• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.13-27
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• 2002

Applying H. Gans' taste culture theory to the comtemporary fashion phenomena this study had an object to classify the fashion phenomena in Korea and Japan from 1995 to 1999, and look into and compare them. First of all, the characters of each fashion group of the two countries show that the details of the Korean traditional costume are grafted into the most popular style in each season in Korean high fashion and oriental look used the formative method far Japanese traditional costume and Tokyo street style are reflected in the Japanese high fashion. Mass fashion in Korea equally comes under the influence of European high fashion, Korean street fashion, and Japanese mass fashion, And mass fashion in Japan reflects European high fashion and japanese street fashion. The Street fashion in Korea was affected by Korean entertainers'fashion, 'Tongdaemun market fashion' in Seoul, and Japanese street fashion. And street fashion in Japan is also affected by the pursuit of powerful personality, the absolute imitation if Japanese entertainers' fashion, and 'Tongdaemun market fashion'. All of two countries exercise considerable influence over mass fashion each other.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.1 s.110
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• pp.17-27
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• 2007

The goal of the study was to research how the japanese fashion effects on the japanese fashion's current. This study was processed by the 'wabi', 'sabi', 'tsu', and 'iki' which were the foundation and core of the japanese traditional culture. This study also investigated the japanese style to help the recognizing of traditional design which needed for internationalization and informational periods. The review of related literature is presented under the following headings : (a) japanese culture, (b) japanese beauty, (c) japanese style, (d) japanese fashion designer. Conclusively, Japan complete unique design of world by on the basis of own tradition and beauty of japan which were revealed on the their common daily life. So To help there cognizing of traditional design which needed for internationalization and informational periods, fashion designer of the world must research the meaning of the trend and motive power of the world fashion, base on the cultural back ground of their country. And for this, the grounding educational curriculums for fashion designer include the process which can promote awareness of their country's culture, tradition, and beauty.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.5
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• pp.511-519
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• 2003

The traditional culture has been developed for a long time with an unique property according to folk character, custom and environment within an area. Especially in 1906, when the westerners were interested in oriental cultures more and more, Paul Poiret presented Japanese traditional dress of napping sleeve coats and harem pants, henceforth japanese fashion theme began to rise. The Japanese style rose as an important fashion item of the modern fashion, with various fashion themes such as orientalism, ethnic, folklore, ecology, etc., needless to say of activities of Japanese designers. The revealed patterns on Japanese dress and it's ornament plays a role of expressive decoration as well as stand for the nation, the ideology of the age and aesthetic consciousness. For this reason, it is necessary to study Japanese traditional patterns expressed in modern fashion systematically. Therefore, in this research, the demonstrated Japanese traditional patterns on the modern fashion were divided into natural, artificial and complex design and were looked out the characteristic, furthermore it was studied in regard that Japanese patterns were how to apply in modern fashion. It was concluded that the characteristics of the Japanese traditional patterns presented in the modern fashion were as follows: first, creation of environmental friendly design using plenty of natural materials; second, expression of paint-like impression and beauty of margins by simplifying of patterns; third, expression of amusing design by using bright colors and print; finally, various patterns were spreaded out complicated on dress. The characteristics of Japanese traditional patterns in the above were expressed in the modern fashion.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.30-39
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• 2008

This research investigated the change of Japanese Street Fashion after the Second World War. The change were categorized into 5 terms from the late 1940s to 2000s. The first term was from the late 1940s to 1950s, when street fashion was born. The second term was from the 1960s to 1970s and counter culture of street fashion appeared. The third term was the 1980s, during which street fashion fluctuated. The forth term was the 1990s, a period of chaos in street fashion. The fifth term was after 2000 and it was a retroaction term of street fashion. Japanese street fashion was influenced by fashion magazines in those days. Various street fashions in Japan based on special society and cultural situation accomplished Japanese basic fashion quality and influenced world fashion.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.102-115
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to analyze the various types of styles and characteristics of Japanese street fashion since the 1990's. The primary source of data has been a collection of visual materials which include snapshots of young men and women in the Japanese street scene starting in the 1990's. To approach the Japanese street fashion comprehensively, I have divided the background of the Japanese fashion into three parts: 1. The birth of various fashion markets like the Dankai junior generation, Hetauma generation and Shinjinrui junior generation. 2. The pursuit of fashion senses like the well-balanced sense of independence and commensalism, uncommon sense and sense of a tassel. 3. A boom in new fashion business types like SPA and select shop. After the 1990's, the Japanese street fashion has changed through the popularity of styles which include the conservative casual style, sexy casual style, Harajuku pop style, and 3 Re(revival, remake, recycle) fashion style. The characteristics of the Japanese street fashion reflects the performance of virtual reality, the sign of style culture, and the communication of process.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.25
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• pp.21-39
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• 1995

By 1980, there are two main flows in the world fashion. One is the traditional Paris fashion by Houte Couture, and the other is the American casual fashion by mass production. However, the appearance of Japanese designers and their new styles on the stage of Paris fashion have had a strong influence on the change of the world fashion since 1980s. So, the purposes of this study were first to research the process, the background and the power which let the Japanese stand and suc-ceed in the stage of Paris fashion, second to research on the Fashion World and Fashion Trend from the beginning of 1980s to present (1994). The results were as follow ; Hanae Mori and Kenzo were the pioneers who let the West know the existence and the level of Japanese fashion. Issey Miyake was the new innovator in the 20th century Fashion. and became the foundation of the New Wave Fashion in 1980s. Rei kawakubo completed the philosophy of beauty by the imperfection and has led the Postmodernism in the Fashion. The constant efforts of the these Japanese designers have inspired the orientalism and Art-to Wear, showed up the new construction and material in clothing by layering and drap-ing and stimulated the traditional Paris fashion to become popular, casual and diverse. The success of Japanese designers and the boom of Japanese fashion were not only the effort of individuality but also the power of economics, the spirit of cooperation and the affection to the culture and tradition on the background. The New Wave fashion by Japanese designers in the beginning of 1980s have promoted the appearance of Avant-garde fashion in London, the new fashion spirit in Milano, and the various fashion styles of different sections in the West and East. Finally, it becomes popular in 1990s and leads the fashion spirit in the end of 20th century.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.83-101
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to observe the elements of Japanese popular culture portrayed in Korean new generation fashion at the current point of time, when Japanese popular culture is first being opened to Korea. And the another purpose is to look into the fashion consciousness of them, which is made up of these aspects. The new generation plays the leading role in further excelling the culture of our society. They are the generation of sense and sensibility, the generation of "me", the generation of information, and the generation of individuality. Even before Japanese popular culture was officially opened, the new generation was already accepting fashion, comics and animation, video games, music, broadcasting, food, etc. The Japanese cultural elements that show most in Korean fashion are street fashion and the fashion of celebrities. These are mostly brought in by fashion magazines, the internet, satellite TV, the new media of cable TV, and street shops. The aspects of Japanese popular culture in Korean new generation fashion are many and varied. Such examples in fashion are : vintage style, school-girl style, sexy causal style, black coordination, soft avant-garde style. It can be said that the fashion consciousness of Korean new generation could be placed in the following order. First, the variety of fashion. Next, the internationalism of fashion. Third, the information of fashion, and last, the play value of fashion. Interest has peaked in Japanese culture after the official opening, and this study has explored the very same aspects which can be seen in Korean new generation fashion. This study was meant to help make a responsible and sturdy new generation fashion culture which can help face the new millennium.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.970-980
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• 2011

As a type of intimate architecture, fashion has always mediated the dialogue between clothes and the body, or fashion and figure. This study seeks to inquire the current aesthetic consciousness of the body and dress in Japanese avant-garde fashion and intends to research the features and meanings in the pastiche of Western sartorial convention in Japanese avant-garde fashion in order to examine the changing aesthetic attitude in postmodern fashion. The study investigates subjects of the fashion collections of the turn of the twenty-first century, when pastiche strategies frequently appeared in Japanese avant-garde fashion, through the methodology of literature research and case analysis. The results of the study are as follows: by developing the strategy of pastiche, Japanese avant-garde fashion exposes the defectiveness of the Western idea of the idealized and standardized body for mass productions, thus freeing design from its traditional confinement to the human body. Drawing on the re-conceptualization of the sartorial convention of Western tradition, Japanese avant-garde fashion designers tend to experiment with extreme exaggeration in form, refusing to subscribe to the traditional Western values built on the balance and symmetry of the body. Through the combination of the past and the present as well as the inner-wear as outerwear strategy, the historical pastiche challenges convention and symbolism, which results in the discord between signifiant and signifi$\acute{e}$ of clothing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.2
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• pp.39-52
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• 2004

The purpose of this comparative study what is the way to express difference fashion design between Japanese fashion designers and Western fashion designers in the 1990s. The design data were 422 pictures of contemporary fashion designs which represented the Japanism style design from fashion collections and analyzed by literature study and classification categories. The results were as follows : 1) Early general Japanism expression was directly borrowed from traditional fashion design elements and has changed indirectly with fashion trend. 2) Japanese fashion designers have used color, fabric, and pattern than shape to express Japanese traditional images. 3) Western fashion designers have directly borrowed aesthetic elements of Kimono design, that is, layering. bending, neck-line, sleeve, and traditional Japanese men's wear to express Japanism.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.232-246
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to investigate aesthetic characteristics and aesthetic consciousness of the style that European fashion(Paris, London, Netherlands) has accepted the since $19^{th}$ century. The mode Japonisme's development process in around $20^{th}$ century and 21st century has 6 characteristics as follows; 1. Accepting kimono as dressing gown 2. Accepting kimono as Japanese style's objet of Japanese taste 3. Accepting Japanese textile's skills, patterns, and asymmetry. 4. Accepting kimono's formative nature : flat pattern, flexibility, style etc. 5. Shocking of Japanese style's beauty 6. Accepting characters and casual wear Japanese aesthetic consciousness expressed on unconstructed design or deconstructed design that is the aesthetic characteristic of Japanese fashion is , , and the aesthetic consciousness expressed on Zen(Seon) style, cartoons of character fashion, and costume play is .