• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제13권6호
• /
• pp.877-887
• /
• 2011

The purpose of Sassanian dynasty was to succeed the civilization of Achaemenid dynasty but it shows vestiges of Parthian civilization in many ways. This study is an attempt to take a look at Sassanian civilization through analyzing these rock reliefs since these features are shown on the rock relief of Ardashir I in early Sassanian Iran. The way carried out this study was first, to collect and search documentary data to establish the theoretical background, and collect positive data by exploring this region and then we comparatively analyzed the two data in general and the result is the following: The form of costume is different according to the person's status. In the early period of Ardashir I the costume style of the royals is reflected by clothes such as tunic, trousers in parthian style. However, trousers do not have vertical pleats which are commonly shown in the case of parthian trousers. It assumed that after the early period of Ardashir I, Sassanians formed their own styles. The form of cap is also different according to the person's status. Ardashir I and the Ahura mazda god put on crown and Korymbos which symbolized the sovereign power. Except the king and the god, the prince and the king's vassal put on high caps called Kolah. Diadem which symbolized sovereign power of king was used by the king, the god and the crown prince. There are two kinds of diadem. The first form has vertical pleats and the other does not have pleats. This form became different depending on the social position. The form of hairstyle is generally thick curly hair which goes down until the shoulder. There is no difference in their hairstyle in terms of the social position. The beard style is generally in the form of scoop. There is also no difference in terms of the person's status.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제13권6호
• /
• pp.926-933
• /
• 2011

The purpose of this research was to develop a smart wear equipped with wearable technologies for women in the age of 50's and 60's and confirm its acceptability. For this, we constructed a casual jacket that has the integration of heating and lighting function, and evaluated the user's satisfaction. The size of the heating device attached at the back of the jacket was 300 mm in width and 120 mm in length and the size of the one attached at the front abdomen was 180 mm in width and 120 mm in length. The power supplier was the unification of the battery and controller which have been waterproofed. The lighting device connected with LED was 26mm in width, 20 mm in length and 1.5 mm in thickness. It has been designed in a waterproofed rectangular shape and was attachable to the jacket. The satisfaction survey of a smart jacket has been conducted with three standards, which were convenience, appearance and practicality. Free physical movement among the standard of convenience had very high scores with the average of 4.7 on a five point-scale. The acceptability of the jacket was 4.6, which proved that it didn't have unique feelings compared to ordinary ones. The evaluation score of the appearance of the jacket was 4.5. Especially inside finishing of the jacket received the highest scores from all ages. According to the evaluation of practicality, there has been no change in the appearance of the jacket and the function of heating device after laundry.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제13권6호
• /
• pp.934-942
• /
• 2011

This study was intended to analyze conventional grading increments and methods for middle-age men's pants, and to suggest new grading guidelines that will enable to improve satisfaction with size and silhouette as a result of combining the concept of grading, which help maintain the ratio and proportion by sizes as one of ready-made apparel's advantages, with body form oriented and aesthetic approaches. In the apparel industry, the current sizing specifications and methods adopted by relevant companies, as well as the characteristics of body forms of men aged 35 to 55 years were comparatively analyzed to find out problems and ultimately to suggest their solutions or improvements. It was considered that as the conventional grading practices used in the industry were customary on the basis of the past experiences, it was required to take the body forms of target consumers into account and also, to reconsider the conventional grading methods. Analyses of sizing and specifications by brands show that 4 to 19 sizes including 82 or 84 as standard size have been produced. Since men's apparel has a large number of sizes with the large range of sizes, grading is critically important. As silhouettes depend on the distribution of grading rule values at each point of increment pattern in the main regions during grading, it is necessary to consider both size grading and form variations. To maintain an appropriate silhouette with keeping the angle of center back line of a pattern, it is desirable to set the ratio of side line part to center part from the crease line to approximately 3:7. It is required to diversify the values of grading rules according to different sizes and pattern regions in consideration for the body forms of key consumers. In addition, if the natural lines of designs and patterns for the width increments of waist circumference and hip circumference, the increments of hip width in pant's front and back panels, the ratio of grading rule values of the right and left sides of crease line, knee circumference, thigh circumference and so on are taken into account, grading will be satisfactory in the all aspects of size, silhouette and ratio.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제13권6호
• /
• pp.972-982
• /
• 2011

The purpose of this study is to improve the method of color developing with alkali solution as a promotor of color developing for feasible use. Cotton fabric was dyed with persimmon extract ranged with 0~3% alkali component with 5 types of strong to mild alkali solution. Heat treatment for color developing was applied to fabric dyed with persimmon extract and alkali mixing solution. Tests were carried out to analyze the change of surface color, ${\Delta},Ea^*b^*$, and water repellent of the dyed cotton fabric. The alkali mixing sample showed higher ${\Delta},Ea^*b^*$ value than control one without alkali mixing on the base of dyed fabric due to high color developing by alkali in the initial step of dyeing process. As alkali concentration increased, deeper dark color appeared on the fabric. The fabric color was changed to more dark in the application of sodium hydroxide, sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate in the initial step of dyeing process but color was not changed by increased heating time. However, the fabric showed a slight dark color with sodium acetate and more color change than that of the fabric dyed with persimmon extract without alkali. Therefore, sodium acetate seemed to a suitable promotor for color developing in persimmon extract dyeing. Property of water repellent was showed after color developing by heating with low concentration of alkali treatment.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제13권6호
• /
• pp.943-951
• /
• 2011

The purpose of this study is to analyze the physiological effects of non-elastic corset on women's health and pain through measuring the clothing pressure, subjective pressure sensation, blood velocity and metabolism. 5 women in their twenties were picked as our subjects, their average size being 85cm at bust girth, 69 cm at waist girth. With the subjects each wearing a corset, we are testing in artificial environment with a treadmill according to the planned exercise procedures. The average pressure of the corset is 0.938 kPa (maximum 3.006 kPa at 45 degree front bowing), which is 10.2 times higher than the control group, averaging from 9.3 times higher at resting, 11.4 times at walking, 11.1 times at running. The effect of corset pressure on the physiological responses of the body is increased more when exercise than when resting. Clothing pressure increased in the order of the postures: sitting > standing with 45 degree bowing > standing. They experienced a high level of tighten discomfort of 5.6 in the scale of 1.0 to 7.0 due to the high pressure of the corset when resting, after intense exercise the level increased to 6.0, while without corset the level increased 1.7 to 2.2. With corset on, the blood circulation did not increase even though when the body exercised and blood flow became unbalanced making great gaps between both at the right and left finger tips. Perspiration of chest and back decreased 37.3% when wearing corset; 27.5% at resting, 56.7% at walking, 25.8% at running, and 39.0% at recovery. With corset on oxygen consume and metabolism increased 9.0%, 7.9%, respectively, which means the corset makes the body uncomfortable. Lung volume exchange VE decreased almost 4.1~7.3% with corset on and $VCO_2/VO_2$, RER and total volume in lung, VT also decreased too, which means the digestion of stomach and lung function are inhibited due to the high corset pressure.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제13권6호
• /
• pp.966-971
• /
• 2011

This study is designed to develop programs that analyze the distance of clothes from human skin and cross-sectional body figures based on 3D human body scan data, and to verify accuracy and efficiency of the program so that it can be used for clothing fit evaluation and 3D human body research. The auto cross-sectional imaging program was developed by using Visual C++ and OpenGL, and the 3D human body scan data were adopted to measure the space between skin and clothing. The space measurements were obtained by two widely used programs, RapidForm and AutoCAD, and a program devised by the researchers of this study. Measuring time and space measurements from different programs were compared in order to verify accuracy and efficiency of the newly-devised program. As a result, no significant difference was found in the measurements. However, the required time to measure one cross section was different within the significance level of 0.05, and the differences become more remarkable as the number of measuring and the angle of space between skin and clothing increase. Therefore, the program developed by this study is expected to be useful for research on body shapes and fit evaluation based on 3D human body scan data in the fashion field.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제13권6호
• /
• pp.983-989
• /
• 2011

This study aimed to identify mordant effects of Chestnut hulls. The color of post and pre-mordanted fabrics were measured in terms of H, V, C, $L^*$, $a^*$, $b^*$, and K/S values. In addition, color fastness and antimicrobial activity were evaluated. The pre-mordant concentration of Chestnut hulls for cotton, mercerized cotton and silk was optimized to 50% (o.w.f.) and 70% (o.w.f.), respectively. Post-mordant concentration of Chestnut hulls of mercerized cotton, silk and cotton was optimized to 50% (o.w.f.) and 90% (o.w.f.), respectively. The hue of fabrics was influenced by mordant methods, such as pre-mordant and post-mordant, slightly. Wet cleaning fastness of pre-mordanted cotton and mercerized cotton fabrics was higher than that of post-mordanted fabrics. The wet cleaning fastness of silk fabrics was not affected by the mordant method, and their fastness were proved to be excellent. The dry cleaning fastness of post-mordanted cotton fabrics was higher than that of pre-mordanted cotton fabrics. The dry cleaning fastness of mercerized cotton and silk was proved to be excellent regardless of mordant methods. The antimicrobial activity of Oenothera odorata jacquin dyed fabrics and Chestnut hulls mordanted fabrics was proved to 99.9%, and their excellent antimicrobial activity remained after wet and dry cleaning.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제13권4호
• /
• pp.590-599
• /
• 2011

The purpose of this study is to classify body types into different groups based on 3D scanned data, and identify the representative body shapes that most frequently appear in the groups. A high frequency range was defined based on body measurement data, and representative shapes were identified based on body scan data of women aged 18-24. The major findings of this study are as follows. First, the three typical types of height, bust and drop mixes among Korean women aged 18-24 are as follows:) 155-88-N,) 160-82-A, and 165-85-A. Regarding the body type, the A and N types frequently appeared, while the H type was rare. Second, among the subjects of the high-frequency groups, upright bodies were selected as sample models and were used for morphing. An adjustment was made to the morphing results to reflect the body characteristics of the sample models evenly. Third, to verify the morphing results, the body sizes of the sample models and the created models were compared. The result showed that, the sizes were close to the average size of the sample models. Fourth, to verify whether the morphing processes adequately reflected the features of the body shapes, cross-section models of key body parts were made and the degree of representativeness was determined.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제13권5호
• /
• pp.661-671
• /
• 2011

This study was designed to produce rounded belt pattern and tight-skirt pattern drafting method using 3D body scan data. Subjects were thirty women in their early twenties. In order to figure out the optimum cutting points, namely, where darts are made, using CAD program, curve ratio inflection points on the horizontal curve of waist, abdomen, and hip to find 1 point in the front, two points in the back part. The average length from center front point to maximum curve ratio was 7.7 cm(46.3%) on the waist curve; 7.9 cm(39.4%) on the abdomen curve. And the average length from center back point to maximum curve ratio point was 6.9 cm(39.0%) for first dart and 11.2 cm(63.3%) for second dart on the waist curve; 8.9 cm(35.8%) for first dart and 15.7 cm(63.3%) for second dart on the hip curve respectively. The cutting lines from were made up by connecting curve inflection points. After divided using cutting lines, each patch was flattened onto the plane and all the technical design factors related with patternmaking were measured, such as dart amount, lifting amount of side waist point, etc. Based on the results of correlation analysis among these factors, regression analysis was done to produce equations to estimate the variables necessary to draw up pattern draft method; F1=F8+1.1, $F4=2.5{\times}F2+0.9$, $F5=0.9{\times}F4+1.0$, $F6=0.3{\times}F4+0.4$, $B1=0.9{\times}B8+2.3$, $B4=2.1{\times}B2+1.3$, $B5=0.9{\times}B4+3.5$, and $B6=0.3{\times}B4+0.4$.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제13권5호
• /
• pp.752-758
• /
• 2011

In this paper, experiments to develop working clothes and evaluated, including the current and material-improved working clothes in relation to physiological functionality measurement. Experiments were conducted on subjects after wearing working clothes in an climate chamber, and the thermo-physiological response, such as human body temperature, micro-climate within the clothes, blood pressure, heart rate were measured. In this manner, the physiological functionality of improved working clothes was compared with that of current working clothes and evaluated. The summary of obtained results is as follows: For physiological functionality evaluation through material-improved working clothes, P working clothes showed significantly lower rectal temperature than C working clothes. For mean skin temperature, P's skin temperature was significantly higher than C's in the second half of the experiment. P working clothes's temperature around the thighs in Micro climate was significantly lower than that of the C working clothes. Also, humidity within the clothes showed similar trends. During the exercise period, C working clothes showed higher blood pressure than P, but P showed higher heart rates than C. Also, the oxygen uptake amount was higher in C than P during the exercise period, it explains that the energy consumption amount of P working clothes was smaller than that of C working clothes. Of the subjective evaluation, for temperature sensation, workers wearing P working clothes felt cooler. For humidity, C working clothes showed more humidity. For comfort, P working clothes were better, and for sense of fatigue, workers felt less tired wearing P working clothes. From results above, we can see that physiological functionality improved in the material-improved working clothes in the working clothes for construction site workers. The improvement of working clothes through functionality improvements not only will provide personal pleasantness to constriction site workers, but will also generate efficiency and productivity improvements at construction sites. All in all, the continuous study of functionality improvements in working clothes taking into consideration the human body's physiological responses is required.