• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.8
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• pp.121-135
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to suggest a theoretical basis to name Sa(紗) and Ra(羅) remains properly by comparing and analyzing the name, usage, value, length and width of Sa(紗) and Ra(羅) recorded on documents made at the end period of Joseon. The features of Sa(紗) and Ra(羅) at the end of the Joseon Period are as follows. 1. The kinds of Sa(紗) are about 80, those of Ra(羅) are about 12, and those of Sa(紗) are significantly more than those of Ra(羅). In regard to the aspect of patterns, there were about 20 types of patterns in the case of Sa(紗), but no specific pattern for Ra(羅). 2. Some newly revealed patterns in the case of Sa (紗) are as follows. Baek -bok-mun(백복문) was a pattern full of ‘bats(박쥐[복])’, and Baek-jeop-mun(백접문) was a pattern full of ‘butterflies(나비[蝶])’ Jeop-mun(접문) was classified into ‘butterfly patterns(나비문[접문])’ and ‘traditional window flame patterns(창살문[접문])‘. 3. When considering the usages of Sa(紗) and Ra(羅), Sa(紗) was used for various detailed purposes according to their kinds and patterns, but Ra(羅) was mostly used for underwear. The most commonly used Sa(紗) was the Gab-sa type(甲紗類). On the contrary, the Go-sa type(庫紗類) was significantly less used than the Gab-sa type(甲紗類). However, it must have been of relatively high quality Sa(紗), shown by the fact that it was used for outer garments. In addition, the Gung-sa type(宮紗類) was the best quality Sa(紗), shown by the fact that it was used for court dress and official uniforms in the royal court. 4. Sa(紗) and Ra(羅) whose features have been examined we Gapsa(甲紗), Sun-in (純仁), Gosa(庫紗), Gwansa(官紗), Jusa(走紗), Eunjosa(은조사), Gwangsa(廣紗), Waesa(倭紗), Dorisa(도리사), Gong-yangsa(공양사), Rasa(羅紗), Danghangra(唐亢羅), Yanghangra(洋亢羅), Yunjura(윤주라), Eunra(銀羅), Jeohangra(저항라), Chura(秋羅). 5. Regarding the values of Sa(紗) and Ra(羅), they were high quality textures and its length and width of 1 Pil(疋), a roll of cloth, were not subdivided in detail such as in the case of plain weaved silks(平絹).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.1
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• pp.119-128
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• 2001

This study gives information for the enterprise to map out a positive marketing strategy and facilitate a new product development by researching and analyzing the specific character of the high income woman-brackets. In order to do that, based upon the materials of the National Statistical office, I made a selection of the high income brackets, subdividing their scholastic ability into four serfs. The subject of the study was the women from twenties to sixties among customers of a high class dress shop in Taejeon. I made up 600 questionnaires for them. using 441 of these for the statistical analysis and making available the correlation analysis, the primary factor analysis, and $X^2$-test. This study is classified into the type of women customers purchasing clothes who are the high-income brackets. Intended to study a special quality of purchasing according to income. 1. The purchasing manner of the high-income brackets customers is exposed the luxurious vain purchasing manner, the rational reasonable manner, and idiosyncrasy individual manner in order 1) The consumer of the high-income brackets in general prefer to a high class clothes. In the contrast, low-income brackets prefer to rational reasonable consumption in spending money on clothes. 2) The favorite consumption manner of the high income brackets is the luxurious vain purchasing manner. This consumption values the more symbolic means the things show than owing the goods. 2. The higher standard of education and younger tends to be high in the luxurious, vain purchasing. 3. The unreasonable purchasing show an high irrelation at the impulse buying arid self-satisfaction. 4. Self-satisfaction shows the highest interrelation than any other variations in the concern of clothes. 5. The symbolic images which exerts an influence upon purchasing manner are the notable elements of constituting as growing older. 6. The high standard of education prefers to the rational resonable purchasing, but on the other hand shows a high rate at the unreasonable individual purchasing manner.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.7
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• pp.123-138
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• 2002

This study as one of a series of systematic studies about dancing costumes will compare the costumes of the 16th. 17th century with their normal style of dress. In brief. this study wants people to know about 16th, 17th century court dancing costumes and to understand the culture in the 16th.17th century. From the comparison between the court's dancing costume and the people's clothes, we could get the conclusion as follows. First, pourpoint. chemis, gown, chausses, etc. that people wore were used for the court's dancing costume. While people Pursued the beauty with the ample silhouette. there were used wrinkles. slits. and tailored oblique line-clothes that gave vitality. Second, silk. linen. brocade. etc. that were used for people's chemises were used for the dancing costume. The good quality and beautiful colors of the dancing costume. however. excelled than of the brilliant court's clothes and the people's clothes. Third. the hair style of dancers were very colorful. For example, there were many kinds of hats and furs, corals, etc. that were attached to them on the most of the long curly hair. In summary, for the court's dancing costume, the same type of clothes was used like the people's clothes. There, however, were differences. The slits, tailored oblique line-clothes and shortened skirt gave the activity. There were many decorations symbolizing the nobles' wealth and Power. Especially the use of the decoration of hair and other stake properties was an effective means for expression. The use of personified masks also contributed to the development of the court dance.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.6
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• pp.113-130
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• 2011

Post-Modern Multiculturalism is spreading in many ways and other cultural interest has led to the Latin American culture, which has steadily appeared as the main fashion concept of the international collection. Frida Kahlo(1907-1954), a representative of Latin American culture and a Mexican female surrealistic painter, who gives us some inspiration for contemporary fashion design. The purpose of this study is to have a correct understanding of and research on Latin American culture and to expand the expression of fashion design. In the process, this article examines the costume of Mexico belong to the Indio culture which had been regarded as the Other for a long time and understands Frida Kahlo's fashion style: Tehuanas costume and her masculine style. The Tehuanas costume is a traditional style of the city, Tehuantepec, located in the southeast of Mexico, which is characterized by colorful floral patterns and a long skirt. Three fashion concepts were derived from her fashion style: tradition & modern, love & farewell, and masculine & feminine. The scope of this study investigates the Haute Couture and the Pret-a-porter women's wear collections and photos from 1998 to 2010 in Europe, USA and South America. From classifying the collected photos into each concept, three styles such as ethnic, romantic and androgynous style were derived. These fashion styles were analyzed through the formative elements of dress, color, silhouette, pattern, material and clothing construction in order to figure out how costumes of other cultures influenced on contemporary fashion. As a design inspiration, Frida Kahlo extends her influence into innerwear, accessories and hairstyles, as well as women's wear. These inspirations emerge steadily from the past and far into the future as an expression of a fashion design concept.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.7
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• pp.117-132
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• 2012

This study explored public awareness and donning practices of traditional and religious dresses among Indonesian Muslim. The relevant literature was reviewed first, and in-depth interviews and survey were followed to achieve the purpose of the study. Sarung and Kain Panjang are the most representative unisex traditional clothing of Indonesia. Traditional male dresses include Kemeja Batik, Beskap, Peci(Kopiah) and Blangkon. Traditional female dresses include Kebaya, Baju Kurung, Baju Bodo, Kemben, Rok Batik and Slendang. Baju Koko, Sarung and Peci(Kopiah) are the most well-known Muslim male dress items. Muslim female dresses are more diverse than men's. For traditional and religious dresses, which were identified from literature study, public awareness and donning practices were examined with survey data. Indonesian people consider Kebaya, Sarung, and Batik as the most important traditional dresses which convey national identity. Peci(Kopiah), Baju koko, and Jilbab(Kerudung) are highly mentioned as the representatives of Muslim dresses. Indonesian Muslims report that they own these representative dresses commonly. Peci and Sarung are included both in religious and traditional dresses, demonstrating that the two items are the representative crossovers of their religion and the tradition of the country. For both traditional and Muslim dresses, Indonesian people think that aesthetics and traditional values are more relevant than practical value. Lastly, it is found that traditional dresses are parts of the daily wear of Indonesian people from the fact that they wear traditional dresses more than once a week.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.4 s.113
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• pp.70-80
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• 2007

Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of protecting, expanding and deforming the body. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify transfiguration in fashion design. In order to inquire tile formative style and aesthetic values expressed in transfiguration in fashion, my study examines subjects from the discourse on the body to the fashion collections of the late 20th and 21st century. The results of the study are as follows. Transfiguration signifies absence of body which questions the three dimensional construction of the body in more conventional clothing system. Transfiguration is expressed in non-figural forms which implies metaphorical plasticity and abstract extensity. Transfiguration in fashion stresses a will-to-form rather than mere bodily proportion and structure, which explores trans-extensity that goes beyond the boundary of the body. Ultimately, this phase also betrays the correspondence between signifiant and $signifi\acute{e}$ in sartorial convention. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the form of a dress. Some clothes prioritize the body, particularly the feminine bodily curves, while others focus on the clothing itself as abstract and sculptural forms. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in transfiguration in fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.6
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• pp.69-84
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• 2008

Considering that star reflects the image of current society, analyzing fashion of celebrity is to read ideal type and demands of beauty of the era. Especially the rock music-represents youth culture that last on present day-born in 1960's, and it is considered to a significant decade in pop music history. Thus this research will analysis rock star's fashions in iconological view of E. Panofsky. The aim of this document is Clarifying how the fashion of pop stars appeared and what formed its worth. As a result of analyzing fashions of rock star in 1960's, it is available to find these sameness and difference. The Mods borrowed images of the past, and introduce the elite modernism and shows very urban style. The Folky and the Psychedelic showed post-structuralism propensity against industrial society, in the case of the Folky it induced styles that symbolize labor class to realize social worth. And as an aftereffect of war and repulsion of commercial worth, they embody nature-returning peasant look so that it shows pastoral mood in total. The Psychedelic express somewhat struggling escapism and it generated illusionary images with quests to superego and glorification to psychedelic status. The Folky and the Psychedelic are same in the side of introducing existentialism, this occurred by using ethnic factor. But the Folky showed plain outlook by pop propensity, on the other hand, the Psychedelic showed magnificent outlook such as optical art, pop art, and futurism ought to express merrymaking culture. And common feature of these is introduction of unisex mod which is came after the change of gender role. Thus each star or group has professed special ideology into their culture and it is reflected to acts which is including music and dress style. This affair is analyzed like these two things. The mass of people schemes their identity with inducing special ideology to their culture at the first. And the purpose to archive cultural hegemony in inter-social class at the next.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.67 no.1
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• pp.147-168
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• 2017

This study examines the types and characteristics of women's garments excavated in the early Joseon Dynasty before 1592. The study sorts out headgear, jacket, skirt and trousers, and coats from the historical texts in the early Joseon Dynasty and excavated women's wears in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, and analyzes their textiles and patterns. The Joseon women's garments convey several features. They are wide across the chest and square shaped collar with virtually straight sleeves. While their breast-ties are extremely little for the size of clothes, they do not have any inner-tie. They have broad and short dongjeongs which seem to be hard to be adjusted. There are a variety of headgear. Jang-Jeogori slit down in both sides. The Jeogori after the seventeenth century transformed a more practical form of a fitting dress to an individual body in comparison with the sixteenth jeogori. It is identified that the fabrics in the early Joseon period were woven more diversely and colorfully than the late Joseon period. Most of the excavated fabrics in the sixteenth century were in silk. Materials for adornments before 1592 were not much diverse and their designs mostly contained patterns of lotus flowers, patterns of cloud and treasures with oblique lines. The colors are mainly brown, navy and green. The Joseon women's clothes were comprised of skirts with folded hem, coat with round collars, wide leg pants, Jangot, long-sleeved coat with folding collars, and quadrangular pieces of cloth in various sizes, or mu and so forth. Joseon women's clothes, like men's wears, partake of active functions in their headgears, wide leg pants, styles in short front and long back, and coat with round collars.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.9
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• pp.1429-1441
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• 2010

This study examines the post-national trends of the $21^{st}$ century fashion that has embraced multiculturalism. This study conducted a literature view to explore the concept of multiculturalism and the background of post-national phenomena appearing in contemporary fashion. In addition, as a case study, the author used local and foreign fashion magazines and collections published between 2000 and 2009, in addition to other related materials available on the Internet. The objective was to analyze photographic materials in which post-national features are reflected. From this study, the post-national trends in $21^{st}$ century fashion that adopted multiculturalism are as follows: The first is that oriental culture is more actively embraced. In the past, the tendency of embracing the oriental culture was mainly developed with a focus on China and Japan, but recently the tendency has spread to Southeast Asian countries and national/ethnic minorities that include Mongolians and Tibetans that is present in more active ways that reflect oriental sentiment and philosophy as well as adopts simple images. Second, $21^{st}$ century fashion based on multiculturalism broadens the interest in the understanding of nations in the regions of Africa, Middle East, and South America and uses regional folk costumes or indigenous characteristics to create new things instead of staying within a fixed paradigm. Third, as horizontal transfer is involved in ways of looking at culture, $21^{st}$ century fashion shows a post-national tendency to use regional cultures and folk costumes of the occidental world that includes North and West Europe in addition to non-mainstream regions (as considered so far). Fourth, dress elements of many heterogeneous national cultures are combined to create multinational images difficult to define in terms of a specific national culture or clothing style.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.16 no.3 s.43
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• pp.209-221
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• 1992

A standpoint art's style, present-day Western dress was establishing a systematic, theoritical value in sphere of fine art's meaning & it's expression on the modern fashion. For this reason, I selected Impressionism (a broad senes: be included Impressionism, Neo-Impressionism, Post-Impressionism) that was designated 'the revolution of color'. In the previous paper, 1 already discussed about the modern fashion under the influence of the color of Impressionism, from this study, Neo-Impressionism's techniques & it's influence on the modern fashion was investigated. The Impressionists had purposely used uneven brushwork & a vivid palette to transmit the intensity & immediacy of nature, whereas the Neo-Impressionists utilized methodically applied dots, a technique commonly described as Pointillism, to achieve their rationalist goal of eliminating the fugitive & the casual in order to seize a more fundamental reality. Of all them, Seurat had already become interested in the posible analogies between science, music & psychology on the on hand & art on the other, and scientist's books & articles offered a wealth of theoretical support. 1'articulary, it was corroborated that effects of sadness, calm, or happiness could be achieved through manipulation of color & design. The conclusions are as follow: 1. Through the modern fashion, a space between pattern & pattern was reflected unstable balances & harmonies, that, Neo-Impressionist emphasized the distinction between outdoor & subject, between elaborately clothed & nude figures, corresponded to modern fashion's pattern. 2. The modern fashion was presented a small border or band within the pattern itself which colors complemented those of the adjacent pictorial surface and mediated between the painted image & its enclosure.