• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.125-136
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• 2018

This study classified and analyzed the assignments for the Hanbok skill contests between 1998 and 2017 so that the Korean hanbok can be properly passed down. this study proposes a variety of useful values for the Hanbok culture industry by providing basic data on various Hanbok making techniques to the Hanbok artisan. The results of the analysis of 39 assignments for the Hanbok skill contest are as follows. Firstly, The 20 assignments presented in the Local Skills Competitions consisted of 13 tasks (65%) in formal wear and 7 tasks (35%) in casual wear. Formal wear is mainly comprised of men's and children's wear (85.7%). There are Pungcha Baji, Sagusam, Kkachi Durumagi, Jeonbok & Bokgeon, Durumagi, and others on the formal wear of men'schildren's wear. In casual wear, 66.7% of women's wear such as scarves, skirts, jeogori, Hwejang Jeogori & chima were on the list of assignments. Secondly, All of the 19 assignments presented in the National Skills Competitions were in adult suits. Thirteen tasks (68.4%) were in formal wear and 6 tasks (31.6%) were in casual wear. Nine out of the 13 formal wear tasks (69.2%) were men's clothes. In 6 assignments of the casual wear, men's and women's clothes were presented three times each. Formal wear that had many assignments was the men's Chulik, which was presented three times in 2006, 2008 and 2016. Thirdly, Eighteen (90%) of the 20 assignments presented at the Local Skills Competitions were for lined clothes, and the remaining 2 (10%) were for unlined clothes. Eleven tasks (57.9%) out of the 19 assignments presented in the National Skills Competitions were for lined clothes, and 8 tasks (42.1%) were for unlined clothes.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.29-47
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• 2018

This study aims at looking into women's costume style seen in 18th century to 19th century, and reason out a major decoration, then the formative and aesthetic characteristics of the decoration were analyzed. Research results are same as follows. Firstly, the style of women's costumes in the 18th and 19th century includes the Rococo style, Polonaise style, Neo-classic style, Romantic style and Bustle-style. The main decorations shown in these styles are the gather pleats drape of Fold decoration, the flat embroidery quilting of embroidery decoration, and the ribbon braid fringe button feather and fur of attachment decoration. Secondly, the analyzed results found the formative and aesthetic characteristics of the decoration in the 18th and 19th century women's costumes. Fold decorations appeared as a voluminous property in the form of gown mantua jacket pelisse and dress. Especially, femininity and exaggeration were expressed through greatly inflated skirts. Embroidery decoration appeared as planarity by making patterns of gown mantua jacket stomacher overskirt coat dress shawl and dolman. Especially, exaggeration and extravagance were expressed through embroidered mantua surfaces with peony rose poppy primrose daffodil morning glory tulip leaf and lattice patterns in variety of colored silk threads. Attachment decorations were mixed with elements of heterogeneity added to jackets, coats, gowns, petticoats, stomachers, mantuas, pelisses, mantles, dolmans, capes, overskirts and dresses. In particular, exaggeration and extravagance strongly expressed through the decoration with white fox fur at the hemline, neckline and sleeves of cream colored silk dolman.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.37-45
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• 2006

Jean Paul Gaultier, debuted in 1970's and referred to as a bad boy in Paris fashion industry with his abnormal and ingenious ideas such as skirts for men, underwear outfit, etc, is a leading fashion designer. This study nay find its meaning from the fact that this study defines how the voluptuous beauty, one of the figurative beauties inherent in Jean Paul Gaultier's design, expresses in the movie costume and understands the world of the designer's fashion to provide a foundation to fashion designers who are looking for a new area where they can actively involve in. For the study, the 'The Fifth Element (1997)', in which the voluptuous beauty, Jean Paul Gaultier's representative figurative beauty, is fully revealed, and also it is his latest movie he participated in as costume designer, was selected and costume design is analyzed using DVD screen capture program. Also, this study reviewed his design with his collections from 1997 when he was invited to Haute Couture and began to actively perform his works down to date and also referred to numerous materials, fashion magazines, movie magazines, Internet data and etc. From the results of analyzing Jean Paul Gaultier collections, firs, the beauty he is pursuing is projected broadly in three types- the voluptuous beauty from clothing innovation, the voluptuous beauty from unpolished nature, the voluptuous beauty from exposure. Second, the movie ${\ulcorner}$The Fifth Element${\lrcorner}$ is well revealed the world of Jean Paul Gaultier's art presenting visual amusement and variety of attractions. Finally, the results of analyzing costume by characters say that the clothing innovation and the voluptuous beauty from exposure on Leeloo's costume, the voluptuous beauty from exposure on Korben Dallas's costume, the voluptuous beauty from unpolished nature on Zorg and Ruby Rhod's costumes are well shown respectively.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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• v.9 no.7
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• pp.171-183
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• 2009

The spiritual world of the ancient times has precious values which forms the origin of human thought. This study aims to reevaluate ancient people's particular views on man in their spiritual world reflected through gods' ornaments by studying the human race's fundamental spiritual world gradually disappearing due to science development from Egyptian gods' ornaments expressed symbolically in Ancient mythical components. Although evidently ornaments in Egypt served for decoration, the basic purpose was exorcism as amulets, a shamanistic purpose to be protected from mystical and hostile powers by carrying them on the vulnerable spots of the body. As this aspect indicates, the human race tried to solve their self-insoluble transcendental issues through the help of supernatural power, pursuing to lead their lives there within. As a result, Egyptian ornaments; First, the deity raised their value by deifying human-beings. Second, the nobility enhanced their dignity by having goddesses wear the same skirts as theirs. Thirds, all deities maintained their class society by wearing fpassiums, bracelets, and anklets. Fourth, the resurrection was symbolized through gods and goddesses in charge of the afterlife.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.89-103
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristics of accordion pleats shown in 10/11 S/S London, Paris, New York collection and evaluate the differences of visual image by variations in the width of pleats and the length of the accordion pleats skirt. The stimuli are 21 samples: 7 variations of the width of pleats and 3 variations of the length of skirt. The data has been obtained from 43 fashion design majors. The data has been analyzed by Factor Analysis, Anova, Scheffe's Test. The results of the study are as follows: Accordion pleats was first introduced by Marriano Fortuny. He published delphos dress by creating silk pleats manufacturing technique and it was recognized as the best pleats work. Since then, pleats with synthetic fiber characteristics were used by many fashion designers. Accordion pleats were used in various items including one-peice, skirt and pants in collection of 2010 and 2011. The design of accordion pleats skirt used different width of pleats, length of the skirt and materials. The visual image by the width of pleats and the length of skirt are composed of 3 factors : dearness, attractiveness and elegance. In these factors, dearness factor is estimated by the most important factor. The accordion p1eats skirt is most attractive and dear when the width of pleats is the shortest, 1/8", and the width of 4/8" and 5/8" follows. The accordion pleats skirt is most attractive and dear when the length of skirt is similar to that of mini-skirt, and the skirt was estimated to be elegant as the skirt gets longer. When the length of skirt is in between, the skirts were estimated to be ambiguous in all visual images. The interaction effect of visual image according to the changes in width of pleats and skirt length of accordion pleats skirt was seemed to have significant differences by factors, and the main effect had great differences in all factors.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.15-32
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• 2020

This study aims to develop contemporary fashion designs from the unique Yao minority costumes and to explore the possibility of developing creative designs by using knitting materials. The research method is based on the cultural clothing and costumes of the Chinese ethnic minority, as well as literature concerning the Yao costumes and photo data to investigate the cultural background and characteristics apparent in Yao costumes. The overall design characteristics of Yao costumes are as follows. First, the shape of Yao costumes are divided into straight-lined short tops with pleated skirts or shorts, or cardigan tops with pants and aprons, or long shirts, pants, and a belt. Each variant of tribal clothing is different. Second, the colors used are mainly black or dark blue, and these are accented by other colors, such as red, orange, yellow, green, blue, and white. Third, the clothing patterns are mainly in plant, animal, natural, geometric, and human, etc. motifs. The most common patterns in daily life are the patterns using geometric shapes, plants, or animals. Using the background of the unique lifestyles of the Yao ethnic minority, this study applied hand knitting and jacquard techniques for a knit fashion design. In order to develop traditional patterns, Yao patterns were entered into an Illustrator and SDS-ONE APEX3-4 was used for simulation. Using wool fibers as the raw material; the knitting machine used a Bird's eye Jacquard technique-10GG. The results of this research and design work were as follows. First, the knitted clothing design using Yao clothing elements has significance for the development and flexible use of ethnic elements in contemporary creative design. Second, the straight cut design using hand-knitted and jacquard-knit fabrics can minimize waste materials and provide more possibilities for sustainable design development. Third, it provides additional methods for the combination of hand-knitting and jacquard knitting fashion design.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.137-149
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• 2020

The purpose of this study is to identify the perception of New-Hanbok Skirts that female consumers have and to analyze the design preference based on the analysis of designs of skirt products currently in distribution. Based on the analysis of the New-Hanbok brand website, the research was conducted through a survey of 355 women in their 20s and older. The survey consisted of 24 questions which were divided into pattern, color, material, and recognition type questions. The research results are as follows. First, most adult women answered that a New-Hanbok skirt is appropriate to wear at a holiday, anniversary, or outer dress for the spring and autumn seasons, and the design is the most important thing when considering buying. However, the ratios of wearing experience and possession were very low. Second, the preferred design aspects of a New-Hanbok skirt were the Jarak-skirt or Deot-skirt, calf-length, 5cm width of the waistband, 3cm uniform crease, a normal length waistband, bright neutral colors, and a waistband in different colors. For the double skirt, the design that shows 4cm of lining fabric and the different colors of upper fabric was the most preferred. The most preferred material was plain cotton. On the other hand, small floral patterns were preferred for patterned materials, and opaque upper fabric was most preferred for the double skirt. Through this study, it was confirmed that the Hanbok is seen as a positive aspect for modern consumers.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.43-59
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• 2010

In the first half of 20th century, there was an abrupt change in society and social values. Therefore, a demand for functional women's sportswear started to increase. This paper has attempted to investigate the impact of functionalism on women's sportswear in the first half of the 20th century. The following results were obtained: First, anti-tradition was observed. There was a tendency to be separated from the past and against tradition. It was tried to pursue freedom, getting away from corset and petticoat. Second, structural functions were targeted. In other words, precise and efficient shapes and simple silhouette and line were emphasized. Third, fitness of purpose was found. More liberal and comfortable design has been targeted. That's why a variety of functional pants have been designed instead of skirts. Fourth, utility and practicality were found. Elastic fabrics such as wool and jersey and sweater have commonly used in sportswear. A variety of new fabrics have been used and details such as flare, slit and pleats have been designed. Lastly, non-ornamentality was found. The beauty of simple shape was pursued by omitting details or eliminating unnecessary ornaments. Monochrome and dark color were preferred and a use of accessories has declined. The result of this paper could be used in establishing a theoretical framework on the impact on social change, values and art and helpful In modern women's sportswear design and marketing which have become more important.

• The Korea Journal of Herbology
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.169-172
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• 2009

Objectives : The purpose of this study is to discuss ginseng properties by historical research. Methods : Historical documentary records of ginseng were used to develop this review. Results : According to the historical research, the first Korean ginseng cultivation started from the Koryo Dynasty around A.D. 1000. Later, during the Chosun Dynasty around A.D. 1500$\sim$1600, the ginseng cultivators established a method of cultivation. Gasam (cultivated ginseng) was cultivated ginseng on the skirts of their domicile. It was reported that Gasam cultivation was broadened throughout the country around A.D. 1790 on Cheongjosilrok. On the other hand, ginseng properties were reported slightly cool in the oriental herbal medicine books from A.D. 250 to A.D. 1600. But, they were reported slightly warm or warm after A.D. 1600. Korean ginseng cultivation started in the Koryo Dynasty around A.D. 1000. Later, during the Chosun Dynasty, the ginseng cultivators established a standard method of cultivation. Gasam, cultivated ginseng, was grown on the outskirts of their domicile. It was reported that Gasam cultivation was broadened throughout the country around 1790 A.D. in Cheongjosilrok. On the other hand, ginseng properties were reported slightly cool in the oriental herbal medicine books from 250 to A.D. 1600, but they were reported slightly warm or warm after A.D. 1600. Conclusions : It suggests that ginseng properties (slightly cool) before A.D. 1600 are wild ginseng. Also, wood-grown ginseng and ginseng properties (slightly warm, warm) after A.D. 1600 are Gasams.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.62-75
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• 2020

In this study, clothing items recorded in Nappyemulmok (納幣物目) and Ugwimulmok (于歸物目) in the early 20th century were examined. These clothing items were recorded on the lists of goods for wedding gifts from the 1910s to the 1930s. A large quantity of these lists were organized into eight categories by analyzing the fabrics of each item of clothing. Representative fabrics used for skirts and Jeogori (such as Myeongju, 明紬) were used widely. Jeoksam was mostly made with ramie fabric. Pants mostly used cotton such as Dangmok, Mumyung, and calico, with some use of silk. Gojaengi mostly used cotton such as Dangmok, Mumyung, and calico, with some use of ramie. Danui (單衣) used silk fabrics such Pparinseu, Myeongju, and Gyoju for decorative features that were revealed when rolled up. Naeui (內衣) is believed to be the closest underclothes to the body, and Mumyung was mostly used. Dangmok and calico were used for the Yodae (腰帶) and fabrics such as silk, Nobangju, and JuhangNa were used for outdoor use. This type of categorization is significant, as it can be used as academic evidence to verify and reproduce the clothing of the time by identifying fabrics, colors, and characteristics of certain items of clothing. Lastly, it is expected that the analysis of clothing will provide theoretical data in the same way that movies, dramas, and museum exhibitions feature modern traditional weddings.