• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.733-744
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• 2008

In this research, we investigated the university students' consciousness and preference for the jacquard fabrics and developed the evaluation scale of the sensibility of jacquard fabrics appied by Korean traditional motives. 23 jacquard fabrics were assessed subjectively by 466 consumers using the 7-point scale of 23 descriptors of texture sensibility and 50 descriptors image sensibility. The percentage of students who were interested in jacquard fabrics was similar as that of students who were uninterested. 75.3% of students were shown to think that it was necessary to apply Korean traditional motives to the jacquard fabrics. Through cluster analysis, the hierarchy of the image sensibility was examined. The tactile sensibility of jacquard fabrics were classified into 9 sub-clusters, image sensibility of them were classified into 14 sub-clusters. The dimensions evaluating the image sensibility of jacquard fabrics were developed using multi-dimensional scaling method. A 3-dimensions and 6-axes system were determined, which consisted of 'classic-modern', 'splendid-plain', 'abstract-realistic'. It was shown that preference of jacquard fabrics was increased, as image sensibility such as 'various', 'gorgeouse', 'beautiful', 'mild', 'dim', 'traditional', 'orderly', 'comfortable', 'dignified', 'abundant', 'fantastic', and 'vague' were increased and those such as 'intense', 'old', 'stuffy', 'exotic' and 'static' were decreased.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• 제6권3호
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• pp.269-276
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• 2005

In this study, cross-cultural comparison of sound sensation for Korean traditional silk fabrics between Korea and America was performed and prediction models for sound sensation by objective measurements including sound parameters such as level pressure of total sound (LPT), Zwicker's psychoacoustic characteristics, and mechanical properties by Kawabata Evaluation System were established for each nation to explore the objective parameters explaining sound sensation of the Korean traditional silk. As results, Koreans felt the silk fabric sounds soft and smooth while Americans were revealed as perceiving them hard and rough. Both Koreans and Americans were pleasant with sounds of Gongdan and Newttong and especially Newttong was preferred more by Americans in terms of sound sensation. In prediction models, some of subjective sensation were found as being related mainly with mechanical properties of traditional silk fabrics such as surface and compressional characteristics.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• 제7권4호
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• pp.450-456
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• 2006

The objectives of this study were to investigate physiological and psychological responses to the rustling sound of Korean traditional silk fabrics and to figure out objective measurements such as sound parameters and mechanical properties determining the human responses. Five different traditional silk fabrics were selected by cluster analysis and their sound characteristics were observed in terms of FFT spectra and some calculated sound parameters including level pressure of total sound (LPT), Zwicker's psychoacoustic parameters - loudness(Z), sharpness(Z), roughness(Z), and fluctuation strength(Z), and sound color factors such as ${\Delta}L\;and\;{\Delta}f$. As physiological signals, the ratio of low frequency to high frequency (LF/HF) from the power spectrum of heart rate variability, pulse volume (PV), heart rate (HR), and skin conductance level (SCL) evoked by the fabric sounds were measured from thirty participants. Also, seven aspects of psychological state including softness, loudness, sharpness, roughness, clearness, highness, and pleasantness were evaluated when each sound was presented. The traditional silk fabric sounds were likely to be felt as soft and pleasant rather than clear and high, which seemed to evoke less change of both LF/HF and SCL indicating a negative sensation than other fabrics previously reported. As fluctuation strength(Z) were higher and bending rigidity (B) values lower, the fabrics tended to be perceived as sounding softer, which resulted in increase of PV changes. The higher LPT was concerned with higher rating for subjective loudness so that HR was more increased. Also, compression linearity (LC) affected subjective pleasantness positively, which caused less changes of HR. Therefore, we concluded that such objective measurements as LPT, fluctuation strength(Z), bending rigidity (B), and compression linearity (LC) were significant factors affecting physiological and psychological responses to the sounds of Korean traditional silk fabrics.

• 복식
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• 제50권
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• pp.161-182
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• 2000

The results of this study were as follows: The quit has been used for warmth supporting materials protection religious uses decoration and giving stability of shapes. Quilt is developed from monk's robe of lags and the word 'nubi' is originated form 'nabeui' in both Korean and Japan. Korean quilt was used mainly for warmth: Japanese one was used for warmth and supporting materials. The techniques used for traditional Korean quit were parallel vertical hand stitches. On the other hand Japanese traditional quilt uses various motifs of sashiko which is similar to embroidery and named by region. Korean quilt can be divided into three types by the stitch intervals: Fin quit(Jan unbi) Medium quilt(Jung nubi) and Wide quilt(Demun nubi). Japanese quilt has been developed in east-north region and can be grouped into sashiko kogin and hishizashi by motifs of quit. Korean quilt costumes are stuffed with cotton between the outer fabrics and linings and stitched vertically on the fabrics Main fabrics used were silk and cotton. Japanese quilt costume uses cotton yarns for stitching on flax or cotton fabrics used were silk and cotton. fabrics and main uses of the quilot costumes were sorking clothes of working classes. Both Korean and Japanese quilt costumes contain of family's health happiness and longevity. In summary Korean quilts use two layers of fabrics and stuff them with cotton and stitch parallel vertical i\lines to provide warmth Japanese quilt are sashiko which is stitches of strand in various shapes using cotton yarns. differ by region and are made for warmth and supporting materials.

• 복식
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• 제60권2호
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• pp.68-80
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• 2010

In order to get the information needed for the preservation and application of Korean traditional dyeing techniques to modern textiles products, the present study analyzed the color and color differences of dyed goods according to the contents of fabrics and the traditional techniques of dyeing the Buddhist priests' robes. A spectrophotometer was used to measure the differences in achromatic color according to dyeing techniques, dyestuff, kinds of dyed fabrics, and after-treatment methods. Through experiments based on the traditional dyeing techniques used by Korean Buddhist priests, a total of 144 pieces of dyed fabrics were made and all the colors of those 144 pieces were analyzed. Among three dyeing techniques tested; (1) dyeing with a dye-bath made of ink stick that was ground down with water, (2) dyeing with a dye-bath made by shaking a bag containing ink powder in water, and (3) dyeing with a dye-bath made by rubbing a boiled ink stick on a fabric, dyeing with a dye-bath made of ink stick that was ground down with water was shown to be the best technique in terms of coloring. For fabrics, ramie was the best of all three techniques in terms of making achromatic color. Starching and rubbing was the most effective after-treatment method used on both fabrics dyed with a grounded ink stick and on fabrics dyed by rubbing a boiled ink stick on them. As a whole, yangyeonmook, made from minerals' soot, is better than songyeonmook, which is made by burning old pine trees or yooyeonmook, which is made by burning oils from seeds. Therefore, yangyeonmook could help to preserve and utilize the traditional dyeing techniques of Korea in a practical way in modern life.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제18권5호
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• pp.1103-1113
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• 2009

Now in the 21st century, all the industries in our world are rapidly changing, including fashion trends and customers' needs as well. Fashion textile planning is also developing towards the direction where it could satisfy the merged sensitivity and incentive of the customers through an idea. The purpose of this study is to accentuate the importance of fashion material planning in fitting conventional patterns and eco-benign fabric materials. Accordingly, this study is mainly focused on the reflection of fabric planning characteristics to show tradition containing comfort and naturalness. As mixing with established fabrics and blending with natural/functional fabrics, and conforming to the trend of the seasonal fabric, it has developed a new structure and pattern by changing the basic source of traditional patterns to a computer aided design system. Therefore, four different types of items were basically up-graded by fitting it in with traditional patterns.

• 복식
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• 제67권1호
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• pp.56-73
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to categorize the lotus patterns of traditional Korean fabrics. This study collected 169 fabrics of Korean lotus flower patterns and then made a list of era, configuration of pattern, type of artifact, findspot and holding institutions. It analyzes the characteristics of 251 kinds of lotus woven on 169 Korean fabrics, 251 kinds of lotus on 169 fabrics divided into Realistic Type, Design Type, and Abstract Type. They consist of 213 kinds of Design Type(84.8%), 21 kinds of Realistic Type(8.4%), and 17 kinds of Abstract Type(6.8%). The largest part of lotus patterns is Design Type. Design Types are subdivided into 14 types. This result contrasted with the conclusion of the research paper about peony patterns in Traditional Korean Textiles. The largest part of peony patterns was Realistic Types. Realistic Types of lotus patterns in Korean textiles are subdivided into 6 types. Korea has more diverse forms and a higher ratio of Realistic Types than China and this can be interpreted to reflect that there is a tendency in Korea to prefer natural patterns. Besides abstract Types are subdivided into 3 types. When the lotus flower patterns of Korea and China are categorized and similar types are compared, there are some unique patterns that appear only in Korea or China. Not only that, similar types display differences in pattern arrangement methods and portrayal among the two countries. If such study results are utilized, they can be grounds for distinguishing the production area of lotus flower textile fabrics when they are newly excavated in the future.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제35권
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• pp.186-219
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• 2002

It is fortunate to glance at the old fabric style through the fabrics found in the Buddhist statues. There fore these fabrics deserve more attention and significance among the various remains found in the Buddhist Statues and should be taken carc of as the cultural inheritance. Concepts in the traditional fabrics could be viewed in three different aspects, In the first, the five primary elemental conception(五方思想) deeply rooted as the part of life style in old time appeared in five dircctional colors of the costumes whicb in turn connected to the traditional thought of order and harmony with nature. The second is the formal aspect. As can be seen in the fabrics found in the Buddhist statue, religious symbol was shaped into spiritual representation. The third is the aspect of the textile motifs, where wealth and preference for son were symbolized and even a utopia they dreamed for was appeared in the motif. Considering these conceptual aspects, the traditional textiles could be understood in line with the other cultural activity and should be taken more attention since the idea embeddcd in the textiles or colthes reveal the essential thoughts in old time.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제28권1호
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• pp.62-75
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• 2020

In this study, clothing items recorded in Nappyemulmok (納幣物目) and Ugwimulmok (于歸物目) in the early 20th century were examined. These clothing items were recorded on the lists of goods for wedding gifts from the 1910s to the 1930s. A large quantity of these lists were organized into eight categories by analyzing the fabrics of each item of clothing. Representative fabrics used for skirts and Jeogori (such as Myeongju, 明紬) were used widely. Jeoksam was mostly made with ramie fabric. Pants mostly used cotton such as Dangmok, Mumyung, and calico, with some use of silk. Gojaengi mostly used cotton such as Dangmok, Mumyung, and calico, with some use of ramie. Danui (單衣) used silk fabrics such Pparinseu, Myeongju, and Gyoju for decorative features that were revealed when rolled up. Naeui (內衣) is believed to be the closest underclothes to the body, and Mumyung was mostly used. Dangmok and calico were used for the Yodae (腰帶) and fabrics such as silk, Nobangju, and JuhangNa were used for outdoor use. This type of categorization is significant, as it can be used as academic evidence to verify and reproduce the clothing of the time by identifying fabrics, colors, and characteristics of certain items of clothing. Lastly, it is expected that the analysis of clothing will provide theoretical data in the same way that movies, dramas, and museum exhibitions feature modern traditional weddings.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제13권4호
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• pp.167-177
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• 2011

As today the world has been globalized, each country and race has been trying its best to preserve and develop its own unique culture to have its identity. Same exertion has been added in the areas of fashion and textile such as developing traditional textile or fabrics and applying them to the materials of modem fashion. The Korean traditional gold foil is one of invaluable cultural heritages, and another means to elevate the wearer's social status, and its beauty and artistic quality is very excellent. So, in order to preserve and develop of the Korean traditional gold foil, the exertion of developing the gold foil into multi-purpose modem fashion material which is endurable and practical by using the image of Korean traditional gold foil should be done. The purposes of this study are to preserve Korean traditional gold foil, to develop Korean textile and fashion industry by utilizing Korean traditional gold foil images in modem fashion. The results are as follows: textile designs applied plant motives of Korean traditional gold foil were carried out, modem fashion materials of Korean traditional gold foil image were developed by Jacquard weave. They were to certify that those were registered on the register of the Korean of design registrations from commissioner the Korean Intellectual Property Office, and developed fabrics of Korean gold foil image were examined the utility for modern fashion materials through using them in the modem wearing, interior goods and fashion items.