• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.32-43
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• 2011

This study investigate the transition about Japanese national costume kimono. The prototype of the present kimono is a kosode. The origin of kosode dates back to the mid-Heian period, when this type of kimono served as the everyday wear of commoners and an undergarment for court nobles, both men and women. In the Muromachi period, particularly after the Onin war, the kosode began to be by people of all classes. In the Muromachi period, kosode consisted mainly of woven textiles. In the Momoyama period, kosode became very elaborate, employing such various techniques as tie-dyeing, embroidery, metallic leaf(surihaku) and free-hand painting. These were further combined resulting in such techniques as tsujigahana dyeing and nuihaku, which are now considered to epitomize Momoyama-period textile design. A category of kosode of the early Edo period, known as Keicho kosode, is fashioned mainly from black, white, or red figured satin(rinzu), or from figured satin segmented in these three colors. Books of kosode designs began to be published in the Kambun era, when the merchant class was becoming economically powerful, kosode began to reflect its taste. During its final stage of development in the late 17th and early 18th centuries, yuzen dyeing achieved wide acceptance. From the late 18th century toward the early 19th century, kosode worn by the merchant class underwent drastic changes, while those worn by the samurai class changed little. In the after the late 18th century, clear differences in design and decorative methods appeared between the kosode worn by rich merchants and those worn by middle and lower class merchants.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.62-68
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• 1999

The study has examined about the origin and change of traditional Japanese dress "Kosode" and classified it according to its ages and also classified its patterns which appeared on the Kosode by its kinds, and divide the patterns with constituent method and expressional method and so, studied and analyzed them with type of patterns according to the change of the times. The result of research were as follows: 1. Subject of patterns that appeared on the Kosode was used with mainly plant pattern, animals pattern, pictorial pattern, artificial pattern, and abstract patterns. 2. Expressional method of this patterns was mostly expressed simply with tie dyeing in ancient times, but it changed complex its expressional method and diversely due to the development of common's culture as time goes on. 3. For the arrangement of its pattern were arranged regularly mostly make demarcate and though they are as if seemed dispersed, but a characteristic that can find regulations in it. 4. Transition of patterns that appeared on the Kosode it developed at the beginning of ancient syouboon, Katasuso pattern and Katamigaori patterns at the samurai's society in the medieval society and developed to Koicho kosode and Kambun kosode in modern times.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.43
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• pp.15-30
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• 1999

The Kosode(小袖) which is a traditional Japanese outfit with a narrower sleeve than the Kimono was worn under the court dress. Korean who first immigrated to Japan wore the Po(袍: the Korean clothes of the time) and introduced the outfit to the japanese people who adopted and integrated it into their daily wear. This outfit was labelled the Kosode(小袖) during the 13th century. The Kosode(小袖) eventually developed throughout centuries into today's Kimono. 기본포(基本袍). Kibonpo(Traditional Korean Basic Outfit), 袍형기본포. Mekibonpo(Traditional korean Outfit with Round Sleeves) 통수포 Tongsupo(Outfit with Narrow Sleeves) 고소데(小袖).Kosode(Traditional Japanese Outifit with narrow Sleeves) 후리소데(振袖). Furisode (Traditional Japanese Outfit with fluttering Sleeves)

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.4
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• pp.76-97
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to review the influence of Ukiyo-e on the design of European Paintings of the $19^{th}$ century and the expression of the design of Kosode design in Edo-era. We collected data from the actual study of visiting Museums and other theories and visual materials through literature review. Then, we analyzed the data. The result came out that Ukiyo-e, which is the genre painting of Edo-era, provided the new vision and the new way of expression to the European Paintings of the $19^{th}$ century. In the same way, the result also indicated that Ukiyo-e similarly influenced on the design of Kosode. For example, the study showed that the patterns of Kosode, such as flower, bridge, fun, wave, Lotus flower, stripe, oval, plaid, were used in the works of European artists in the $19^{th}$ century. The Ukiyo-e styles include Kan Bun style, Dan-Gawari style, Back facing style, Two-Section Segmentation style, and Folding screen style, with the identity of Japan and Japanese unique nature and landscapes. Thus, this study proved the design of Kosode to be the frontier of both European and Japanese arts, by examining Ukioyo-e's plastic characteristics, its composition & arrangements, and its subjects & objects which were samely revealed in Kosode design and European Art in nineteenth century.

• KOMUNHWA
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• no.62
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• pp.87-112
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to know about history and significance of Kosode elementally. Kosode the original form of Kimono, and it was dressed by the upper class in the Heian Period$(794\~857)$. Everyone could wear Kosode after the Onin's wa

• 한국생활과학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2008.05a
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• pp.151-152
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• 2008

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.95-105
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• 2015

This study investigated the color culture in the Japanese Medieval Age. The Japanese Medieval Age included the Kamakura period (1180-1333) and Muromachi period (1336-1573), and the leading group transitioned from the Kuge families to the Buke families. The taboos about colors from ancient times became nominal, and forbidden colors, such as purple, celadon, and red, became the colors of the samurai, leading to beautiful soldier gears that were unparalleled in history. In the Kamakura period, colors that conveyed a strong impression were created and preferred with the combination of a samurai's reasonable spirit and zen thoughts. The period was also called "the era of hari", and cross dyeing based on basic colors such as suou (red), ai (blue), and kuchinasi (yellow) was popular. In both the Kamakura and Muromachi periods, conspicuous and strong colors were sought for costumes, and embroidery was used with gold leaf, silver leaf, gold threads, silver threads, and background color. The colors of costume preferred by Buke men in the period included green, blue, and brown. In the characteristics of the kosode, the sugan and hitadare were used for men's formal dress, while kosode was used for the grooming of the working class. In these periods, additionally, the working class began to be socially engaged in actively wearing the one-layer kosode, which became popular, and the characteristics of the Japanese Medieval Age, during which functionality and practicality was valued, were also reflected in the dressing.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.143-151
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• 2009

Ukiyo-e is the representative genre-painting of Japan, dominant during the 17th century Edo-Period (1503-1867). Ukiyo-e is mainly focused on expressing the lives of geishas, sumo wrestlers, and kabuki characters, who were the center of the Japanese amusement culture, and gained popular acceptance in Europe when it was first introduced in the late 19th century in the form of Japonism, having significant influence and impact on the impressionist artists of the time and on the design of western cloths. In this papers, we will be primarily conducting a historical study on the development of the Ukiyo-e, a representative genre-painting of Japan, and conduct a in-depth analysis of pattern expressed in the Kosode of women, represented through various different works of art. In order to conduct a thorough analysis of pattern expressed in Ukiyo-e, we collected over 255 pieces of materials from existing foreign paintings as well as museums in the National Museum of Tokyo, Edo Museum, and the Harajuku Museum of Ukiyo-e. This papers seeks to analyze and classify patterns expressed in the works of Ukiyo-e and research the characteristics express in the pattern to contribute to the development of fabrics in the modern fashion design industry.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.177-188
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to appreciate Japanese clothing and ornament of the men's costume that showed a unique style of Japan as well as a mixture of foreign civilization in Edo period. The data related clothing, ornament and art of Japan were collected from books and slide films that had been studied in Japan, because the data studied in Korea were not enough. The results were as follows: First characteristic is. the dualism. The dualism was shown in the social class, estheticism and originality. In terms of the social class, the feudalism remained through their heraldry or mark of organization even though it was broken down. In terms of estheticism, it showed the coexistence of gorgeousness and plainness. In terms of the originality, it showed the coexistence of original Kosode and Kappa under the influence of Southern barbarians' mode. Second characteristic is the utility. $Ch{\check{o}}nin$ was needed to the functional clothing because of Its social position that had much activity. Therefore, the utility was shown in a simple silhouette of Haori and Hanten and in its way of wearing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.7 s.106
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• pp.79-95
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• 2006

The relationships between costumes and literature are the remarkable characteristics in the history of Japanese costumes. Among them, the literary designs which have literary subject matters seem unique to Japan. In Japan, the history of the literary design traces far back and its examples are abundant in various literatures in the Heian era. It is particularly notable that the literary designs take a relatively large part of Kosode pattern in the pre-modern period, the Edo era, which can be cleary seen in Kosodehinagata-bon, a collection of Kosode pattern of those era, in addition to various sources of extant relics or paintings. These literary designs lie the tradition of the literary lyricism as aesthetic sense in the japanese costume history. The literary lyricism means the lyrical mood evoked by literature. The purpose of this study is to examine how the literary lyricism which has supported those literary designs was formed and developed. The literary designs on costumes related with the relationships between literature and formative art, for example painting. Those typical example, which started in the literature tournament, utaawase, was devised for matching up with the character of the assembly. They continued as a sort of the intellectual amusements. In the pre-modern period, the literary designs developed In relation to not only subject matters but those expression. Moreover, it shows the extremely typical example that a series of Kosodehiinagata-bons, consisted solely of literary designs, was enjoyed as a device of reading materials like poem anthology.