• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.141-148
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• 2012

This study investigated the structural coloration and fabric hand of the caustic reduced fabrics for emotional garment using structural color yarns, which was spun by 37 alternating nylon and polyester layers capable of producing basic colors using biomimetic technology. The colorations of the three kinds of structural color yarns were confirmed using multi angle spectro-photometer, and their triangular cross sections composed with 37 alternating nylon and polyester layers were measured using SEM and were discussed with layer length in relation with coloration and spinning conditions were also set up. The apparent color difference and reflectance of the three kinds of fabrics with different density and weave pattern were analysed as ranging from 400nm to 700nm. The optimum fabric structural design which is made by warp and weft densities(194ends/in ${\times}$ 105picks/in) and caustic reduction condition by $100^{\circ}C$ temperature and 60minutes with NaOH, 20g/l solution were decided through analysis of the mechanical properties and fabric hands of these three kinds of fabrics treated with 3 kinds of the caustic reduction conditions. And it was shown that the rate of caustic reduction was increased from 13% to 23% with increasing temperature and time of caustic reduction. The extensibility, bending rigidity and shear modulus of caustic reduction treated fabrics were decreased by treatment of caustic reduction, on the other hand fabric compressibility was increased. And it was shown that the hand value of specimen number one which was treated with temperature $100^{\circ}C$ and time 60minute was the best and the hand of this fabric was better than that of Morpho $fabric^{(R)}$ made by Teijin co. Japan.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.15 no.2 s.38
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• pp.199-209
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• 1991

In this paper, the fabrics for Korean folk clothes(KFC) undergoes repeated laundering under given condition. After this cyclic laundering was applied, the mechanical properties of the specimen were measured using KES-F system in order to evaluated the end-use performance of fabrics for KFC. And also, the crease recovery of fabrics for KFC were measured by shirley crease recovery tester. 78 different kinds of commercial silk fabrics and polyester fabrics for KFC were used for this study. The experimental results were analysed statistically to relate the mechanical properties and the crease recovery of fabrics for KFC. Furthermore, these changes in dimensional stability, mechanical properties and handle of fabrics for KFC were discussed in comparison with those values for silk fabrics and polyester fabrics. The results obtained are as follows. 1. Regardless of materials, remarkable increase are observed in shrinkage of the fabrics for KFC about repeated laundering, but dull increase are observed in shrinkage after 10 cycles of the repeated laundering. On the other hand, slack extend are observed in dimensions after 20 cycles of the repeated laundering. The shrinkage of fabrics for KFC after 10 cycles of the lundering showed that the silk fabrics are $1.74{\pm}0.33\%$ (warp direction) and $1.35{\pm}0.23\%$ (weft direction) and the polyester fabrics are $1.45{\pm}0.22\%$ (warp direction) and $1.25{\pm}0.23\%$ (weft direction). 2. Except for tensile property, these changes in mechanical properties of fabrics for KFC by laundering have $\pm$ 16 range of bending, shearing, compression, surface, thickness & weight as compared with before laundering. Particularly, the LT and RT about $1\~3$ cycles of the repeated laundering showed remarkable decrease. And SMD, WC, T & W of fabrics for KFC by the laundering were more increased than one for original fabrics. But B, 2HB, G, 2HG, 2HGS were decreased more than one for original fabrics. 3. 'Stiffness', 'Anti-drape', 'Crispness' and 'Scroop' hand values decrease and'Fullness & softness', 'Flexibility & softness' hand values increase with repeated laundering. 4. Remarkable decrease are observed in crease recoveries about $1\~5$ cycles of the repeated lundering, but slack decrease are observed in crease recoveries after 5 cycles of repeated laundering. The crease recovery of fabrics for KFC have negative(-) correlation with LT, RT, G, RC and MMD, This fact implies that the smaller these values, the larger the crease recovery. The crease recovery of fabrics for KFC has a high degree of correlation with the mechanical properties such as shearing, compression, surface property. And also, the crease recovery are expected by measuring the mechanical properties such as G, 2HG, 2HGS, RC, WC, LC, MIU, MMD and SMD, according to the obtained regression equation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.684-695
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• 1995

The purpose of this study was to investigate the influence of the mechanical properties on drapability in the peach skin-like finished fabrics. For this study, the samples used were 50 kinds of peach skin-like finished fabrics. The mechanical properties such as tensile, shearing, bending, compressional, surface characteristic values, thickness and weight were measured with a KES-F system and drupe coefficient by drape tester. The relationship between the characteristic values and drape coefficicients of the peach skin-like finished fabrics results were obtained. 1. Peach skin-like finished fabric had $\pm$2o range of shearing, bending, compression, surface. properties, thickness and weight as compared with Japanese women's thin fabrics. The characteristic mixing values were better with the values of WC/T, W/T, etc. as compared with that of japanese women's thin fabrics. Accordingly, the peach skin-like finished fabrics had a little volume, excellent hanging and drapability as compared with japanese women's thin fabrics. 2. The drape coefficient of peach skin-like finished fabric had a high level of correlation between 2HB, G, WC, MIU, WT, MMD, 2HG, RT, W, B etc. of the mechanical properties. The blocked properties that contributed to the drape coefficient of peach skin-like finished fabrics were in the order of the bending> tensile> thickness> weight properties. This drape coefficients(DC) were found by measuring the mechanical properties according to the obtained regress on equate on. DC=99.0179+17.9023 log G -17.0543 log 2HG5+17.2104 log 2HG+35.7685 log 2HB+ 4.6082 log B-30.5906 log T+4.2308 log W 3. The contribution to the drape coefficient of the characteristic mixing values of peach skin-like finished fabric was in the order of > 2HB/W> 2HB/B> B/W The drape coefficients were found by measuring the characteristic mixing values according to the obtained regression equation. 4. The drape coefficients of peach skin-like finished fabrics were influenced by the differences between the bending of warp direction, bending of weft direction, shearing etc which in turn determine the level of hanging. The regression equation was as follows; 5. The drape coefficients of peach skin.like finished fabrics had a highly positive correlation with the node index. It has an negative correlation with number of nodes.

• Journal of Korean Society on Water Environment
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• v.34 no.2
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• pp.183-201
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• 2018

The tolerance of Korean benthic macroinvertebrates to organic pollution has been analyzed since the early 1990s. However, considering the fact that there have been related studies carried out in some European countries since the early 20th century, the history of the research in Korea is very short and there is still much knowledge to supplement. We revised the saprobic valency, the saprobic value and the indicator weight value of 190 benthic macroinvertebrates taxa through the data of water quality and individual abundance collected from 7,086 sampling units in Korea from 2008 to 2014. The individual abundance of Uracanthella (Ephemeroptera) as a representative, one of the most common and abundant taxa in Korea, showed a typical lognormal distribution to 5-day biochemical oxygen demand (BOD5) concentration, and a normal distribution to the class interval of BOD5 concentration according to saprobic series. The value combining the mean individual abundance and the relative frequency of occurrence was a more efficient indicator value than that of each property alone. Benthic Macroinertebrates Index (BMI) was newly proposed as a modification of the saprobic index of Zelinka and Marvan (1961). BMI showed extremely significant correlation (determination coefficient $r^2$ > 0.6, n = 569 sites) with the concentration of BOD5, and the coefficient was a little higher than those of the previous indices. Until now, there has been very little research on the assessment of biological integrity of benthic macroinvertebrates community in Korea. While continuing researches into improve the reliability of BMI, it is necessary to develop multimetric indices for evaluating the integrity, including the composition of species and functional guilds, and the richness and diversity of the community.