• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.81-96
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• 2014

The meanings of colors vary with time and space. For the most important events in a person's life, such as wedding or funeral, people use color to symbolize their identities or roles. Traditionally, the colors of dress had indicated the wearer's age, class, or marital status in Korea. However, Korea's exposure to western cultures has affected in many dimensions of its modern history. Especially, influenced by social change, the traditional dress has undergone many modifications in forms, silhouettes, materials, and color. However, women's mourning dress has been maintained as a long lasting tradition and the use of white in mourning dress has been regarded as a norm until recently, while men have worn a regular black suit with a black tie. But, the shift from white to black in mourning dress has been observed in recent mourning practices. To examine this change of color in Korean traditional mourning dress, a historical approach utilizing multiple resources, such as interview, observations of events, documents, and archival records was applied.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.340-355
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• 1995

purpose of this study was to trace historically the causes of the visual inconsistency of seXual ilT'age in dress with versatile perspectives. For this purpose, theoretical studies about the concepts of sexuality in dress were precceded. To trace the factors of the visual inconsistency of sexual image in dress, historical studies from ancient Egypt to modern ages were done. And then, the factors of the visual inconsist\ulcornerency of sexual image in dress were identified. The synthetic results were as follows; L The visual inconsistency of sexual image in dress shows the phenomena that men introduce the traditional feminine image in dress (ex. X silhouette, skirts), whereas women do the traditional masculine image (ex. Y silhouette, pants), which arouse androgynous image in appearance. And, it also indicates that men or women wear the dress excluded the traditional masculine image as well as the traditional feminine image, which arouse neutral image in appearance. 2. The visual inconsistency of sexual image in dress have been existed historically, from Egypt to modern ages. 3. The visual inconsistency of sexual image III dress was caus~d by various factors as follows; First, ideal beauty of the times which did not distinguish between masculinity and femininity resulted in the visual inconsistency of sexual image in dress. Second, as a means of seeking pleasure, the visual inconsistency of sexual image in dress was used. Third, as a means of expressing ideology, the visual inconsistency of sexual image in dress was selected. Forth,in religious meaning,the visual inconsistency ofl sexual image in dress was appeared. Fifth,popularization of sports and occupational role made woman adopt the masculine image in dress in view of the aspects of functionalism. Sixth,Undevelopment of taloring contributed to generate androgenous image in dress.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제28권8호
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• pp.1076-1087
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• 2004

The purpose of the study is to give new aesthetic values of black dress one of the important items in contemporary women＇s fashion. Through the work, to give the new aesthetic characteristics that women really needed can be found. This study was processed by fashion books and articles, literal material with fashion photos which were related fashion trend from 1920 to the present. The results are as follows: In early 20th century, the black dress, which had simple form pursuing function like little black dress. In the middle of the 20th century, elegance and minimalism was represented by black dress, expressed erotic images together with see-through fabrics. In the end of the 20th century, body conscious style of black dress expressed sensual images of women. Modem black dress has design characteristics of the form: simple, close, exposure type and of the materials: matte, transparent and dazzling etc. Simple type emphasizes feminine elegance, while close type and exposure type disclose woman body curve to express erotic images. Matte materials made black dress express feminine elegance while transparent materials and dazzling materials made black dress express erotic and sensual beauty. The aesthetic characteristics of black dress were as followings: Sensualism expresses sexual attractiveness of women-close type and exposure type black dress and see-through materials and dazzling materials made black dress. Simplicity of extreme decoration effects are expressed through black dress having temperate and simple form. Femineity expresses traditional femineity to emphasize chaste, modest and elegant women images-the black dress, which is made of simple form, velvet and satin materials. Modernism combines black colour, which is called modem colour, with simplicity and function factors and pursues simple form. Ascetic practice controls mental and physical desire of the individuals, simple form without decoration covering up woman body and box type silhouette of black dress. Therefore, the study on image of the black dress, which have made appearance at modern fashion, is thought to help develop fashion trends and design, through which modern women express themselves and their beauty.

• 복식
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• 제23권
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• pp.197-209
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• 1994

The purpose of this study is to present a way to analyze and review the subjective view of the aesthetic for dress based on the framework of the aesthetic categories suggested by aesthetics. In order to define objectivism and subjectivism of the aesthetic of dress, theoretical studies on the aesthetic categories of dress were precded. And empirical studies on the aethetic categories of dress for selected period, the Renaissance (16th century) and the Baroque(17 th century). The results were follows : The objectivism of the aesthetic is the point of that an object causes human to feel and judge aesthetically, that is that of dress means judge aesthetically, that is that of dress means formal characteristic of dress and pervasive ideology expressed in dress. the subjectivism of the aesthetic is the point that the aesthetic is ruted in human, that is that of dress has been studied in relation to the image, the aesthetic consciousness m, or the aesthetic categories of dress. Especially, the aesthetic category is one of the universal and valid methods for the analysis of subjectivism of the aesthetic for dress. This study includes beauty, grace, elegance , the sublime, the tragic , the comic, aptness, ugliness as aesthetic categories of dress . Beauty is perfection and rule. Grace pleases human by sense. Elegance comes from the harmony of sense and spirit. the sublime comes into existence that human feels pleasure as well as displeasure simultaneously when human is overehelmed by objects. The tragic is the sense of the present of something valuable even if there is suffering. The comic is the sense of the presence of something amusing even if there is displeasure caused by contradiction. Apteness means utility in terms of the objectivism and , formality in terms of the subejctivism. Ugliness is opposite to beauty. As the result of emperical studies, the aesthetic categories of the Renaissance dress showed harmonious, balanced, and symmetrical beauty, and the magnificent, and enlarged sublime. In addition to these , grace and elegance were also found to some extent. Aesthetic categories of the Baroque dress show feminie, soft, cheerful, and fantastic grace, asymmetric , disarmonious, and extraordinary uglinesss, and the magnificient , grave, and dignified sublime.

• 한국패션뷰티학회지
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.97-103
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• 2008

This research thesis is designed to put Korean traditional and unique wedding dress with a greater significance and value than any other dress into application right for the global and contemporary trend, as part of a bid to show Korean traditional beauty. To do it, this thesis has attempted to add the traditional beauty to Korean inherent wedding dress and contemporary wedding dress, with the use of various traditional beauty elements, such as the line firm, materials and color based on the research on wedding dress, such as, 'Wonsam' or 'Unlined Jacket, and 'Long-sleeve Red Silk Jacket', and 'Dangeu' or 'Court Suit' that women wore in the Joseon Dynasty. To recreate Korean traditional beauty of line this research thesis has firstly put into the application the sleeve of 'Wonsam' or 'Unlined Jacket' and the form of a large section of 'Wonsam' of 'Unlined Jacket', and 'Doreyon Line' or 'Trimming Line' of 'Dangeu' or 'Court Suit' as wedding dress that women wore in the Joseon Dynasty. Secondly, this thesis has applied lotus and peony patterns out of traditional ones inlaid with 'Long-Sleeve Silk Jacket' into the contemporary wedding dress to develop a creative and special design. Thirdly, regarding the expressive pattern technique, this thesis has designed the repetitive rhythmical pattern with the use of beading technique and embroidery technique, which makes needle work picture and pattern in fabric. Lastly, it can demonstrate the original and distinct Korean style in application of western wedding dress into traditional and contemporary dress, by devising two collections of dress art pieces.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제44권11호
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• pp.35-42
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• 2006

A criticism model for dress was developed to offer a methodological insight into research on aesthetics of dress. Concepts from Edmund B. Feldman's art criticism model, James D. Carney's style-relative model of art criticism, and Sung Bok Kim's fashion criticism model were borrowed and integrated to create a criticism model for dress, comprising identification of styles, descriptive features, aesthetic value features, external interpretation, socio-cultural interpretation, and evaluation. Both inductive and deductive approaches for the identification of styles can be made in the process of dress criticism. In the former case, descriptive features and aesthetic features are sequentially identified to locate the styles of dress. In the latter case, styles are identified first, and descriptive features and aesthetic features are identified accordingly. Logical criticisms can be made based on the critics' background knowledge of the history of dress and art.

• 복식
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• 제50권5호
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• pp.65-75
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to survey about the suitability of maternity dresses on the market and thus to contribute for the maternity dress makers to produce clothes which are ergonomic and wanted by customers. The chief designers of the two major maternity dress makers were questioned about design and production planning, and 195 subjects who had an experience of delivery within a year were questioned about their consumer behavior, preference, and body fitting. The suggestions according to the results of the questionnaire of maternity dress makers and customers were as follows : 1. The most important item, an one-piece dress should be produced a lot more than other items. 2. The designs of maternity dress should be more simple, sophisticated, and natural. 3. The colors of pastel tone rather than trendy colors should be used. 4. The materials of maternity dress should be washable and able to help pregnant women's activity. 5. The front patterns of maternity dress should have more ease than the back patterns have, to cope with increasing abdominal girth and bust girth.

• 복식
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• 제52권5호
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• pp.129-144
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• 2002

Kyung(경, 경의), Which is Wedding ceremonial head dress, Veil. Ancient China, When dynasty is changing, wedding head dress form is different. Old china, Kyung(경) was sleeves attached dress form. But, after Dang(당) and Song(송) Dynasty changed square formed clothes, which is put on from head to the shoulder, and another is sleeves attached dress form. Ancient Korea have been face covered clothes. Myunuei(면의). from Buyo(부여) to the south Silla(남국신라) Dynasty. Koryo(고려) dynasty. likeness of the Song Dynasty square formed head wear, Mongsu(몽수), and Kedu(개두). When Chosun(조선) Dynasty, Kyunguei(경의), which was square formed 12 chuk size head wear of the blue colored veil. When King and Queen finished wedding ceremony in the another palace, Queen following the King, so to the palace. who put on the wedding veil, Kyungui(경의) , in the papanquin. and take out of the veil by another mother. before the hapkun(합근) ceremony. also Chosun dynasty has been another Queen's wedding ceremonial veil 'myunui (면의)'. It has been put on the head dress with ceremonial dress Juckui(적의) . And, take out of the veil by another mother, before the hapkun(합근) ceremony. also. common people has been put on the head dress with ceremonial dress Youmui(염의). And. take out of the veil by another mother. before the hapkun(합근) ceremony. also common people has been put on the Mongsuui(몽수의,장의). head dress with ceremonial dress round neck dress. And, take out of the veil by another mother, before the hapkun(합근) ceremony.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제39권5호
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• pp.695-702
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• 2015

This study provides basic data that are helpful to prepare a sizing system for dress shirts that improves the wearer's size fitness. The 16 different parts of the dress shirts were measured for 24 pieces of dress shirts with three kinds of size (95, 100 and 105) among the eight different brands on the market. The measurement sizes of the dress shirts analyzed the accuracy of the size information, size classification by size designation, and differences of size by brand. The results of the study were: 1. The size information of dress shirts differed from customer demand. 2. The size increments between size designations differed from each other even though measurement sizes of the dress shirts increased as the size designation increase. 3. Measurement sizes of the dress shirts were different between brands even for dress shirts of the same size designation. It is necessary that manufacturers secure an accurate and standardized sizing system and provide accurate information for the measurement sizes of dress shirts on an online shopping mall.

• 복식
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• 제50권2호
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• pp.111-123
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• 2000

This study compares architecture with dress, investigates the image of transparency expressed in modern dress, and reveals its modern meaning. That is the purpose for this study. The study results are as follows. First, purity was expressed with simple, white color which has not any exaggeration or decoration, and transparent veils of wedding dress express clean and pure image which represents the original meaning of wedding dress. Second, eroticism conveys being erotic by exposing human body through transmission of light over transparent materials. Eroticism expressed by wearing thin and transparent dress with body-conscious line almost like being nude or emphasizing the sexually curious area in human body. The biggest difference in this study is that eroticism is delivered in dress, but not in architecture. Third, playfulness shows synchronism which recognizes human body with transmission of light over ,linear, transparent materials or recognizes inside dress. Playfulness expressed with location switch between inside and outside, exaggeration, distortion , and emphasis. Forth , openness makes dress atmosphere soft by putting transparent materials over opaque materials, expressed separation from restriction by wearing transparent dress over a naked human body, and expressed open ad free image by expressing human emancipation and freedom. Transparent dress expressed modern human being's sensitivity desire for living with light and joyful mood departing from heavy through, and also open and free image which pursues for freedom of human boedy departing from the restriction of human body.