• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.31-47
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• 1979

1. The old Korean costume had two different kind of dress, one was a military uniform (Goon bok) for military only and the other was uniform (Yoongbok) for civilian and militarian. 2. The military uniform (Goonbok) were dressed under armour, was for war time. And the civilian and military uniform were dressed under Mo (Hat) and Po (Coat dress), was for War time or emergent case. 3. Armour were made of leather in ancient times but later they were made of metal. 4. In generally, armour is classified; 1) To protect neck 2) To protect shoulders and arms 3) To protect breast 4) To protect both legs 5) To protect hands 5. Armour and military uniform (Goonbok) for military only. at the time of three Nations (Ko-kuryo, Bakje. Silla) 1) Armour-a) Identified by found relics or ancient wall picture. b) They had improver! armour. c) Armour of three Nations were resembled each other. 2) Military uniform(Goonbok) a) The Jeogori reached to hip area was called Jangyoo. b) The pants were tight trousers. 6. Armour and military uniform (Goonbok) for military only at Koryo Dynasty. 1) They had improved armour like three nation's age. 2) They were made of iron. leather, paper or cloth 3) The color was white. puple. red. 4) Military uniform(Goonbok) a) Hat-(1) Banggak (2) Josamoja (3) Ibgak (4) Jakwan (5) Sabgak (6) Sumale (7) Jaragwan (8) Kummoja (9) Mubyunkwan (10) Pyungyunchek b) Dress-(l) Jayeisokade (2) Bosanghwa Gayendae (3) Hongbeja Rokrahansam (4) Jag- ongbok Hongeung (5) Jagongbok Jogeung (6) Kumyeisokdae (7) Bilapeja Rokrahansam (8) Jasupoto (9) Kumyei Honggung (10) Kumyei Dokuyeunsokdae (11) Bibosunghwa Dongokumdae (12) Bidaesuyei Kayeundae (13) Jasosulansam (14) Biyeiko (15) Chung-yei Dongsim Sokdae 7. Armour and military uniform of Lee Dynasty 1) Armour-a) the Helmets were attached with visor ar without visor, and later it was added the neck protecter. b) dresses were given various names according to the materials used. for example, Suiejakap or Kyungfunkap. 2) The military uniform (Goonbok) were composed by molip, Hyunchungsakpuja, Jundae, Soowhaja. 8. Military uniform (yoongbok) for civilian and militarian 1) The unifom was developped through Imjin war, Byungja war since the middle of Lee Dynasty. 2) The military uniform (Goonbok), (Yoongbok), armour were by the established dress reg-ulation of imperial ordinance dated April 8th, 1895 which falls 35th year of Kojong. the dress regulation was based upon the western uniform.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• 제34권6호
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• pp.459-470
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• 2018

Cellulose nitrates were used for folklore artifacts(ornamental beads and pipes in hatstrings, frames of eyeglasses, ornamental eyeglass cases, headband ornaments, and jeogori buttons) between the 19th and 20th centuries; however, they are susceptible to cracking, crazing, embrittlement, and crumbling due to deterioration. To consolidate and adhere deteriorated cellulose nitrate folklore artifacts, water-soluble acrylic emulsion adhesives were investigated. For consolidation, Plextol D 498, which has the lowest viscosity in low concentrations, was used. In adhesive films whose glass transition temperature(Tg) is lower than room temperature, the tensile stress and modulus decreased and the strain increased; therefore, the flexibility was high. The Plextol D 498 and Plextol D 498 and Dispersion K 52 films maintained their adhesiveness and flexibility after artificial-sunlight-accelerated ageing, and Plextol D 498 and Dispersion K 52 films hardly caused yellowing. Plextol D 498 was the most stable for accelerating ageing. A low concentration of Plextol D 498 emulsion resulted in the best permeability on the surface of cellulose nitrate, compared with other acrylic emulsions. To prevent ornamental hatstrings from cracking, crazing, embrittlement, and crumbling, a Plextol D 498 emulsion was used. After applying low concentrations(1%, 3%) of the emulsion to consolidate the fragments and high concentration to adhere the fragments, the ornamental hatstrings were protected from crumbling by deterioration, and their fragments were well-adhered. To preserve it from deterioration by oxygen and humidity, the treated ornament was sealed with an oxygen-barrier film using a low-humidity oxygen scavenger.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• 제15권
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• pp.177-194
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• 1990

Koh(袴) was a type of dress worn on the lower part of the body which was commonly used in the Northeast Asia. It was originally used by the Northern race for the need of nomadism or hunting. The origin of the Koh which appeared in the area would be found from the trousers of the Huns who influenced in the Northeast Asia, and became in the part of the Scythian culture. The Scythians are the nomadizing race inhabited in the Northern Caucasas on the wast of the Black Sea and influenced on the inland Eurasian steppe as the first typical horse-riding race. The objectives of Koh which had been worn in the Scythian, Mongolia, Korea as well as Japan as a part of Dongho dress and ornaments and to contemplate the transmission process by cultural exchange among different races for the period from 4th century to 7th century. 1. The Origination of the Koh The Koh was originated by the environmental factor to protect the cold in the North but also from the heat in the South, and was changed and developed as gradually satisfying to the needs of the times. In the Northeast Asia the Koh was in the class of the Northern Chinese garment, and was used widely by the horse riding Scythians who moved widely from the Eurasian inland to Japan. The oldest original which could reflect the type of the Northern clothes was a pair of trousers discovered in the Huns remains of Noin Ula. This showed the exact form of hunting clothes and had a similar form with the Korean female tro-users. Since the same form of trousers drawn on the wall painting of which was excavated 4-5th century ancient Koguryo(高句麗) tomb was the same form the trousers of Noin Ula seemed to be the original form of Koh in the Northeast Asia. 2. The Chinese Trousers It was the time of the King Mooryung(武靈王) in the Cho(趙) Dynasty B.C. 3th century that the trousers used regularly in China. However, the Koh had been used as undergarment which functioned for the protection of the cold not the horseriding garment. The trousers seemed to be not very obviously shown off since the Poh (袍) was long, but mainly used by the people from lower class. As people learned the adapted the trousers. It was essential for the times of war and quarrel. The king himself started wearing the Koh. The Chinese trousers were influenced by the Huns, the Northern clothes of the Scythian culture, and similar to the Korean clothes. 3. The Korean Trousers Korean was a race bared from the Eastern foreign group. It was obvious that the clothes was Baji-Jeogori(바지 저고리), the garment of the Northern people. This had the same form of the Scythian dress and ornaments which was excavated from the Mongolian Noin Ula. The Scythian dress and ornaments were influenced from the Ancient West Asia Empire and transmitted to the Northeast Koguryu by the horseriding Scythian. The trousers were kept in the traditional style by the common people in Korea were transmitted to Japan which were for behind in cultural aspect, as well as got used to the Chinese as the efficient clothes though active cultural exchange. 4. The Japanese Trousers The ancient Japanese clothes were influenced by the Southern factor but not the form of the Koh. As the Korean people group was moving towards Japan and conquer the Japanese in the 4-5th century, however, North Altaic culture was formed and at the same time the clothes were also developed. The most influenced clothes at this time were those of Baekge(百濟) and the trousers form called Euigon became the main form. Because of the climatic regional factor, it was tied not at the ankle but under the knee. From the view the ancient Japanese clothes disappeard about that time, it could be due to the conquest of the culturally superior race but not the transmission of the culture. In the latest 7th century both the Chinese and Japanese dress forms were present, but the Dongho(東胡) dress and its ornament from Korea was still the basic of the Japanese dress form.