• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제22권4호
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• pp.306-313
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• 2010

To achieve color diversification of natural dyeing, color mixture dyeing with Indigo and Japanese pagoda tree is applied to wool and silk fabrics. After dyeing with Japanese pagoda tree extract solution of 5~25%(o.w.f.), the indigo dyeing was carried out up to four times. Alternatively after repeat dyeing with indigo one to seven times, the dyeing with Japanese pagoda tree extract solution was applied in 5 steps(5~25%). In color mixture dyeing, the dye uptake of wool fabrics appears higher than that of silk. The sequence of Japanese pagoda tree extract dyeing after Indigo dyeing was generally higher dye uptake compared with that of Indigo dyeing after Japanese pagoda tree extract dyeing. For wool and silk fabric, the pre-dyeing with Japanese pagoda tree solution was more effective for color diversification but the pre-dyeing with Indigo was more effective for the exhibition of intermediate color shade.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제11권3호
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• pp.423-430
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• 2003

Cotton fabric md nylon fabric were chosen as base fabric specimens for dyeing using Japanese pagoda tree colorants through chitosan, treatment. With the chitosan treatment, the dye-uptake of the treated fabric increased. This treatment is also expected to be effective in terms of environment-friendliness. The effect of the dyeing methods, mordanting or non-mordanting, and chitosan treatment on the dye-uptake and air permeability of the treated fabrics was investigated. In case of cotton fabric, Al mordanted dyeing resulted in higher dye-uptake through the chitosan treatment. Therefore, the chitosan treatment is effective in this case. Japanese pagoda tree seems to have direct affinity for nylon fabric without the mordanting treatment. In case of cotton fabric, it seems that the cellulose molecules, colorants, and the chitosan make a complex, thereby reducing the air permeability. In case of nylon fabric, due to the fact the Japanese pagoda tree colorant molecules form direct physical bonding with the nylon molecules, it seems that there is not much of air permeability reduction.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제21권2호
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• pp.29-39
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• 2009

The color mixture, obtained from Indigo and Japanese pagoda tree, was applied to cellulose fibers such as cotton, linen and rayon to diversify color gamut of natural dyes. The color mixture was tried with two different methods. The first process was that cellulose fibers were dyed with $5{\sim}25%$ owf Japanese pagoda tree solution, and then dyed 1 to 4 times with Indigo. The second process was dyeing 1 to 7 times with Indigo, followed by dyeing with $5{\sim}25%$ owf Japanese pagoda tree solution. K/S value of the dyed fibers with one colorant and color mixture increased in the order of linen, cotton, rayon. It was also found that the first process could give higher K/S values than the second process.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권6호
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• pp.868-876
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• 2005

Silk fabrics were dyed with yellow natural materials. Gardenia, turmeric, amur cork tree, safflower, Japanese pagoda tree, and onion were used as natural materials. Color image of natural dyed silk fabrics was classified by 4 factors(Cheerfulness, Comfortness, Pastrol, Revealation). Cheerfulness factor affected significantly with color image. Amur cork tree or turmeric dyed fabrics were shown as light and cute, safflower or gardenia dyed fabric shown as comfort, and onion dyed fabrics shown as mature and simple. Color image with specialty was significant difference in Preference and Revelation factor. Preference was appeared as amur cork tree>turmeric>gardenia>safflower>Japanese pagoda tree>onion.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제10권2호
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• pp.27-39
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• 2006

In this study, physical/chemical characteristics of the fabrics dyed using Japanese pagoda tree which is a yellowish dyestuff was investigated. We tried to estimate the dyeing mechanism among fiber macromolecules, mordants, chitosan, and dyestuffs by measuring the change of air-permeability according to the dyeing process. Also wash fastness and light fastness were measured in order to estimate the fastness according to the dyeing characteristics. When the chitosan pre-treatment was introduced, the wash fastness increased significantly in the cotton fabrics while the fastness did not change in the nylon fabrics significantly. The light fastness was not improved by the chitosan treatment. when the antibacterial activity was measured for the dyed cotton fabrics, Japanese pagoda tree itself did not exhibit antibacterial activity. However, chitosan treated dyed fabrics exhibited low antimicrobial activity.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제10권4호
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• pp.433-440
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• 2002

Natural gardenia and Japanese pagoda tree have been known as them of the most widely used yellow vegetable dyes. Cotton and silk fabrics(KS K 0905) were chosen as specimens. Those were dyed with natural gardenia and Japanese pagoda tree. The conditions of dyeing were varied according to the kinds of mordants, using mordants or not and the concentrations of the natural dyes. Sn, Al, Fe and Cu were chosen for the mordants. 5%(owf), 10%(owf), 15%(owf) and 20%(owf) were used as for the concentration of the natural dyes. The color differences were measured by the Spectrometer(UV-VIS-NIR) before and after dyeing. The results are as follows: 1. Deeper colors were proportionately shown up to the concentration of the natural dye. 2. Silk was shown the higher dye affinity than the cotton at the same concentration of the dye. 3. The color difference between the Sn-mordanted specimens and the Al-mordanted specimens were significant. When the concentration of the dye increased, the colors got darker, specially in b* value. 4. The color difference between the Fe-mordanted specimens and the Cu-mordanted specimens were significant in L* value and b* value. 5. The deeper or lighter yellow were controllable under the concentration of the natural dye and the mordants. 6. The most effective and the economic concentration of the natural dye was 10% owf through the experiments.

• 감성과학
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.143-154
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• 2018

본 연구는 친환경적이고 감성적인 패션상품의 색채기획을 위한 자료를 제공하고자 수행되었다. 쪽과 괴화로 복합염색 후 무매염 견직물과 4종의 매염제(Al, Cu, Fe, Zn)를 처리한 견직물에 대하여 색채특성을 측정하였다. 또한 복합염색 후 매염처리된 연두색 견직물에 대하여 여대생을 대상으로 색채감성과 색채 선호도를 조사하였으며, 색채특성과 색채감성이 색채 선호도에 미치는 영향을 분석하였다. 쪽/괴화로 복합염색된(무매염) 견직물은 선 염색한 쪽 농도가 $10g/{\ell}$이면 녹색, 쪽 $20g/{\ell}$을 사용하면 청록색을 나타내었으며, 4종의 매염제를 사용하여 처리시 거의 모든 경우 연두색을 나타내었다. 연두색을 나타내는 복합염색된 견직물 10종의 색채감성을 요인분석한 결과, 유쾌성, 품위성, 편안성 요인으로 분류되었으며, 이러한 색채감성은 쪽 농도와 매염제의 종류에 따라 대부분 유의한 차이를 보였다. 또한 복합염색된 연두색 견직물의 색채특성과 색채감성요인 간에는 대부분 유의한 상관성을 보여, $L^*$값, $b^*$값, $C^*$값이 크고 $a^*$값이 작을수록 유쾌성과 편안성 감성을 더 강하게 느끼며, $L^*$값이 작고 $a^*$값이 클수록 품위성 감성을 더욱 느끼는 것으로 나타났다. 따라서 쪽과 괴화로 복합염색하고 매염처리한 연두색 견직물의 색채감성요인을 예측변수로 활용할 수 있는 색채 선호도 예측 회귀식이 제안되었다.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제10권2호
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• pp.18-26
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• 2006

In this study, the effects of chitosan pre-treatment on the mordanting effect and dyeability were investigated in the dyeing using Japanese pagoda tree. The chitosan treatment effects were evaluated mainly focused on the colors after dyeing of cotton and nylon fabrics which were treated with acidic aqueous solution of chitosan. In the case of chitosan untreated fabrics, the mordanting effects on the cotton and nylon were insignificant and the dyeability was very low. Regardless of the mordant types(Al, Sn, and Fe), the dyed fabrics exhibited almost identical yellowish colors. In the case of chitosan treated fabrics, dark colors were obtained compared to the case of chitosan untreated and ${\Delta}E$ values were increased significantly. In cotton fabrics, the most excellent result was obtained under the condition of unmordanted and chitosan treated fabrics. This verifies the fact that routin coloring matters establish direct linkages with the chitosan components, which exhibit cationic nature, easily. In nylon fabrics, the effects of mordanting treatment and chitosan treatment are so insignificant that the routin coloring matters are presumed to establish direct dyeing with the nylon molecular chains.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제38권2호
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• pp.201-215
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• 2014

This study explores the kinds and types of dyes used in the Joseon Dynasty. Some literature including "Sanga Yorok", "Gyuhap Chongseo", "Imwon Gyeonjeji" were reviewed for this purpose. The findings are as follows. The colors obtained from the dyes were divided into seven color series, such as red, yellow and orange, green, blue, purple, brown, gray and black. These are practical color categories differed from abstract five cardinal colors [五方色]. The diachronic dyes used during the Joseon Dynasty were safflower and Japanese alder bark for red, indigo leaves for blue, gromwell for purple, chestnut tree bark for brown. The representative dyes used in the late Joseon Dynasty were safflower and sappan wood for red, wild pear tree bark and Pentapetes phoenicea for yellow and orange, indigo leaves for blue, sappan wood and gromwell for purple, mulberry tree for brown, and Chinese ink for gray. Common dyes used both in Joseon and China were safflower and sappan wood for red, pagoda tree blossom for yellow, a combination of pagoda tree blossom (or Amur cork tree) and indigo leaves (or sediment) for green, indigo leavers or sediment for blue, sappan wood and hollyhock for purple, and a combination of indigo leaves and Galla Rhois for gray and black.

• 한국염색가공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국염색가공학회 2010년도 제3회 국제학회
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• pp.35-36
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• 2010