• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.73-85
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to consider the characteristics of beauty culture in the latter period of Chosun Dynasty from the viewpoint of public morals and find out how characteristic beauty culture was developed along with traditional culture. Therefore, the clothes, the make-up, the style of beard and hair were examined and the beauty culture of women in the latter period Chosun Dynasty was considered. The changes of the beauty culture on the genre painting and the characteristics of the latter period Chosun Dynasty were analyzed. Conclusions are as follows ;First, in case of woman dress, the Korean Jergori was short and the Chima was too long. Due to the diversification of wearing, the underpants play as a decorations. Second, the hair which focus on the cleanness and the sanitation and the skin maintenance method were important. The make-up focus on make-up with powder which emphasis on the slim and round eyebrow, the small and thick lips for the beauty look of the latter period Chosun Dynasty. Third, a unmarried woman did the braids('Taun Muri') and a feme covert did 'Unseen Muri'. As people cling to the big and head of hairs gradually, the chignon('Terae Muri') was in fashion. The beauty culture in the latter period of Chosun Dynasty clothes and cosmetic treatment style were generalized through nobility, common people, lowly people. The imitation mentality which follow after Gisaeng style that led the fashion of that period was shown up. With understanding the beauty culture of the latter period of Chosun Dynasty, the study on the traditional beauty culture should be revitalized. This study help to uplift the pride on Korea traditional culture and to promote the globalization of Korean culture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.477-483
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• 2004

The aim of this thesis is to study how tableware china has developed, on the basis of social and cultural changes, during the latter period of Chosun Dynasty. First, general sociological background of Chosun Dynasty has been reviewed. To examine the kinds of tableware china and their use during this period, this thesis is based on Asakawa Dakumis 'A ceramic ware of Chosun Dynasty' one of the most thorough references available in the field. Various antiques and remains of different periods were compared to study the changes in tableware china types and uses In conclusion, the development in food culture brought the changes in tableware china. Tableware china and food has developed together complementarily throughout the latter period of Chosun Dynasty.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.101-118
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• 2002

This study focuses on the ideas that Chok-Du-Ri(족두리)ㆍHwa-Gwan(화관) are mentioned a substitute preventing abuses of luxury mood by Gache(가채) as the sharpest social problem at that time. First, the origin of Chok-Du-Ri(족두리) was introduced from Ko-Ko-Gwan(고고관) of Mongo(몽고) in Korea dynasty, then was linked to Chosun. That is, Ko-Ko(고고) started from headgear reflecting spiritual view of the northen people, its size was getting smaller passing through Ming(명) dynasty, its essential decoration changed and it carried out Jeon-Ja(전자) remaining decoration nature by real accessories, then it might be descended to Chosun. Second, Hwa-Gwan(화관) is very different from Nanaec(난액) of Chosun Dynasty Records, rather Jeonia, the original form of Chok-Du-Ri, is more similar to it. Third, its decoration like color, jewel, pattern etc influenced wishes of this life like sex, prosperity, glory, longevity, blessing, wealth and fame. Fourth, Chok-Du-Ri(족두리) was restored a substitute for Gache(가채), it was accessory for preventing luxury life, besides it was modeled from headgear in China, Chosun people had it. It is worthwhile as it was based on Chosun Sinocentrism(조선중화주의) in the latter period of Chosun and made it the fruit of that age. Moreover, in those days Qing(청) society accepted the advanced culture and institutional profit of Qing(청) actually, social mood is that home and overseas policy was corrected in many parts, Chok-Du-RiㆍHwa-Gwan were mentioned a substitute of Gache, symbol of luxury. It shows one part of Practical Thougth that abolishes vanity and affectation and makes useful profits in the latter period of Chosun.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.4
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• pp.73-87
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• 2000

The court dancing suit, so-called "JeongJae(呈才) suit," has been worn by court dancers on the occasion of the royal court′s feasts or festivals such as auspicious events of a country, court banquets, and parties or receptions for national quests from foreign countries. There are 53 kinds of court dancing suits, ranging from the age of the ancient Three Kingdoms to the period of Chosun Dynasty. The court dancing suits are divided into two styles : DangAk-JeongJae(唐樂呈才) style and HyangAk-feongjae(鄕樂呈才) style, depending on dancing styles. Since the court dancing suits in the age of the ancient Three Kingdoms and Koryo Dynasty have already been studied previously, this study discussed the change of dancing suit styles created in the latter period of Chosun Dynasty, such as YukHwaDae(六花隊), MuSanHyang(舞山香) and ChoonAengJeon(春鶯), and the thought of Yin-Yang and five elements(陰陽五行思想) that the colors of the court dancing suits imply. The purpose of this study is to understand the thoughts contained in the ancient suits as well as their styles in order to inherit and uphold our traditional culture properly.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.36
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• pp.53-75
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• 1998

The kind, the structure, and the motif of the Chosun dynasty's fabrics found mainfy within the Buddhist statues were studied. The total of 62 pieces of fabrice can be classified chronologically as follows ; 27 pieces in the year of 1431, 20 pieces of 1550, 9 pieces of 1664, and 6 pieces of 1735. These 62 fabrics also categorized by the weaving method as follows; 27 plain weaved, 17 twill weaved, 10 pieces of satine weaved, 7 pieces of Leno weaved, and 1 piece of double weaved fabrics. Most of the studied fabrics were silk, the rest were 2 pieces of yam and 1 piece of cotton, Kyun, Chu, and Cho were the plain weaved silk as Nung and Ki were the twill weaved silk, Satine weaved silk was called as Dan and double weaved silk was called Chikum in the Chosun dynasty. 1. The antique fabrics were composed of mainly silk. This is believed due to the utmost devotion to the buddhist statue as an object of worship. 2. In the fabric's structural point of view, th ecrossed 4-ply threads of warp yarn which is one of Leno weaved can be observed fre-quently in the period of Korea dynasty's fabrics. But it started to disappear in the beginning of Chosun dynasty, since only one piece of Ra could be found in the 1431's fabrics. Keum, one of the double weaved structure is assumed to be extinct from the Korea dynasty. Satin weaved fabrics started to be woven from the latter period of Korea dynasty and was very popular in Chosun dynasty. 3. The widths of fabrics in the Chosun dynasty gradually decreased compared with those of Korea dynasty.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.73-83
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• 2006

This study aims to focus on clothing design's practical uses of the superior esthetic elements that can be found among the East's representations, in particular the characteristic Korean elements found in the latter part of the Chosun Era's women's Gauche and decorative personal ornamentation's moulded features. This has been the foundation for the creation of all eight pieces, and the conclusion is as follows: First of all, the Chosun Dynasty women's Gauche and ornamentation are in close relation to the general flow of society at the time. Gauche and personal ornamentation was not just a matter of beauty consciousness, but is permeated with then-mainstream society's culture, the results of an attempt to display a Korean appearance. Secondly, the desirability of the Chosun women's hair was expressed through Gauche, and through the exceptional brilliance of a diversity of embroidered color tones, braided as though creating Dare. Using this technique in clothing, a new image was created. Thirdly, the outstanding beauty of personal ornamentation's mouldings was used while creating new clothing compositions. The beauty felt through the Chosun women's personal ornamentation can also be felt through today's clothing. More than merely practical, this beauty also brings one closer to Korea and Korean past.

• Journal of Korean Library and Information Science Society
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• v.21
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• pp.363-399
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• 1994

This article aims at bibliographical analysis of the and historical research of Buddhism in the period of king ChungYeul. The analysis is made in the respects of: 1) physical form 2) historical aspect of the Zen Buddhism in the latter period of Koryo Dynasty 3) related persons who corresponded with Mongsan First, this books is consist of 56 records about tripitaka, biography of Mongsan, poets of Zen Buddhism, and abstracts of Buddhist books. Secondly, the new trends of Buddhism in the 13th century was influenced by Mongsan Son(contemplate school, zen). He was corresponded with some political persons and the elite class of Koryo Buddhism. Because of these meetings, LimJae Son were adopted main stream of zen Buddism in Koryo Dynasty by Mongsan and his accompanies. Thirdly, these political groups want to meet Mongsan and his teaching about zen Buddism, but he suggest three questions to the gourp instead of meeting. And he explained 10 kinds of methods to study zen Buddism comparing visited ten persons with ten pinetrees. In the Koryo Dynasty, Buddism was very inportant in history of throughts and social functions. But there had been little research on Mongsan who afford theoretical base on zen Buddism in Chosun Dynasty. On the point of the relation to Koryo and Yuan dynasty in zen Buddism. The is a new and important records that afford some solutions of religious branch and trends in early periods of Chosun Dynasty.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.41 no.5
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• pp.193-203
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• 2003

Magoja is a jacket for men and women. Magoja was worn between the jacket, jogori and the coat durumagi; that is over the jacket and under the coat. In the 19th century, Daewon-kun, who was wearing maqua, was in China and he came back to Korea. So, it was believed that the origin of magoja was from maqua from Qing. But, there were differences between magoja and maqua in their design. Therefore, I researched the origin of magoja and tried to know the design and the method of wearing magoja in the Chosun dynasty. The results are as follows. The design of magoja, especially its collar, was different from Chinese maqua. As analyzed above, it is difficult to regard the origin of magoja as deriving from Daewon-kun's maqua, which he wore when he went to Qing. Magoja-style jacket can be found from many old pictures. The collar of those jacket, whose style was waonsam-git unlike the present-day magoja, is consistent with the collar of sagyusam or baeja. And this kind of git style had existed for a long period of time as already studied in bangryungbangbi. Furthermore, the origin of this kind of jacket dated back to the maeksu of the Sung Dynasty; maek meaning Koguryo, maeksu was understood to indicate the style of the Koguryo jacket of short sleeves for the convenience of horseback riding. Maeksu, which varied in its kind and style, had been used as the equestrian clothes in China and was assumed to be particularly put on widely during the Yuan and Sung Dynasties. Maeksu continued to exist as daegeumeui during the Ming Dynasty but, later called magua, it was worn more widely ding the Qing Dynasty of the Manchus. This kind of maeksu or magua was the jacket which could be put on the coat and this style of wearing it during the Chosun Dynasty could be confirmed by the pictures. Therefore, magoja is not the jacket which was all of sudden derived from Qing's magua but one of traditional Korean clothes of the northern provinces which had existed for a long period of time. And magoja seemed to be put on more widely during the latter part of the Chosun Dynasty because of the influence of Qing's magua.

• (The)Study of the Eastern Classic
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• no.35
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• pp.215-242
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• 2009

19C was a chaotic time of Chosun dynasty, in order to make society stable, the scholas of Chosun wanted to define themselves as a little China on the east", to understand themselves as part of China and somehow they thought it will help for Koreans to understand who they really are. This "Chosun as a little China" idea is their spritual foundation and also the to understand who they are. From 16 C, Chosun had idea of "being a little China, so when Hwaseo talked about this idea, it was not new to the people and scholars in Chosun, however in Hwaseo's theory, the idea was more defined and realistic. In 19 C Chosun dynasty, the chaos caused by absece of fundimental principle was great, the scholars agreed Hwaseo's "Chosun as a little China" theory should be the foundational principle. Therefore, the problem of understanding and communicating about the west has to be reconcidered, because that was what they wanted to have as foundation before the comunication with west. Scholas of Chosun wanted to set their foundation before they often up their country to the west so they needed time to discuss this. In 19 C Japan on the other hand, they faced same chaos that Chosun experienced, however they went totally different way, because Japan unerstood the reallity and accepted western civilization. Specially, the latter period Mito study influenced to make that decision by changing the west from what they have to defeat to what they have to respect and copy. Both Chosun and Japan focused on making thier countries stronger, but Chosun found the answer in focusing on orthodox confucianism and Japan found the answer in making the military stronger. That is why these two countries went totally different ways in the history of 19-20 C North-east Asia.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
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• v.22 no.5
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• pp.528-543
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• 2007

This study is on the characteristics of the food culture through the written folk poetries which were described vividly the life customs peculiar to the Nation and so much that were Korean National customs papers written by Chinese poetry - during the latter part of the Choson period. It is used the way which is studied by the literature after collection, analysis, synthesis the analyzed second material of the latter part of the Choson period's written folk poetries. It is summarized to below five contents of the characteristics of the food culture through the written folk poetries. The first is the various and abundant food culture. The second, that is the food culture of praying blessing and praying a fruitful. The people prayed to be a year of abundance of food stuff and train oneself and have medicine for their health, but there has been repeated seasonably an occult action for being blessing which had settled down to the beginning of the year's customs. The third, it is the food culture of share tender feeling with among the people. The fourth, it is the food culture of business and economy's growth image. The fifth, it is the food culture of an image of economic distress and the trouble between rich and poor.