• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제14권4호
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• pp.629-634
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• 2012

Knitted fabric using acrylic/wool blended yarn (A/W) is increasingly used in the knit industry; subsequently, research on knitted fabric using A/W has increased. This study presents an scientific database from evaluating physical properties of $1{\times}1$ rib stitch using A/W. In this study,$1{\times}1$ rib stitch using A/W were made at various knitting tensions (dial no. 2-6) and the number (4-6) of ply yarn. The physical properties of $1{\times}1$ rib stitch using A/W were measured and analyzed. The density was in the range 5.5-6.4 wales/cm and 4.0-5.6 courses/cm, respectively. The density increased when less plying yarns and more knitting tension were added during knitting. The thickness was in the range of 1.592-2.362 mm and the tensile strength was in the range 32.75-53.63 Kgf/mm. The burst strength was in the range 107.8-139.2 $N/cm^2$. Thickness, tensile strength, and burst strength increased as the number of ply yarn and the knitting tension increased. The elongation and the recovery extension rate were in the range 102.29-112.13% and 96.4-97.7%, respectively. The heat retention rate was in the range 59.3-65.1%. There was no difference of the elongation and the recovery extension rate and the heat retention rate by the knitting tension and the number of the ply yarn. The permeability was in the range 170.5-396.3 $cm^3/cm^2/sec$. Air permeability decreased as the number of ply yarn and the knitting tension increased. The pilling properties were excellent for all $1{\times}1$ rib stitches.

• 복식
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• 제45권
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• pp.85-102
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is reviewing and researching the origins of knitwear the history of patterned knits. Aithough historians know little about the origins of knitting many believe it was practiced as early as the 4th century by nomads roaming North Africa. later Arab raders adopted the craft which helped then while away the hours as they traveled across deserts in camel carabans, Its origins lie in the need for close-fitting and elasticated covering for the body in particular the head hand and feet. it first developed in the Mediterranean countries and later in Central and particularly Northern Europe. Early evidence of multicolored knitting is said to date back to the Egyptian Copts of 600-800 A.D. medieval knitting is developed through the Church and monastery. The increasing demand for knitted products already observable in the fourteenth and fifteenth centries and the number of preserved knitted articles increases inexcavated materialos from Europe. The improvements in technique stimulated the developement of the hand knitting industry in the early sixteenth century. The best-known source of production is the guild organization and their mass production consisted of the carpets cushion coverings and other small items for furnishing interiors but mainly of clothing. The demand for knitted goods was such that in the late sixteenth century it was mechanised, The knitting frame invented in 1589 by William Lee English priest was the most perfect machine of this period. The mass production of fully-fashioned and seamless garments in the late nineteenth and twentieth century was dangerously competitve to traditionally woven and sewn cloth in. As fashions changed knitwear has had an almost continuous ruse in public favour and the popularity of sports has encourage the fashion for flexible easy-fitting and absorbent garments.

• 한국융합학회논문지
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• 제12권10호
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• pp.19-25
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• 2021

본 연구는 니팅머신을 이용한 니트 커스터마이징 웹 사이트 개발 작업을 2년 반 동안 실시한 후 도출된 결과물을 담고 있다. 최근 패션계에서는 커스터마이징을 활용한 다양한 서비스를 제공하고 있으며, 니트 또한 니팅머신을 활용하여 사용자가 직접 디자인할 수 있는 기기가 개발되고 있다. 그러나 기존의 니팅머신용 웹 사이트는 일정한 사용성이나 레이아웃이 제공되지 않아 사용자가 오픈소스와 커스터마이징 디자인을 이용하는 것에 어려움이 있다. 따라서 본 연구는 니팅머신을 이용하여 니트 커스터마이징 서비스를 이용하게 될 사용자에게 사용편의성을 제공하는 웹 사이트 개발을 목적으로 진행되었다. 연구 방법으로는 니트 커스터마이징 웹 사이트 개발 작업을 위해 진행된 연구들을 종합하여 1차 사용성 평가를 진행하였다. 연구 결과 초기 커스텀 화면과 초기 출력 화면의 문제점을 찾았으며, 편의성, 직관성, 가독성 부분을 개선하였다. 수정된 웹사이트를 대상으로 2차 사용성 평가를 진행하여 문제점이 보완된 것을 확인 하였다. 본 연구에서 최종적으로 도출된 웹 사이트를 통해 국내 니트 시장의 새로운 플랫폼의 대중화와 커스터마이징 웹사이트의 사용성 향상을 기대한다.

• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.630-643
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• 2020

최근 소비자들은 스스로 원하는 물건을 만드는 소비자이자 생산자로 역할이 바뀌고 있다. 현대의 소비 방식에 따라 의류 생산 방식도 변화의 필요성이 대두되고 있다. 니팅머신도 그 중 하나로, 대량생산 기기였지만 소규모로 어디서나 옷을 제작할 수 있는 기기가 개발되었다. 니트 제작은 다른 의류 디자인보다 고려해야하는 부분이 많아 니트 제작 프로그램의 사용성에 관한 개선이 필요하지만, 아직 일반 대중이 사용하기에는 어려움이 있음을 발견했다. 이에 본 연구에서는 니팅머신을 이용한 의류 제작 사이트의 웹 사용성을 평가할 수 있는 평가항목을 제안하고자한다. 이를 위해 현재 사용되고 있는 니팅머신용 프로그램과 커스터마이징 상품 제작 웹사이트의 사례와 사이트 별 UI를 조사 분석 하였다. 이러한 선행 조사를 바탕으로 평가항목 초안을 도출하고, 초안을 기반으로 3차례의 델파이 조사를 실시하여 항목의 분류, 수정, 삭제의 과정을 거쳐 평가도구를 제작했다. 최종 평가도구 제작 후 각 항목을 8개의 구성요소로 그룹화하여 니팅 커스터마이징 웹사이트만의 특화된 영역을 탐구했다. 그 결과 니트 디자인 과정을 담아낼 수 있는 UI에 관한 항목이 특징적으로 나타났다. 따라서 본 연구를 통해 향후 니팅머신용 커스터마이징 상품제작 웹사이트의 사용성 향상과 이를 통한 니팅머신의 대중화를 기대한다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권6호
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• pp.1059-1067
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• 2009

The knitting method of the sleeves for improving movement adaptability were studied in this paper. The purpose of this study is proposing a knitting method that is suitable for the bodies of women in their 20's and can enhance wearing satisfaction. To see the effect of the bind-off length at the axilla, a movement adaptability test was undertaken for 4 samples that have bind-off at bodices. In addition to that, the analysis of their sliding distance with respect to the human motions were executed. The results of this study were listed below. Its result was that the samples with small bind-off lengths represent better wearing satisfaction than the samples which have large bind-off lengths. The comparison of the sliding distances at the hem, waist and sleeves with respect to the tester's motions also shows that the sample having small bind-off makes better result than the sample with large bind-off. It was observed that the optimal length of bind-off was 2cm for the improvement of the sleeve functionality.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제16권3호
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• pp.425-431
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to observe the changes of skirt length of knitted flare skirts when the seamless test garments were made which had been having full shape while being knitted and to change and amend the challenges in advance when those were knitted. For this study, I made 6 kinds of knitted test garments of wool 100% yarn with seamless knitting machine, which differed from each other by skirt angles ($90^{\circ},\;180^{\circ}$) and gauges (7G, 12G, 15G), and then I measured deflection changes of their length for 2 weeks. Findings and conclusions drawn from this study were as follows: First, the side seam line of full shape hecame somewhat longer than center. Second, 7G and $180^{\circ}$ knitted flare skirt showed the biggest length deflection changes. Third, there was no difference at rear waist deflection changes between front pattern and rear. Fourth, it was difficult to control the tensions of right and left strings as to the knitting directions.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제14권4호
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• pp.113-125
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• 2012

This study, as one on the neck design of seamless knitwears, set out to make experimental clothes applying various knitting methods to the hem of round neck, seek the knitting methods of finishing touches on the ending part of round neck to enhance function and aesthetic appreciation through measuring tensile strength and assessing wearing sensation, and provide basic data that would be of practical help to developing the design of seamless knitwears and mass production in the national knit industry. The ending part of neck of the seamless knitwear is not only the last stage in making knitwear but also affects the function and appearance of the clothes. The investigator, thus made six different pieces of experimental clothes according to the finishing methods of knitting on the neck, then measured tensile strength and put them to the test by a group of experts for the assessment of wearing sensation. The results were analyzed based on variance analysis(ANOVA), and the items with similar results were put to the Duncan test for intergroup comparison. According to the analysis results of measuring tensile strength, Experimental Clothes B received the highest evaluation, Experimental Clothes E the lowest. Also Experimental Clothes B was ranked the highest in almost every evaluation criteria, whereas Experimental Clothes E was ranked the lowest in the assessment of wearing sensation.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제23권4호
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• pp.57-71
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• 2021

The purpose of the study is to derive an appropriate knitting method that can increase the appearance, wearability, and functionality through empirical research on the sleeve height knitting ratio of seamless knit wear. The study was conducted by producing seven types of experiment clothes according to knitting ratio to examine the characteristics according to the body armhole and sleeve height ratio. Specifically, after fit evaluatins, variance analysis (ANOVA) was performed to analyze the results of the evaluation, and the evaluated contents were converted into data. Among them, the items with significant results were intensively studied using the Duncan-test. The result showed that the height and the width of the sleeves vary depending on the knitting ratio. Test sweater A was the highest at 16cm, followed by test sweater B, test sweater C, test sweater D, test sweater E, test sweater F, and test sweater G at 4cm. The 1:1 ratio of test sweater A, was the highest, which is knitted in the same course as the body. The larger the difference in the ratio of body and sleeve, the lower the height of the sleeves. As a result of the appearance sensory evaluation, a significant difference was confirmed in the result values (p<0.001) from all items on the front, side, and rear. Specifically, the appearance of the test sweater B(2:4:2) on the front and test sweater C(2:4:3) on the side and rear side was the best. When the sleeves height is properly set, the ratio of the arm line to fit the design with a natural curve is analyzed as a very important factor. The results of this study are expected to be of practical use in product development and production that can increase the feeling when wearing and design satisfaction.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• 제2권3호
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• pp.148-152
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• 2001

Cotton yarns were coated with a polymer solution to hold surface fibers to the yam body, which caused fiber-fly generation during knitting process. The physical property of the coated yarn, especially a bending rigidity was investigated in order to evaluate the performance of the coated yam during knitting. SEM images showing the surface condition of the coated yarn demonstrated that the thickness of a coating material increased as the concentration of the coating solution increased. The results of the bending rigidity measured using KES-FB2 system showed that the bending rigidity of the coated yam increased as the concentration of the coating solution increased. The results also revealed the possibility that yarn coated with a low amount of coating material should be employed for further research of reducing fiber-fly generation during knitting process.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.77-86
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to characterize physical and tensile properties according to a knitting method as basic materials for solving the difficulties that occur due to the fact that the crosswise elongation is most different among knit stitch at the time of measuring elongation of knitwear. The sample used for this study was wool $100\%$ and was knitted into two, that is, controlled loop length controlled to properties of structure and fixed loop length by using Shimaseiki SES-124S 12G computer automatic flat knitting machine with DSCS device. Also, the density of rib fabric was 12gauge and its quantity was a total of seven of $0{\times}0,\;1{\times}1,\;2{\times}1,\;2{\times}2,\;3{\times}3,\;4{\times}4$ and including plain fabric, and knitted 2 pieces of sample of 300 wale${\times}400$ course. In conclusion, rib stitch has the much higher stretch rate in the direction of the course than other stitches.