• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.50 no.8
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• pp.1-11
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to compare and analyze the application of raditional elements in Lie Sang bong and Vivienne Tam's Fashion Design. The methods of research, the references to the precedents of prior research, fashion related journals, articles, and websites of designers were examined to analyze how each designer reinterpreted the respective homeland's traditions. The designs of Lie Sang bong and Vivienne Tam studied were from the 2002-03 F/W to the 2012 S/S collections. The results are as follow. First, both designers use traditional marks when reinterpreting the traditional clothes of Korea and China. In the case of Lie Sang bong, traditional Korean marks were linked to the western structure. For Vivienne Tam, designs which revived realistic marks identically were displayed. Second, in terms of the modern reinterpretation of the traditional clothes shapes, there were a number of cases in which the silhouettes of their respective country's traditional clothes were mainly brought into their arts. Lie Sang bong was influenced by the 'line' of traditional Korean design. In addition, the atmosphere of the traditional clothes helped to reanalyze the traditional clothes' figure. In Vivienne Tam's designs, unique Chinese images were produced by, keeping the original form of the Chinese dress. Third, in the use of the traditional ornament techniques, Lie Sang bong partially introduced and applied traditional ornament techniques while Vivienne Tam largely decorated the traditional. Chinese ornaments while directly utilizing the structuring designs.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.1
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• pp.129-143
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• 2002

Patterns are something that comes out of necessity in human life, which is closely associated with it. Thus come the SFAA (Seoul Fashion Artists Association) collection which uses patterns varying in form, color, way of expression and material. For this research, I first categorized the patterns the SFAA designers used into: natural patterns, symmetric patterns, traditional patterns, stripe, plaid, dot and abstract patterns. As a result of the process. the designers most favored the natural patterns and symmetric patterns, and dot patterns were rarely used. The designer who most favored patterns in general was Sul Yun-hyoung, and the designer Kim Chul-ung rarely favored the surface effect. The seven kinds of patterns naturally differ according to the designer. as Park Hang-chi liked to use the plaid patterns along with yam dyeing material, whereas Jin Teok expressed stripe patterns using the yarn dyeing fabric. Natural patters were presented in a bizarre way with Lie Sang-bong. who took the motives appearing in Eastern ceramic and paintings into the clothes, using the print method. The symmetric patterns, which the SFAA designers most preferred. was used evenly among designers like Chang Kwang-hyo, Gee Choon-hee. Rubina, and Haneza. In contrast. Lie Sang-bong. who used abstract patterns that do not give out meaning of the actual form of the pattern. rarely used symmetric patterns. The dot patterns were most often used by Park Youn-soo. and traditional patterns were overwhelmingly chosen by Sul Yun-hyoung. Secondly. in expressing the colors, SFAA designers were much more likely to choose achromatic colors. not choosing to show off colors. This is especially apparent in works by Haneza and Lie Sang-bong. In the SFAA collections, numerous methods were used to create. For instance, Sul Yun-hyoung used the oriental embroidery method. and Rubina and Lie Sang-bong used many unique dying methods. In terms of materials, Sul Yun-hyoung preferred silk. due to her methods, and Lie Sang-bong was one of the designers that used a number of different materials such as vinyl. Jacques Mueclier of the Paris Clothes Association in France, who was invited to SFAA collection once, remarked. "While the choice of material and the actual sewing done were excellent, there lacked much difference among the designers, as most of them choose flowing silhouette In terms of composition," which is all too correct. In addition, there were cases in the collection where the inherent feelings of cultural artifacts was expressed without alteration. Summing up, the research aimed to analyze the surface expression methods, forms and color of SFAA designs. and I hope that it can open up ways for new projects in the future.he future.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.1
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• pp.27-35
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• 2012

This study locates typical Korean fashion images in domestic and foreign fashion journals to advance Korea's international image in contemporary global fashion markets. The investigation of the frequency of articles and their types (so as to inquire into interest in Korean fashion in the global fashion markets) showed that for the appearance frequency of domestic articles studied, a good number of articles were published in the first half of 2008 and in 2009. In the case of foreign articles, the number of them increased from the second half of 2008 and the majority of articles were shown in the first half of 2010. Second, the investigation of the appearance features by article type studied in order to understand how Korean fashion played a role in the world's markets. The majority of articles were related to fashion brands that entered Chinese market in fashion brand articles in the case of domestic articles; however, many foreign articles introduced designers that participated in global fashion collections in Paris and New York. Third, as a result of analyzing typical key words by article type in order to find key words which could enhance Korea's fashion national image representing, we could confirm that 'Korean designers' can be a typical key words to represent Korean fashion. The key word most exposed in both domestic and foreign articles was 'designer Lie Sang Bong' and only his articles contained the content about influential Korean design materials.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.99-111
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• 2012

This study intends to explore the collaborative expression in the modern fashion design by analyzing the collaboration of motifs symbolizing Korean cultural identity. As for the data research, in order to examine the expressional objects of collaboration in the collections of the fashion designers from Korea and overseas who have applied the Korean culture among their collections posted on the Internet sites, www.firstview.com, and www.style.com from 2005 to 2012 were collected for analysis. 923 pictures used in the analysis sheet. As for the research method, the content analysis method was used. In the modern fashion design, the collaborative expression in the motifs symbolizing Korean cultural identity are limited to tangible expression, intangible expression, integrated expression. The results of this study were as follows. First, in the tangible expression, traditional tangible assets are used in the shapes, items, colors, materials, patterns and details to symbolize uniquely Korean image. The intangible expression, the applicability for Korean intangible assets include the master's (intangible cultural assets) and the craftsmanship of the modern designers being collaborated onto the contemporary customs to express the Korean traditional culture in a realistic or an abstract trend. The hybride expression, it is to represent Korean thoughts and values using the tangible elements. Second, The expressivity of collaboration of each year mostly shows integrated expression, intangible expression and tangible expression were shown respectively. The trend of seasonal collaboration expressivity was muchly the integrated expression in most seasons, and intangible expression and tangible expression followed respectively. It is recognizable that the expressivity of collaboration of each designer was; integrated expression was muchly shown in Lie Sang Bong and Lee Young Hee's works, Duri Jung showed much of intangible expression, and much tangible expressivity was shown in Carolina Herrera.