• 패션비즈니스
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• 제19권1호
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• pp.95-105
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• 2015

This study investigated the color culture in the Japanese Medieval Age. The Japanese Medieval Age included the Kamakura period (1180-1333) and Muromachi period (1336-1573), and the leading group transitioned from the Kuge families to the Buke families. The taboos about colors from ancient times became nominal, and forbidden colors, such as purple, celadon, and red, became the colors of the samurai, leading to beautiful soldier gears that were unparalleled in history. In the Kamakura period, colors that conveyed a strong impression were created and preferred with the combination of a samurai's reasonable spirit and zen thoughts. The period was also called "the era of hari", and cross dyeing based on basic colors such as suou (red), ai (blue), and kuchinasi (yellow) was popular. In both the Kamakura and Muromachi periods, conspicuous and strong colors were sought for costumes, and embroidery was used with gold leaf, silver leaf, gold threads, silver threads, and background color. The colors of costume preferred by Buke men in the period included green, blue, and brown. In the characteristics of the kosode, the sugan and hitadare were used for men's formal dress, while kosode was used for the grooming of the working class. In these periods, additionally, the working class began to be socially engaged in actively wearing the one-layer kosode, which became popular, and the characteristics of the Japanese Medieval Age, during which functionality and practicality was valued, were also reflected in the dressing.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제3권4호
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• pp.337-343
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• 2001

This study was purposed to see how men's hair styles of Japan had changed throughout history and results of the study was as follows. There are such evidences as topknots in its primitive styles and wooden combs that several hair styles were tried already in the primitive Jomon Period. In the Yayoi period, bare topknot style without crowns and Mizura style in which hair drop down both ears were popular. In the period of ancient burial mounds, Mizura style was dominative style and varied its form and shape according to classes and status. In the Aska and Nara era, topknot-in-the-crown style in which hair bound in one as in continental style and put in crown or hood, which style was influenced by the Sui and the Tang periods of China. Since the Heian period, topknot-in-the-Ebosi style, binding style, and Karawa style as well as topknot-in-the-crown style came in sight and Sakayaki style became popular in the Kamakura and Muromachi periods. In the Momoyama period, Chasenmage style and Ichomage style were spread widely. In the early Edo era, Wakashumage style and Yaromage style as well as Ichomage style were preferred. In the middle of Edo era in which form and shape of topknot was more distinct symbol of class, status and job than in any other period, Tachmach style under the influence of the Punkin and Honda modes. Sonno style was popular in the late Edo era. There was a drastic disappearance of topknot style by the hair-cutting order during the Meiji Restoration period and civilized hair style of the Jankiri style, a kind of dishevelled hair style without making a topknot was in fashion and continued to the present.

• 고문화
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• 제70호
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• pp.133-161
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• 2007

'○'문과 '⊙'문청자는 굽안바닥 중앙에 부호를 새긴 것으로 제작자(공방)를 표기한 것으로 판단된다. 이들 청자가 생산된 곳은 전라남도 강진군 대구면 사당리 8.23.27호 가마터인데 'e'문청자는 23호와 27호에서만 확인되고 있어 그 생산지가 더욱 한정적이다. 기종은 완과 대접, 접시, 잔, 병, 합, 퇴주기 등이 확인되는데 접시가 수량도 많고 기형도 다양하다. 이들 청자는 대부분 전성기 청자의 문양과 같은 도범을 이용한 압출양각 기법으로 시문하고 있는데, 이는 문양과 크기 등 장식의장을 균일하게 유지할 수 있는 제작방법으로 양질청자를 생산하는데 적합한 방법이다. 또한 이 시기 상감기법이 보편화되지 않았으며, 압출양각 기법을 이용하여 유사한 청자를 다량 생산하여 공급하였음을 알 수 있었다. 이들 청자는 내화토 비짐이 일부 있으나 대부분 전면 시유 후 U자형 굽의 안바닥에 규석을 받쳐 갑번하였다. 이들 청자는 강화 희종 석릉과 파주 혜음원지, 일본 겸창시 약궁대로 무가 가옥 출토품 등을 통해 1230년대를 중심으로 한 13세기 2/4분기에 제작되었음을 알 수 있었다. 따라서 이들 청자는 비색청자를 대부분 12세기로 편년하면서 오는 13세기 청자의 공백을 메워줄 수 있는 매우 의미 있는 자료이다. 그리고 이 시기는 몽고에 의한 외세의 충격이 있었으나 중앙통제가 원활하게 이루어져 비색청자가 계속 생산되었음을 알려 주고 있다. 또한 강화의 갑곶리와 관청리, 행궁의 역할을 하였던 성주 혜음원, 지방의 대찰이었던 경주불국사와 남원 실상사, 대구소와 인접한 장흥의 유력층 유적 등에서 출토되고 있어 상류층을 위해 생산되었음을 알 수 있다.