• 복식
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• 제60권4호
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• pp.162-178
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to find aesthetic characteristics of Korean and Japanese women's traditional costumes in Modernization that happened in Korea and Japan during the late 19th century and the 20th century. The meaning of modernity has indefinite and comprehensive aspects, and the essence of modernity is found in searching for new changes. Modernization is the process of realizing modernity, and costume modernization can be discussed from the viewpoint of seeking new changes, functionality and popularization of costume. As Korean and Japanese costumes went through modernization, western costume became daily clothes of both two countries. The modernization of Korean and Japanese women's traditional costumes were achieved in the two directions. First, Korean and Japanese women's traditional costumes changed to search for functionality modeled of western costume. Korean costume went through dress reform movement and were generally simplified. Japanese costume made a change of wearing mode and introduced new garment like 'Hakama'. Second, the new style of traditional costume appeared. In Korea, 'Saenghwal Hanbox' was shown in the late 20c and in Japan, The reproduced dress(更生服)' and The women's standard dress(婦人標準服)' were shown in the late 1930's and the early 1940's. These kinds of new garment style were the more active compromise between the East and the West.

• 복식
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• 제56권5호
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• pp.132-149
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to establish the theoretical view for the analysis of the aesthetic characteristics of dress from the viewpoint of oriental aesthetics. Also, this study examined the universality and particularity of aesthetic characteristics in Korean and Japanese women's traditional costumes. To establish the theoretical view for the aesthetic analysis of dress from the viewpoint of oriental aesthetics, this study examined the relationship between the internal spirit of human, culture and the external form of dress. Based on this consideration, the viewpoints for the analysis of dress formation were the 'Form' as the basic structure of the external formation of dress and 'the Ornamentation' as the emphasis of the artistic characteristics of dress. The common world view shared by Korea and Japan holds the thinking system that everything is created from 'not to bee(無)' to 'being(有)'. This view emphasizes the totality and circulation of energy called 'Ki(氣)'. According to this view, oriental culture has been developed by intuition and pleasure called 'Heung(興)'. Therefore, the form of the oriental culture includes ambiguity and emphasizes the total harmony. These characteristics appeared in dress as the design of ambiguity, asymmetry and concealment. The meaning of the ornamentation in oriental world was the unified harmony of diversity and the colors and patterns of oriental dress were used by the symbolic meaning of Yin-Yang & Wu-Shing (陰陽五行)s principles. On the basis of the world view of the Ki, Korean and Japanese women's traditional costumes commonly shared the aesthetic values of concealment, emptiness, and symbolism. Also, their costumes expressed the difference, especially in the ornamentation. Korean costume expressed the beauty of simplicity and naivety, and Japanese costume expressed the beauty of ornamentation and nonornamentatIon.

• 한국복식학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국복식학회 2005년도 International Costume Conference PROCEEDING
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• pp.98-99
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• 2005

• 복식
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• 제54권3호
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• pp.113-127
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to search the spiritual root of decoration and anti-decoration culture in contemporary Japanese fashion and find the aesthetic meanings of the decoration culture inside contemporary Japanese fashion. The contents of this study are 1. surveying the historical change about the aesthetic sense of Japan. decoration culture 2. deducing the distinctive aesthetic ideology from the decoration culture 3. finding esthetically the inside meaning of 1.2. in contemporary Japanese fashion. First, the origin of decoration culture was concerned with the belief in the life after death of the Buddhism culture to represent the noble society of the Heian(평안) period and the religion of paradise after the Middle Ages. Second. this decoration culture based on two aesthetic ideologies, beautiful(염) aesthetics and lofty(숭고) aesthetics. The beautiful aesthetics implies words, such as bewitchment, elegance, dignity and brilliance which stand for the sensual pleasure and the eroticism. The lofty aesthetics that was introduced by TakeTakasi(장고) during the Heian period, had the meaning of magnificence, greatness and dignity. This could be recognized as the Confucianism ideas. Third, as the beautiful aesthetics that was the representative aesthetic ideology of the decoration culture, it was related to splendid and decorative designs, and was recognized as the beauty of brilliance and coquetry. The beauty of brilliance, as a decorative element, appeared in patterns of the traditional costume and dyeing as well as the beauty of coquetry indicated that the women's fashion in Japan had soft, feminine, and cute images, called Hawaii, by using various decorations, such as feminine details, flower patterns. ruffles. ribbons and so on. TakeTakasi's lofty aesthetics applied the beauty of exaggeration to every art form. It has influenced the form exaggeration by overlapping in traditional costumes as well as the 1970s big look and layered look in Europe fashion. Issey Miyake and Takeda Kenzo introduced the decorative play, such as transformation and a distortion, which considered refinement, bluff, and oddity of the Japanese decoration art.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권5호
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• pp.704-716
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• 2008

This study aims to explore the creation of fashion design that embraces the diversity of human culture by examining oriental images that appear in the modern fashion with a focus on new paradigms that significantly affect human life as the latest trends, and by reflecting the trends of the times. The results of this study are as follows: First, this study examined that with regard to paradigm, a theoretical frame to view universe, the dichotomous, determinist, mechanism, linear paradigm collapsed to convert to undetermined, exoteric, pluralistic, indeterministic, organic, and holistic paradigm. The new paradigm is identified to have emerged before and after 1950s, and through the new paradigm, the characteristics of postmodernism such as historicality, popularity, locality, folkways and the characteristics of deconstructionism, internally mutual text, post phenomenon, undeterminability and externally exposure, destruction, poverty, decomposition and analysis, were identified. Second, the Orient is defined as the generic term referring to the entire Asian areas east of Turkey. Through the developmental process of oriental images, it was converted from the Oriental image, which mysteriously and romantically represents oriental elements, into the ethnic image that represents long time oriental traditions and indigenous culture together with the characteristics of the new paradigm. Third, the artistic characteristics of the Oriental costumes presented by Korea, China and Japan are expressed in developmental types, T-type plane structure, layered style, asymmetrical adjustment and easy silhouette, and they show indigenous characteristics of each country, for example, Chinese styles in dragon pattern, red and yellow, Japanese styles in flower design and achromatic color. Fourth, the Oriental Image, combined with the postmodernism and deconstructionism through the new paradigm, has two: one Oriental image highlights traditional elements by creating new Oriental image such as natural image, folk image, hybrid image and deconstruction image; and another is undetermined and vague by combining or decomposing Oriental or Western elements. It is expected that fashion designs that reflect these contexts of the times will contribute to the strengthening of international competitiveness.

• 공연문화연구
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• 제32호
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• pp.209-241
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• 2016

'낭자군(娘子軍')과 더불어 '여성농악'이 탄생했다. 본고에서는 남성들의 전유물이나 다름없던 농악의 주체로서 여성이 등장한 내력, 특히 국극단 출신 여성농악예인의 출현이 주목된다. 이 연구에서는 낭자농악대와 소녀농악대의 활동 내력에 대하여, 새로이 발굴한 기사자료들을 전면에 제시하고 실증적으로 다루었다. 본고에 소개하는 '여성 농악예인'들은 기존에 알려진 남원여성농악단 성립 이전의 여성 농악인들과, 그 이후의 세대들을 아우른다. 여성 특유의 매력을 발산하며 인기를 누린 예인들은 각종 농악경연에 참가하고 포장걸립을 전전했다. 여성농악인들은 우도농악 명인들로부터 전수를 받아 기량을 갖추고, 화려한 복색으로 이목을 끌었다. 농악계의 여성들은 특히 시대의 흐름을 간파하여 활동무대를 넓히고, 다양한 장르와 융합하면서 융통성과 순발력을 발휘했다. 여성 농악인들은 세대와 성별, 지역과 국가의 경계를 넘나들며 활동했다. 소녀부터 기혼녀에 이르기까지 팀원으로 편성될 수 있었고, 때로는 어린 소년들을 영입하거나, 원로 남성농악인들과 연대하기도 했다. 또한 이들은 지역을 넘어, 국내외의 무대를 누비면서, 해외 순방에도 박차를 가했다. 특히 어린 소녀농악인들은 한국문화의 상품성을 선보이고, '순결한 농악예술무대'를 장식하는 문화적 매개자로 동원되기도 했다. 이들은 스스로의 활동에 대한 실리와 경제적 이윤을 추구하거나, 정치적 선동을 할 수 없는 '천사 같이 춤추는 예쁜 인형'이나 다름없었고, 그 후원자는 국내외 정계 인사들이었다. 여성농악인들은 국내외 전반에 걸쳐 각계각층의 인사들과 교류하면서 농악의 저변 확대에 기여했다. 해외로 파견된 소녀들의 농악공연이 대개 어린이들이나 학생들 위주였던 반면, 국내에서 기성세대와 연합하여 공연활동을 하던 소녀들은 그저 농악이 좋아서 여성농악단에 입단하여 기예를 습득하고, 공연하며 실전 경험을 쌓으면서 스스로 입지를 다져갔다. 해방 이후 낭자농악, 소녀농악이라는 이름을 걸고 농악의 무대화를 선도한 여성예인들은 대중적 인지도를 얻어 농악의 저변 확대에 기여했다. 사당패, 협률사, 낭자농악대, 소녀농악대, 여성농악단 등 한 세기를 풍미한 여성 농악예인들은, 농악판에 팽배하던 '남존여비(男尊女卑)'의 관습을 뒤틀고 농악문화의 새 전통을 일군 주인공들이다.