• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.22 no.7
• /
• pp.862-871
• /
• 1998

In this study, the effect of sizing on the physical and mechanical characteristics of Hansan ramie was studied. 2 kinds of Hansan ramie were used for this study and one kind of the chinese ramie was also used for comparing with the characteristics of Hansan ramies. The following results were obtained from this experimental study. The wrinkle recovery angle was gradually reduced according to the increasing of the concentration of sizing agent. As the size agent could easily penetrate between the thick yarms, the effect of sizing on the wrinkle recovery angle was evident on the Chinese and Hansan coarse ramie. The result of KES-F system showed that the sizing affected much on the bending properties and shear properties. As the size concentration was increased the shear properties were increased more evidently on the Chinese and Hansan coarse ramie. The result of KES-F system showed that the sizing affected much on the bending properties and shear properties. As the size concentration was increased the shear properties were increased more evidently than the bending properties. The other mechanical properties didn't changed much by sizing. The calculated primary hand value also showed that the ramie became more stiff after sizing.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
• /
• 1999.03a
• /
• pp.219-219
• /
• 1999

마직물은 통기성, 흡수성, 투습성이 좋고 건조가 빠른 편이므로 여름철 직물로 많이 사용되어 왔다. 마직물은 또한 뻣뻣하며 몸에 감기지 않고 촉감이 깔깔하여 시원한 느낌을 주며 다른 직물에 비해 강직하고 표면이 거칠고 드레이프성이 떨어지는 등의 독특한 태를 가지고 있다. KES-F 시험기에 의해 여러 물성량들을 종합적으로 계측할 수 있게 됨에 따라 의복의 착용감에 만족을 주는 소재의 성능에 대한 연구가 종래의 주관적평가에서 KES-F 시스템을 이용하여 객관적으로 태를 예측하는 방법으로 진행되고 있다. 그러나 태를 평가하는 객관적 방법에서는 일반적으로 Kawabata와 Niwa에 의해 만들어진 평가식들이 주로 사용되나 이런 식들은 주로 모직물이나 합성섬유직물들을 평가하기에는 적합하지만 마직물의 독특한 태를 평가하기에는 부족하다고 생각된다. 마직물의 태가 기존의 객관적 평가방법만으로는 규명되지 않기 때문에 주관적 태평가방법을 아울러 실시해야 할 필요가 있다고 생각된다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 마직물의 태를 평가하는 방법의 하나로 주관적 평가척도를 개발하고 이 척도를 사용하여 마직물의 주관적인 태 특성을 살펴보았다. 그리고 KES-FB 시스템을 사용한 객관적인 태를 측정하여 주관적 평가치와 객관적 측정치로부터 태 평가의 산출식을 유도하였다. 실험에 사용된 직물은 혼방률, 밀도, 두께 등이 다양한 암, 저마 그리고 마혼방직물과 한산모시, 중국마, 신합섬 직물 등 총 54종을 사용하였다. 마직물의 주관적 태 평가를 위해 26문항의 형용사쌍으로 구성된 9점의 의미미분척도를 개발하였으며 이 척도를 사용해 주관적 평가를 실시하였다. 또 객관적 평가를 위해 KES-FB 시스템을 통해 역학적 특성치를 구하였다. 주관적 평가를 실시한 결과 마직물의 태에 영향을 미치는 7개의 요인이 추출되었다. 이 요인들은 표면성질, 신축성/드레이프성, 중량감, 강연성, 회복성, 수분특성, 밀도감이었으며, 요인들로 설명되는 누적분산값은 67.18%였다.주관적 평가의 결과와 객관적 평가 결과를 이용해 마직물의 태를 평가하는 산출식을 제시하였다. 태 평가치의 경우 16가지 특성치를 모두 넣는 방법과 stepwise 방법, 또 Kawabatark 사용한 순차적 군 회귀법의 세가지 방법의 회귀식 중 16가지 특성치를 모두 넣는 방법의 결정계수가 가장 높았다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.22 no.7
• /
• pp.807-815
• /
• 1998

Functions of interlinings to the shell fabric are to improve the garment formability for a beautiful silhouette and elastic potential to the deformed fabric during wearing, and also are to enhance appearance and wearing properties of garment. The objective of this study is to analyse the thermal properties of nonwoven fusible interlining to the thin worsted fabric with various fabric structural parameters. For the purpose fo this study, eight specimens with various weft yarn twists and weft densities of thin worsted fabrics are prepared. Three nonwoven fusible interlinings with different structure which were made by Nylon/Polyester were used for adhering to the thin worsted fabrics. Thermal properties of these 24 adhesive fabrics fused with 3 nonwoven interlinings are measured by KES-F7 System for analysing the thermal suitability of nonwoven fusible interlinings to the thin worsted fabrics with various fabric structural parameters. And air permeability, which was measured by KES-F8-API, of 24 nonwoven adhesive interlining fabrics was also analysed and discussed with the various kinds of nonwoven interlinings and fabric structural parameters.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
• /
• v.5 no.3
• /
• pp.47-52
• /
• 2002

The handle of fabrics including tactility and sense of visuality are closely related to the factors governing the preferences of end-users. This study shows the change of mechanical properties, thermal properties and optical properties by comparing two fabrics which are woven with circular shaped filaments and with triangular ones. The fabric mechanical characteristics required for primary hand values were evaluated with the KES-FB system. The mechanical properties measured by KES-FB system shows that fabrics made of circular filaments are greater than those made of triangular ones. The thermal properties measured by KES-F7(Thermo Labo II) system shows that the values of the initial maximum value(qmax) and the thermal conductivity(λ) are higher in the fabric made of triangular shaped ones. When the light rays tall on a surface, the fabric made of triangular filaments shows more lustrous than circular ones.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
• /
• v.7 no.4
• /
• pp.25-33
• /
• 2004

This study surveys the fabric surface properties such as mean value of the friction coefficient(MIU), mean deviation of the friction coefficient(MMD) and mean deviation of surface roughness(SMD) due to warp and weft tension differences using KES-FB system. For this purpose, fabric is designed as 5 harness Satin weave using 75d/36f warp and 100d/192f weft polyester filaments, and is woven by OmegaR rapier loom by Textec Co.Ltd and Picanol-GTXR rapier loom by Picanol Co.Ltd respectively. These grey fabrics are processed on the same dyeing and finishing processes. The fabric surface properties according to the weaving looms are analysed with warp and weft weaving tensions. And also surveyed the difference of fabric surface properties according to the fabric positions such as center and each edge of fabrics for the sensitive garment.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.13 no.4
• /
• pp.272-281
• /
• 2001

Shrink resist finishing of wool fabric was carried out with MONAMIN BTN shrink resist agent after chlorination with D.C.C.A.(dichloro isocyanuric acid). The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of treating conditions, such as concentrations of D.C.C.A and MONAMIN BTN, pH of treating bath, dying times, curing times and temperatures, on shrink resist finishing. Mechanical properties of the treated fabric were measured by KES-FB system. The optimum chlorination of wool corresponds to 2∼3%(o.w.f.) of D.C.C.A. without rendering the damage on surface of wool fiber. Also it seems likely that the shirink resist finishing carried out at 2 ∼3%(o.w.f.) of MONAMIN BTN and pH 7∼8 of treating bath is effective in increasing a softness of hand.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.2 no.1
• /
• pp.1-7
• /
• 1990

The cleaning resistance of tanned chrome garment leathers was investigated by using drycleaning solvents. Hydrocarbon, perchloroethylene and fluorocarbon (F-113) were used as solvent. Various test methods, such as color difference test, surface view by scanning electron microscope, mechanical properties measured by KES-FB System and their hand values and wearing abilities are carried out in this study. The results can be obtained as follows: 1. Fluorocarbon type (F-113) was demonstrated a suitable solvent for drycleaning of leather. 2. Perchloroethylene showed the worst in fading and stiffening among three different types of solvents.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.22 no.7
• /
• pp.816-825
• /
• 1998

This study surveys the thermal property and air permeability to the weight reduction rate of PET fabrics. For this purpose, 12 kinds of satin and 18 kinds of plain weave fabrics are prepared with change of the physical properties such as weft yarn count, t.p.m. and density. The weight reduction rate was 0%, 12%, 25% and 30%. The warm/cool feeling(Qmax), thermal insulating value(T.I.V.) and thermal conductivity(K) were measured by KES-F7 System and discussed in relation with the weight reduction rate, weft yarn linear density, t.p.m., weft density of fabric and weave structure.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.11 no.2
• /
• pp.9-18
• /
• 1999

In order to establish fundamental data for the betterment of Polyester microfiber fabric handle, a study by using fixed warp of ITY yarn samples with P/F, DTY, and ITY weft yarns was performed. For this purpose the samples of total 27 kinds were prepared. That is, each sample yarn was twisted in three ways and for each twisted yarn the fabric structures were modified in three ways, plain, twill, and satin. The examination was done by focusing on the point of the change of handles and the characteristics of the mechanical properties of the samples with the change of yarn and the fabric structure. The handles and the mechanical properties were examined with the KES-F system suggested by Kawabata. The results were as follows : 1. WT and MIU increased with increasing the twist. By comparing WT and MIU by yarn, DTY was higher than P/F. It appeared that twill and satin were higher than plain. 2. The bending rigidity change in DTY with increasing the twist was not significant, however in P/F it appeared apparently decreased with increasing the tlvist. Also, it appeared that when using P/F as weft the bending rigidity was higher than when using DTY and the twill structure appeared higher than the satin structure. 3. In shear force the increasing rates of plain and the twill were higher than satin. When DTY and P/F were used as weft, the shear force was higher in ITY and DTY than in P/F case. 4. Koshi appeared higher in the order of plain, twill and satin. When DTY and P/F were used as the weft Koshi increased with increasing the twist in plain, however in twill and satin it appeared to decrease. In hand value ITY(=7.5) appea.ed to be highe. than DTY and P/F(=6.5). 5. In all cases Shinayakasa decreased with increasing the twist. The hand values observed that satin was =4, twill was =3, and plain was =1.5. 6. Fukurami showed no significant change with increasing the twist in DTY, however in P/F and ITY it decreased.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
• /
• v.8 no.1
• /
• pp.125-134
• /
• 1999

The purpose of this study was to investigate the effects of heat transfer characteristics of fibers on the Qmax of insulating nonwovens. The effects of fiber type, moisture content, washing cycles on the Qmax were observed. The correlations between Qmax measured by KES-F7 system and subjective warm/cool touch perception test was analyzed. The results obtained were as followed: 1. Heat transfer characteristics of fibers effected on the Qmax of insulating nonwovens. 2. Moisture transport properties of fibers effected considerably on the Qmax of nonwovens and the increasing rate of Qmax by increasing moisture content was much higher at wool than polyester. 3. As a result of subjective perception test, subjective warm/cool touch and wettness of wool nonwoven was increased obviously by increasing moisture content. 4. At the same moisture content, wool nonwoven showed higher subjective cool touch and wetness than polyester. 5. In the physical properties of nonwovens, thickness was the most effective factor on the Qmax of insulating nonwovens.