• Title/Summary/Keyword: Jeonbok(戰服)

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Effect of Different Mixing Ratio and Cooking on Sensory and Nutritional Characteristics of Jeonbok- and Obunjaki-Jooks (전복죽과 오분자기죽의 재료 배합비가, 기호도에 미치는 영향)

  • 양미영;손정우;염초애
    • Korean journal of food and cookery science
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    • v.12 no.3
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    • pp.353-360
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    • 1996
  • The purpose of this study was to investigate optimum cooking and ingredient mixing ratio of Jeonbok- and Obunjaki-jooks. It is traditional in Cheju island to prepare Jeonbok-jook with viscera and to use Obuniaki in stead of Jeonbok because of its abundance and economic advantage. Therefore, an attempt was made to search the optimum ingredient ratio, especially the amount of viscera in Jeonbok-and Obunjaki-jooks. By proximate analysis, feonbok and Obunjaki had the same nutritional composition, but the viscera of Obunjaki had more lipid than that of Jeonbok. All nutrients except to total sugars increased with the increase of meat and viscera in leonbok- and Obunjaki-jooks. However Obunjaki-jook showed the better protein quantity In sensory evaluation, as meat ratio increased, the intensity of savory taste and overall acceptability increased. Jeonbok- and Obunjaki- jooks with 40% meat without viscera had the best savory taste and overall acceptabilit y. Jeonbok- and Obunjakijooks with 4% viscera had better overall acceptability than those without viscera, regardless of meat ratio.

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A Study on the Costume of Female Shaman in the Late Joseon's Gamrotaenghwa (Part 2) (조선후기 감로탱화를 통해서 본 무녀복식에 관한 연구 (제2보))

  • Min, Bo-Ra;Hong, Na-Young
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.31 no.8
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    • pp.1190-1201
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    • 2007
  • This study is to review the costumes of female Shamans through Gamrotaenghwa(甘露幀畵) in the late Joseon Dynasty of the 18th and 19th centuries. The picture of Mudangnaeryeok(巫堂來歷) showing Shamanic performances which is kept in Kyujanggak, Seoul National University was the only one thing enabling to compare with the Shamanic costumes shown in Gamrotaenghwa. The earlier Gamrotaenghwa doesn't show the Shamanic features but that of the later part of 18th century shows specific costumes so that the scene of Shamanic performance can be guessed. The Shamanic costumes are classified into 5 types. Type A is considered to have followed the figures shown commonly in earlier Gamrotaenghwa of the 16th and 17th centuries, rather than the traditional costumes. Types B through E show the costumes of the Joseon dynasty. With the basic costumes of skirt and Chogori(a kind of jacket, Type B), the variable costumes worn for each type of Shamanic performances are Mongduri(蒙頭里, Type C), Jeonbok(戰服, Type D) and Cheolrik(天翼, Type E). Reviewing the general style of those costumes, the upper part was tight and the lower part was silhouette of big volume, and the length of Chogori was a little long in the early of 18th century but it became shorter with narrower sleeves from the later part of the same century. According to the general literatures about the outer collars were not overlapped and its side parts were open, with half or no sleeves. In case that the target of Shamanic performance is male god, the Shaman wore the male costumes represented by Cheolrik and Jeonbok. Because these Cheolrik and Jeonbok which were worn during the Shamanic performance have the symbolic meaning to correspond with the male god, they didn't function as ordinary costumes.

Low-Level Officials' Costumes as Illustrated in Tamna-Sullyeokdo at the Era of King Sukjong of the Joseon Dynasty (조선 숙종조 탐라순력도를 통해 본 하급관원 복식)

  • Lee, Joo-Young;Jang, Hyun-Joo
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.57 no.6 s.115
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    • pp.172-183
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    • 2007
  • The purpose of this study is to examine the dress and its ornaments of low-level officials shown in Tamna-Sullyeokdo, the paintings of the inspection tour of Jeju Island. The low-level officials Include low-level soldiers-sungjungun, gichigun, foot soldiers, cavalries, gunroe, ilsu, artillerymen, najang, and sawon-, musicians, servants, and kisaengs in government employ. 1. Different types of low-level soldiers tended to wear different kinds of clothes that is worn under an outer garment and to wear different coats and trousers depending on an outer garment. That is, sungjunggun, gichigun, foot soldiers, and cavalries were jeonbok over a jeogori and baji. On the other hand, gunroe, ilsu, artillerymen, and najang were houi or jakui over a jeogori and baji. However, Sawon simply were Jeonbok or armer or they wore Cheolik in formal occasions. 2. Musicians wore a jeonlib, a type of hat, decorated with an ear of barley and a red houi over a Jungchimak, a man's outer coat with large sleeves. Musicians wore colorful red clothes in order to add to the amusement during military trainings or banquets. 3. Servants in government employ had their hair in plaits and wore a jeonbok over a Jungchimak or baji and jeogori. However, when they dance during banquets, they were cheolik and jeonlib decored with/without an ear of barley or red flowers. 4. Gisaengs in government employ wore a gache on their head and wonsam, a woman's full dress during big occasions. They, on the other hand, wore a jeogoli and chima for regular occasions.

A Study on Flower Patterned Fabrics of Exhumed Clothing in Chosun Dynasty (조선시대 출토직물에 나타난 화문직의 특성에 관한 연구)

  • Park, Mun-Young;Kim, Ho-Jung
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.10 no.1
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    • pp.22-29
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    • 2008
  • In this study, it is investigated the types and the compounding method of flower patterns and the uses of flower patterned fabrics in Chosun Dynasty. Research was done through the references of exhumed clothing during 16-17th century. Our ancestors had used the various flower patterns based on Buddhism, Taoism and Confucianism onto the fabrics. The flower patterns on the fabrics were expressed with the other patterns such as treasure patterns, letter patterns or bird patterns. And the flower patterns symbolized the various good meanings such as longevity, integrity and prosperity etc. In the order of the percentage, the types of the flower patterns were shown Lotus(27.31%), Arabesque(26.85%), Japanese apricot(14.81%), Peony(8.79%), Flowering plants(6.94%), Chrysanthemum(6.01%), Pomegranate(2.31%) patterns and so on. Especially the Lotus pattern was shown up most frequently. That of shape was designed as blooming(開花), full bloom(滿開) and the side of flower(側面). By the compounding method, the compound types mixed with the other patterns were used much more than the individual types composed by its own pattern. The flower patterns were used a lot in Jeogori(Jacket) regardless of the ganders and in men's Po(coat) including Cheollik(天翼), Dappo(胡), Jeonbok(戰服), Dahnryoung(團領), etc. Also contrary to these days, the flower patterned fabrics had come out in the shrouds. Judging from these facts, our ancestors wished that the meaning of the immortal life was included in the flower pattern.

Features of the Costumes of Officials in the King Jeongjo Period Seojangdaeyajodo (정조대 <서장대야조도(西將臺夜操圖)>의 관직자 복식 고증)

  • LEE, Eunjoo;KIM, Youngsun;LEE, Kyunghee
    • Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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    • v.54 no.2
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    • pp.78-97
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    • 2021
  • Seojangdaeyajodo is a drawing of military night training on February 12th (lunar leap month), 1795. Focusing on the Seojangdaeyajodo, the characteristics and of the costumes worn by various types of officials were examined. There were 34 officials located near King Jeongjo in and around Seojangdae, with 27 Dangsanggwan and 7 Danghagwan. They wore three types of costumes, including armor, yungbok, and military uniforms. All of the twelve armor wearers and the five officials wearing yungbok were dangsanggwan, and the military uniform wearers included eleven dangsanggwan and six danghagwan. For the shape of the armor, the armor relics of General Yeoban, suitable for riding horses, and the armor painting of Muyedobotongji were referenced, and the composition of the armor was based on practicality. The armor consists of a helmet, a suit of armor, a neck guard, armpit guards, arm guards, and a crotch guard. The color of the armor was red and green, which are the most frequently used colors in Seojangdaeyajodo. The composition of yungbok was jurip, navy cheollik, red gwangdahoe, socks made of leather, and suhwaja. The composition of the military uniform was a lined jeolrip, dongdari, jeonbok, yodae, jeondae, and suhwaja. There were differences in the fabrics used in dangsanggwan and danghagwan military uniforms. Dangsanggwan used fabric with depictions of clouds and jewels, and danghagwan used unpatterned fabric. Moreover, jade, gold, and silver were used for detailed ornamental materials in dangsanggwan. The weapons included bows and a bow case, a sword, a rattan stick, wrist straps, and a ggakji. In the records of the King Jeongjo period, various colored heopsu were mentioned; the colors of the dongdari and jeonbok of dangsanggwan and danghagwan were referenced in various colors. It was presented as an illustration of costumes that could be used to produce objects accurately reflecting the above historical results. The basic principle of the illustration was to present the modeling standards for 3D content production. Samples of form, color, and material of the corresponding times and statuses were presented. The front, the side, and the back of each costume and its accessories were presented, and the colors were presented in RGB and CMYK.

Korean Traditional Children's Clothes in Modern Times (근대 아동한복 연구)

  • Cho, Hyo-Sook;Choi, Eun-Soo
    • Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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    • v.45 no.1
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    • pp.63-73
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    • 2007
  • Korean children's clothes have unique aesthetic characteristics distinguished from other countries'. Our folk beliefs handed down from ancient times always contained fortune - seeking thoughts and particularly mothers' earnest wishes for the happiness of their children were sublimated into the symbolic beauty of their children's clothes. The present study examined children's clothes in the royal family and among the people for 50 years of the transitional period from the late Joseon Dynasty to modern times, by classifying them into ritual dress for new-born babies, festival dress and everyday dress. Male children's clothes included caps such as Bokgeon(복건), Hogeon(호건) and Gulle(굴레) topcoats such as Durumagi(두루마기), Sagyusam(사규삼) Koija(쾌자) and Jeonbok(전복) and others such as Magoja(마고자), Baeja(배자), Joggi(조끼) and Bajijeogori(바지저고리), Female children's clothes included caps and head ornaments such as Gulle, Jobawi(조바위) and Daenggi(댕기) and others such as Durumagi, Jegori and Chima(치마). What is interesting is that old clothes handed down to the present are mostly boys' and few of them are girls'. This is probably because of the strong preference for boys rather than girls that continued until the end of the 20th century. Ordinary people dressed their new - born babies with simple white clothes until Samchilil (the 21st day) or Baekil (the 100thday) but, for these occasions, the royal family prepared clothes as formal as those for the $1^{st}$ birthday among the public. Rainbow-striped garments were more popular among the public than in the royal family. As rainbow colors were known to Korean people to dispel evil power and bring in fortunes, rainbow - striped garments were essential for the $1^{st}$ birthday and festive days. However, they were seldom used in ordinarytimes, and most boys and girls wore plain jackets and plain topcoats. When children's clothes in noble families were compared with royal family's ones, either handed down to the present or found in old literature, no significant difference was observed in the basic composition of everyday dress. In particular, it was found that Andong Kim's family had dressed their children with very formal dress such as Dopo and Sagyusam. Among children's clothes, the most gorgeous one was that worn on the $1^{st}$ birthday, and those for other occasions or festive days were similar or simpler. Colors, patterns and designs used in decorating children's clothes mostly had the meanings of seeking fortunes for children such as long life, wealth and prosperity.

Analysis of Clothing in a Painting Album of a 60th Wedding Anniversary Feast in the Collection of the National Museum of Korea (국립중앙박물관 소장 《회혼례도첩》 속 등장인물의 복식 고찰)

  • LEE Eunjoo
    • Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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    • v.56 no.3
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    • pp.76-98
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    • 2023
  • The results of analyzing the outfits of male and female characters depicted in the "Hoehonryedocheop" (回婚禮圖帖, Deoksu 6375) held by the National Museum of Korea and estimating its production date of the "Hoehonryedocheop"are as follows. Firstly, an elderly groom is depicted wearing a patterned heukdanryeong (黑團領) with rank badges, a garment commonly donned by government officials in works such as "Jeonanryedo (奠鴈禮圖)" and "Gyobaeryedo (交拜禮圖)". And the old groom in "Heonsuryedo (獻壽禮圖)" "Jeobbindo (接賓圖)" and "Jungroeyeondo (重牢宴圖)" is shown wearing a jarip (purple hat) without a paeyoung (ornamental jewelry strap), accompanied by jade colored robe with a red strap belt. Gireokabeom (雁夫) is observed wearing a jarip (紫笠) adorned with a paeyoung (貝纓) and a patternless heukdanryeong with rank badges. Adult male descendants are depicted wearing dopo (道袍), while guests wear dopo, cheolrik (帖裏), and jikryeong (直領), accompanied by red and blue straps denoting their social status. Jingssi (徵氏), sidong (侍童), and young grandchildren are observed wearing jungchimak(中赤莫). The young servants are wearing jungchimak, and the boys carrying the food have braided their hair and worn sochangu (小氅衣), while adults servants wore jeonrip (氈笠) and sochangui. Performers are seen clad in a sochangui, jeonbok, and a blue sash around their waists. Secondly, the elderly bride is portrayed wearing a keunmeori (ceremonial headdress) and a green wonsam (圓衫) in "Gyobaeryedo," while in "Heonsuyeondo," she is depicted in a blue skirt and a jade colored jeogori (赤古里). Women descendants are shown adorning headdress decorations, such as binyeo(簪), banja(斑子) and pearl daenggi (眞珠唐紒) on their eoyeomeori (於于味, ceremonial headdress). They are further dressed in skirts of navy, red, and jade hues, paired with various-colored jeogori. Additionally, a woman wearing a navy skirt and a green jangot (長衣) is also depicted. The dongnyeo (童女, unmarried women) wear beolsaengmeri (娘子雙髻), headdress) with long binyeo and long dodaik-daenggi (都多益唐只). They wear chilbo-jokduri (七寶簇頭里) and a red skirt with a green hoejang-jeogori (回裝赤古里). Bija (婢子) wears garima (加里亇) on her eoyeomeori and is seen dressed in skirts and jeogori resembling those worn by noble women, albeit with lighter colors, shorter skirt length, and a subdued volume. Ginyeo's attire bears similarities to that of noble women, although with a dress with less vibrant tones and devoid of decorations on the eoyeomeori. Thirdly, based on the main character's jarip, along with the cheolrik and jikryeong worn by the guests, as well as the performances by musicians of the military camp, it is suggested that the main character of the 60th wedding anniversary is connected to the Ministry of Military Affairs or the military camp. Judging by the military band's short-sleeved vest, the silhouettes of the women dress, and the headdresses, it is likely that the "Hoehonryedocheop" was produced between the 1760s and 1780s.

An Essay on the Change of Jinju Sword Dance after being designated as an Important Intangible Cultural Asset (<진주검무> 중요무형문화재 지정 이후의 변화에 관한 소고)

  • Lee, Jong Sook
    • Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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    • v.49 no.1
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    • pp.4-21
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    • 2016
  • The purpose of this study is to investigate changes of Jinju Sword Dance, characteristics of the changes, and the current condition of its preservation and succession after the designation as the important intangible cultural property no. 12 in January 16th, 1967. In other words, this study understands the situation which has established the present state of after changes over generations. As of now. the year of 2015, the 3 generation holders have been approved since 1967. In 1967, 8 members of $1^{st}$ generation holders were selected from gisaengs of Gwonbeon. However, the succession training was incomplete due to conflicts among the holders, the deaths of some holders, and economic activities of the individuals. As the need of a pivot for succession training and activities was rising, Seong, Gye-Ok was additionally approved as the $2^{nd}$ generation holder on June $21^{st}$, 1978. Seong, Gye-Ok who had never been a gisaeng had dramatically changed with a lot of new attempts. After the death of Seong, Gye-Ok in 2009, Kim, Tae-Yeon and Yu, Yeong-Hee were approved as the $3^{rd}$ generation holders in February, 2010. Based on the resources including the "Cultural Research Reports of Important Intangible Cultural Properties" in 1966 and videos up to 2014, the changes of the dance and surroundings are as follow. 1. The formation of musical accompaniment has been changed during the 3 generations. In the video of the $1^{st}$ generation(in 1970), the performance lasted about 15 minutes, whereas the performance lasted 25 minutes in the video of the $2^{nd}$ generation. Yumbuldoduri rhythm was considered as Ginyumbul(Sangryeongsan) and played more slowly. The original dance requiring only 15 rhythms was extended to 39 rhythms to provide longer performance time. In the $3^{rd}$ generation, the dance recovered 15 rhythms using the term Ginyumbul. The facts that Yumbul was played for 3 minutes in the $1^{st}$ generation but for 5 minutes in the 3rd generation shows that there was tendency pursuing the slowness from the $2^{nd}$ generation. 2. For the composition of the Dance, the performance included additional 20 rhythms of Ginyumbul and Ah(亞)-shaped formation from the $2^{nd}$ generation. From the $3^{rd}$ generation, the performance excluded the formation which had no traditional base. For the movement of the Dance, the bridge poses of Ggakjittegi and Bangsukdoli have been visibly inflexible. Also, the extention of time value in 1 beat led the Dance less vibrant. 3. At the designation as an important intangible cultural property (in 1967), the swords with rotatable necks were used, whereas the dancers had been using the swords with non-rotatable necks since late 1970s when the $2^{nd}$ generation holder began to used them. The swords in the "Research Reports" (in 1966) was pointy and semilunar, whereas the straight swords are being used currently. The use of the straight swords can be confirmed from the videos after 1970. 4. There is no change in wearing Jeonlib, Jeonbok, and Hansam, whereas the arrangement of Saekdong of Hansam was different from the arrangement shown in the "Research Reports". Also, dancers were considered to begin wearing the navy skirts when the swords with non-rotatable necks began to be used. Those results showed that has been actively changed for 50 years after the designation. The $2^{nd}$ generation holder, Seong, Gye-Ok, was the pivot of the changes. However, , which was already designated as an important intangible cultural property, is considered to be only a victim of the change experiment from the project to restore Gyobang culture in Jinju, and it is a priority to conduct studies with historical legitimacy. First of all, the slowing beat should be emphasized as the main fact to reduce both the liveliness and dynamic beauty of the Dance.