• 한국의류학회지
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• 제12권2호
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• pp.169-179
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• 1988

In the part 1, relations were found between fundmental mechanical properties and primary hand values, performance of Korean women's summer fabrics. In this paper, in order to investigate the hand values and mechanical properties such as tensile, shearing, bending, compression, surface and thickness & weight of the women's fall & winter fabrics were measured by KES-F system. Sorts of 90 commercial fabrics for women's fall & winter clothes were classfied into 39 silk and 51 polyester fabrics according to meterials. The experimental results were analysed statistically to relate the hand values and the mechanical properties and concerning to formation of weared clothes and transformation behavior were investigated. Furthermore, there mechanical properties as well as their hand values were discussed in comparison with those values for kimono fabrics. The main results are summarized as follows; 1. The shape of silk fabrics in formation for weared clothes show a box-shaped silhouette. Polyester fabrics has a easy to shape-less and make a silhouette which goes along with the body. 2. Silk fabrics for Korean women's fall & winter clothes have ${\pm}1\sigma$ range of bending, shearing, surface properties and thickness as compared with kimono fabrics. 3. A wrinkle recovery and drapability of silk fabrics for Korean women's fall & winter clothes are inferior to kimono fabrics. On the other hand, the fabrics for Korean women's fall & winter clothes have conical-shaped silhouette based on higher bending rigidity. 4. Except for flexibility with soft feeling, a primary factor of mechanical properties contributes to the hand values of fabrics for Korean women's fall & winter clothes having no concern with materials were same as the women's summer fabrics. 5. As for the hand values of fabrics for Korean folk clothes, stiffness, anti-drape stiffness are larger than those of kimono fabric and stiffness, anti-drape stiffness, crispness of fabrics for Korean women's fall & winter clothes have smaller values as compared with Korean women's summer fabrics.

• 감성과학
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• 제8권4호
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• pp.393-402
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• 2005

서로 다른 한국 전통 견직물의 촉감에 대한 주관적 감각의 한$\cdot$미 양국의 차이를 고찰하고 전통 견직물의 주관적 촉감에 영향을 미치는 역학적 성질을 규명하고자, 한국인과 미국인 각 20명을 대상으로 의미분별척도에 의하여 서로 다른 6개의 한국 전통 견직물의 촉감(딱딱함, 매끄러움, 성김, 시원함, 유연함, 까실거림, 무게, 두께)을 평가하였다. '매끄러움'과 '성금', '까실거림', '두꺼움'은 한$\cdot$미 양국인의 평가가 유사한 경향을 나타내어, 공단과 뉴똥은 매끄럽고 치밀하며 흐믈거리고 두껍다고 평가받은 반면, 갑사와 숙고사, 항라는 거칠고 성글며 까실 거리고 얇다고 평가되었다. '시원함'과 '유연함'에 대해서는 한$\cdot$미 양국인의 주관적 평가에 차이가 있어 '시원함'의 평가에서 한국인의 점수는 미국인에 비하여 직물별로 큰 차이를 나타내어 한국인은 전통 견직물 촉감의 '시원함'에 보다 민감한 것으로 나타났으며, '유연함'에 대해서는 한국인보다 미국인이 공단과 갑사, 숙고사의 촉감을 더 유연한 것으로 평가하였다. 견직물의 주관적 촉감을 예측하는 회귀식에서 한국인의 촉감은 표면특성과 굽힘 특성에 의해, 미국인의 촉감은 표면특성과 인장특성, 압축특성에 의해 주로 예측되었는데, 특히 미국인의 '시원함'은 압축회복성에 의해, '유연함'은 인장 회복성에 의해 예측되는 것으로 나타나, 미국시장을 위한 전통 견직물의 감성적 설계에 활용할 수 있을 것으로 기대된다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제15권2호
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• pp.199-209
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• 1991

In this paper, the fabrics for Korean folk clothes(KFC) undergoes repeated laundering under given condition. After this cyclic laundering was applied, the mechanical properties of the specimen were measured using KES-F system in order to evaluated the end-use performance of fabrics for KFC. And also, the crease recovery of fabrics for KFC were measured by shirley crease recovery tester. 78 different kinds of commercial silk fabrics and polyester fabrics for KFC were used for this study. The experimental results were analysed statistically to relate the mechanical properties and the crease recovery of fabrics for KFC. Furthermore, these changes in dimensional stability, mechanical properties and handle of fabrics for KFC were discussed in comparison with those values for silk fabrics and polyester fabrics. The results obtained are as follows. 1. Regardless of materials, remarkable increase are observed in shrinkage of the fabrics for KFC about repeated laundering, but dull increase are observed in shrinkage after 10 cycles of the repeated laundering. On the other hand, slack extend are observed in dimensions after 20 cycles of the repeated laundering. The shrinkage of fabrics for KFC after 10 cycles of the lundering showed that the silk fabrics are $1.74{\pm}0.33\%$ (warp direction) and $1.35{\pm}0.23\%$ (weft direction) and the polyester fabrics are $1.45{\pm}0.22\%$ (warp direction) and $1.25{\pm}0.23\%$ (weft direction). 2. Except for tensile property, these changes in mechanical properties of fabrics for KFC by laundering have $\pm$ 16 range of bending, shearing, compression, surface, thickness & weight as compared with before laundering. Particularly, the LT and RT about $1\~3$ cycles of the repeated laundering showed remarkable decrease. And SMD, WC, T & W of fabrics for KFC by the laundering were more increased than one for original fabrics. But B, 2HB, G, 2HG, 2HGS were decreased more than one for original fabrics. 3. 'Stiffness', 'Anti-drape', 'Crispness' and 'Scroop' hand values decrease and'Fullness & softness', 'Flexibility & softness' hand values increase with repeated laundering. 4. Remarkable decrease are observed in crease recoveries about $1\~5$ cycles of the repeated lundering, but slack decrease are observed in crease recoveries after 5 cycles of repeated laundering. The crease recovery of fabrics for KFC have negative(-) correlation with LT, RT, G, RC and MMD, This fact implies that the smaller these values, the larger the crease recovery. The crease recovery of fabrics for KFC has a high degree of correlation with the mechanical properties such as shearing, compression, surface property. And also, the crease recovery are expected by measuring the mechanical properties such as G, 2HG, 2HGS, RC, WC, LC, MIU, MMD and SMD, according to the obtained regression equation.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.684-695
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• 1995

The purpose of this study was to investigate the influence of the mechanical properties on drapability in the peach skin-like finished fabrics. For this study, the samples used were 50 kinds of peach skin-like finished fabrics. The mechanical properties such as tensile, shearing, bending, compressional, surface characteristic values, thickness and weight were measured with a KES-F system and drupe coefficient by drape tester. The relationship between the characteristic values and drape coefficicients of the peach skin-like finished fabrics results were obtained. 1. Peach skin-like finished fabric had $\pm$2o range of shearing, bending, compression, surface. properties, thickness and weight as compared with Japanese women's thin fabrics. The characteristic mixing values were better with the values of WC/T, W/T, etc. as compared with that of japanese women's thin fabrics. Accordingly, the peach skin-like finished fabrics had a little volume, excellent hanging and drapability as compared with japanese women's thin fabrics. 2. The drape coefficient of peach skin-like finished fabric had a high level of correlation between 2HB, G, WC, MIU, WT, MMD, 2HG, RT, W, B etc. of the mechanical properties. The blocked properties that contributed to the drape coefficient of peach skin-like finished fabrics were in the order of the bending> tensile> thickness> weight properties. This drape coefficients(DC) were found by measuring the mechanical properties according to the obtained regress on equate on. DC=99.0179+17.9023 log G -17.0543 log 2HG5+17.2104 log 2HG+35.7685 log 2HB+ 4.6082 log B-30.5906 log T+4.2308 log W 3. The contribution to the drape coefficient of the characteristic mixing values of peach skin-like finished fabric was in the order of > 2HB/W> 2HB/B> B/W The drape coefficients were found by measuring the characteristic mixing values according to the obtained regression equation. 4. The drape coefficients of peach skin-like finished fabrics were influenced by the differences between the bending of warp direction, bending of weft direction, shearing etc which in turn determine the level of hanging. The regression equation was as follows; 5. The drape coefficients of peach skin.like finished fabrics had a highly positive correlation with the node index. It has an negative correlation with number of nodes.