• Title/Summary/Keyword: Korean trouser

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A STUDY ON THE COSTUME REPRESENTED IN CLAY FIGURES HWANGSUNG-DONG BURIAL TOMB (경주황성동고분출토(慶州隍城洞古墳出土) 토용(土俑)의 복식사적의미(服飾史的意味))

  • Koo, In-Sook
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.13
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    • pp.21-37
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    • 1989
  • In May 1987, 11 clay icons and other stone products were excavated in an abandoned ancient tomb which was located in 541-1 Hwangsung-dong, Kyungju. 6 clay figures of them were depicted realistically man's features and postures, costume at that time that they gave a lot of significance to the fields of Korean Costume's Academic Society. The main purpose of this thesis is to study the background of costume history when it was made and its formal characteristics with the study of those 6 clay figures. Shilla accepted the customs and attires of Sui and T'ang by means of frequent in coming and out going Chinese envoy as well as Shilla's envoy, monks, hostages, and students in China. From that period, the diversity of Shilla's costume began to develop by introducing Tang's style into Shilla's costume. Crested hat of men's clothing of the clay figures in Hwangsung- Dong is Bokdu Men's figure II wore Bokdu which Hugak is attached to Byunhyung. The garment is a Po and it is a tight sleeve and silhouette's Banryungpo. The horizontal line of hemline of men's figure 1 can be presumed by expression of Ran though it is not as accurate as the clay figues in Yongg-ang-Dong. As for torso part 1, it can not be known the style of the crested hat because the head part was damaged, but it were shoes, belt and common sleeve, Banryungpo on tight sleeve shirt and tight trouser. The hair style of the women's clothing in Hwangsung-dong clay figure is Bukkye peculiar to Korea. The costume was slim silhouette that people wore tight sleeve and short blouse and long skirt and belted on their bosom which dresses style was in vogue from late Sui dynasty to the early years of the Tang period. The silh ouette of slim silhouette's high waist which can be seen in the women's dresses is mainly worn by Chinese and affected Shilla's costume. Therefore the dresses style of the clay figures in Hwagsung-Dong, it is considered it is a dresses style of tight sleeves and slim silhouette together with the adaptation and abolition of foreign elements on the basis of Shilla's own elements like Bukkye hair style and tight sleeve and silhouette. The style of Yonggang-Dong's clay figures expresses spherical gei and common sleeve, loose silhouette of flourishing Tang's costumes planly whereas the style of Hwangsung-Dong's clay costumes expresses refined spirit of the Shilla(Shillaism) though it is extremly simple.

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사각형강목의 끝자루를 이용한 트롤어구의 어획선택성 연구 ( 2 ) - 다이아몬드형강목과 사각형강목의 선택성비교 - ( Studies on the Selectivity of the Trawl Net With the Square Mesh Cod-End ( 2 ) - Comparison of Diamond and Square Mesh Cod-End - )

  • Kim, Sam-Kon;Lee, Ju-Hee;Park , Jeong-Sik
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Fisheries and Ocean Technology
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    • v.30 no.3
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    • pp.172-181
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    • 1994
  • The mesh selectivity of diamond and suare mesh cod-ends at the Southern Korean Sea and the East China Sea were compared for Pampus argenteus, Trachurus japonicus, Trichiurus lepturus. Selection trials were carried out using diamond and square mesh cod-end by trouser type cod-end with cover net. of which the mesh cod-end has four types : A(51.2mm), B(70.2mm), C(77.6mm), D(88.0mm). Selection curves and selection parameters were calculated using a logistic model. The results obained are summarized as follows : 1. Harvest fish : In B. C and D type selection range and fifty percent selection length of the square mesh were about 21mm, 11mm : 12mm, 18mm and 34mm, 5mm higher than those of the diamond mesh, respectively. Selection factor of master curve for the diamond mesh was 1.54 and for the square mesh was 1.68. The optimum mesh size for the diamond mesh was 97.4mm and for the square mesh was 89.3mm, the difference was 8.1mm. 2. Horse mackerel : In A type, selection range was nearly the same for the diamond and the square mesh, but fifty percent selection length of the square mesh was 43mm higher than the diamond mesh. In B. C and D type, selection range and fifty percent selection length of the square mesh were about 6mm, 3mm : 24mm, 21mm and 11mm, 42mm higher than those of the diamond mesh, respectively. Selection factor of master curve for the diamond mesh was 2.37, for the square mesh was 2.77. The optimum mesh size for the diamond mesh was 78.1mm and for the square mesh was 66.8mm, the difference was 11.3mm. 3. Hair tail : In A, B and C type, selection range of the square mesh was about 34mm, 8mm, 60mm higher than those of the diamond mesh. Fifty percent selection length for the diamond mesh was about 5mm, 7mm, 8mm higher than that of the square mesh. Selection factor of master curve for the diamond mesh was 3.11, for the square mesh was 3.48. The optimum mesh size for the diamond mesh was 64.3mm and for the square mesh was 57.5mm, the difference was 6.8mm.

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사각형강목의 끝자루를 이용한 트롤어구의 어획선택성 연구 ( I ) - 사각형강목의 어획선택성 - ( Studies on the Selectivity of the Trawl Net With the Square Mesh Cod-End ( 1 ) - Selectivity of the Square Mesh Cod-End - )

  • Lee, Ju-Hee;Kim, Sam-Kon;Kim, Jin-Kun
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Fisheries and Ocean Technology
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    • v.30 no.3
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    • pp.161-171
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    • 1994
  • Mesh selection analysis for the trawl net were carried out at the Southern Korean Sea and the East China Sea during the 1992-1994 years by the training ship Seabada of the National Fisheries University of Pusan, using A type (51.2mm), B type (70.2mm), C type (77.6mm), D type (88.0mm) square mesh cod-ends. The fishing trials were made using bottom trawl of the trouser type cod-end with cover net. Selection curves and selection parameters were calculated by a logistic model for Sphyraena pinguis, Pampus argenteus, Trachurus japonicus, Pagrus major, Callanthias japonicus, Trichiurus lepturus. The results obtained are summarized as follows: 1. Red barracuda : Selection range and fifty percent selection length in the A type was 115.8mm, 292.8mm, respectively. 2. Harvest fish : Each selection range and fifty percent selection length in the B. C. and D type was 37.7mm, 113.8mm : 40.1mm, 131.7mm and 64.8mm, 148.6mm, respectively. Selection parameters of master curve were : slope, 3.81 : intercept, -6.4. Optimum mesh size was 89.3mm. 3. Horse mackerel : Each selection range and fifty percent selection length in the A, B, C and D type was 43.0mm, 148.3mm : 60.7mm, 183.2mm, 214.5mm and 91.4mm, 254.9mm, respectively. Selection parameters of master curve were : slope 2.30 : intercept, -6.4. Optimum mesh size was 66.8mm. 4. Red seabrem : Selection range and fifty percent selection length in the D type was 42.7mm, 203.4mm, respectively. 5. Yellowsail red bass : Selection range and fifty percent selection length in the A type was 84.0mm, 110.6mm, respectively. 6. Hair tail : Each selection range and fifty percent selection length in the A, B and C type was 59.7mm, 176.0mm : 100.9mm, 250.7mm and 178.6mm, 307.0mm, respectively. Selection parameters of master curve were : slope, 1.54 : intercept, -5.4. Optimum mesh size was 57.5mm.

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A Study on the Selectivity of the Trawl Net for the Demersal Fishes in the East China Sea - 2 (동지나해 저서 어자원에 대한 트롤어구의 어획선택성에 관한 연구 - 2)

  • Kim, Sam-Gon;Lee, Ju-Hee;Kim, Jin-Gun
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Fisheries and Ocean Technology
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    • v.28 no.4
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    • pp.371-379
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    • 1992
  • In order to analyse the mesh selectivity for the trawl net, the fishing experiment was carried out by the training ship Saebada in the southern Korea Sea and the East China Sea from June 1991 to August 1992. The trawl net used in experiment has the trouser type of cod-end with cover net, and the mesh selectivity was examined for the five kinds of the opening mesh size in its cod-end part. The selection curves and the selection parameters were calculated by using a logistic function, S=1/(1+exp super(-(aL+b))), and in this case, a and b are the selection parameters and L is the body length of the target species of fishes. In this report, the four species of aquatic animals were analysed because the catch data were enough to calculate normally the selection curves and the selection parameters, and the results obtained are summarized as follows: 1. Trachurus japonicus; Selection parameters a and b in each cases of the opening mesh size of 51.2mm, 70.2mm, 77.6mm, 88.0mm and 111.3mm were respectively 0.5050 and -5.4283, 0.3018 and -4.9590, 0.3816 and -7.3659, 0.2695 and -5.7958, 0.2170 and -5.1226. 2. Photololigo edulis ; Selection Parameters a and b in each cases of the former mesh sizes were respectively 0.7394 and -6.1433, 0.3389 and -4.2366, 0.3286 and -5.1002, 0.2543 and -5.0049, 0.1795 and -4.8040. 3. Trichirus lepturus; Selection curves in the opening mesh size of 111.3mm was calculated unnormally. The selection parameters in the other opening mesh sizes were respectively 0.3790 and -5.2891, 0.2071 and -4.9164, 0.1292 and -3.1733, 0.1153 and -3.8497 in the order of former mesh sizes except 111.3mm. 4. Todarodes pacificus ; Selection curve in case of the opening mesh sizes, 70.2mm and 111.3mm were calculated unnormally. In the order cases of the opening mesh sizes, the selection parameters were respectively were 0.5766 and -6.0169, 0.3735 and -5.4633, 0.2771 and -5.7718 in the order of former mesh sizes except 70.2mm and 111.3mm.

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A study on the origination and Transmission of Yu in Northeast Asia. -from the 4th Century to the 8th Century- (동북(東北)아시아 유의 기원(起源)과 그 교류(交流)에 관(關)한 연구(硏究) -$4{\sim}8$세기(世紀)를 중심(中心)으로-)

  • Cho, Sun-Hee;Park, Kyung-Ja
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.17
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    • pp.29-43
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    • 1991
  • Yu was a type of dress worn on the upper part of the body which was commonly used in Northeast Asia. It was originally used by the Northern race for the need of courtesy as well as protecting cold. It was believed that Yu in Northeast Asia, which was called Kaftan, was came from Scythai lived in North Eurasian land around the Black sea. Scythians were the first-formed horse-riding race in the world and their civilization influenced those of far Asiatic sector along the steppe route. As their power expanded, their costume culture transmitted to the East(China, Korea, Japan). The upper garment, Yu, was characterized by the left-sided collars, narrow sleeves belted at the waist to the length of the hip line and the tight trouser on the lower part, which we commonly called HoBok(胡服) style. 1. Yu in Northeast Asia was originated from the Eurasians, Scythian Culture. Being exchanged, active style costumes were widely used among Chinese, Koreans and Japanese throughout centuries' including $4{\sim}8$ century. 2. Chinese Yu had a style of wide-sleeves and right-sided collars. The traditional costumes of Han race are consisted of wide-sleeved Yu on the upper and long-skirt on the lower part of the body. Before the adoptation of HoBok during reign of King Jo Mooryung in 307. B.C., HoBok style had already found in the remains since the Sang period. There were various names among Yu during the Han period. Seup, Sean Eui, Kye, Kyu were one of the styles and several names were meant for collar and sleeves. During $4{\sim}8$ centuries, clothes of right-sided collar were found, superior to that of left-sided and narrow sleeves were widely used both the royal and the humble. Various styles of decoration were seen in Yu around neck, back and sleeves comparing other nations. 3. Yu, in Korea, was typical style of Northern-bound HoBok. Both men and women had similarity in Yu style, narrow sleeves, left-sided collar, belted at the waist and to the length of hip line. Influenced by Han race, in the $4th{\sim}8th$ centuries, dual system of collar was found. But we cannot see major change in Yu and finally was connected to the present. 4. The original design of the Japanese costumes was not similar to that of Northern nomadic hunting race, which was suitable for horse-riding activities. Owing to the climates along the island, we could see various conditions ranging from the cold and to the warm. Influenced by the climates, pulling over the neck(Pancho style) were major design in Japan. As Korea was advanced earlier than Japan, Korean landed Japanese territory showing clothes. So primitive costumes had changes in style. During the $4th{\sim}8th$ period. The Korean mode was found in Haniwa (which was built to make sacrifices to the dead King) and costumes in Jeong Chang Won. Among the costumes in Jeong Chang Won, we put 3 or more costumes to the category of Yu characterizing elements of Korea and Tang period. From the $4th{\sim}8th$ century, China, Korea, Japan fell into the same cultural category, Scythai. Styles in Yu among three nations, we saw little differences, basically along times. Originated from the West Asia, Yu was transmitted to the far East changing Chinese costumes, Koreans melted it into the traditional elements and then influenced Japan.

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The Mesh Selectivity of Trawl Cod-end for the Compressed From Fishes (측편형어류에 대한 트롤 끝자루의 망목선택성)

  • Jeong, Sun-Beom;Lee, Ju-Hee;Kim, Sam-Gon
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Fisheries and Ocean Technology
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    • v.29 no.4
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    • pp.247-259
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    • 1993
  • The fishing experiment was carried out by the training ship Saebada in order to analyse the mesh selectivity for trawl cod-end, in the Southern Korea Sea and the East China Sea from June. 1991 through August, 1992. The trawl cod-end used in this experiment has the trouser type of cod-end with cover net. and the mesh selectivity was examined for the five kinds of the opening of mesh in its cod-end part. A total of 163 hauls, of which having mesh size 51.2mm ; A 89, 70.2mm ; B 54, 77.6mm ; C 55, 88.0mm ; D 52 and 111.3mm ; E 20 were used respectively. Selection curves and selection parameters were calculated by using a logistic function, S=1/(1+exp super(-(aL+b)) ). The mesh election master curves were estimated by S=1/(1+exp super(-[a(L/M)+$\beta$]) ). and the optimum mesh size were calculated with (L/M) sub(50) of master curve. In these cases 'a' and '$\alpha$' are slope, 'b' and '$\beta$' are intercept. 'L' is body length of the target species of fishes, 'M' is the mesh size, and 'S' denotes mesh selectivity. In this report, the four species of compressed form fishes were taken analized according to fish shape, and 'S' denotes mesh selectivity. In this report, the four species of compressed form fishes were taken analized according to fish shape, and the results obtained are summarized as follows: 1. Red seabream Pagrus major(Temminct et Schlegel) and yellow porgy Dentex tumifrons(Temminct et Schlegel) ; Selection rate in each mesh size of A, B, C, D and E were 99.7%, 97.5%, 91.4%, 76.7% and 57.8% respectively. Selection parameters 'a' and 'b' of mesh sizes C, D and E were 2.65 and -28.62, 4.40 and -77.73, 2.31 and -46.99, and their selection factors were 1.39, 2.10, 1.83 respectively. Selection parameters of master curve '$\alpha$' and '$\beta$' were 3.05 and -5.65 respectively, and (L/M) sub(50) was 1.85. The optimum mesh size of Red seabream was 141mm. 2. Filefish Thamnaconus modestus (Gunther) ; Selection rate in each mesh size of A, B, C, D and E were 99.6%, 98.3%, 91.2%, 80.0% and 48.6% respectively. Selection parameters 'a' and 'b' of mesh sizes C, D and E were 5.82 and -55.10, 2.92 and -36.90, 3.91 and -63.09, and their selection factors were 1.35, 1.44, 1.45 respectively. Selection parameters of master curve '$\alpha$' and '$\beta$' were 3.02 and -4.32 respectively, and (L/M) sub(50) was 1.43. The optimum mesh size was 129mm. 3. Target dory Zeus faber Valenciennes ; Selection rate in each mesh size of A, B, C, D and E were 99.7%, 100%, 83.2%, 91.6% and 65.0% respectively. Selection parameters 'a' and 'b' of mesh sizes C, D and E were 3.85 and -32.46, 4.19 and -57.38, 2.45 and -40.03, and their selection factors were 1.09, 1.56, 1.47 respectively. Selection parameters of master curve '$\alpha$' and '$\beta$' were 2.64 and -3.53 respectively, and (L/M) sub(50) was 1.34. The optimum mesh size was 127mm. 4. Butterfish Psenopsis anomala (Temminct et Schlegel) ; Selection rate in each mesh size of A, B, C, D and E were 99.2%, 34.1%, 46.5%, 14.3% and 2.4% respectively. Selection parameters 'a' and 'b' of mesh sizes B, C and D were 5.35 and -71.70, 5.07 and -69.25, 3.31 and -62.06 and their selection factors were 1.91, 1.75, 2.13 respectively. Selection parameters of master curve '$\alpha$' and '$\beta$' were 3.16 and -6.24 respectively, and (L/M) sub(50) was 1.98. The optimum mesh size was 71mm.

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