• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.247-258
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• 2014

To evaluate the influence of the external force components on the littoral currents in the Gusipo beach, Jeonbuk, West Coast of Korea where a wide tidal sand flat developed, a coupled hydrodynamic model considered real time tidal currents and wave-induced currents was constructed in which the EFDC for tides and tidal currents, the SWAN for waves and the SHORECIRC for wave-induced currents were used as the hindcasting models. A series of field observations for tides, tidal currents and incident waves were carried out and especially to observe the littoral currents in the tidal sand flat, the GPS mounted and light weight drogues were used. Also wind data were collected from the adjacent weather station. To analyze the littoral current components, the numerical drogue tracking results considered real time winds, tides and waves were compared with the field drogue data. The drift speed of numerical drogues was reproduced as the range of 68.0~105.2% compared with the field data and the velocity error of main direction component showed a good result as -16.7~10.0%. As a result, in the mild slope tidal flat including wide surf zone, the tides and winds were the major affection component of the littoral currents, on the other hand, the wave-induced currents seemed the minor component when the incident wave heights were relatively small.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.30 no.6
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• pp.498-504
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• 2016

In this study, to predict the effect of beach nourishment at Haeundae Beach, the waves and wave-induced currents were compared before and after beach nourishment using the XBEACH model. Representative wave conditions were determined for the data observed during 2014 (KHOA). Then, the Hs,max and Hs,1/10 values, and their prevalent directions, were used in the numerical modeling input data. A variable grid system was used for the $5km{\times}2.5km$ model areas, and irregular waves based on the JONSWAP spectrum were given as incident wave conditions. In the summer season, eastward wave-induced currents were developed along the beach by the incident wave direction. Before the beach nourishment, the maximum speed around the surf zone was 1.2-1.5 m/s in the central zone of the beach, whereas the maximum speed increased to 1.4-1.6 m/s at the same areas when the currents toward Mipo Harbor were blocked as an effect of the groins after the beach nourishment. In the winter season, westward wave-induced currents were developed along the beach by the incident wave direction. After the beach nourishment, the maximum current speed increased slightly around the surf zone in the central area of the beach, and the littoral current speed decreased at the submerged breakwaters located at Dongbaek Island. As a result, after the beach nourishment, the maximum wave-induced currents increased about 10% in the surf zone of the central area of the beach.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.50-55
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• 1999

Gao and Collins method (two-dimensional sediment transport trend-vector model) using grain-size parameters (mean grain size, sorting coefficient, and skewness) calculated by the statistical moment method is introduced to understand semi-quantitatively the sandy and surficial sediment transport trends on a coast of the East Sea. The result is the sediment transport vectors which indicate transport paths of surficial sediment by wave-induced currents. The corresponding morphological feature is a spit developed at the mouth of the Nam¬dae stream, which is a resultant sediment transported by longshore current and is blocking the circulation of ocean. After this, it is thought that seasonal research and hydrodynamic measurements are needed for verification of the results.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.179-187
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• 2018

In order to understand the flow of currents around Aphae Island and the surrounding Archipelago, the numerical model experiments on tidal currents and tide-induced residual currents were carried out. Dominant semidiurnal tidal currents have a reversing form and flow along the narrow channels of the archipelago. During periods of flood, currents flow from the west of Hwawon Peninsula to the archipelago to the northwest together with the currents flowing from the channels at Palgeum Island to Amtae Island and Amtae Island to Jeung Island. Ebb currents flow from the northwest archipelago to the channel of Amtae Island and Jeung Island as well as Amtae Island to Palgeum Island, further flowing south between Palgeum Island and Hwawon Peninsula. Flood currents are separated from east and west at the southern coast of Aphae Island, but flow south from both the west and east of Aphae Island to the channel found between Palgeum Island and Hwawon Peninsula at ebb. Flow speed is high between Amtae Island and Aphae Island where the flows meet and join. Lee wakes or topographical eddies are formed around the islands due to the high speed of the currents flowing along the narrow channel in the archipelago, manifesting as a tide-induced residual current. A weak cyclonic wake and anti-cyclonic eddy both exist at the west and northwestern coast of Aphae Island individually. The speed of the tide-induced residual current become slow on account of the wide littoral zone at exists around Aphae Island.

• 한국해양학회지
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.59-73
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• 1972

The heavy minerals of a barred estuarine and lagoonal sediments along the North Carolina coast have been studied with more than one hundred samples. Currents, salinity, and pH exhibit well-developed gradients from the upstream parts of the estuaries on the west toward the open ocean on the east. Twenty- four heavy minerals were identified in sediments of the study area. However, less than half of these occur frequently and the remainder exist only in minor quantities or trace amounts. Heavy minerals usually comprise less than 1% of the sample but vary from sample to sample. The maximum amount of heavy minerals in sediments of sounds and estuaries is 2.4% and in sediments of Outer Banks is 16.7%. Opaque minerals range from 10 to 85% of the total heavy mineral assemblage. Garnet and sillimanite are relatively more abundant in the eastern part than the western part in the area. Garnet more abundant in the northern part than the southern part, whereas sillimanite is more abundant in the southern part than the northern part, because the garnet source is in the northern part and one of the sillimanite source is in the southern part in the study area. The results of heavy mineral study indicate that the source of sediments is the Blue Ridge and Piedmont crystalline complex, and Coastal Plain formations. Some portions of sediments are transported from the Atlantic Ocean by the landward currents. They further indicate that the sediments of the Atlantic coast in the study area are transported mainly from the northern part to southern part by longshore littoral currents, and some portions of sediments are transported from the southern part to the northern part by the Gulf Stream.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.33 no.6
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• pp.308-320
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• 2021

An integrated sediment management approach that includes the recovery of the amount of declined sediment supply is effective as a fundamental solution to coastal erosion. During planning, it is essential to analyze the transfer mechanism of the sediments generated from estuaries (the junction between a river and sea) to assess the amount and rate of sediment discharge (from the river to sea) supplied back to the coast. Although numerical models that interpret the tidal sand bar flushing process during flooding have been studied, thus far, there has been no study focusing on the formation and development processes of tidal sand bars. Therefore, this study aims to construct wave deformation, flow regime calculation, and topographic change analysis models to assess the amount of recovered sediment discharge and reproduce the tidal sand bar formation process through numerical analysis for integrated littoral drift management. The tidal sand bar formation process was simulated, and the wave energy and duration of action concepts were implemented to predict the long-term littoral movement. The river flux and wave conditions during winter when tidal sand bars dominantly develop were considered as the external force conditions required for calculation. The initial condition of the topographic data directly after the Maeupcheon tidal sand bar flushing during flooding was set as the initial topography. Consequently, the tidal sand bar formation and development due to nearshore currents dependent on the incident wave direction were reproduced. Approximately 66 h after the initial topography, a sand bar formation was observed at the Maengbang estuary.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.177-188
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• 1991

The littoral drift in the nearshore zone occurs mainly due to wave action and nearshore currents. Beach topotraphical evolution model presented in this study shows the possibility which can be applied to the prediction of beach deformation over short time interval, associated with the construction of coastal structures. The 3-dimensional beach evolution model, based on Watanabe's equation and Deguchi's flux model, is developed and consists of three submodels of wave transformation, rip-currents, and beach deformation. This model is applied to the several cases with different conditions and compared with the results of Watanabe's numerical model. In addition, the effects of parameters involved are discussed.

• Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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• 2002.05a
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• pp.257-262
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• 2002

Numerical model introduced in this study combines wave refraction-diffraction, breaking, bottom friction, lateral mixing, and critical shear stress and three sub-models for simulating waves, currents, and bottom change were briefly discussed. Simulations of beach processes and harbor sedimentation were also described at the coast neighboring Bangpo Harbor, Anmyundo, Chungnam, where the area has suffered from accumulation of drifting sand in a small fishing harbor with a wide tidal range. We also made model test for the case of a narrow tidal range at Nakdong river's estuary area to understand the effect of water level variation on the littoral drift. Simulations are conducted in terms of incident wave direction and tidal level. Characteristics of wave transformation, nearshore current, sediment transport, and bottom change are shown and analyzed. We found from the simulation that the tidal level impact to the sediment transport is very important and we should apply the numerical model with different water level to analyze sediment transport mechanism correctly. Although the model study gave reasonable description of beach processes and harbor sedimentation mechanism, it is necessary to collect lots of field observation data, including waves, tides and bottom materials, etc. for better prediction.

• Korean Journal of Remote Sensing
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.403-410
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• 2011

Consistent observation with high temporal and spatial resolution is required for an efficient monitoring of coastal environments. Remote monitoring system installed on the ground is capable of simultaneous observation of wide coastal area and consistent observation with high frequency, which a small number of in-situ measurements cannot manage. This paper studies two typical ground based coastal monitoring system, marine radar and camera system. Marine radar can produce time series of frequency spectrum by integrating wave number spectrum calculated from spatial and temporal variation of waves in the radar image. The time averaged radar images of waves can analyze wave breaking zone, rip currents and location of littoral bars. Camera system can observe temporal variation of foam generation originated from coastal contamination as well as shoreline changes. By extracting the part of foams from rectified images, quantitative analysis of temporal foam variation can be done. By using the two above systems of different characteristics, synergetic benefit can be achieved.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2007.12a
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• pp.141-142
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• 2007

In recent years, the rate of mean sea level rise is increasing rapidly from the phenomena of global warming, together with the increasing trend of the storm scale. The issue of sea level rise is multifaceted and produces a range of environmental problems. Especially, high tides and the tidal currents become higher, and wave base increases, so the energy received at the coastal boundary may increase. This brings that many coastal environments go into disequilibrium, such as damages to the structures, erosion, and deposition Similarly it was known that the problems of nearshore processes and damage of berth and counter facilities during storm period had appeared at the small fishery port. Here we try to analyze the impact of the rearrangement of counter facilities and berth layout adopted for tranquility of its'inner harbor. Because this harbor is being connected to channel and open sea, the rearrangement of the structures might affect to the current speed and direction and wave height, so do to the sea bottom undulation. Therefore, we made model test for the several layouts of the berth and breakwater in this area.