• 복식
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• 제61권10호
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• pp.104-118
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to examine the recent various developments of men's fashion by analyzing how exotic tastes were presented in men's modern fashion from 2001 to 2010. For this purpose, a researcher reviewed relevant studies to identify the styles of exotic tastes that were reflected in men's modern fashion specifically in Chinese, Japanese, Indian, East Asian, American, North American and South American styles. Findings of this study is summarized as follows. Main examples of men's modern fashion were found in Chinese-style apparel such as the magwae, queue, coolie hat and the Mao jacket. The Kimono and the samurai robe, both of which best represent Japanese apparel and the Japanese traditional patterns also had an influence on men's modern fashion Indian style clothing such as dhoti, veshti and lungi which cover the lower body, vajani as loose trousers, kurta of full-over tunic form and turban also had an effect as well. The men's modern fashion is also impacted by Middle Asian styles that includes the thobe, sirwaal, futah, which is sort of a skirt that is long enough to cover the calf and whose front parts overlap each other, turbans and the hempen hood which is fixed with the agal. Exotic elements such as animal skins, body painting, tattoos and head dresses found in African styles can also be found in men's modern fashion. Parts of North American style influence come from the applications of Indians' costume and head dress. The surveyed men's modern fashion of the South America style was represented by the applications of natives' costume and Andean tunic, loincloth and shawl. In all of the exotic styles found in men's modern fashion, historicity, eclecticism, aestheticism and nature-orientation are implied. They are the source of inspirations that promote changes and diversity in men's modern fashion.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제45권1호
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• pp.122-147
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• 2012

순천 송광사 소조사천왕상의 수리를 위한 조사과정에서 수습된 파편들로부터 과거에 사용된 채색안료에 대한 자연과학적 자료를 확보하고자 분석연구를 수행하였다. 순천 송광사 소조 사천왕상은 1628년 중조(重造)된 이래 1720년부터 1976년까지 7차례의 중수개채(重修改彩)가 이뤄졌기 때문에 이 기간 동안의 시대별 사용안료를 연구할 수 있는 훌륭한 자료가 될 수 있다. 분석은 사천왕상 중 서방광목천왕에서 이탈된 파편들을 대상으로 하였으며, 광학현미경, SEM-EDX, XRD를 이용하여 시편의 상태를 확인하고, 안료의 구성성분과 화합물을 분석하였다. 분석 대상 파편들에서는 갈색 점토띠가 있는 토층, 섬유질이 다량 함유된 토층, 조직이 성긴 한지, 조직이 치밀한 한지, 견직물, 마직물 등 6종의 재료가 확인되었다. 이 중 갈색 점토띠가 있는 토층은 소지부로 판단되며, 나머지 5종의 재료는 소조불의 중수개체 시 사용된 보수재료로 판단된다. 각 재료의 상 하부에 부착된 채색층에 대한 분석결과를 서로 비교한 결과, 각 재료들은 '소지부 ${\rightarrow}$ 조직이 성긴 한지 ${\rightarrow}$ 섬유질이 다량 함유된 토층 ${\rightarrow}$ 견직물 ${\rightarrow}$ 마직물 및 조직이 치밀한 한지'의 순으로 적용된 것으로 추정된다. 또한, 이들 보수재료들에 적용된 안료와 소조불의 중수개채시기를 고려하면 조직이 성긴 한지는 1720~1891년, 섬유질을 다량 함유한 토층은 1926년, 견직물과 마직물은 각각 1941년과 1976년에 적용된 것으로 추정된다. 각 시대별 사용 안료의 특징을 살펴보면, 1891년 이전에는 백색과 녹색으로 연백과 염기성염화동의 사용이 두드러지며, 1926년 이후에는 화록청, 군청, 바륨화이트와 아연화 등이 등장하고, 1976년을 전후해서는 지당과 합분(패각분)의 사용이 두드러지는 것을 확인할 수 있었다. 이상 소조상에 적용된 시대별 안료에 대한 추론 결과는 향후 사찰벽화나 단청 등의 근대 안료연구에 비교자료로서 활용될 수 있을 것으로 기대된다.

• 복식
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• 제53권7호
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• pp.95-109
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• 2003

The style of different styles of clothing have been developed by not only the natural environment and social effects. but also by various variables such as the peculiar cultures and religions of different ethnic groups. It is naturally accepted without question that the origin of trousers was derived from the Skytie race in the modern style of dress. And the style of those trousers has changed and developed throughout a long history in different environments and surroundings. As part of the research of the process in this styles of clothing, it is essential to know how the fabric of trousers has been developed and how the styles have been changed because of different weather conditions and different religions. Nowadays, Eurasian countries was scattered from western and eastern Asian countries to middle Asian countries such as Russia, Uzbekistan, Kazakistan, Turkey, Turkmenistan, Iran and China. These countries are located on the way to the Silk Road. They are fully developed in a cultural area among the different religions. In terms of cultural aspects within the different religions, men's trousers had developed the traditional style of this dress as one of the importnat items on the cultural basis. The ranges and types of these traditional trousers are divided by the regions, such as west and southern Asia, central Asia and China. Pakistan, Afghanistan, Iran, Iraq, Syria, Lebanon, Turkey. Jordan, Saudi Arabia, Kuwait and Israel was a part of the west and southern Asian countries which were located between western countries and eastern countries. This tribes wore Shalwar trousers which is a wide style of trousers. Shalwar in the western and eastern Asian region has a specific feature by the each nation but has the same distinctions such as by using very wide and loose style and tying a fine thread around the waist. Some central Asian countries consisted of part of China, Turkmenistan. the Republic of Tajikistan. the Republic of Kyrgyzstan and the Republic of Afganistan. These style of trousers are compound types which appeared with mixing Draperian Greek culture. So it can be inferred from this data that the horse-riding nomadic trousers which had been handed down from Skytie tribe through Persia. The style of the trousers in those regions has small pieces. The style of the trousers in China, which is located on the way to the far eastern countries, has developed new trousers put together two pieces of the textile. These widen trousers can be worn by using a sash belt. So we can find out that those trousers of countries which mentioned above have a common point and a rule.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제24권5호
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• pp.35-51
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• 2020

To satisfy consumers' desire to enjoy their own individuality and cultural trends, the discovery of various materials and the expression of materials embodying their characteristics are increasingly important in the fashion jewelry industry. This study examines, paper mulberry fiber, a raw material of hanji that has been excavated as a new material for fashion jewelry, is durable as wall as, soft and easy to form, has a unique texture along with, excellent aesthetic quality, and expresses various colors, thereby differentiating itself from traditional fashion jewelry materials. The material itself also has symbolic significance as an approach to discovering new sustainable materials for fashion jewelry to ensure increased specificity of the product based on the premise of freedom of expression. The weight and optimal drying time of chicken fiber were derived for the study of fashion jewelry expression using the characteristics of paper mulberry fiber. The techniques of casting, deflection, packing and winding (winding beads with fibers and straps) were derived and four brooches were produced in total. This study is meaningful for the future of, the fashion jewelry industry as it presents the uses of new materials such as paper mulberry fiber to induce multidisciplinary consumption and to suggest a direction for the creation of new value-added products. Further, in order to expand the realm of fashion jewelry industry with our own competitive products that have secured our cultural identity and uniqueness in the global market, there must be continued follow-up research on mass production methods for industrialization.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제5권1호
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• pp.14-25
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• 2005

The objective of this study is to understand bodily extension and identity in contemporary fashion art through the analysis of 'the fashion acting on the body' among the fashion theory excluding body and the conspicuous works on the opening and covering images as a fashion art as a body-space'. This study also investigated identity problems where there are poles apart in opening and closure their bodies and body-space in which its clothing types were distorted by being de-bodilization out of the traditional and ideological expression method in contemporary fashion art from a opening and closure point of view. Image of opening and closure among body-space in fashion art can be classified into opposing structure of opening and closure. Destroying the boundary between bodily opening and closure for a primary function of clothing and dismantling the role and boundary between body and clothing, opening body-space in appearance as a reemergence of body image or the border between inner and outer are being ambiguous because of transparent material. Being representative work of this study opening body-space was expressed as an opening space image using transparency. On the contrary, closure body-space was isolated from external environment and confined in the certain space, which could limit or restraint body- action. Excluding boundary of body and clothing on the whole or in part, boundary of work becomes body-space. However, these were appeared to be a work inducing unlimited curiosity and meaning from the audience. The interpretation of artistic and body-space in fashion art are indicating the role and function of the fashion art exceeding the suggestible dimensions in the every day life of fashion. The body-space of fashion art showing similar aspect of body art today could be understood that it is substituted into an metaphorical, critical space by seeing it as a symbol system connected with social space. Therefore, contemporary fashion art should be interpreted as an equivocal space looking at the body-space with open mind.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제7권6호
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• pp.85-91
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• 2003

Quick Response based Mass-Customization can be produced and distributed customized goods and services on mass basis in apparel e-business. Because consumers cannot touch and feel the apparel products in e-business, they tend to have the negative buying behavior. The purposes of this study were to analyze factors of texture image, and to investigate the differences of consumer sensibility on texture image of apparel products based on different marketing channels (on-line/off-line). Two types of questionnaires for on-line and off-line were used to assess consumer sensibility on apparel fabric. The 8 swatches were selected based on the previous literatures. 202 returned questionnaires for each type (on-line/off-line) were analyzed by t-test, mean and standard deviation with SPSS 10.0. The result of this study was showed that there were partially significant differences on consumer sensibility on texture image of apparel products between on-line and off-line. In case of corduroy, consumers perceived more high-class image under on-line than off-line. In case of taffeta, consumers perceived more thin and dense image under off-line (traditional marketing channel) than on-line (e-commerce). In case of denim, consumers perceived more thin and natural image under off-line than online. In case of organza, consumers perceived more natural image under on-line than off-line. In case of satin, consumers perceived more natural image under on-line than off-line. In case of chiffon, consumers perceived denser image under on-line than off-line. In case of velvet, consumers perceived thinner image, higher-class image, and more natural image of texture sensibility under on-line than off-line. In case of single jersey, consumers perceived higher-class image, and denser image of texture under on-line than off-line.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제21권4호
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• pp.23-32
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• 2009

The objective of this study is to investigate the efficacy of leaf powder colorants as substitutes for traditional indigo dyeing. Leaf powder colorants were prepared by hot air($50^{\circ}C$) and room temperanrre($25^{\circ}C$) drying methods from fresh leaves. The presence of indigo in the leaf powder colorants was confirmed by UV/Visible absorption spectra. All the powder colorants showed broad absorption at 602 nm as same as synthetic indigo. Dyeing was done by reduction method with sodium hydrosulfite and sodium hydroxide. Leaf powder colorants produced blue color on silk fabrics, showing similar color to the one dyed traditionally with fresh juice extract. The powder colorants prepared at room temperature drying were more stable for long term storage than that prepared by hot air drying. Thus, the powder colorants prepared by room temperature drying was reduced and dyed in one-step process without sodium hydroxide in the dyebath for further investigate dyeing properties. K/S value of the fabric dyed without sodium hydroxide was much higher than one dyed with sodium hydroxide. Regardless of the addition of sodium hydroxide, rubbing fastness was fairly good showing above 4 rating. Fastness to dry cleaning and light of the fabrics dyed without sodium hydroxide were mote higher than that dyed in alkaline condition.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권5호
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• pp.789-808
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• 2010

The orientalism in fashion is believed to develop from the eclectic notion of oriental and occidental fashion. By studying on Gabrielle Chanel's clothing that is usually used by neutral colors and on Yohji Yamamoto's clothing that characterizes clothes in neutral colors, the purpose of this study is to seek ways for remaking Korean traditional clothing into a new modern one to gain a world reputation in terms of clothes. Therefore the study is for exploring the characteristics on the factors of fashion design such as color, line and textile materials with works of Gabrielle Chanel, a famous designer in Western world who has made a black color a popular one for people and works of Yohji Yamamoto, an well-known fashion designer of the East using neutral colors. This study analyzed, from the 2004 S/S to the 2006 F/W, the collection of works published in style.com through the works of Gabrielle Chanel, Yohji Yamamoto, and through the analysis of the visual target. A total of 527 images are used in this paper. Elements of fashion design analysis are lines, colors, and materials. The study reached the conclusion as follows after analyzing the characteristics on clothing with neutral colors of Gabrielle Chanel and Yohji Yamamoto. In case of aesthetic characteristics on the design of Gabrielle Channel, it has expression of feminist, sensual, modern and luxury. It is considered that Gabrielle Channel has a luxury image using a neutral color. Also using simple sleeveless in black and tweed structure, the garments have mixed with neutral colors. Fashion design characteristics on the design of Yohji Yamamoto classified into sensual, modern, ascetic expression. Therefore the design has a simple expression of using a black color. Yohji Yamamoto is a designer who pursues unstructured design by using various neutral colors such as black, gray and white based on the oriental sentiment.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제24권1호
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• pp.15-28
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• 2020

The purpose of this study was to develop and propose creative smart bags in emotional e-textiles using LEDs that inform smartphone users of motion-induced luminescence and ringing of cell phones. The LED light-emitting operation tasks produced in the study were applied to each of the three design smart bags, setting the five cases of luminance by a call initiated, absent phone, rejecting answering phone, texting, and motion-induced luminescence. In the male laptop bags of LED luminous images using wappen, 10 LEDs could be separated by a total of three pins to display the luminous mode, and all 10 LEDs became a total of five luminous patterns, including all that illuminate and those that illuminate randomly. E-wappen rendered the motif a strong sense of visibility and performed six roles on phone rings and texting. To develop a women's tote bag, we did a laser cut and attached the leather strips and placed 10 triangular LEDs to form a geometric LED e-textile. It provides the possibility of transforming simple design from traditional fashion into a more interesting and various smart designs. An entertainment smart bag using graphic design was constructed by applying a tilt sensor to look like a light in the night sky by shaking and moving the bag. The graphic design and composition of LEDs indicate that LEDs and fashion item are applied in harmony rather than heterogeneous, enabling them to be applied as fashion-oriented wearable smart products.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제12권3호
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• pp.153-166
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• 2008

The purpose of this research is to analyze the overall process of the wedding industry - arranging domestic wedding firms and formulating a database related to the business. Simultaneously, with all the data in hand the research attempts to seek flaws within the wedding industry and tries to offer solutions to revitalize the industrial section. Because the list of articles is enormously expansive, for the purpose of basic research, objects have been selected according to the process presented below. Wedding-product firms have been classified within the boundaries of dresses, studios, and makeup firms; distributing channels are mainly focused on wedding planners and related-consulting firms; related departments of universities and wedding organizations are illustrated as well. Due to the unorganized system of this particular field, the research process has been conducted with materials from personal experiences, newspapers, magazines, Internet websites, documents, and interviews with wedding-related firms and organizations, and professors. As a result, over 13 subjects which formulate a market structure of over 30 trillion won. However, due to lack of systemization of the industry, as it expands, numerous problems occur. Excessive competition between wedding-consulting firms and the lack of reliable education for wedding planners, unnecessary external investment and the lack of product research, false Information from the Internet puts the entire industry in a inefficient position. Organizations such as Korea Traditional clothes Industrial Union, Korea Wedding Consulting Association, Korea Martial Industrial Promotion Association(KOMIPA) etc, are made to seek for solutions. For the wedding industry to revitalize, wedding-product firms, wedding planners and consulting firms must maintain an organic relationship every season. They must systemize a proper distribution system, with wedding-product companies enhancing the quality of products, wedding planners organizing wedding plans with responsibility, and consulting firms focusing not only on profits. In order to make high-valued products, wedding-product companies must put their greatest effort in producing talented minds, and universities with related departments must do so as well. In other words, the industrial and educational section of our society must cooperate through a sophisticated system. In addition, related organizations must act to receive governmental support in order to support the industry.