundary condition of the deep-water design waves of the corresponding return periods at the Gangneung sea area provided by the Fisheries Agency (FA, 1988) and Korea Ocean Research & Development Institute (KORDI, 2005). It is found that the shallow-water wave heights at Gangneung beach calculated by the deep-water design waves were significantly less than the observation data. As the return period becomes higher, the significant wave heights obtained by the extreme value analysis becomes higher than those computed by SWAN with the deep-water design waves of the corresponding return periods. KORDI computed the hindcast wave data from January 2004 to August 2008 by WAM with a finer-grid mesh system than those of previous studies. Comparisons of the wave hindcast results with the wave observation show that the reproducibility of the winter-season storm wave was considerably improved compared to the hindcast data from 1979 to 2003. Hereafter, it is necessary to carry out hindcast wave data for the years before 2004 using WAM with the finer-grid mesh system and to supplement the deep-water design wave.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
• /
• v.7 no.3
• /
• pp.137-145
• /
• 2004

Long-term wave distribution at Jeju sea is investigated by a numerical simulation based on the thirdgeneration wave model SWAN (Simulating WAves Nearshore). The Jeju sea which retains relatively high wave energy density among Korean coastal regions is considered to be a suitable site for wave power generation and the efficiency of wave power generation is closely related to local wave characteristics. The monthly mean of a large-scale long-term wave data from 1979 to 2002, which is provided by Korea Ocean Research & Development Institute. is used as the boundary condition of SWAN model simulation with 1km grid. An analysis of wave distribution concentrates on the seasonal variation and spatial distribution of significant wave heights, mean wave directions and mean wave periods. Significant wave heights are higher in winter and summer and the west sea of Jeju appears relatively higher than east's. The highest significant wave height occurs at the northeast sea in winter and the second highest significant wave height appears at the southeast sea in summer, while the significant wave heights in spring and autumn are relatively low but homogeneous. The distribution of wave directions reveals that except the rear region influenced by wave refraction, the northwest wave direction is dominant in summer and the southeast in winter. Wave periods are longer in summer and winter and the west sea of Jeju appears relatively longer than east's. The longest wave period occurs at the west sea in winter, and in summer it appears relatively homogeneous with a little longer period at the south sea.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
• /
• v.21 no.6
• /
• pp.637-644
• /
• 2015

In order to estimate harbor tranquility, it is needed to simulate wave propagation in a harbor by using both methods under abnormal wave condition and normal wave condition. The problem is the latter case was not simulated in the statement for the Sea Area Utilization Conference. As harbor calmness about normal wave condition has the same meaning as harbor serviceability, in order to assess harbor tranquility, it is needed to survey wave data for long periods but the survey was not done by reason of a lack of budget and shortage of time for plan. It is more important to make a plan for minimizing environmental impact and to assess an improvement of fisherman's living environmental as the assessment of the harbor serviceability is related with the propriety of the plan. In order to assess it, it is needed to understand it clearly, survey for long period of wave data, and clarify the procedure for computation of it. And also providing wave data like tide and tidal current data from KHOA (Korea Hydro graphic and Oceanographic Agency) and making a guideline for assessing it are needed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
• /
• v.21 no.5
• /
• pp.599-607
• /
• 2015

The purpose of this study is to reproduce long-term wave fields in coastal waters of Korea based on wave hind-casting modelling and discuss its applications. To validate wind data(NCEP, ECMWF, JMA-MSM), comparison of wind data was done with wave buoy data. JMA-MSM predicted wind data with high accuracy. But due to relatively longer period of ECMWF wind data as compared to that of JMA-MSM, wind data set of ECMWF(2001~2014) was used to perform wave hind-casting modelling. Results from numerical modelling were verified with the observed data of wave buoys installed by Korea Meteorological Administration(KMA) and Korea Hydrographic and Oceanographic Agency(KHOA) on offshore waters. The results agree well with observations at buoy stations, especially during the event periods such as a typhoon. Consequently, the wave data reproduced by wave hind-casting modelling was used to obtain missing data in wave observation buoys. The obtained missing data indicated underestimation of maximum wave height during the event period at some points of buoys. Reasons for such underestimation may be due to larger time interval and resolution of the input wind data, water depth and grid size etc. The methodology used in present study can be used to analyze coastal erosion data in conjunction with a wave characteristic of the event period in coastal areas. Additionally, the method can be used in the coastal disaster vulnerability assessment to generate wave points of interest.