• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Marine Engineers Conference
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• 2011.06a
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• pp.272-272
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• 2011

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.5
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• pp.582-587
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• 2003

To examine the effect of heat treatment temperature in finishing process on PET/PBT Fabric, PET/PBT Fabrics were treated at different relaxing temp., pre-set temp., and final-set temp.. The dimensions such as thickness and density were measured, and the handles were evaluated by Kawabata system. In relaxing which was wet heat treatment, thickness and bulkiness were increased, and NUMERI, FUKURAMI, SOFUTOSA, and THV also were increased but KOSHI was decreased with elevating temperature. With elevating pre-set temp., thickness and bulkiness were decreased, but KOSHI was increased. NUMERI, FUKURAMI, SOFUTOSA, and THV were the best at 180$^{\circ}C$ pre-set treatment. In final-set which was dry heat treatment like pre-set, thickness, bulkiness, NUMERI, HUKURAMI, SOFUTOSA, and THV were decreased, but KOSHI value was increased with elevating temperature. Therefore the best heat treatment condition was 130$^{\circ}C$ relaxing, 180$^{\circ}C$ pre-set, and 160$^{\circ}C$ final-set. And the handle of PET/PBT Fabric was affected much more by relaxing temp. than pre-set temp. and final-set temp.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.23-31
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• 2005

Mechanical properties and hand evaluation of wool/acrylic(W/A) blend knits were conducted before and after repeated washing to get the optimum W/A blending ratio, which could help achieve the optimum mechanical and hand properties of the knits. The five test fabrics using the yarns with different W/A blending ratios($\%$), 100/0, 70/30, 50/50, 30/70, 0/100, were knitted. The fabrics were washed by a rotating drum type washing machine. Then, objective mechanical and hand properties were evaluated by KES-FB, Kawabata evalution system for fabric. The results are as follows: there was no change in the hand value of the knitted fabric with the W/A-blended yarn caused by the change in the blending ratio before washing. After washing, however, the increase of acrylic's blending rate caused the bending property to decrease proportionally, while the friction coefficient of the surface property increased. Furthermore, the study showed that W/A 50/50 possesses the most superior tensile property and shearing property, which could attain the optimum blending ratio. Similar results in hand value were derived in all the samples. After washing, however, the increase in acrylic's blending rate caused a proportional decrease in KOSHI and an increase in FUKURAMI. In addition, W/A 50/50 gained the biggest NUMERI value, again corresponding to the optimum blending ratio. Similar results in total hand value were derived in all the samples before washing. After washing, though, all the total hand values decreased, and, as the wool fabric's blending rate increased, the total hand values proportionally decreased further.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.1039-1047
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• 1996

The purpose of this study is to examine and to evaluate the properties of pile materials to produce velvet fabrics which have excellent handle. In order to perform this purpose, the mechanical properties, hand value (H.V.), total hand value (T.H.V.), total appearance value (T.A.V.) of acetate, cuprammonium rayon, cotton materials for velvet as the typical commercial Pile fabric were measured and analyzed by KES-F system. The important results obtained by this study are as follows. 1 For acetate pile, elogational deformation was easy and bending rigidity of weft was high and elastic recovery was excellent compared with the other materials. 2. Cuprammonium rayon velvet was shown that pile bending rigidity and hysterisis were low. Cotton velvet was shown that compressional energy was high and compressinal elasticity was exellent. 3. In the case that specimens were applied by men's winter suit program, H.V was shown that Koshi of acetate velvet was similar to that of cotton. Numeri of cuprammonium rayon velvet was higher than the others and Fukurami values for all of the three fabrics were similar. 4. But in case that specimens were applied by women's winter suit program Koshi of cuprammonium rayon velvet was lower. But Numeri of that was higher than the others and Fukurami for all of the three fabrics were similar and Sofutosa of cotton velvet was lower than the others. T.H.V. of the acetate velvet was the highest in men's winter suit program while cuprammonium rayon velvet was the highest in women's winter suit program T.A.V. of acetate velvet was highest.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.33-45
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• 2000

The handle were observed by objective and subjective method as the washing was repeated for 4 kinds(sample A, B, C, D) of materials which have different water vapor transmission, and the change of water vapor transmission each others. The results of factor analyses for 18 polar adjective words on subjective handle test yielded 4 factors, that were 'elastic property', 'surface property', 'thickness and weight property' and 'thermal and rigid property'. The surface properties were deteriorated remarkably as washing was repeated and significant difference were observed. Compared with the primary hand value for each materials, the statistical difference of samples was shown at Koshi and Fukurami measured by the KES-FB system. Koshi decreased for all the materials after repeated washing, and Fukurami had a tendency to increase for all the materials in proportion to repeated washing. Significant difference of total hand value wasn't shown in repeated washing number, but in fabric types.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.8
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• pp.1032-1042
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to measure, compare, and investigate the physical properties of rayon/cotton blend fabrics treated with cellulase and cellulase & specific degeneration silicon and to present basic data which is in development a value-added fabric. The results are as follows. The condition for the treatment of cellulase was at 55$^{\circ}C$, pH 4 and the weight loss increased as the concentration of cellulase and the treated time increased. On treatment with cellulase, the crossectional view & longitudinal view of fiber noticed remarkable crack as weight loss increased and tensile strength and elongation decreased, and pilling was enhanced remarkably. KOSHI was increased, NUMERI and FUKURAMI were decreased as weight loss increased. In the basic characteristic value of clothing wearning, shape stability and drapability were decreased, but air content was improved. On treatment with cellulase & silicon, the degree of damage in the crossectional view & longitudinal view of the fiber reduced. Tensile strength, elongation, moisture regain improved. KOSHI and FUKURAMI were reduced, NUMERI was improved rather than when it was treated with cellulase. Therefore handle was improved. In the basic characteristic value of the clothing wearing, shape stability, air content, drapability were improved.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.8
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• pp.1141-1149
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• 1998

Tencel fabrics were treated with NaOH, mechanically prefibrillated, and hydrolyzed by cellulase. Softner was applied to improve hand of the treated Tencel fabrics after prefibrillation and cellulase treatment. Kawabata's Evaluation System for Fabrics(KES-FB) was used to evaluate effects of NaOH pretreatment, prebifrillation, and cellulase and softner treatments on fabric hand of the treated fabrics. Primary hand values of women's medium thick fabrics such as KOSHI, NUMERI, FUKURAMI, and SOFUTOSA, and total hand values were evaluation parameters. As the treatments of prefibrillation, cellulase, and softner progressed, values in bending and shearing properties decreased and softness and elasticity were imparted to the treated fabrics. Specifically, compressional linearity, compressional energy, and thickness of the treated fabrics increased by prefibrillation, providing bulkiness to the treated fabrics. Values indicating surface properties increased owing to fibrils formed by prefibrillation treatment, but removal of fibrils by cellulase treatment enhanced smoothness. As the fabrics were exposed to various treatments such as NaOH pretreatments, prefibrillation, and cellulase and softner treatments, NUMERI, FUKURAMI, SOFUTOSA, and total hand values increased with the exception of KOSHI, Consequently, the treated fabrics became softer, smoother, and more elastic. Especially, the NaOH pretreatment provided superior SOFUTOSA to Tencel fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.12
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• pp.1749-1755
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• 2002

본연구의 목적은DP가공에 의한 가교화를 통해 텐셀의 피브릴화를 조절할 때 DP가공 방법 및 NaOH전처리 효과를 물성, 표면형태, 역학적 성질 및 태의 변화의 관점에서 고찰하는데 있다. SEM 분석결과DP가공에 의해 피브릴 발생 정도는 감소하였다. DP가공 방법에 있어 서 WF법과 PDC법에 따른 물성의 차이는 나타나지 않았다. 역학적특성의 경우 DP가공은 DP가공 방법에 상관없이 효소처리한 직물의 인장선형성에는 큰 영 향을 주지 않았으나 인장에 너지, 굽힘 강성, 압축선형성, 압축 레질리언스, 기하학적 거칠기는 감소시켰고 인장 레질리언스, 굽힘이력, 압축에너지는 증가시켰다. 전단특성은 WF법에서는 증가한 반면, PDC법에서는 감소하여 DP가공 방법에 따른 차이를 나타내었다. WF법이 PDC법보다 더 높은 Koshi, Numeri, Fukurami 값을 보였으며, 종합태 값은 비슷하게 나타났다. NaOH 전처 리에 의해 수지부착량은 감소하였으나 감량률은 증가하였으며, DP성/물성은 더 낮게 나타났다. NaOH 전처리에 의해 인장선형성, 인장에너지, 압축 레질리언스, 전단 및 굽힘특성은 증가하였으나 인장레질리언스와 압축선형성, 압축에너지, 표면특성은 감소하였다. NaOH 전처리한 경우 Koshi는 증가하였고, Numrei와 Fukuramil는 감소하였으며, 종합태 값은 가장 낮았다. 처리한 시료들은 각각 다른 감성과 촉감을 나타냈다.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.36 no.8
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• pp.51-61
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• 1998

This paper discussed the assessment of hand of polyester fabrics changed by alkaline hydrolysis. This study analyzed the relations between the change of mechanical property and the hand value according to the weight loss of polyester fabrics. The results are as follows; Objective hand by KES-FB system, revealed that for tensile properties, as the weight loss increased, WT, RT increased and LT decreased. For bending properties, as the weight loss increased, B and 2HB showed smaller values. For shear properties, as the weight loss increased, G, 2HG and 2HG5 decreased. For surface properties, as the weight loss increased, MIU increased, but MMD and SMD did not show any trend. For compression properties, LC, WC and RC did not show significant differences according to the degree of weight loss. In case of hand value, Koshi(stiffness), Hari(anti-drape stiffness), Kisimi(scrooping feeling) and Shinayakasa(flexibility with soft feeling) showed a meaningful results depending on the degree of weight loss. However, Shari(crispness) and Fukurami(fullness and softness) did not show meaningful result. Koshi, Hari and Shinayakasa are high correlation with tensile property, bendibg property shear properties, thickness and weight. Kisimi is high correlation with tensile property, bending property, thickness and weight. Shari, Fukurami and THV did not show any meaningful difference whth any mechanical properties.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.10
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• pp.1809-1820
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• 2001

본 연구에서는 모 직물의 접착심과의 접착 후, 프레싱 처리 후, 드라이클리닝 처리 후 프레스로 처리한 실제의 의복의 관리와 생산 면에서 접할 수 있는 직물 변화에 대하여 물성 변화를 살펴보았다. 겉감으로는 신사복 춘하용 모 100% 또는 모혼방 직물 15종류를 사용하였으며 심지로는 신사복에 많이 쓰이는 3종류 심지를 사용하였다. KES시스템을 이용하여 직물의 접착후, 프레싱 처리 후, 드라이크리닝과 프레싱 처리 후의 물성 변화를 시험하였으며 다음과 같은 결과를 얻었다. 1) 접착 후 EM은 대체로 감소하지만 강성과 이력 현상은 증가하는 것으로 나타났다. 결과로 KOSHI, SHARI, HARI는 증가하고 THV는 감소하여 태는 접착으로 저하되었다. 2) 프레싱 처리 후는 접착 후와 큰 차이를 보이지 않는다. 마찰특성에서 좀더 매끄러워지고 마찰 계수는 증가하는 것으로 나타났다. 3) 드라이크리닝과 프레싱 처리 후의 물성의 변화에서는 위사 방향의 큰 값을 갖는 경우에 감소하는 것으로 나타났다. 굽힘 강성과 전단강성은 감소하였지만 이력은 증가하는 흥미로운 결과를 보인다. 드라이클리닝 용제의 효과로 여겨진다. 무게는 증가하여 직물이 처리 후 수축한 것으로 나타났다. 프레싱 처리 후와 비교시 KOSHI, SHARI, HARI와 FURAMl는 감소하고 THV는 증가하여 태가 향상하였다.