• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.10
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• pp.1467-1477
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• 2002

This study was investigated physical properties of stretch fabrics by KES-FB system to show suitable basic data to making skirts of excellent capacity and develop more organized basic skirt pattern by fitness evaluation. 1. The results of T. H. V.(Total Hand Value) were as followa: In the kind of blending fiber, cotton/spandex was more excellent than nylon/spandex and polyester/spandex, in the direction of stretch, one-way(weft inserted polyurethan yarn) polyester/spandex and cotton/spandex were higher than two-way(warp and wet inserted polyurethan yarn) polyester/spandes and cotton/spandex, two-way nylon/spandex was higher than one-way nylon/spandex. 2. The results of calculating the variance between sample stretch fabrics and Japanese s/s women's suit fabrics after standardizing were as follows: Stretch fabrics has 2 range of tensile, bending, shearing, compression, surface, thickness and weight as compared with Jpanese s/s women's suit fabrics. In the tensile property, one-way stretch fabrics were almost the same with Japanese s/s women's suit fabrics, only two-way polyester/spandex had+1～+2 range. In the bending, shear property, there was no difference between sample fabrics and Japanese s/s women's suit fabrics 3. In the total fitness of the skirt, nylon/spandex is the best in the fabrics and one-way stretch fabric is better than two-way strethch fabric.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.9
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• pp.1593-1602
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• 2001

본 연구는 스포츠 아우터웨어용 나일론 직물의 소리에 대한 주관적 감각과 이에 관련된 객관적 측정치를 규명하기 위하여, 서로 다른 8종의 나일론 직물의 소리의 스펙트럼 파형을 고찰하였으며, 소리 파라미터로 총음압(level pressure of total sound, LPT),세 가지 AR (autoregressive)계수, Zwicker의 심리음향학적 모델에 따른 크기(Z)와 날카로움(Z)를 계산하였고, Kawabata Evaluation System(KES)으로 직물의 물리적 성질을 측정하였다. 주관적 감각 평가를 위하여 피험자에게 녹음된 각 직물소리를 들려주어 7개 소리 감각 (부드러움, 시끄러움, 날카로움, 맑음, 거 침, 높음, 유쾌함)을 의미분별척도로 답하게 한 후, 단계적 선형 회귀식을 이용하여 직물 소리의 주관적 감각에 대한 예측 모델을 제시하였다. 울트라스웨이드를 제외한 태피터 나일론 직물들은 스펙트럼 파형 에서 다른 조성 섬유의 직물들보다 음압 값이 높고, 총음압이 60dB 안팎의 값을 보여, 착용자에게 불쾌감을 줄 것으로 예상되었으며, 주관적 감각 평가에서도 소리의 부드러움과 맑음, 유쾌함에서 음의 점수를, 시끄러움과 날카로움, 거침, 높음에서 양의 점수를 얻었다. 주관적 감각의 예측모델에서 총음압은 시끄러움과 거침에 정적 영향을, 유쾌함에 부적 영향을 미쳐서 나일론 직물 소리의 총음압이 50dB 이하일 때 주관적으로 유쾌하게 느껴지는 것으로 나타났다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.650-661
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to suggest a guidance to select proper muslin through investigating fabric characteristics. The structural and physical properties of muslin and top fabric samples were tested by KES-FB system and other testers. And in order to examine the relation between fabric characteristics and the shape of garments, wearing tests were done with jackets made of those samples. As a result, bending rigidity(B), bending hysteresis(2HB), shear stiffness(G), shear hysteresis at=0.5(2HG), shear hysteresis at=5(2HG5), stiffness, cloth count/5cm, weight, thickness were extracted as the key factors affecting the appearance of garments. To have similar appearance, all of these should be counted. After standardizing, we calculate the variance between top cloth and muslin. And from this we could get the range that the proper muslin should be included. The ranges were as follows: Bending rigidity(B): within 0.024g.$\textrm{cm}^2$/cm(0.3$\sigma$); Shear stiffness(G): within 2.21g/cm.degree(1.3$\sigma$) Weight: within 9.33mg/$\textrm{cm}^2$(18$\sigma$); Thickness: within 0.20mm(1.8$\sigma$)

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.8
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• pp.1273-1279
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• 2009

This study examined the difference in the mechanical properties of cotton fabrics treated with nano silver. Nano silver powder, UV-absorber, and DMDHEU are applied to cotton fabrics. The reagents added in a finishing solution were Triton X-100 and $MgCl_2$ $6H_2O$. The mechanical properties of the fabrics were measured by KES-FB system. From these, the primary hand values were evaluated by the conversion equation (KN-202-DS). The results of this study are summarized as follows. The fabric tensile properties and bending properties are increased by the application of nano silver, DMDHEU, and UV-absorber mixed. The values of tensile properties in the warp direction were significantly lower than those in the weft direction. However, the values of bending properties in the warp direction were higher than those in the weft direction. The differences in the values of compression parameters by nano silver coating were unnoticeable. However, the compression energy and resilience of compression in each fabric was increased by DMDHEU treatment. The SMD values of cotton fabrics are decreased by nano silver, DMDHEU, and UV-absorber mixed treatment.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.11 no.3 s.25
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• pp.79-88
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• 1987

In order to investigate the hand values and mechanical properties such as tensile, shearing, bending, compression, surface and thickness & weight of the women's summer fabrics were measured by KES-F system. Sorts of 78 commercial fabrics of women's summer cloth were classfied into 43 silk and 35 polyester fabrics according to materials. The experimental results were analysed statistically to relate the hand values and the mechanical properties and concerning to formation of weared clothes and transformation behavior were investigated. The main results are summarized as follows; 1. Polyester fabrics show higher tensile deformation than those of silk fabric. And also polyster fabric has a easy to shape-less and makes a silhouette which goes along with the body. 2. Silk fabrics is superior to polyester fabrics in formation and shear elasticity building box-shaped silhouette. 3. Polyester fabrics show sufficient ability to recover from tending deformation and drapability On the other hand, the compressibility and bending rigidity of silk fabrics were superior to polyester fabrics. 4. Regardless of materials, the bending properties is closely assocsiated with stiffness, anti-drape stiffness and flexibility with soft feeling. Fullness & softness and crispness is primarily influenced by surface properties. There is substantive relationship between scrooping and sheaing properties.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.67-72
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• 1987

This study was carried out for the optimum predegumming in the protease degumming process of silk fabrics by ocmparing the physical properties of silk fabrics degummed with different weight losses of predegumming. 1. In twill habutai, the stiffness of fabric was reduced and the smoothness was improved with increasing weight loss of predegmming, however, the soft feeling value which means the total handle value of medium fabric for lady, was maximum at 20% of predegumming weight loss. 2. In the case of crepe de chine representing thin fabric for lady, the anti-drape stiffness was relatively increased with 22% weight loss of predegumming. However, the other physical properties, such as the flexibility with soft feeling were less related to the degrees of predegumming.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.17 no.3 s.82
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• pp.8-15
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• 2005

Cationic dyeable polyester(CDP) fabric was annealed at varying temperatures range from $120^{\circ}C$ to $220^{\circ}C$ for 1, 3, and 5 min under tension. Dyeing rates of CDP fabrics were measured with cationic and disperse dyes at $100^{\circ}C$ and $120^{\circ}C$ in water system. Also X-ray diffraction pattern, DSC thermograms and dyeability of fabric with cationic and disperse dyes were investigated. The intensities of X-ray diffraction peaks of annealed fabric were increased with increasing in annealed temperature, and peak became sharp with heat setting temperature. The apparent color depth (K/S) of CDP fabric initially decreased with increase of heat-setting temperature up to $160\~180^{\circ}C$ and then increased at higher temperature. The shearing modulus(G) and surface roughness were increased with annealing temperature.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.28 no.2
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• pp.52-60
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• 1986

This study was carried out to compare the handle of silk fabrics degummed with Alkalase, Protease produced by bacteria, with of silkfabrics degummed with the soap-soda. 1. In twill habutae, the stiffiness of silk fabric degummed with Alkalase was lower than that of silkfabirc degummed with soap-soda. The soft feeling value which is meaning the total Mandle value of medium fabirc for lady, as well as the Smothness, were more improved in enzymatic degumming than in the soap-soda degumming. 2. In case of Crep De Chine representing thin fabric for lady, the stiffness and Anti-Drape stiffness of the fabric degummed with Alkalase were lower than those of fabric degummed with the soap-soda, but the fullness and the Flexibilit with smooth feeling which is meaning the Total Handle value were higher.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.79-93
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to determine the effect of dynamic characteristics of knitted fabrics on the clothing pressure of foundation. Five knitted fabrics of foundation were selected by different fiber types and blended ratios for the study. The dynamic characteristics of foundation wears made with five different fabrics were measured by KES-FB system method. The results of this study were as follows: 1. The tensile linearity and resilience of f1 were lower than those of other samples. While the tensile resistances of f1, f2 and f4 samples were high, the coefficients of friction of them were low. The bending rigidity and geometric roughness of f5 were higher than the others. 2. The clothing pressure of f3 all-in-one sample was the highest, and followed by f5, f4, f2 and f1, respectively. This result showed that the compression resilience affected on the clothing pressure greatly. 3. In terms of the clothing pressure by posture, the clothing pressure at $90^{\circ}$ bending posture was the highest and followed by that at standing and one-leg-up, respectively. The back part of abdomen was pressured most at $90^{\circ}$ bending posture.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.33-45
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• 2000

The handle were observed by objective and subjective method as the washing was repeated for 4 kinds(sample A, B, C, D) of materials which have different water vapor transmission, and the change of water vapor transmission each others. The results of factor analyses for 18 polar adjective words on subjective handle test yielded 4 factors, that were 'elastic property', 'surface property', 'thickness and weight property' and 'thermal and rigid property'. The surface properties were deteriorated remarkably as washing was repeated and significant difference were observed. Compared with the primary hand value for each materials, the statistical difference of samples was shown at Koshi and Fukurami measured by the KES-FB system. Koshi decreased for all the materials after repeated washing, and Fukurami had a tendency to increase for all the materials in proportion to repeated washing. Significant difference of total hand value wasn't shown in repeated washing number, but in fabric types.