• 복식
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• 제4권
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• pp.87-114
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• 1981

A costume reveals the social characteristics of the era in which it is worn, thus we can say that the history of change of the costume is the history of change of the living culture of the era. Since the Three States era, the costume structure of this country had been affected by the costume system of the China's historical dynasties in the form of the grant therefrom because of geographical conditions, which affection was conspicuous for the bureaucrat class, particularly including but not limited to the Kings' familities. Such a grant of the costume for the bureaucrat class (i.e., official uniform) was first given by the Dang-dynasty at the age of Queen Jinduck, the 28th of the Shilla-dynasty. Since then, the costume for the bureaucrats had consecutively been affected as the ages had gone from the unified Shilla, to the Koryo and to the Yi-dynasty. As the full costumes officially used by government officials (generally called "Baek Gwan") in the Yidynasty, there existed Jo-bok, Gong-bok and Sang-bok. Of such official costumes, Gong-bok was worn at the time of conducting official affairs of the dynasty, making a respectful visit for the expression of thanks or meeting diplomatic missions of foreign countries. It appears no study was made yet with regard to the Gong-bok while the studies on the Jo-bok and the Sangbok were made. Therefore, this article is, by rendering a study and research on the styles of costumes of civil servants' stone images erected at the Kings' tombs of the Yi-dynasty, to help the persons concerned understand the Gong-bok, one of the official costume for Baek Kwan of that age and further purports to specifically identify the styles and changes of the Gong-bok, worn by Baek Gwan during the Yi-dynasty, consisting of the Bok-doo (a hat, four angled and two storied with flat top), Po (gown), Dae (belt), and Hol (small and thin plate which was officially held by the government officials in hand, showing the courtesy to and writing brief memorandums before the King) and Hwa (shoes). For that purpose, I investigated by actually visiting the tombs of the Kings of the Yi-dynasty including the Geonwon-neung, the tomb of the first King Tae-jo and the You-neung, the tomb of the 27th King Soon-jong as well as the tombs of the lawful wives and concubines of various Kings, totalling 29 tombs and made reference to relevant books and records. Pursuant. to this study, of the 29 Kings' tombs the costume styles of civil servants' stone images erected at the 26 Kings' tombs are those of Gong-bok for Baek-gwan of the Yi-dynasty wearing Bok-doo as a hat and Ban-ryeong or Dan-ryenog Po as a gown with Dae, holding Hol in hand and wearing shoes. Other than those of the 26 tombs, the costume styles of the Ryu-neung, the tomb of the Moon-jo who was the first son of 23rd King Soon-jo and given the King's title after he died and of the You-neung, the tomb of the 27th King Soon-jong are those of Jobok with Yang-gwan (a sort of hat having stripes erected, which is different from the Bok-doo), and that of the Hong-neung, the tomb of the 26th King Go-jong shows an exceptional one wearing Yang-gwan and Ban-ryeong Po ; these costume styles other than Gongbok remain as the subject for further study. Gong-bok which is the costume style of civil servants' stone images of most of the Kings' tombs had not been changed in its basic structure for about 500 years of the Yi-dynasty and Koryo categorized by the class of officials pursuant to the color of Po and materials of Dae and Hol. Summary of this costume style follows: (1) Gwan-mo (hat). The Gwan-mo style of civil servants' stone images of the 26 Kings' tombs, other than Ryu-neung, Hong-neung and You-neung which have Yang-gwan, out of the 29 Kings' tombs of the Yi-dynasty reveals the Bok-doo with four angled top, having fore-part and back-part divided. Back part of the Bok-doo is double the fore-part in height. The expression of the Gak (wings of the Bokdoo) varies: the Gyo-gak Bok-doo in that the Gaks, roundly arisen to the direction of the top, are clossed each other (tombs of the Kings Tae-jong), the downward style Jeon-gak Bok-doo in that soft Gaks are hanged on the shoulders (tombs of the Kings Joong-jong and Seong-jong) and another types of Jeon-gak Bok-doo having Gaks which arearisen steeply or roundly to the direction of top and the end of which are treated in a rounded or straight line form. At the lower edge one protrusive line distinctly reveals. Exceptionally, there reveals 11 Yang-gwan (gwan having 11 stripes erected) at the Ryu-neung of the King Moon-jo, 9 Yang-gwan at the Hong-neung of the King Go-jong and 11 Yang-gwan at the You-neung of the King Soon-jong; noting that the Yang-gwan of Baek Kwan, granted by the Myeong-dynasty of the China during the Yi-dynasty, was in the shape of 5 Yang-gwan for the first Poom (class) based on the principle of "Yideung Chaegang" (gradual degrading for secondary level), the above-mentioned Yang-gwans are very contrary to the principle and I do not touch such issue in this study, leaving for further study. (2) Po (gown). (a) Git (collar). Collar style of Po was the Ban-ryeong (round collar) having small neck-line in the early stage and was changed to the Dan-ryeong (round collar having deep neck-line) in the middle of the: dynasty. In the Dan-ryeong style of the middle era (shown at the tomb of the King Young-jo); a, thin line such as bias is shown around the internal side edge and the width of collar became wide a little. It is particularly noted that the Ryu-neung established in the middle stage and the You-neung in the later stage show civil servants in Jo-bok with the the Jikryeong (straight collar) Po and in case of the Hong-neung, the Hong-neung, the tomb of the King Go-jong, civil servants, although they wear Yang-gwan, are in the Ban-ryeong Po with Hoo-soo (back embroidery) and Dae and wear shoes as used in the Jo-bok style. As I could not make clear the theoretical basis of why the civil servants' costume styles revealed, at these tombs of the Kings are different from those of other tombs, I left this issue for further study. It is also noted that all the civil servants' stone images show the shape of triangled collar which is revealed over the Godae-git of Po. This triangled collar, I believe, would be the collar of the Cheomri which was worn in the middle of the Po and the underwear, (b) Sleeve. The sleeve was in the Gwan-soo (wide sleeve) style. having the width of over 100 centimeter from the early stage to the later stage arid in the Doo-ri sleeve style having the edge slightly rounded and we can recognize that it was the long sleeve in view of block fold shaped protrusive line, expressed on the arms. At the age of the King Young-jo, the sleeve-end became slightly narrow and as a result, the lower line of the sleeve were shaped curved. We can see another shape of narrow sleeve inside the wide sleeve-end, which should be the sleeve of the Cheom-ri worn under the Gong-bok. (c) Moo. The Moo revealed on the Po of civil servants' stone images at the age of the King Sook-jong' coming to the middle era. Initially the top of the Moo was expressed flat but the Moo was gradually changed to the triangled shape with the acute top. In certain cases, top or lower part of the Moo are not reveald because of wear and tear. (d) Yeomim. Yeomim (folding) of the Po was first expressed on civil servants' stone images of the Won-neung, the tomb of the King Young-jo and we can seemore delicate expression of the Yeomim and Goreum (stripe folding and fixing the lapel of the Po) at the tomb of the Jeongseong-wanghoo, the wife of the King Young-jo, At the age of the King Soon-jo, we can see the shape of Goreum similar to a string rather than the Goreum and the upper part of the Goreum which fixes Yeomim was expressed on the right sleeve. (3) Dae. Dae fixed on the Po was placed half of the length of Po from the shoulders in the early stage. Thereafter, at the age of the King Hyeon-jong it was shown on the slightly upper part. placed around one third of the length of Po. With regard to the design of Dae, all the civil servants' stone images of the Kings' tombs other than those of the Geonwon-neung of the King Tae-jo show single or double protrusive line expressed at the edge of Dae and in the middle of such lines, cloud pattern, dangcho (a grass) pattern, chrysanthemum pattern or other various types of flowery patterns were designed. Remaining portion of the waist Dae was hanged up on the back, which was initially expressed as directed from the left to the right but thereafter expressed. without orderly fashion,. to the direction of the left from the right and vice versa, Dae was in the shape of Yaja Dae. In this regard, an issue of when or where such a disorderly fashion of the direction of the remaining portion of waist Dae was originated is also presented to be clarified. In case of the Ryuneung, Hong-neung and You-neung which have civil servants' stone images wearing exceptional costume (Jo-bok), waist Dae of the Ryu-neung and Hong-neung are designed in the mixture of dual cranes pattern, cosecutive beaded pattern and chrvsenthemum pattern and that of You-neung is designed in cloud pattern. (4) Hol. Although materials of the Hol held in hand of civil servants' stone images are not identifiable, those should be the ivory Hol as all the Baek Gwan's erected as stone images should be high class officials. In the styles, no significant changes were found, however the Hol's expressed on civil servants' stone images of the Yi-dynasty were shaped in round top and angled bottom or round top and bottom. Parcicularly, at the age of the King Young-jo the Hol was expressed in the peculiar type with four angles all cut off. (5) Hwa (shoes). As the shoes expressed on civil servants' stone images are covered with the lower edges of the Po, the styles thereof are not exactly identifiable. However, reading the statement "black leather shoes for the first class (1 Poom) to ninth class (9 Poom)," recorded in the Gyeongkook Daejon, we can believe that the shoes were worn. As the age went on, the front tips of the shoes were soared and particularly, at the Hong-neung of the King Go-jong the shoes were obviously expressed with modern sense as the country were civilized.

• 생물환경조절학회지
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• 제5권2호
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• pp.215-235
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• 1996

본 연구에서 수행한 Model 시뮬레이션에 의한 열환경 분석 기법은 지역별로 다양한 기상여건 하에서 대상온실의 난방 및 냉방부하를 보다 합리적으로 예측할 수 있을 뿐만 아니라 냉방이나 난방용 시스템의 결정을 비롯한 난방대책을 수립하고, 에너지 이용 전략의 수립이나 계절적인 작부계획 수립, 온실산업용 적지선정 등에 유익하게 활용될 수 있을 것이라 판단된다. 본 연구에서는 온실의 적극적인 환경조절 유형을 난방과 냉방의 두 가지로 대별하고, 난방 소요열량 산정을 비롯하여 야간의 보온 커튼효과, Heating Degree-Hour 산정 등 난방과 관련된 시뮬레이션은 동적 모형을 이용하여 시간별, 일별 및 월별로 검토하였으며, 환기를 비롯한 차광, 증발냉각시스템의 효과 분석은 정적모형을 이용하여 검토하였다. 특히 하절기 지하수와 같은 저온수를 직접 이용하거나 Heat Pump를 통하여 확보될 수 있는 저온수를 이용하여 온실의 피복면에 살수함으로서 확보할 수 있는 온실냉방효과를 검토하는 데는 1.2m$\times$2.4m 크기의 모형온실을 제작하여 기초실험을 수행함으로서 동절기의 수막시스템의 보온효과와 마찬가지로 하절기 냉방 효과를 거둘 수 있다는 가능성을 확인하였다. 본 연구에 활용된 온실의 수치 환경모형 중 난방관련 시뮬레이션용 동적 수치모형은 소기의 목적을 달성하는데 충분히 응용될 수 있는 이론모형이다. 이 이론모형이 범용성이 높은 것은 온실 내ㆍ외의 미기상 변화, 특히 난방이나 냉방이 본격적으로 요구되는 기간동안에 온도, 습도, 일사, 풍속 등의 미기상 인자들을 면밀하게 관찰하여 실측된 자료를 바탕으로 개발되었고, 다양한 자료에 의해 충분히 검정되었기 때문이다. 본 연구에서는 경남 진주지역의 어느 특정 기간(1987년)의 시간별 기상자료를 중심으로 온실의 열적 환경변화에 대한 수치모형 시뮬레이션을 실시하였으며, 아직 수치모형에 의한 시뮬레이션이 불가능한 일부 냉방효과를 검토하는 데는 모형 실험을 실시하였으며, 그 결과를 요약하면 다음과 같다. 1. 주간과 야간의 설정온도를 달리하고 다단계 변온조절방식으로 시뮬레이션을 행한 결과 난방 소요열량은 난방 설정온도에 따라 현저한 차이를 보였다. 특히 주간 설정온도에 비하여 야간 설정온도가 난방 소요열량에 예민하게 영향을 미치므로 야간의 설정온도 결정에 신중을 기해야 할 것으로 판단된다. 2. 기존의 Heating Degree-Hour 자료는 평균 외기온을 중심으로 임의의 설정온도에 대하여 산정된 값이므로 난방 소요열량에 대한 상대적인 비교수단은 되나 고려되는 기상인자의 제한과 설정온도의 임의성 때문에 실용성이 부족하다. 따라서 본 연구에서 제시된 것처럼 온실 주변의 제반 미기상 인자나 경계조건이 반영됨은 물론 작물의 생육상태 및 구체적인 설정온도까지도 고려하는 동적 수치모형으로 시시각각으로 예측된 실내기온을 중심으로 재배기간 동안의 난방열량을 적산함이 합리적이라 판단된다. 기존의 MDH 자료로 난방 설계를 할 경우에는 지나치게 과잉설계 될 가능성이 있다. 3. 산정된 난방 소요열량은 물론 커튼의 보온성능도 월별 기상여건에 따라 현저한 차이를 보이며, 시뮬레이션에 이용된 커튼의 경우 높은 보온효과를 보임으로서 년 평균 50% 이상의 난방 에너지를 절감할 수 있으며, 동절기 3-4개월의 집중 난방기에 에너지가 크게 절감됨을 발견할 수 있다. 4. 고온기 환기성능은 온실의 구조, 기상조건, 작물의 생육상태 등에 따라 다소의 차이가 있으나 환기율에 의해 크게 좌우되며, 시뮬레이션에 이용된 두 가지 농가보급형 온실 모두 환기율의 증가에 따른 실내기온의 강하 효과가 환기율이 1회/min 정도를 넘어서면서 급격히 둔화되는 현상을 보인다. 이는 기존에 권장되고 있는 적정 환기율인 1회/min 전후의 환기 시스템을 갖추는 것이 합리적임을 확인해 준다. 5. 작물이 성숙된 유리온실에서 외기의 상대습도가 50%인 쾌청한 주간동안 연속적으로 1회/min로 환기를 시킬 경우 실내기온 36.5$^{\circ}C$의 대조구에 비한 온도강하는 50% 차광만 했을 시 2.6$^{\circ}C$이고 효율 80%의 Pad ＆ Fan 시스템만 작동시 6.1$^{\circ}C$ 정도이며, 차광과 냉각시스템을 동시에 작동시는 약 8.6$^{\circ}C$로서 외기온보다 3.3$^{\circ}C$가 낮은 28$^{\circ}C$까지 실내온도를 낮출 수 있으나, 동일 조건하에서 외기의 상대습도가 80%로 높은 경우에는 Pad ＆ Fan시스템에 의한 온도강하가 2.4$^{\circ}C$에 불과하여 50% 차광하에서도 외기온 이하로 실내온도를 낮출 수 없음을 알 수 있다. 6. 하절기 3개월(6/1-8/31)동안 Pad ＆ Fan 시스템의 냉방효과($\Delta$T)는 설정된 작동 온도에 따라 다소 차이를 보일 것으로 예상되나 본 시뮬레이션에서 설정한 시스템의 작동 온도 27$^{\circ}C$에서 상대습도와의 상관관계는 대략 다음과 같았다: $\Delta$T= -0.077RH＋7.7 7. 전형적인 하절기 주간기상 하에서 경시적 냉방효과를 분석한 결과 환기만으로는 실내기온을 외기온 보다 5$^{\circ}C$ 높게 유지하는 정도가 고작이고, 차광이나 증발식 냉방시스템 만으로는 작물이 성숙한 단계에서조차도 외기온 이하로 떨어뜨리기가 어려우나 차광과 아울러 증발식 냉방을 병행할 경우에는 작물상태에 따라 다소 차이는 있지만 실내기온을 외기온보다 2.0-2.3$^{\circ}C$ 낮게 유지할 수 있음을 발견할 수 있다. 8. 일사가 차단된 27.5-28.5$^{\circ}C$의 외기온하에서 6.5-8.5$^{\circ}C$의 냉수를 온실 바닥면적 1$m^2$당 1.3 liter/min의 유량으로 온실표면에 살수했을 때 실내기온을 외기온보다 1$0^{\circ}C$ 낮은 16.5-18.$0^{\circ}C$ 정도로 낮출 수 있었다. 앞으로 살수 수온(T$_{w}$ )이나 외기온(T$_{o}$ ) 뿐만아니라 살수율(Q)에 따라 온실기온 (T$_{g}$ )에 미치는 상관 관계 T$_{g}$ = f(T$_{w}$ , Q, T$_{o}$ )를 구명하여 지하수 자체 또는 Heat Pump를 이용한 지하수온 이하의 냉수로 온실냉방의 가능성을 구명하는 것이 앞으로의 과제이다.