• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.39 no.1
• /
• pp.133-146
• /
• 2015

King and Crown Prince's Gwanbok (冠服) written in "Goryeosa" Yeobokji was the bestowment of robes and crowns by the Son of Heaven who yielded hegemony over East Asia. It designated the King and Crown Prince of Goryeo as real and authentic as well as confirmed the political status of Goryeo in East Asia. In "Goryeosa" Yeobokji, the King's Gwanbok is of higher stature than the adornments of the King's ritual robes (祭服) and court robes (朝服) which held a domestic political significance. In East Asia, bestowment of voiture (車) and robe (服) usually appeared in the multistate system. In the $10^{th}$ century, the Later Jin (後晋) spread the idea of investiture and bestowment to Khitan (契丹). The Liao (遼) or Khitan and the Jin (金), the Conquest Dynasties, endeavored to establish the legitimacy of the Son of Heaven by imitating Sinocentrism by means of investiture and bestowment. In the reign of XingZong (興宗) and DaoZong (道宗) of Liao, the ritual of investiture and bestowment for Goryeo was in the making, adding titles and bestowments in the occasion of the elevation of Emperor Liao's honorific title. King Munjong (文宗) of Goryeo reached 9-bestowment which symbolized the first of the feudal lords in East Asia. This exceptional respect for Goryeo went on to Jin's investiture and bestowment. From then, 9-bestowment was defined as an international decorum (禮) toward Goryeo. This historical study of Gwanbok (冠服) of "Goryeosa", indicates: First, the King's Ceremonial Robe with Nine-symbol Design were designated from the early to middle of the Goryeo Dynasty by investiture and bestowment from the Conquest Dynasties. Second, the bestowed King's Robe and Crown had simultaneous functions for domestic order and international order. Goryeo did not follow ideological Sinocentrism but followed practical interest by accepting Confucian Li (禮) philosophy passed on through the Conquest Dynasties.

• Journal of architectural history
• /
• v.29 no.3
• /
• pp.67-78
• /
• 2020

This study examines the transitional situation that can be seen from the palace operation in early Joseon Dynasty. The first decades of Joseon after the nation was founded differ from the Joseon Dynasty as a whole, but rather similar with the Goryeo Dynasty. By examining "The History of Goryeo(高麗史)," it showed that palace operation during the Goryeo Dynasy was marked by the fact that a separate palace was built and resided in despite the existence of the Bongweol(本闕, main palace) as the central palace. The separation of the parent's generation and the children's generation was shown through the establishment of one's own palace. Such trait of Goryeo affected palace construction directly after the founding of Joseon. This can be shown from the characteristic of palace operation by generation. The construction of the Changdeokgung Palace(昌德宮) of King Taejong, as his own palace, is an example. Afterwards, the palace system of Joseon was established, and the space of the king and the crown prince was merged through ritual reform during the reign of King Sejong. However, the space for the parents of the king were considered separate, and this influence continued to the reign of King Seongjong. The construction of Changgyeonggung Palace(昌慶宮) during the reign of King Seongjong is an event where the king proclaimed the separation with his mother and grandmother.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.40 no.6
• /
• pp.1116-1133
• /
• 2016

This study examines the historical background of Goryeo and its relationship with Song and Yuan. In addition, it observes the shape of dress styles for the king, queen, officers, maids in waiting, and commoners after classifying them with a focus on the dress style of normal people appearing in Buddhist paintings. This study then investigates structures by tracing Goryeo's unique identity and its characteristic by a comparison and analysis of dressing style elements of Goryeo with Song and Yuan. The results shows that the Song's system was used exclusively for the dress style of the king and government officers of Goryeo after Goryeo's submission period by Yuan. There were no clear appearances of a Mongol style dress but only changes in head styles of cutting hair around the head and twisting the rest in a top down and long method. In addition, Song's style Bokgeon was shown by the king to his lower level officers. This was because the king and his officers of Yuan were in accordance with Song's system in officer's dress, hat and head style, armor, and horseback riding equipment. Second, there is doubt if they inherited a traditional form and style of the dress rather than followed the dress style of Yuan because the shape of Yuan's basic dress style Deel is very similar to the dress shape of early Buyeo people's Po in the $3^{rd}$ to $4^{th}$ centuries. Third, the shape of the Chaksu and Gung-go had been kept as it was in the dress style of ordinary men, and because the shape of the double collar had already appeared in the period of Samguk, which appeared in all classes of Yuan. There is no reason to adopt double collar shape that appeared. The general Pyeonbokpo of the country had to be influenced by Yuan. Forth, the dress style of queen and her maids in waiting were mentioned in documents; however, there was no shape of a dress like Boktag and Deel in the relics, which are the characteristic of Yuan's woman dress style. Fifth, the shape worn national style Yu and Sang had been kept in an ordinary woman's dress style; however, the two style system of high and lower class in Yuan's ordinary woman dress style appeared newly and is considered an influence of Goryeo.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
• /
• 2003.10a
• /
• pp.35-35
• /
• 2003

During the reign of King Kwangjong(光宗) in Goryeo(高麗) there was specific purpose to decide that the government officials should have worn their uniforms in four colors. The main purpose had been to establish new bureaucracy around royal authority. Therefore, it is necessary to analyze four coloured official uniform regulation(四色公服制) concerning the bureaucracy at the time.

• Journal of Korean Historical Folklife
• /
• no.45
• /
• pp.263-289
• /
• 2014

King Munjong(文宗), the eleventh King of the Goryeo Dynasty, was the son of King Hyeonjong(顯宗), the eighth king, and the younger stepbrother(異母弟) of King Jeongjong(靖宗), the 10th king. Although King Jeongjong had four sons, he abdicated the throne to King Munjong. King Taejo(太祖) had opened the possibility for sons other than the eldest son to succeed to the throne. When King Jeongjong died, his sons were children under the age of 10 years. In the early period of the Goryeo Dynasty, when kings had young sons, there were precedents of abdicating the throne to their grown-up younger brothers. In addition, King Jeongjong and Munjong had an identical blood background. During the period, Goryeo people also naturally accepted the fact that a former king's younger brother succeeded to the throne. In this background, King Munjong ascended the throne. However, King Munjong did not ascend the throne after identifying state affairs with politic power. Therefore, he needed to increase his authority as the king. Moreover, as the sons of King Jeongjong had grown up, they could stir up trouble in future succession to the throne. Therefore, King Munjong intended to concentrate power on himself and remove trouble in future succession to the throne by selecting his son as successor to the throne. After the installation of Wangtaeja(王太子, the Crown Prince), King Munjong expanded and organized Donggunggwan(東宮官, the establishment of Secretariat of Wangtaeja) and carried out various rituals related to Wangtaeja. The control system for Donggunggwan was completed institutionally in 1068. At this time, the newly organized Donggunggwan was operated as a miniature version of the central government office. In addition, the ritual for the installation of Taeja, which was held in 1054, complied with regulated procedures. After the ritual of the installation, a ceremony to congratulate on Jangheungjeol(長興節, the birthday of Wangtaeja) was held in 1056. In 1064, the wedding ritual of Taeja took place, and the ritual for Taeja regulated in Yeji(禮志) of "Goryeosa(高麗史)" was carried out. In addition, the installation of Wangtaeja was made known overseas, and the Taeja of Goryeo was proclaimed by the Kitan three times. Such various measures played an important role in strengthening the status of Taeja as the man of authority next to the king. Later, Taeja demonstrated his status as the man of authority following the king by participating in state affairs on behalf of King Munjong who was not able to move about freely in his later years.

• Journal of Astronomy and Space Sciences
• /
• v.27 no.1
• /
• pp.55-68
• /
• 2010

It has been generally known that Datong-li (a Chinese calendar in the Ming dynasty) was first introduced into Korea in the nineteenth reign of King Gongmin (1370) of the Goryeo dynasty and lasted to the third reign of King Hyeojong (1652) of the Joseon dynasty. This understanding is based on the records of Goryeo-sa (History of the Goryeo dynasty) and of Seoungwan-ji (Official book of Seoungwan)/Jeungbomunheon-bigo (Explanatory Notes of Library Document). To verify the period of the use of Datong-li in Korea, we develop a Fortran code to calculate the calendar day by Datong-li and also investigate historical literatures and extant almanacs. As a result, we find the possibility that Datong-li had been in use since 1389 at least. However, we cannot confirm whether Datong-li was first enforced in 1370 or not. On the other hand, we confirm that Datong-li was used until 1653 and reintroduced during the period from 1667 to 1669. Also, we find that previous studies had some errors in the sexagenary cycle of the real first day of a month. We think that this study will contribute to understanding the calendrical history of the Joseon dynasty.

• MISULJARYO - National Museum of Korea Art Journal
• /
• v.104
• /
• pp.40-69
• /
• 2023

This paper examines the relationship between celadon wine vessels and royal banquets by focusing on their unique forms. It explores the symbolism in their forms and designs and the changes that took place in the composition of these vessels. By examining the royal annals in Goryeosa (The History of the Goryeo Dynasty), the relation of celadon wine vessels and royal banquets is examined in terms of the number of banquets held in the respective reigns of the Goryeo kings, the number of banquets held by type, and the purpose of holding them. A royal banquet was a means of strengthening the royal authority by reinforcing the hierarchy and building bonds between the king and his vassals. It was also an act of ruling that demonstrated the king's authority and power through praise of his achievements and virtues. Royal banquets were held most often during the reigns of King Yejong (r. 1105-1122), King Uijong (r. 1146-1170), King Chungnyeol (r. 1274-1308), and King Gongmin (r. 1351-1374). Particular attention is paid here to the changes in the types and forms of celadon wine vessels that occurred starting in the reigns of King Yejong and King Chungnyeol, which is also the period in which the number of royal banquets increased and royal banquet culture evolved. The king and his subjects prayed for the king's longevity at royal banquets and celebrated peaceful reigns by drinking and performing various related acts. Thus, the visual symbolism of vessels for holding, pouring, or receiving alcohol were emphasized. Since the manner of drinking at a banquet was exchanges of pouring and receiving alcohol between the king and his subjects, the design of the ewers and cups had a significant visual impact on attendees. It can be seen, therefore, that decorating wine vessels with Daoist motifs such as the immortals, luan (a mythological bird), turtle dragons, fish dragons, and gourd bottles or with Confucian designs like hibiscus roots was intended as a visual manifestation of the purpose of royal banquets, which was to celebrate the king and to pray for both loyalty and immortality. In particular, the Peach Offering Dance (獻仙桃) and Music for Returning to the Royal Palace (還宮樂), which correspond to the form and design of celadon wine vessels, was examined. The lyrics of the banquet music embodied wishes for the king's longevity, immortality, and eternal youth as well as for the prosperity of the royal court and a peaceful reign. These words are reflected in wine vessels such as the Celadon Taoist Figure-shaped Pitcher housed in the National Museum of Korea and the Bird Shaped Ewer with Daoist Priest in the Art Institute of Chicago. It is important to note that only Goryeo celadon wine vessels reflect this facet of royal banquet culture in their shape and design. The composition of wine vessel sets changed depending on the theme of the banquet and the types of liquor. After Goryeo Korea was incorporated into the Mongol Empire, new alcoholic beverages were introduced, resulting in changes in banquet culture such as the uses and composition of wine vessel sets. From the reign of King Chungnyeol (r. 1274-1308), which was under the authority of the Yuan imperial court, royal banquets began to be co-hosted by kings and princesses, Mongolian-style banquets like boerzhayan (孛兒扎宴) were held, and attendees donned the tall headdress called gugu worn by Mongol women. During the reign of King Chungnyeol, the banquet culture changed 132 banquets were held. This implies that the court tried to strengthen its authority by royal marriage with the Yuan court, which augmented the number of banquets. At these banquets, new alcoholic drinks were introduced such as grape wine, dongnak (湩酪), and distilled liquor. New wine vessels included stem cups, pear-shaped bottles (yuhuchunping), yi (匜), and cups with a dragon head. The new celadon wine vessels were all modeled after metal wares that were used in the Yuan court or in the Khanates. The changes in the celadon wine vessels of the late Goryeo era were examined here in a more specific manner than in previous studies by expanding the samples for the study to the Eurasian khanates. With the influx of new types of wine vessels, it was natural for the sets and uses of Goryeo celadon wine vessels to change in response. The new styles of celadon wine vessels linked the Goryeo court with the distant Khanates of the Mongol Empire. This paper is the beginning of a new study that examines the uses of Goryeo celadon by illuminating the relations between royal banquets and these unique celadon wine vessels that are stylistically different from everyday vessels. It is to be hoped that more studies will be conducted from diverse perspectives exploring both the usage of Goryeo celadon vessels and their users.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.65 no.6
• /
• pp.112-132
• /
• 2015

Banya was a concubine slave of Shindon(辛旽) who was a powerful monk in late Goryeo Dynasty, as well as the mother of King Woo(禑王), a successor of King Gongmin(恭愍王). This study was undertaken to investigate the sources of costume for Banya. The study focused on the features of Buddhist service costume, street wear, and daywear for common women's costume during the prime age of the Buddhist culture. The study looked into Buddhist paintings, old documents, advanced research, and relics. There are three characteristics of historically investigated Buddhist service costume for Banya: Dallyeongpo(團領袍), long Jeogori made with black Ra(羅), and Jeogori with a long scarf. Skirt, under Jeogori, under skirt, Cho, Ra(羅), Neung (綾), Dan(緞), patterned ramie(紋紵), and Tapja(塔子) were included in all Buddhist service costume. And, street wear consisted of Women's Dapho(婦人搭忽), long Jeogori, skirt, underwear and black Ra beil(蒙首). Daywear consisted of Banbi(半臂), long Jeogori, and skirt, underwear made with cheap fabric, Ju(綢), ramie, and imported cotton. Plumper hair, silver comb and Biyeo, lining of light pink-colored thin silk(小紅薄絹), bronze openworked ornament that fixed the outerwear's opening, bronze needle case, Sutra box and heated gemstone could be matched for the Buddhist service costume. Bronze and heated gemstone could be used for ornaments of street wear and daywear. The investigation of ornaments was carried on by referring to presentation of overseas collections. Considering the limitation of the study on Goryeo costume due to the lack of research material, future studies including much more relics in oversea collections needs to be undertaken.

• Journal of architectural history
• /
• v.25 no.6
• /
• pp.45-60
• /
• 2016

Sangnyang-mun(上樑文) is not only a memorial address for the ceremony of putting up the ridge beam, namely the sangnyang-ceremony(上樑式) but also the executional record of building construction. This paper aims at researching on the oldest five sangnyang-muns written for the constructions of palaces and government offices in Goryeo Dynasty, especially viewed in the architectural history. The results of that are as follows: First, it is supposed that sangnyang-mun originated in the ancient Chinese ceremonial songs for the celebration of building construction. Second, as compared against the former times, the sangnyang-muns in Goryeo Dynasty were written to the advanced establishing forms and literary patterns, so to speak, these were the more developed styles. Third, in the 12th century, sangnyang-mun was introduced from Chinese Song to Goryeo. To the late period of J oseon Dynasty, sangnyang-mun had been to write for the sangnyang-ceremony as necessary memorial address. Fourth, the writers of five sangnyang-muns in Goryeo Dynasty were the new civil ministers appointed by the soldier rulers. They wrote the contents of their sangnyang-muns, especially focused to the king's achievements. And in the yugwi-song(六衛頌), they recited six poems in which were complicated the world view and aesthetics of the time.

• Journal of architectural history
• /
• v.17 no.4
• /
• pp.25-42
• /
• 2008

The Gyeongbok Palace was completed during the reign of King Taejo and King Sejong in the early Joseon Dynasty. The most remarkable spacious feature of the palace is that it has an inner palace wall without an outer palace wall. The absence of the outer palace wall had its origin in the palace of the late Goryeo Dynasty which did not provide the outer palace wall. Gwanghwamoon was the main gate of the palace, and the office buildings of the Six Ministries were arranged on the right side in front of the main gate. A wide road called Six Ministries Avenue was made between the builidings. The avenue was completed during the reign of the third king of Joseon, Taejong, and it was assumed that this arrangement was influenced by the government office arrangements of Nanjing, the early capital city of the Ming Dynasty. Gwanghwamoon held national rituals as well as the civic and military state examinations nations in front of the gate. The avenue was decorated with flowers and silks when kings and the royal families, or Chinese envoys enter the gate, and the civilians watched the parade, Because there was no outer palace wall, all the events held at Gwanghwamoon and the Six Ministries Avenue ware opened to the public, it was the unique feature of Gyeongbok Palace that the palaces of Goryeo dynasty and China did not have.