• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.150-158
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• 2000

This study investigated mechanical properties, drape coefficients and node indices of stretch fabrics. We applied mechanical properties to exhibited tailorability control in HESC and evaluated making-up. The mechanical properties such as tensile, bending, shearing, compression, surface characteristic values, thickness and weight were measured by the KES-F system and drape coefficient by drape tester. The summarized results of this study were as follows; First, stretch fabrics, almost, shown high stretch in weft inserted polyurethane yarn fabric and had a ${\pm}2{\sigma}$(sigma) range of shearing, compression, surface and thickness, except bending and weight, as compared with Japanese women's thin dress fabrics. Second, bending had a positive correlation in stiffness, anti-drape and flexibility & softness. Shearing had a negative correlation in crispness and scroop. Surface properties had a high contribution in fullness & softness. Third, The drape coefficient was found by measuring the mechanical properties according to the obtained regression equation. Forth, many problems are expected in overfeed and cutting operations in sewing process. In the decision of the good external appearance using TVA, only 26 of 55 samples are included in the range of the good external appearance. Fifth, in the regard of the result for sewing control, warp values are not necessary to control in the all kind of items. But weft value in the RT and EM are out of non-control zone. So we need a special management during sewing process.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.312-318
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• 2014

This study examined the correlation between a handle evaluation of cosmetic puff textile and a sensory evaluation. The KES-F system was used to analyze the main mechanical factors for the handle evaluation and a statistical method was used for the sensory evaluation. The results revealed different mechanical properties and handle values of the tested cosmetic puff textiles. A material type and structure of the cosmetic textile affected the handle property of the material which is the most important factor for a cosmetic purpose. Particularly, the physical properties of textile material are likely to be important factors for the sensory property of cosmetic material. In addition, the sensory evaluation also revealed different sensory characteristics of the cosmetic efficiency according to the cosmetic puff textile. No close relationship was observed between the mechanical properties and sensory evaluation on the cosmetic puff textiles. The sensory evaluation of a cosmetic efficiency is not only decided by the physical and mechanical characteristics of the cosmetic textile material. Overall, when using textiles used for the cosmetic purposes, it is important to consider not only the proper mechanical properties of the textiles but also the use and sensory satisfaction. Development and selection of the cosmetic textiles should be focused on both the material function and consumer satisfaction.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제16권4호
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• pp.26-35
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• 2004

This study surveys the tension differences between Korean domestic and foreign looms and analyses fabric mechanical properties due to warp and weft tension differences using KES-FB system. Paper is divided by two parts. In this 1st paper, fabric is designed as 5 harness satin weave using 75d/36f warp and 100d/192f weft polyester filaments, and is woven by $Omega^\circledR$ rapier loom by Textec Co.Ltd and Picanol$-GTX^\circledR$ rapier loom by Picanol Co.Ltd respectively. These grey fabrics are processed on the same dyeing and finishing processes. Weavability is also analysed by measuring warp tension variation according to the warp position, the relationship between shed amount and the warp tension on one fixed heald frame is surveyed, and the relationship between end breaks and warp and weft tensions is also discussed.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제27권1호
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• pp.1-8
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• 1989

In order to investigate the mechanical properties such as tensile, bending, shearing, thickness and weight of the wool fabrics were measured by KES-F system. Samples were classified into blend ratio, weave type, fabric count. Blend ratio was classified into two groups, which are P/W blended fabric (p=63~65%, w=35~37%) and all wool fabric. Weave type was classified into four groups, which are plain, 3 harness twill, 4harness twill, satin. Cloth count was classified into three groups, which are loose, medium, tight. Statistical analysis was performed using T-test, F-test. The results were as follows; 1. There was significant difference in the thickness, tensile, bending, shearing according to the blend ratio. 2. According the weave, there was significant difference in the bending, weight and thickness in the P/W blended fabrics. There was significant difference in the tensile, weight, thickness, bending, shearing, shearing hysterisis (2HG) in the all wool fabrics. 3. There was significant difference in the shearing properties according to the fabric count.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제13권4호
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• pp.272-281
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• 2001

Shrink resist finishing of wool fabric was carried out with MONAMIN BTN shrink resist agent after chlorination with D.C.C.A.(dichloro isocyanuric acid). The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of treating conditions, such as concentrations of D.C.C.A and MONAMIN BTN, pH of treating bath, dying times, curing times and temperatures, on shrink resist finishing. Mechanical properties of the treated fabric were measured by KES-FB system. The optimum chlorination of wool corresponds to 2∼3%(o.w.f.) of D.C.C.A. without rendering the damage on surface of wool fiber. Also it seems likely that the shirink resist finishing carried out at 2 ∼3%(o.w.f.) of MONAMIN BTN and pH 7∼8 of treating bath is effective in increasing a softness of hand.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제16권5호
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• pp.48-53
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• 2004

This study surveys the tension differences between Textec and Vamatex looms and analyses fabric mechanical properties using KES-FB system according to warp and weft tension differences. Fabric is designed as 5 harness satin weave using 150d/48f warp and 200d/384f weft polyester filaments, and is woven by $Omega^{\circledR$-Panter rapier loom by Textec Co.Ltd and P1001es rapier loom by Vamatex Co.Ltd., respectively. These grey fabrics are processed on the same dyeing and finishing processes. Weavability is also analysed by measuring warp tension variation according to the warp position. The relationship between shed amount and the warp tension on one fixed heald frame is surveyed, and the relationship between end breaks and warp and weft tensions is also discussed.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제2권1호
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• pp.1-7
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• 1990

The cleaning resistance of tanned chrome garment leathers was investigated by using drycleaning solvents. Hydrocarbon, perchloroethylene and fluorocarbon (F-113) were used as solvent. Various test methods, such as color difference test, surface view by scanning electron microscope, mechanical properties measured by KES-FB System and their hand values and wearing abilities are carried out in this study. The results can be obtained as follows: 1. Fluorocarbon type (F-113) was demonstrated a suitable solvent for drycleaning of leather. 2. Perchloroethylene showed the worst in fading and stiffening among three different types of solvents.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.9-18
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• 1999

In order to establish fundamental data for the betterment of Polyester microfiber fabric handle, a study by using fixed warp of ITY yarn samples with P/F, DTY, and ITY weft yarns was performed. For this purpose the samples of total 27 kinds were prepared. That is, each sample yarn was twisted in three ways and for each twisted yarn the fabric structures were modified in three ways, plain, twill, and satin. The examination was done by focusing on the point of the change of handles and the characteristics of the mechanical properties of the samples with the change of yarn and the fabric structure. The handles and the mechanical properties were examined with the KES-F system suggested by Kawabata. The results were as follows : 1. WT and MIU increased with increasing the twist. By comparing WT and MIU by yarn, DTY was higher than P/F. It appeared that twill and satin were higher than plain. 2. The bending rigidity change in DTY with increasing the twist was not significant, however in P/F it appeared apparently decreased with increasing the tlvist. Also, it appeared that when using P/F as weft the bending rigidity was higher than when using DTY and the twill structure appeared higher than the satin structure. 3. In shear force the increasing rates of plain and the twill were higher than satin. When DTY and P/F were used as weft, the shear force was higher in ITY and DTY than in P/F case. 4. Koshi appeared higher in the order of plain, twill and satin. When DTY and P/F were used as the weft Koshi increased with increasing the twist in plain, however in twill and satin it appeared to decrease. In hand value ITY(=7.5) appea.ed to be highe. than DTY and P/F(=6.5). 5. In all cases Shinayakasa decreased with increasing the twist. The hand values observed that satin was =4, twill was =3, and plain was =1.5. 6. Fukurami showed no significant change with increasing the twist in DTY, however in P/F and ITY it decreased.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권8호
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• pp.958-968
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to clarify the different mechanical properties of fabrics among the theme groups classified by fashion fabric trend. This study can be useful for fabric marketers and planners to design new products. In order to carry out this study, the fabric samples of representative theme for‘2002/03 F/W fashion fabric trend were collected from a fashion company and were measured to analyze the mechanical properties, hand value(H.V) and total hand value(T.H.V) by KES-FB System. The results were as follows. 1. The theme-A of‘Luxury, Elegance’was consisted of wool, rayon and PET and had a lower B, 2HB of bending properties and a lower G and 2HG5 of shear properties. The theme-B of‘Technical, Functional’was consisted of synthetic fibers such as PET, PA, PU and elastic fiber and had a higher MIU and a lower MMD, SMD of surface properties. The theme-C of‘Vintage, Aged’was consisted of mostly cotton and had the highest B and 2HB. The theme-D of‘Fancy, Airy’was consisted of mostly woolen wool, polyacryl and polyamide and had a high MMD and SMD of surface properties and a high LC and RC of compression properties. 2. As the results of analyzing H.V and T.H.V through KES-FB system, the theme-A showed a higher Smoothness and lower Stiffness. The theme-B had a lower Smoothness, Fullness, Soft feeling and T.H.V and the theme-C had the highest Stiffness. The theme-D showed the highest Fullness and Soft Feeling but the lowest Stiffness.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.125-134
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to investigate the effects of heat transfer characteristics of fibers on the Qmax of insulating nonwovens. The effects of fiber type, moisture content, washing cycles on the Qmax were observed. The correlations between Qmax measured by KES-F7 system and subjective warm/cool touch perception test was analyzed. The results obtained were as followed: 1. Heat transfer characteristics of fibers effected on the Qmax of insulating nonwovens. 2. Moisture transport properties of fibers effected considerably on the Qmax of nonwovens and the increasing rate of Qmax by increasing moisture content was much higher at wool than polyester. 3. As a result of subjective perception test, subjective warm/cool touch and wettness of wool nonwoven was increased obviously by increasing moisture content. 4. At the same moisture content, wool nonwoven showed higher subjective cool touch and wetness than polyester. 5. In the physical properties of nonwovens, thickness was the most effective factor on the Qmax of insulating nonwovens.