• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.31 no.1 s.160
• /
• pp.77-84
• /
• 2007

The purpose of this study was to investigate and to compare the performances of silicone laminated materials sold for swimming cap in market, to get the basic data for product development. We selected 4 specimens and tested their air permeability, waterproofness and breathability. We also tested the physical and mechanical properties of the specimens using KES system. Silicone-laminated material was not bursted on high hydraulic pressure since silicone membrane gave waterproofness while PU/Polyester substrate gave elasticity. It didn't have air permeability and breathability at all. Any toxic materials such as Formaldehyde, Deldrin, PCP, Amin, TDBPP were not detected in silicone-laminated material and other materials. Silicone-laminated material had higher stretchability with the low force but it had lower elastic recovery and shape stability comparing to PU laminated material. It had lower flexibility than PU laminated material. It had lower unrecoverable amount in shearing direction. Friction coefficient was higher in silicone-laminated material than PU laminated material due to its surface stickiness. It was compressed easily and its compression resiliency was higher with compared to PU laminated material.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.17 no.4
• /
• pp.613-625
• /
• 2015

This research was conducted to provide basic data to improve expressivity required for virtual clothing to replace actual clothing. For the experiment, 6 materials were selected and 12(2 kinds of length) actual flared skirts were made. At the same time, simulations were carried out on OptiTex Runway 12.0 for 36(12 kinds of skirts $\times$ KES, FTU, KES weight/10) kinds of virtual flared skirts, which were applied with the measured property values (thickness, weight, bending, shear, friction, and stretch). Also, the study compared and analyzed the wearing images, silhouette overlapping images, and skirt length measurements of the actual and virtual skirts put on a dummy. As a result, the actual skirts showed clear distinction for each material. In contrast, virtual 1 and 2 expressed fabric 3 in the most similar way, but could not recreate the uniform, soft, and natural flare shape of the actual skirts in general. Virtual 3 formed natural flares as those of the actual skirts, and expressed fabric 1, 5, and 6 in a similar way. However, virtual 3 had too much volume and barely showed any distinction for each material. All of virtual 1, 2, and 3 expressed different flare shapes on the front and back sides of the skirt similarly to the actual skirts, and had a good visual expression for the color and texture of the materials. However, they could not effectively express the elasticity and fabric sagging in the bias direction.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.18 no.3 s.88
• /
• pp.49-58
• /
• 2006

The purpose of this study was to examine the effect of covering yarn's twist on mechanical properties of knitted fabrics of composite yarns with single covering process. Four yarns that were used in this study: two different composite yarns made from the four kinds of cotton and functional polyester-(Poly-A) with the ratio of 52:48, and the rest two yarns are the original cotton 100% yarn and the poly-A 100% yarn. The two kinds of composite yarns, CP1 and CP2, were processed on the single covering process. CP1 was applied on the single covering process with S-800 tpm, where Poly-A was used as covering yarn and cotton was used as core yarn. CP2 was applied on the same process as CP1 except that Poly-A had been applied on the two-for-one twisting process with S-400 tpm on the previous step. Sixteen mechanical properties of all the four knifed fabrics knitted under the same knitting conditions were measured by KES-FB system with the outer knit condition. And 3D CAD dressmaking simulations, which were driven by some of the mechanical properties, were presented. The results were as follows: CP2 had high RT values with twisting of covering yarn. CP2 also had high B, 2HB values because of higher linear density. SMD was affected rather by twisting of covering yarn than by fine hair of the cotton surface. Twisting of covering yarn made it decreasing T value and increasing W value. Dressmaking 3D CAD simulations showed that there are buckling effects on CP2 because of high bending rigidity and shear rigidity.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
• /
• v.3 no.2
• /
• pp.9-15
• /
• 2000

직물 표면을 문지를 때 느끼는 촉감은 여러 가지 기계적인 자극이 손 끝에 전달되어 느끼게 되므로, 직물의 표면의 특성을 분석하는 것은 매우 중요하다. 그러므로 표면을 덮고 있는 잔털의 양과 숫자를 측정하는 방법을 개발하고 촉감해석에 사용할 수 있도록 하였다. 표면의 거칠기는 비접촉으로 측정하여 잔털의 성질까지 포함된 스펙트럼을 얻었으며 FFT 분석을 통해 직물의 표면 구조의 특징과 상관되는 결과를 확인하였다. KES-F System에서 측정한 Hand Value와 비교 분석한 결과, 표면 거칠기와 잔털량과 잔털수는 객관적인 촉감해석에 중요한 요소로 사용할 수 있었다.

• Proceedings of the Korean Fiber Society Conference
• /
• 1993.06b
• /
• pp.413-417
• /
• 1993

A study has been conducted on the mechanical properties of two sort of woven silk fabrics, i.e. habutae and dechine, with KES-류 handle measurement system. The mechanical properties are compared with their structural parameters, such as fabric densities, thickness

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
• /
• v.2 no.1
• /
• pp.105-111
• /
• 1999

In order to introduce the touch to engineering and industries, it must be preceded to dstablish a quantitative barometer of the feeling. for this purpose, we developed a tactile measuring system to measure physical properties of texture, such as surface roughness, friction coefficient and compliance. The tactile measuring system uses a LASER type displacement sensor, which is a non-contacting system, in measuring the surface roughness. By considering that human tactile system is a contacting mechanism, this non-contacting method needs to be modified. As a precedent research of that, we compared the contacting and non-contacting method in this paper. Surface roughness of ten cloths were measured by using the measuring system, then compared to the test results using the Kawabata evaluation system(KES), which uses a contacting method in measuring the surface roughness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.27 no.8
• /
• pp.958-968
• /
• 2003

The purpose of this study was to clarify the different mechanical properties of fabrics among the theme groups classified by fashion fabric trend. This study can be useful for fabric marketers and planners to design new products. In order to carry out this study, the fabric samples of representative theme for‘2002/03 F/W fashion fabric trend were collected from a fashion company and were measured to analyze the mechanical properties, hand value(H.V) and total hand value(T.H.V) by KES-FB System. The results were as follows. 1. The theme-A of‘Luxury, Elegance’was consisted of wool, rayon and PET and had a lower B, 2HB of bending properties and a lower G and 2HG5 of shear properties. The theme-B of‘Technical, Functional’was consisted of synthetic fibers such as PET, PA, PU and elastic fiber and had a higher MIU and a lower MMD, SMD of surface properties. The theme-C of‘Vintage, Aged’was consisted of mostly cotton and had the highest B and 2HB. The theme-D of‘Fancy, Airy’was consisted of mostly woolen wool, polyacryl and polyamide and had a high MMD and SMD of surface properties and a high LC and RC of compression properties. 2. As the results of analyzing H.V and T.H.V through KES-FB system, the theme-A showed a higher Smoothness and lower Stiffness. The theme-B had a lower Smoothness, Fullness, Soft feeling and T.H.V and the theme-C had the highest Stiffness. The theme-D showed the highest Fullness and Soft Feeling but the lowest Stiffness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.30 no.9_10 s.157
• /
• pp.1485-1493
• /
• 2006

This study was to investigate the effect of different scouring methods on mechanical properties and appearance of lyocell. Two different scouring methods were adopted for the study; one was the traditional scouring with alkali and the other was enzymatic scouring. Enzymatic scouring was carried with four different enzymes; C1 : Cellusoft L, C2 : Cellusoft UL, D1 : Denimax 992L, D2 : Denimax Acid XCL. The mechanical properties of scoured lyocell were measured using KES-FB. The appearance of scoured samples was analyzed by 3D CAD SYSTEM of i-Designer. While the untreated fabric showed the best linearity because it is stiff, alkali treated samples showed the worst dimensional stability and distorted easily. Enzyme treated samples, especially C1 treated samples showed the best dimensional stability. In addition, enzyme treated samples showed low bending rigidity compared to the alkali treated samples. It means that the enzyme treated samples are more flexible than alkali treated samples. However, the smoothness of the sample's surface treated by either of methods did not show much difference. From the study, it was suggested that the enzymatic scouring for lyocell could help to gain natural silhouette.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.2 no.2
• /
• pp.150-158
• /
• 2000

This study investigated mechanical properties, drape coefficients and node indices of stretch fabrics. We applied mechanical properties to exhibited tailorability control in HESC and evaluated making-up. The mechanical properties such as tensile, bending, shearing, compression, surface characteristic values, thickness and weight were measured by the KES-F system and drape coefficient by drape tester. The summarized results of this study were as follows; First, stretch fabrics, almost, shown high stretch in weft inserted polyurethane yarn fabric and had a ${\pm}2{\sigma}$(sigma) range of shearing, compression, surface and thickness, except bending and weight, as compared with Japanese women's thin dress fabrics. Second, bending had a positive correlation in stiffness, anti-drape and flexibility & softness. Shearing had a negative correlation in crispness and scroop. Surface properties had a high contribution in fullness & softness. Third, The drape coefficient was found by measuring the mechanical properties according to the obtained regression equation. Forth, many problems are expected in overfeed and cutting operations in sewing process. In the decision of the good external appearance using TVA, only 26 of 55 samples are included in the range of the good external appearance. Fifth, in the regard of the result for sewing control, warp values are not necessary to control in the all kind of items. But weft value in the RT and EM are out of non-control zone. So we need a special management during sewing process.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
• /
• v.8 no.4
• /
• pp.345-354
• /
• 2005

In this study, the mechanical properties and hand characteristics have been analyze4 according to fabric structural parameters such as the weft density and weave stricture of cotton fabric. KES-FB system was used to measure hand characteristics and mechanical properties of fabric. The weft density made an effect on bending and shear properties but not on tensile , compression, and surface properties. In case of wearing property, B/w, 2HG/G, 2HB/B, 2HB/W, $\sqrt[3]{B/W}$, $\sqrt{2HB/W}$, W/T, WC/W were affected tv the weft density. The crimp was highly correlated with the tightness, hand, wearing an4 mechanical properties, specially tensile linearity, bending, shear, and compression properties. The weft crimp influenced the bending, shear, compression resilience, surface roughness, hand, and wearing properties. The tightness has an effect on tile bending, shear, compression, surface friction, hand, and wearing properties.