Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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2001.08a
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pp.59-61
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2001
Along with the development of culture, dress of the Chinese people has also evolved over the last several thousand years, transcending its original functions of covering and protecting the body. As a result it has risen to become a complicated system of symbols full of intricate meanings. According to de Saussure's theory of "signs," signs are represented by the elements signified (meaning) (referent) and signifiant (sound) (exponent). "Phoenix crowns" were the headpieces most highly esteemed by women in ancient China. Actually, the name "phoenix crown" points to the fact that the headpiece is adorned with a phoenix design. The history and symbolism of the phoenix crown's use as a headpiece in Chinese weddings spans 1200 years in all, originating in the Qin Dynasty (241-210 BC) as a phoenix hairpin, evolving into the phoenix crown during the Song Dynasty (960-1276 AD), and continuing through the Ming and Qing Dynasties (1644-1911 AD), and the modem republic. It is not simply an ornamental headpiece, but instead represents the thousands of years or rich inner meaning the Chinese attribute to "dragons" and "phoenixes." This paper depicts the glorious past of phoenix crowns, using the metaphor and metonymy theories of semiology and semantics, and through the cross-verification of literature research archeological findings and reports, and old Chinese wedding photographs, in order to examine the inherent meanings of the phoenix crown in the Chinese culture.nings of the phoenix crown in the Chinese culture.
The purpose of this study is to extract 'the Rite of Passage'from a Korean novel, 'HON-BUL', and to analysis intrinsic meanings and function of the symbols, their personal meanings and social meanings from it. A pragmatical method was used for the analysis of this research. The results were as followings : The meaning of the Rite of Passage and the Costumes had mainly incantatory characters ; son-wish, wealth, amicable relations between a husband and a wife, long life, and perpetual thought. But the amount of grasping of meaning was thought to be depended on the reading ability of readers. Since the Wedding Ceremony and the Funeral Ceremony were described a lot of times in the novel, it was known that they were regarded as very important Rite of Passage in the whole life. The TEXT which were cited from the novel showed that the Rite of Passage was traditionally described as the Birth Ceremony, the Wedding Ceremony (includes the Puberty Ceremony), and the Funeral Ceremony. The analysis of meaning in a novel had an important roll to understand CULTURE, SOCIAL LIFE, and TIMES in a written novel. Therefore a novel is very valuable to analyze them as the DISCOURSE and the TEXT.
As all other cultures do, in the background of color of costume, view of life or spirit are contained in the nature or environment that the people lived in are applied. Marring is the ceremony to be socially recognized that both of sexes are unified, assist ancestor and bear future generation. Meaning and symbolism of color are appeared in beauty and organic composition of Lee dynasty. This paper tried to dear up five colors are dean, beautiful and philosophical colors rather than awkward composition of colors through surveying character of five colors appeared in Korean traditional wedding dress that has been succeeded in present age. This paper compared Korean traditional wedding dress and "Dan-chung" of Korea, Japan and China and surveyed theoretical background of Korean traditional color to find character of color appeared in Korean traditional wedding dress. As a result, Korean traditional color is meaningful symbolic color, its origin starts in yin-yang and the live elements of the Oriental cosmogony and it is related with Taoism of Confucianism and color of "Dan-chung." Five colors of yin-yang means everything under the sun and il is the color achieving beauty of balance due to correlation when it is linked to over one color. Further, it contains nature worship and human dignity, prays happiness and gives the significance of "Buksa", meaning of expelling an evil spirit. Formative beauty praying that all creatures are harmonized while human is happy and escapes from uncertainty is the beauty pursuing mental satisfaction as well as visual satisfaction. In future, the creational and characteristic designs that can appeal to world are required through right understanding and study of the beauty of traditional culture beauty of traditional culture
The purpose of this study is to determine aesthetical characteristics of the Korean traditional wedding dress for women by analyzing such dresses'aesthetical senses. For the purpose, the study showed four types of the dress, jukyee, whalot, weonsam and private weonsam and their photographed stimuli to subjects and then obtained data using the seven scale measures of meaning differentiation consisting of 25 pairs of adjective words. Results of the study are described as follows; Aesthetical senses shown in the Korean traditional dressing dress for women included six factors in total, among which attractiveness was found as the main factor, followed by chastity. For the four types of the dress, whalot adpated revelation as its main factor while the remaining three types, or jukyee, weonsam and private weonsam were found having dignity as their main factors. Adjective words which largely accounted for aesthetical senses included uncomfortable, warn, chaste, intellectual, bright, unique, regular, luxurious, classical, ornamental and beautiful suggesting that the Korean traditional wedding dress for women is somewhat unfunctional, but high in attractiveness and aesthetic beauty and has a better classical harmonization of dignity and revelation. Aesthetical senses were most different according to nationality(Korean and Japan) when they were analyzed in terms of nationality, gender and whether of specialization or non-specialization. Japanese people had unique and interesting senses while Korean people, chaste, calm and delicate aesthetical senses. According to gender, men revealed free senses and women, classical ones. According whether of specialization or non-specialization those who specialized in a related field had more unique, straight, regular, luxurious and interesting aesthetical senses that those who did not specialize.
The purpose of this study is to identify trends in modern Korean clothing design through investigation and analysis of the types and respective characteristics of silhouettes, colors, materials, patterns, and decorations present. To this end, research methods such as literature research and content analysis through case study research were used. The results of the wedding magazine data analysis were largely classified by design element and based on such, the conclusions are as follows. First, in the analysis of silhouettes, the appearance rate of traditional items decreased over the selected period and that of modified items increased. Second, among the same colors, adjacent colors, proximity complementary colors, contrast, and other harmonies, adjacent color harmonies showed the highest rate of appearance. Third, the cases where the same materials were used for the top and bottom elements showed a similar appearance rate as those where different materials were used. It was also concluded that traditional materials are being replaced by modern materials. Fourth, regarding the arrangement of patterns, the appearance rate of the absence of patterns gradually increases. Fifth, there were more case of decorations than those of none. This study made it possible to grasp the changes in trends of modern Korean clothing from 2011 to 2020 and provide basic data for the development of the Korean clothing market industry.
The purpose of this study was to investigate the periodical change of Korean children's clothing from 1960 to 2000. As valuable historical data, 794 children's clothing in wedding pictures in these periods were collected for this study. Research method was content analysis and frequency, cross table analysis, and ${\chi}^2$ test were conducted for data analysis. The results of this study were as follows. The children's clothing in 1960s had very humdrum and limited design and plain pattern. And most of children in this period wore Western clothes of casual style. In 1970s, children's clothing was enriched in terms of design, pattern, color and ornament. However, clothing design for children was not developed yet, so form of children's clothing in this period was showed as duplication of adult clothing design. In 1980s, The children's clothing was developed with enhancement of the level of living. Various style and sophisticated design were appeared and design and size system for children were developed. With increasement of social interest of leisure and sports, casual style was especially popular in this period for both of children and adult in this period. In 1990, rapid decrease of birth rate resulted in parents' excessive interest and investment for their children. In this effects, children's clothing in 1990s had luxury, various, and individual characteristics.
The purpose of this study was to survey public preferences for dining space image styles depending on the types of passage rites in Korea and to determine potential differences in public preferences for dining space image styles depending on the types of passage rites in terms of various general characteristics such as gender, age, family type, and preference for the image and color styles of the dining space. As a result, this study determined the following: According to a public preference survey of dining space image styles depending on the type of passage rites, our respondents showed the highest preference for casual images (27.1%) at a party for a 100-day-old baby. Additionally, our respondents showed the highest preference for casual images (27.4%) when celebrating a baby's first birthday but showed the highest preference for romantic images (35.8%) when celebrating a baby girl's first birthday. Our respondents showed the highest preference for casual images (21.4%) for graduation ceremonies. Our respondents showed the highest preference for classic images (21.7%) at coming-of-age ceremonies for new adult men, but also showed highest preference for elegant images (26.2%) at coming-of-age ceremonies for new adult women. Moreover, the respondents showed highest preference for classic images (41.0%) at traditional wedding ceremonies but elegant images (24.1%) at modern wedding ceremonies. In contrast, the respondents showed highest preference for classic images (31.3%) for a 60th birthday party. The highest preference for classic images (28.9%) was found for a diamond wedding ceremony. Respondents showed highest preference for classic images (30.4%) for a funeral ceremony Finally, our respondents showed highest preference for classic images (32.5%) at memorial services (religious ceremonies).
Variety and individuality are characteristic of consumer in modern society. For the necessity of new designed men's formal suit is on the rise with advance of party culture and change of wedding style. In addition to growing numbers of Korean grooms are getting more interested in make themselves well-groomed on the wedding ceremony. The purpose of this study is to develop the men's formal suit pattern for right fit and better style for Korean grooms. In order to find out how to modify their fit, comparison among the existing patterns was necessary. In this study we proposed new patterns of men's formal suit, a morning coat, a tail coat, tuxedoes, director's suit, three-peaces suit, navy blazer. Considering the results of this study, developed patterns were altered to fit better and to smarter. They were well graded in waistline position, shoulder shape, back princess line shape. Also they were best to move around sleeve and bodice. And the developed patterns were altered to make armhole narrower to make bodice length shorter, to make bodice slimmer. The researcher's pattern's were made up into garments using wool 100%, silk 100%. According to verify the improvements and grade better in both appearance and comport, it will be to take the lead men's formal dress culture and expand the base of popular consume for men's formal wear.
As a part of study examining Korean costume remaining in Yanbian China, this study explored changes in ceremonial clothing for marriage worn by Korean(Chosun race) in Yanbian China. About one hundred years ago, Koreans moved to Yanbian China and had worn traditional clothing for marriage ceremony until before 1940. Data were collected by true interview and field observation while staying in that area. Samo and Dalyung for bridegrooms, Wonsam and Jockdoory for bridegrooms, wonsam and Jockdoory for brides were usual costume for wedding ceremony, however, for couples in inferior conditions of life, Bazy and Jeogory for bridegrooms, yellow Jeogory and red Chima for brides were accepted for ceremonial costume. As western culture came to this area in about 1940, bridegrooms wore western style suit, while brides dress in white Chima, Jeogory and Neowool. To date, Korean brides have worn traditional Chima and Jeogory for marriage ceremony though slight change has occurred in clothing material and in the forms of Chima, Geogory and Neowool. As the pratice reflected the fact that Korean in Yanbian China as established and sustained traditional China as established and sustained traditional costume and Korean identity even in hush socio-cultural environment.
In this study, we attempted to elucidate the cultural characteristics of Korean food based on a traditional understanding on the Korean novel. To achieve this, food characteristics related to 'rites of passage' were analyzed in the representative Korean literary work "Hon-bool", which describes the life of a first-son's wife every three generations in the going to ruin but historic 'Lee's family of Maean district' family and the life of the common 'Geomeong-gul' people who lived with farming on the Lee's land at Namwon of Junbook province in the 1930~1940s, during the Japanese Colonial rule. Every nation possesses rites of passage at important points in life, such as at birth, age of majority, wedding and death. Korean culture, in particular, has several memorial rites relating to birth, death and passage into the afterlife in which special foods are prepared. In this manner, ceremonial foods represent the Korean peoples' traditional vision of the universe and life. The book "Hon-bool" describes these traditions. Especially, the book describes the table-settings related to the main character's childbirth, first birthday, wedding and death. Therefore "Hon-bool" represents a living history of Korean traditional food and the work of storytelling through the traditional understanding is expected that perform an important role in making of cultural contents of Korean foods.
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