• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.37-47
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• 1999

In the 17th century, Europe had changed from medieval feudalistic ages into an absolute monarchy taking Catholicism and absolute monarchism together. On the other hand, Holland achieved prosperity in economy, culture, and arts through gradual enlightment of the people by winning independence from Spain, and religious reformation. The culture dress and its ornaments at the time was led by the governing class such as royal families and its aristocracy in Europe, while Holland, united republic country at the time, brought civil costume nationwide wholly by civil class and its effect to other neighboring countries in Europe. In addition, the origin of modern dress and its ornaments dates back to that time. Moreover, civil-looking dutch paintings found its sources in routine daily life and became realistic. With this respect, in this research, we put our purpose of the research in making a better and more understanding of the modern costume and its ornaments and exploring the spirit of human beings by analyzing dutch civil costumes shown in these artistic works. It is very important that this research is rather renovational comparing with prior ones focused on those of ruling classes. As a result of the research, the distinguished parts of the civil costumes appeares as following beauties. First, functional beauty was respected such as natural waist line, peplum, gather of the skirt and sleeve, apron, head towel were some of the examples to those in their costumes and its ornaments. Second, with respect to humanity under rough natural surroundings and long struggle with outside tribes, humanity of costume was brought by optimistic and even free mind to them. The three quater sleeve showed wrist and deep-cut decollete in their dress and ornaments. Third, with respect to simplicity, religious effect on the leading civil class demanding self-abstinence, frugality, and thrift in their way of life resulted in black-tone simple costumes with white collar in their costumes and its ornaments.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.17 no.2 s.81
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• pp.10-18
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• 2005

Silk fabrics mordanted with $Fe^{2+},\;Ni^{2+},\;and\;Cu^{2+}$ were dyed with the aqueous extract of Cassia tora L. seed which was known to include water soluble colorant kaempferol, one of flavonol compounds. Kaempferol can react with free radicals and chelate transition metal ions, which is thought to catalyze processes leading to the appearance of free radicals and have antioxidant activity. In relation to the coordinating and chelating mechanism of the ions with the silk protein and kaempferol, reasonable conclusions should be made on the colorant uptake and the water fastness of the fabric. The amount of the colorant on the fabric was in the order of $Fe^{2+}>Ni^{2+}>Cu^{2+}$. In case of dyeing through coordinaiton bonds between transition metal ions and silk protein and colorants, it was thought that the ions with the smaller secondary hydration shell, the higher preference to the atoms of the ligand coordinated, and the suitable bonding stability for the substitution of primarily hydrated water molecules for colorants led to the higher colorant uptake. The water fastnsess of the fabric was in the order of $Fe^{2+}>Cu^{2+}>Ni^{2+}$. It should be reasonable to choose transition metal ions with weak and strong tendency to the ionic and the coordination bond, respectively, to the carboxylate anion of the silk protein. Although further research needs to be done, the conclusions above may be generally applied to the natural dyeing through the coordination bond mechanism between transition metal ions and colorants and substrates.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.169-183
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• 2004

This study attempts to understand women's underwear culture in the Later Chosun Dynasty, by investigating the kinds and constructions of them, which formed bulky and puffed silhouette of the lower half of the body. In the middle 17th century in Chosun, Confucianism settled down as fundamental idea of society, while whole country achieved considerable economic growth. As a result for upperclass women, female virtues was demanded more than any other period in Chosun. On the other hand, lower-class women including Kisaengs, had more freedom on their clothing behaviors. According to the literature on women's dress institutions and restrictions of the extravagance, the use of kinds of high-quality silk and false hair was criticized, compared to women's clothes in China. From this, one can see the luxury and affluence of women's clothes at that time, which also reflected in luxurious underclothes. Also, the movement of class, by economic development, led to changes in the costumes of middle-to-lower class women, relaxing restrictions on clothes. Underclothes included Bosomband(가슴띠; long sashes for bosom to wrap), Sokjucksam(속적삼), and Sokchogori(속저고리; Korean blouse, worn under the chogori) for upper garment, and Darisokkok(다리속곳; basic underwear like the panty), Soksokkot(속속곳; underwear paji to be wide of hem), Sokpaji(속바지;trouser front and back opening), Tansokkok(단속곳; large size underwear like Soksokkot), Noronpaji(너른바지; paji like the skirt or paji bulky than tansokkot,), Mujigi무지기; tiered skirt for underwear), and Daeshumchi'ma(대슘치마; Korean underskirt, shape hem as a pad into form) for lower clothes.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.6
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• pp.926-933
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• 2011

The purpose of this research was to develop a smart wear equipped with wearable technologies for women in the age of 50's and 60's and confirm its acceptability. For this, we constructed a casual jacket that has the integration of heating and lighting function, and evaluated the user's satisfaction. The size of the heating device attached at the back of the jacket was 300 mm in width and 120 mm in length and the size of the one attached at the front abdomen was 180 mm in width and 120 mm in length. The power supplier was the unification of the battery and controller which have been waterproofed. The lighting device connected with LED was 26mm in width, 20 mm in length and 1.5 mm in thickness. It has been designed in a waterproofed rectangular shape and was attachable to the jacket. The satisfaction survey of a smart jacket has been conducted with three standards, which were convenience, appearance and practicality. Free physical movement among the standard of convenience had very high scores with the average of 4.7 on a five point-scale. The acceptability of the jacket was 4.6, which proved that it didn't have unique feelings compared to ordinary ones. The evaluation score of the appearance of the jacket was 4.5. Especially inside finishing of the jacket received the highest scores from all ages. According to the evaluation of practicality, there has been no change in the appearance of the jacket and the function of heating device after laundry.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.17-26
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• 2019

This research aims to obtain useful data on the development of compression garment products with high-stretch knitted materials. Using nylon SCY, four specimens were knitted. Then, appearance (width, length, weight, thickness), stretch property (stretch, recovery) and clothing pressure were measured and their interrelation was analyzed. In the comparison of appearance features, yarn floating caused shrinkage in both course and wale directions of the specimens. Yarn overlapping by tucking caused a release in the course direction and shrinkage in the wale direction. Also, structural change was affected by the weight and thickness change of the knitted fabric. In the analysis of fabric stretch, yarn floating reduced the extension in course direction and increased that in wale direction of the knitted fabric. However, yarn overlapping reduced the elongation in both directions. In the analysis of recovery, yarn floating and overlapping raised fabric recovery in both directions, and tuck structure was superior to float in recovery. In the analysis of clothing pressure, 'Plain-Float' structured fabrics showed a higher clothing pressure than 'Plain' and the clothing pressure value of 'Plain-Tuck' was lower than that of 'Plain'. As for the correlation between fabric appearance, stretch property, and clothing pressure, the appearance change in course direction had a major influence on the clothing pressure. The shrinkage of appearance led to a decrease in stretch and an increase in clothing pressure.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.3
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• pp.357-370
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• 2013

The Republican Period of China (1912 to 1949) was when the archetypes of thought (constituting contemporary China) engaged in heated rivalry and were directly influenced by Korea through frequent exchanges. This study analyzes the characteristic of Chinese women's aesthetics towards the human body with a focus on visual materials (such as articles and illustrations concerning hairstyle, makeup, skincare, fashion, and gymnastics) featured in the Chinese women magazines of Fun$\ddot{u}$zazhi (婦女雜誌) and Linglong (玲瓏). This study analyzes these magazines and compares them with Korean counterparts. The movement of the developed and controlled human body was a common characteristic of this period; however, compared to the Chinese, the Japanese colonial period of Korea resulted in an introspective self-examination through excessively objectified eyes. Dress and adornment as the symbol of a new civilization acted as the most remarkable signifier. The overlapping of a western image with a Japanese image led to more resistance in Korea. The criterion for the value of a women's external appearance (that traditionally dualized womanly virtues) collapsed and dress was accepted as an expression of individuality instead of as a social class. The human body was traditionally recognized as a microcosm of the universe that dominated the natural principle of Yin-Yang and the Five Elements. However, the ideal human body was postulated and the aesthetic consciousness of the body changed into an imaginary view of the human body that proceeded to keep the body fit for and gave birth to the concept of supplementing the deficiency of the beauty of the human body with dress and makeup.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.120-134
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• 2015

This study aimed to determine the physical properties of silk and nylon fabrics that are treated with persimmon juice in accordance with irradiation time of ultraviolet spectrum. Persimmon juice dyeing has the advantage of using the tannin component of the persimmon. Tannin plays an important role in inhibiting photodegradation of fibers or polymers. Among fibrous materials, silk and nylon are prone to deterioration by light. Hence, this study aimed to reduce these weaknesses of silk and nylon by applying persimmon juice treatment. We accordingly carried out investigation and experiments on ultraviolet irradiation, and physical characteristics of treated fabrics. The persimmon juice treatment process led to increased weight and thickness. In addition, the air permeability of silk fabric was increased, as compared to the control specimen; whereas, that of nylon fabric was decreased. Both drape stiffness and flex stiffness of silk and nylon tended to be high in textiles processed with persimmon juice treatment, as compared to the control textile. Peak load and elongation at peak load of untreated samples clearly decreased in both silk and nylon fabrics with the increase of ultraviolet irradiation time, while those of persimmon juice treated samples increased. Furthermore, ultraviolet blocking ratio measurement indicated that the fabric specimens treated with persimmon juice blocked U.V. spectrum better than the control specimen.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.5
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• pp.195-215
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• 2010

The emergence of the luxury market has led numerous academic researchers, as well as marketers in the luxury market, to pay attention to both identifying luxury brand features and measuring perceptions toward luxury brands. Especially, Korea is a significant emerging market for luxury goods. Young consumers and male consumers are getting into the luxury market fast and these new segments will keep increasing. There are only a few studies related to distinctive definitions of luxury brands and measurement development for the Korean market. However, there are some limitations in these previous studies in that they did not capture the nature of luxury due to their inappropriate of subjects and approach in data collection and to lack of a perspective of Korean specific features. Thus, the purpose of this research is to identify Korean consumers' perceptions toward luxury products and, ultimately, to develop a reliable and valid measurement items for the luxury products' features for the Korean market. Defining the three high constructs(functional, emotional, and symbolic aspects) as a key needs and benefits on luxury brands, we looked at four stages of development for generating and deducting items by luxury industry experts and luxury consumers, as well as for testing measures by 20th~60th consumers. As a result, this study confirmed that luxury brands consists of high quality, high price, unique design, and luxury store; the emotional aspect construct combines craftsmanship, VIP service, and high social status; and the symbolic construct includes brand heritage and being a well-known brand. Finally, 22 measurement items (Measures of Luxury Brand for Korea: LBK) were developed for the conceptual features for luxury brands from a Korean perspective. This study provided understanding of Korean consumers' perceptions toward luxury brands from an academic perspective. For the managerial implication of this study, LBK can be utilized to judge both luxury brands and mass brands, to diagnose current a brand's luxuriousness, from the customer's point-of-view, and, finally, to measure a Key Performance Index (KPI) of luxury brand companies.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.1-13
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• 2014

This study examines research trends in the dissertations and journal articles on stage costume so as to provide basic information on directions for future studies. The data was collected from the theses of domestic journals of the Korean Studies Information (KSI) which were published until December, 2012 and retrieved by a keyword related to the "design of stage costume", "costume for performing art", and etc. Theses and articles for the analyses were a total of 200 published. Reviewing the theses by dividing the times into 8 Chronicles of 5 years in each term. The findings of the study are as follows: According to the chronological analysis, there has been a steady increase in the rates of the musical, ballet, dance, and circus costume and cutting edged technology such as LED has been utilized in the performing art, currently. The real production and making up of the costumes have been increasing as well by replacing of illustration and rendering of the costumes. In the recent costume of the performing arts show the tends of the visual effects and up-sizing, comprehensiveness and fusion. From the analysis of the background of the work, those were confirmed that the most common historical period was modern period, and places were France, England, and Egypt. In regard to research themes and methods, many of research papers utilized content analysis method, character analysis method as research methods. The most popular presentation of the costume designs was "rendering", "costumes schedule" and "illustration". However, development and explanation of the patterns was insufficient and constructions methods and real works(costumes) were usually omitted in the articles.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.100-108
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• 2012

Traffic police officers are faced with many dangerous accidents due to outside duties on roads. Yet, researches on traffic officers' uniforms have mainly been focused on design aspects rather than functional aspects. This study therefore aims to figure out traffic officers' perceived needs for their uniforms and to offer some basic guidelines in manufacturing versatile safety vests for wearers. The study used a documentary survey replied by 236 traffic officers. The results of the study are as follows: 1. There are 10 different types of vests currently used by traffic officers. Vests are employed for purposes such as carrying police equipments, enabling officers to be noticeable in dark, protecting the body, etc. 2. Officers wear these vests which were officially designated by law. Among them, fluorescence versatile safety vests were most frequently worn by officers. 3. Officers who wore ready-made vests of which size was already determined, tended to perceive that the vests were relatively larger than their own size. 4. In terms of the functions of the vests, officers expressed needs for the improvement of the LED and retro-reflection tape along with the addition of thermal function to existing vests. The improvement of the form and functions of versatile safety vests which reflect needs of the users will boost the dignity and the sense of duty of the traffic police officers.