• 제목/요약/키워드: Jeogori(jacket)

검색결과 36건 처리시간 0.019초

관중숭불도에 나타난 16세기 복식연구 (A Study of Costumes in the Palace Painting Depicting the Worship of Buddha during the Reign of King Myungjong)

  • 홍나영;김소현
    • 복식
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    • 제38권
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    • pp.305-321
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    • 1998
  • The costume style of the Chosun dynasty changed greatly after Imjinwaeran (the Japanese Invasion of Chosun Korea, 1592∼1598). Most of the extant costumes come from the late Chosun, but some costumes produced be-fore Imjinwaeran have been excavated, and in addition, information on these older constumes is contained in contemporary literature. Of especial value in the study of pre-Imjinwaeran Chosun constumes is a mid-sixteenth century palace painting depicting the worship of Buddha, a painting in the collection of the Ho-Am Art Museum in Seoul. The present study of costume during the middle Chosun dynasty focuses on this painting, and compares it with other contemporary palace paintings, and with other contemporary palace paintings, and with Nectar Ritual Paintings. The following conclusion were drawn : * Concerning woman's hair styles of the time, married women wore a large wig. Un-married women braided their hair, and then either let it fall down their back or wore it coiled on top of their head. * The major characteristic of woman's costumes was a ample, tube-like silhouette, with the ratio of the Jeogori(Korean woman's jacket) and skirt being one-to-one. * The style of Jeogori in the painting was like that of excavated remains. Some Jeogoris were simple (without decoration), while some Jeogoris were worn with red sashes. Here we can confirm the continuity of ancient Korean costumes with those of the sixteenth century * Although the skirt covered the ankles, it did not touch the ground. Because the breadth of the skirt was not wide, it seems to have been for ordinary use. Colors of skirts were mainly white or light blue. * All men in the painting wore a headdress. Ordinary men, not Buddhist monks, wore Bok-du (headstring), Chorip (straw hat), or Heuk-rip (black hat). In this painting, men wore a Heukrip which had a round Mojeong (crown). * The men wore sashes fastened around their waist to close their coats, which was different from the late Chosun, in which men bound their sashes around their chest. That gave a ration of the bodice of the coat to the length of the skirt of one-to-one, which was consistent with that of woman's clothing. * In this painting, we cannot see the Buddhist monk's headdress that appeared later in the Chosun, such as Gokkal (peaked hat), Songnak (nun's hat), and Gamtu (horsehair cap). These kinds of headdresses, which appeared in paintings from the seventeenth century, were worn widely inside or outside the home. Buddhist monks wore a light blue long coat, called Jangsam (Buddhist monk's robe) and wore Gasa (Buddhist monk's cope), a kind of ceremonial wrap, round their body. We can see that the Gasa was very splendid in the early years of the Chosun dynasty, a continuing tradition of Buddhist monk's costumes from the Koryo dynasty.

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SNS 인증샷에 나타난 한복의 조형적 특징 연구 - 여자한복을 중심으로 - (A Study on the Formative Characteristics of Hanbok in SNS Proof Shot - Focused on the Women's Hanbok -)

  • 최인숙;이미숙;김은정
    • 복식
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    • 제67권3호
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    • pp.15-30
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    • 2017
  • The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristics of Hanbok among youngsters based on SNS proof shots, identify new characteristics of Hanbok as part of play and travel rather than as formal Hanbok, and provide information for the Hanbok market. As research methodology, our search was carried out by using '#Hanbok Travel' as the search word in Instagram, where the Hanbok proof shot phenomenon is actively under way. A total of 535 posts from March 21, 2016 to April 1, 2016 were selected as objects of this study, excluding posts containing Hanbok with indiscernible shape, Korean traditional costume manufacturers' promotional posts, and repetitive posts by one person. First, the 535 posts were analyzed by season, region, number of people, and gender, and after men's data were excluded, 644 Hanboks were left for analysis. Their formative characteristics were analyzed by using SPSS 21.0. The results showed that the formative characteristics of Hanbok shown in SNS proof shots included diversification of length in jeogori(Korean traditional jacket), skirt, and sleeve, use of pragmatic material and achromatic color, and reduced use of decorative technique. Hanboks shown in the Hanbok proof shots should be considered as significant data because each shots show clothes selected and worn directly by user's side, unlike the existing studies centering on Hanbok designers' works.

경주 남산 석불의 법의양식 (The Robe Styles of the Stone Statue of Buddha in Jyung-Ju)

  • 진현선
    • 대한가정학회지
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    • 제33권5호
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    • pp.211-219
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    • 1995
  • In this study of the Buddhist Stone Statues in Namsan in Kyungju. We have found out interesting facts as follow. This study is focused on the way the Buddhist Statues wear the robes. There are two basical types of wearing ; Tongkyun and Pyundanwookyun. In Silla, these types of wearing has been developed into its unique types based on the traditional culture. The stone Buddhist images show seven types of wearing based on the standard ones of Tongkyun and Pyundanwookyun. This variety in wearing rests on the various of Sungkari(Samghathi) and Bokgyenui(Samkaksika) and a chest sash which fixes Niwonsung(Nivasana). There are three cases inferred from the seven types of wearing the Buddha's robes : (1)Tonkyun type A: The only outer wear Sungkari(Samghathi) was put on as Tongkyun type. We can't find out any Bokgyenui(Samkaksika) or the chest sash of Niwonsung(Nivasana). (2)Tongkyun type B: Bokgyenui(Samkaksika) is put on the chest of Statue in Sungkari(Samghathi). (3)Tongkyun type C: This type is similar to Tonkyun type A, except that the end of the robe dangled down straight to the right side. (4)Tongkyun type D: Bokgyenui(Samkaksika) is bound with a chest sash. (5)Tongkyun type C: The robe is tied on the left shoulder as a cord and Bokgyenui(Samkaksika) is bound with a chest sash. (6)Pyundanwookyun type A: The robe dangled down from the left shoulder to the right armpit diagonally, so left shoulder is naked. (7)Pyundanwookyun type B: This type is similiar to Pyundanwookyun type A, but the end of Sungkari(Samghathi) is bound up to the left shoulder again. Considering above, the robe types of Buddha seem to have something to do with those of the Silla people: The chest sash is similar to the adjustment of Jeogori(the traditional jacket) of the Silla, and the typing cord in Buddha's robe corresponds to that of the traditional types.

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현대의 전통한복에 사용된 장식기법의 유형과 특성 [제II보] - 2006~2009년 화보에 나타난 여자한복을 중심으로 - (The Types and Characteristics of Decoration Techniques Applied to Traditional HanBok [Part II] - Focusing on Traditional HanBok for Women that were Delivered between 2006 and 2009 -)

  • 이영애;김순구
    • 한국의류산업학회지
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    • 제12권6호
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    • pp.705-714
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    • 2010
  • This study has the purpose of classifying the types of decoration techniques applied to the Korean traditional costume of modern style which are shown in relevant monthly magazines and analyzing the characteristics of the techniques. Findings of the study can be summarized as follows. The types of decoration techniques applied to the Korean traditional costume are classified into single and composite types according to decorative components. In the traditional costume of the former type, a quite many of gold and silver foils and embroideries are found. While, in that of the latter type, a combination of two different decorations, gold and silver foils and embroideries, embroideries and seonchigi or embroideries and stitches is usually used. These decoration techniques are usually applied to some parts of the costume like git, kkeutdong or cuffs, somae or sleeves, jacket or jeogori, the lower hem of the skirt and between joined parts in the skirt. More notably, Korean traditional costumes for women shown in monthly magazines released during the period as mentioned above were investigated to find that a part of the women's clothes, that is, skirt was in most cases decorated with brilliant embroideries. Used together with the techniques, patterns are usually applied onto embroideries and gold or silver foils. Most of the patterns are flower in shape. The main material of the Korean traditional costume is fabrics that have brilliant patterns on the surface and are commercially available irrespective of season. Consequently, since 2010, flower motive patterns which are important in modern fashion trend will be used in embroideries, gold and silver foils. Additionally, embroideries such as seakdong, applique, drawing made with modern style will be the main stream of new HanBok style.

조선시대 출토직물에 나타난 화문직의 특성에 관한 연구 (A Study on Flower Patterned Fabrics of Exhumed Clothing in Chosun Dynasty)

  • 박문영;김호정
    • 한국의류산업학회지
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    • 제10권1호
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    • pp.22-29
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    • 2008
  • In this study, it is investigated the types and the compounding method of flower patterns and the uses of flower patterned fabrics in Chosun Dynasty. Research was done through the references of exhumed clothing during 16-17th century. Our ancestors had used the various flower patterns based on Buddhism, Taoism and Confucianism onto the fabrics. The flower patterns on the fabrics were expressed with the other patterns such as treasure patterns, letter patterns or bird patterns. And the flower patterns symbolized the various good meanings such as longevity, integrity and prosperity etc. In the order of the percentage, the types of the flower patterns were shown Lotus(27.31%), Arabesque(26.85%), Japanese apricot(14.81%), Peony(8.79%), Flowering plants(6.94%), Chrysanthemum(6.01%), Pomegranate(2.31%) patterns and so on. Especially the Lotus pattern was shown up most frequently. That of shape was designed as blooming(開花), full bloom(滿開) and the side of flower(側面). By the compounding method, the compound types mixed with the other patterns were used much more than the individual types composed by its own pattern. The flower patterns were used a lot in Jeogori(Jacket) regardless of the ganders and in men's Po(coat) including Cheollik(天翼), Dappo(胡), Jeonbok(戰服), Dahnryoung(團領), etc. Also contrary to these days, the flower patterned fabrics had come out in the shrouds. Judging from these facts, our ancestors wished that the meaning of the immortal life was included in the flower pattern.

백제복식연구 -일본고대사에 미친 백제문화의 영향- (A Study on the Costume of Baikje Period -With Emphasis on the Influence of Korean Culture in the Ancient Japan-)

  • 조규화
    • 한국의류학회지
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    • 제4권1_2호
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    • pp.49-56
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    • 1980
  • Because of the scarcity of data, a study of costume during the Baikje period can be made imaginarily only with historical records as data. According to records, Baikje costume was almost the same as that of the Koguryo period. Consequently, we may well imagine Baikje costume by means of studying such materials as the mural paintings found in Koguryo tombs and the remains found in the royal tomb of Munyung. The basic form of costume of the Baikje period, therefore, might have been like this: Both male and female wore a kind of jacket(유: JEOGORI) and trousers(고: BAJI) with female-wearing skirt (상: CHIMA) thereon. Both men and women wore overcoat(포: DURUMAGI). They used to wear headdress(관모) and used leather shoes(화) Such a form of costume can be found in the costume of HANIWA(식륜) of Japan, which belonged to the costume of HOBOK (호복) of the northern area. Under the SHIMNEUK-PUM-KWAN-KE(십육품관계) system, that is, 16 grades of official ranks, officials of the Baikje dynasty wore clothes, coronets and belts, all of which differed from one another in colors, according to ranks. Such a system of Baikje might have influenced the KANI-JUNI-KAI (the 12-grade color discrimination of the coronet, 관위십이계) for the government officials of ancient Japan the Suiko period. For the study of such matters, I have tried to review the flow of the Korean culture into ancient Japan in the field of costume.

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