• 복식
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• 제56권8호
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• pp.74-82
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• 2006

In ancient China, Su(綬) was the ornament of the full dress. It had originated from tying the jade or another thing before Jen(秦:Qin) dynasty and it tied the imperial jade seal and the chop from Han dynasty. Su of Han dynasty was different in the inscape, colour, length and density according to the grade. And the shape was the straight line. But these phenomena were changed after Han dynasty. This study showed how it changed. To studying used the comparison method of literature records, paintings and archeological relics. It mostly studied imperial Su. Su of Han dynasty of the high grade was formed by Yeok, the circle type jade and Su(Su moaned whole Su, at the same time moaned the part of Su, too). Afterward, Yeok was changed into Small Su[小綬] and Su was changed into Big Su(大綬). Originally the circle type jade was connecting Yeok to Su, but it was changed into tying Small Su only. Su of Han dynasty used the four kinds of colour, but from Su(隋: Sui) dynasty used the six kinds of colour. Originally Su was interlacing, but it was changed into the silk fabric from Song[宋] dynasty. According to using silk fabric's Su, it was likely to disappear the system distinguishing the grade by length. And it kept the method of interlacing the reticulation in the low part of silk fabric's Su. So, after using silk fabric's Su, the system of the density was not about the main body but about the reticulation. Su was been used woven with supplementary golden wefts, too. The circle type jade was chiseled the dragon and cloud from Geum[金:Jin] dynasty. These not the pattern of silk fabrics.

• 복식
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• 제58권3호
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• pp.19-33
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• 2008

Hair style of royal ladies in the 19th century according to the wedding record of King Heon-jong and Lady Sunhwagung is studied in this paper and summarized as follows: First, Saengmeori was a bridal hair style for the wedding night in Gyeonmagi(jacket) and Daeranchima(Skirt with gold trimming). It was a typical girls' hair style before the coming-of-age ceremony. It was composed of Saengmeoridari(wig), Seockunghwang, Jogduri(Coronet decorated with Jewellery), Saengdaeng-gi(hair ribbon) trimmed pearls, and jade disk trimmed pearls. Second, Garaemeori(double bun hair style) was the hair style with Wonsam when the chosen bride went to Byeol-Gung, a special palace for the bridal. It was composed of Gareachi(wig) and Cheopji(small wig) with the frontal hair ornament, jogduri, and Saidang-gi(hair ribbon). Third, Jojimmeori(single bun hair style) is a basic hair style for the madame. It was composed of jojimmeorichilbo, jogduri, jojimmeoridari(wig), and Cheopji with a frontal hair ornament. Fourth, Keunmeori is the second most important hair style for the court ceremony. It was composed of Eoyeomjogduri, Eoyeomdari(wig), Cheopji with a frontal hair ornament, Keunmeoridari(wig), and Keunmeorichilbo. Fifth, Susik, the most important hair style for the court ceremony, is the hair style for ceremonies including the day of becoming the formal queen, the first greeting day to the King's family. It was composed of 4 kinds of wigs and Susik-chilbo.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제2권1호
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• pp.43-62
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• 1989

The luxury is the expression of human being's ornament instinct. In this study, in order to grasp the moulding system of the Korean's personal ornaments, the process of luxury prohibition was reviewed to search for to which direction the ornaments developed in the frame of the prohibited style connected closely to the character of the personal ornaments. The proiod was fixed from the old society to the late Chosun dynasty era. The beginning of the luxury in Korea seems to be the start of the luxury burial at the time of funeral in the age of Koguryo., In the era of Koguryo, 10th year of King Dongmyung (B. C. 28), in the era of Baekje, 27th year of King Koi(260), the prohibition of dress regulation and the style of dress were conducted. The prohibition of personal ornaments in Silla was started from King Bup:Heung, and in the 9th year of King Heung-Duk, the prohibition was conducted in order to correct the luxury of the nobles and set up the social discipline. In the 11 th of King Il-Sung-Ni-Sa-Kum, the use of gold, silver and jade was prohibited in the civilian circles. The prohibition of Silla was succeeded to Koryo era, and in the 7th year of King Kwangjong(956), the system of Baekgwan Gongbok(uniform for government officials) was set up, and the system of Sasek Gongbok(four color official uniform) was set up in the 11 th year of the same King, and the prohibition of the personal ornaments such as crown and band is considred to have been conducted. The prohibition of gold and silver was conducted in the first year of King Sungjong(982), and in the 4th year of King Chungryul(l260), the order of wearing the dress and hat in accordance with the Yusan dynasty and the Mongolian customs were widely circulated in the royal court and vivilian circles. The strong influence of Mongolia made the taste of the traditional personal ornaments laste. The personal ornaments were used for the nobles until the age of the Unified Sillar but even the common people could use them in case they were rich, and such a circumstances made the use of foreign goods inflated. The prohibition of Koryo era was aimed at the prohibition of the foreign goods of luxury, and the classification of the social status.In the age of Chosun Dynasty, the production of gold and silver was feeble indeed but the oute reason of the prohibition was to eradicate the luxurious tendency, elevate the custom of eradicate the luxurious tendency, elevate the custom of thrift, and moreover, the gold, silver and jade were no the products of Korea and the prohibition was conducted but the true reason was afor the tribute tt China and the classification of status. The prohibition of Chosun dynasty was conducted first in the June of the 3rd year of King Taejo The major contents of prohibition was no use of gold, silver and jade, coral, agate, amber, etc. of th, wives of the Dang-Sang-Kwan (Court Nobleman) or their sons and daughters, and the same pheno menon was common even at the time of marriage. The people engaged in the secret trade there of wert beheaded. The personal ornaments in the prohibition were the pendent trinket, Binyo (crossbar) ceremonial ornamental hat, ring, earring, ornamental knife, hat string, hat ornament, belt, etc. Thl luxurious marriage expenses out of the luxury was severe, and lose of the marriageable age because 0 non-preparing the marriage goods was the national evil. The prohibition oC luxury was hard to bt kept to the nobles or rich people, the same as old days and present days. The prohibition of th{ luxury and personal ornaments of Korea had nothing to do with the commons, and it was limited tc the nobles and rich people. The prohibition was aimed to cultivating the custom of frugality by eradicating the luxurious atmosphere, but it was chiefly due to the tribute to the China and tht discrimination of the. status. We can say that the recent personal ornament was the flower of handi craft industry bloomed in the prohibition and regulation.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제44권3호
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• pp.62-77
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• 2011

아산 현충사에 전시중인 보물 제326호 이충무공유물은 장검 2점, 옥로 1점, 요대 1점, 도배 구대 2점으로 구성되어 있다. 이 유물은 장시간의 전시로 표면에 먼지가 많이 고착되었으며 금속이 부식되어 과거의 빛깔을 잃어버리고 있었다. 2011년 4월 28일 "충무공이순신기념관"을 개관하기 위한 준비 과정에서 유물의 상태점검 결과 보존처리가 필요하다고 판단하여 2011년 3월부터 4월까지 2개월에 걸쳐 보존처리를 실시하였다. 보존처리에 앞서 유물에 대한 분석을 실시한 결과 칼자루 붉은 색 안료 및 흑칠, 칼 도신 붉은 색 안료 등은 근래에 수리를 한 것을 확인하였다. 제작 당시의 것으로 추정되는 붉은 색 안료는 석간주(Hematite)이나 후대에 칠한 안료는 주사와 연단이 혼합된 안료이다. 칼 도신의 붉은 색 안료는 황연(Chrome Yellow, $PbCrO_4$)이다. 또한 비파괴 분석을 통해 칼 장식의 재질, 요대의 도금방법, 도배 구대의 재질 등을 확인하였다. 보존처리는 훼손 우려가 있는 부분에 대한 보존처리를 통해 안정한 상태로 전시될 수 있도록 하였다.

• 박물관보존과학
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• 제26권
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• pp.83-182
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• 2021

본고는 경상북도 경주시 노서동 129호분(서봉총)에서 출토된 금관(보물 339호)의 보존처리와 제작기법 조사결과를 정리한 것이다. 서봉총 금관은 일제강점기인 1926년 조선총독부박물관에서 진행한 발굴조사를 통해 출토되었으며, 현재 국립중앙박물관 소장품이다. 국내에 현존하는 신라 금관은 총 6점으로, 그 중 서봉총 금관은 신라 금관의 전형을 보이면서도 새장식이 달린 돔형의 반구형장식이 존재하는 유일한 사례이다. 출토이후 금속재료와 접착제 등으로 수리되었으나, 형상이 일부 변형되고 수리재료로 인한 금관의 손상이 야기되어 보존처리를 진행하였다. 이 글에서는 서봉총 금관의 보존처리 및 원형복원의 전 과정과 특히 유물의 안정성을 위해 중점을 둔 접합부 보강 방법을 상세히 서술하고, 보존처리 중 조사를 통해 확인된 제작과정의 특징을 소개하고자 한다. 또한 서봉총과 유사형태의 신라관의 제작기법을 비교하여 서봉총 금관과 다른 신라관의 관계성을 검토하고자 하였다. 서봉총 금관의 제작당시 기본 장식은 금제 영락이었으며, 이후 세움장식의 영락 일부를 곡옥으로 교체하고 관테에는 곡옥을 새로 연결하여 장식을 수정한 정황을 새롭게 확인하였다. 이러한 현상이 다른 금관에도 적용되었는지 알아보고자 국내 신라 금관 6점의 장식기법을 모두 비교한 결과 천마총 출토 금관에서 동일한 방식의 수정 흔적과 여러 유사성을 확인하였다.

• 복식
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• 제18권
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• pp.373-381
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• 1992

Woman in Choson era had various kind of accdssories like rings, ear ring, ornamentak hairpins and so on. Among them their favorite was the Norigae, the pendent trinket. With the embroidered ornament at its center, beads and knots were attached to the upper and lower part, and it was hung with a tassel. It was carried on the string of the Chogori. norigae oreginated in waist string of Three Countries era(Sills, Paekje and Koguryo) ; had been changed with the development of fashion, embroidery and the influence of Buddhistic culture. The differences between Embroidered Norigae and Norigae are following. If the ornament at its center is made of such jewels as gold, silver, jade and the like, it is called Norigae. But if the ornament at its center is made of the embroidered Norigae. Such a Embroidered Norigae in which perfume was contained, was as a perfume box or a perfume bag and was carried on the strings of Chogori by Danjak(single work). The Differences between ancient Embroidered Norigae of late Choson era and modern Embroidered Norigae are Following; 1) The type of main body-the embroidered ornament at its center was mainly embroidered with the shape of animals in both of ancient Embroidered Norigae was usually formes like a bat and that of modern Embroidered Norigae like butterfly. 2) plants were adapted as the main design of ancient Embroidered Norigae, but plants and animals as that of modern Embroidered Norigae. 3) The colors of the background and the design are usually red in both ancient and modern Embroidered norigae. 4) The tassels of ancient Embroidered Norigae were mode in the shape of srick and a strawberry. but the tassels of modern Embroidered Norigae were mainly made in the shape of a stick. 5) Nowadays the beauty of external form is considered more important while the symbol of main body was considered more important in Choson era. 6) The role of Thidon in the composition of Embroidered Norigae is declined and a lot of main bodies are used in modern Embroidered Norigae. 7) Modern Korean people are apt to choose Embroidered Norigae depending upon the design of main body and the traditional Korean beauty. 8) Modern people who desire to get new thing, try to make the design of main body various. As their cognition of Korean tradition is of the increase, the restoration of ancient Embroidered Norigae to its original form has been accom

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제45권4호
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• pp.4-21
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• 2012

한반도를 비롯한 중국, 일본, 러시아 등 동북아시아에서는 신석기시대 조 전기부터 결상이식, 비상수식(匕狀垂飾), 관옥(管玉) 등 장식용 옥기가 출토되고 있으며 이중 결상이식(?狀耳飾)은 이들 지역에서 공통적으로 출토되고 있다. 각 지역에서 출토되고 있는 결상이식은 비록 세부적인 외형에서는 약간의 차이를 보이고 있지만, 대체로 모두 환형(環形)의 고리에 중간에 절개부분(절구(缺口))이 있는 것이 특징으로, 고고학적 출토위치나 형태상으로 판단할 때 이식(耳飾)의 기능을 했을 것으로 판단되어 결상이식으로 칭하여지는 유물이다. 신석기시대 결상이식이 가장 많이 분포하는 지역은 중국 동북지역 및 장강(長江) 이남지역, 일본열도 등이다. 그러나 아쉽게도 동아시아 신석기시대 조 전기 문화의 특징을 보이고 있는 결상이식은 한반도에서 출토된 예가 많지 않아 지금까지 보고된 수는 모두 8건에 해당한다. 특히 2000년대까지는 그 출토 위치가 정확한 결상이식은 그 보고사례가 전무하며, 지표채집이나 시굴조사 등을 통해 출토된 3건이 전해져 왔을 뿐이다. 그러나 최근 2000년대에 들어와 그 발견 예가 증가하고 있는 추세를 보이고 있으며, 특히 2000년대 이후 발견된 5건은 모두 정식 발굴조사를 통해 그 출토위치나 사용 시대를 가늠할 수 있다. 이들의 출토 정황으로 판단해 볼 때, 한반도 출토 결상이식은 신석기시대 조기~전기 사이 석부(石斧)와 공반출토된다는 양상이 나타나고 있다. 또한 현재까지 출토량이 많지 않은 것으로 보아 신석기시대 당시 특수한 역할을 했던 일부 사람들만이 향유할 수 있었던 유물로 판단된다. 한편 지금까지 발견된 결상이식은 주변지역으로부터 유입되었을 가능성이 높다. 특히 남해의 경우는 일본열도와, 동해의 경우에는 중국 동북지역이나 러시아 연해주지역과의 연관성이 높다고 판단된다. 그러나 아직까지 한반도에서 출토되고 있는 결상이식은 주변국인 중국과 일본에 비해 그 수적인 면에서 볼 때 극히 적은 수에 해당하며, 이에 대한 국내 연구도 거의 진행된 바가 없었다. 현재까지 한반도 내 신석기유적에 대한 발굴조사 및 연구가 다른 시기에 비해 충분하고 활발하게 이루어지지 못했다는 점을 감안할 때 향후 더 많은 조사와 연구를 통해 결상이식에 대한 충분한 자료 확보도 기대해 봐야 할 것으로 판단된다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.13-22
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• 2007

As the world has been forming the global village and the cultures of each country are exchanged, the unique cultural specialty of each country high been merged with the generality in the world. The increasing interest on the oriental world and the globalization recently brings the fusion form of oriental and occidental cultures. In such a global trend, it is our challenge to find out the traditional beauty and the design factors of Korea for the new challenge and development of Korean fashion and to develop the most Korean and global design by interpreting them in a modem sense. It is the Era of the Three States when an of official hat among the personal ornaments of Korea was firstly described on the literature, including the literature of ancient China and Chronicles of Three States and Heritage of Three States of Korea. Those literatures clarified that the people in Goguryeo Baekje, Silla and Gaya decorated themselves with gold, silver and jade. Furthermore, since various kinds of ornaments have been excavated, they shown the development of metal craft in the Era of Three States. This study aim to exploit the design motives among the gold crown elements among the ornaments during the Era of Three States, interpret them in a modem expression, develop the textile design using the Adobe photoshop and suggest the application approaches by applying them to the clothing design.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제35권2호
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• pp.169-176
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• 2019

국립민속박물관에서 소장하고 있는 19세기 말~20세기 여성용 쓰개에 사용된 장식 19점에 대하여 SEM-EDS로 조성을 분석하였다. 쓰개 장식 16점은 융제 성분인 $Na_2O$와 PbO를 함유하고 있어 한국의 고대부터 출토되거나 전승되어온 납유리와 조성이 다른 유형의 납유리였다. 쓰개 장식 2점은 $Na_2O$와 $K_2O$가 3% 혹은 5% 이상 함유한 알칼리혼합유리, 1점은 CaO를 5% 이상 함유한 포타쉬유리 III형으로 분류되었다. 이 중 납유리는 일제강점기 조선에 수입된 일본의 공예용 납유리와 조성이 유사하여, 19세기 말~20세기 여성용 쓰개 중 납유리를 사용한 장식은 원료를 일본에서 수입하였거나 조선 내 일본인 기술로 생산한 공예용 납유리로 제작된 것으로 추정된다. 이를 통해 근현대에 들어서 전통적으로 사용되어온 쓰개 장식의 사용된 옥이나 호박과 같은 보석이 일본에서 수입된 공예용 납유리로 대체되어 새롭게 사용되었음을 보여주고 있다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제3권2호
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• pp.241-260
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• 1995

The Maori's traditional clothing materials, basic forms of dress, and the pattern and technique of tatoo were examined in the present study in order to deepen the appreciation of the cultural heritage of the Maori. The research method employed was the analysis of written materials. And a fild-trip was also made for the study. The study was limitted to the traditional culture of body adornment of the Maori including the clothing which is preserved and practicing by them at the present day, and the origin and the process of the historical development of those are not included in the scope of the present study. Followings are the results of the study: (1) By far the most widely used fiber for Maori clothing is abtained from what is commonly called New Zealand Flax. The fiber of kiekie(Freycinetia baueriana) and cabbage trees(Cordyline spp.) may also be used. The strong, long-lasting fiber of toi(cordyline indivisa) is used for a prestige warrior's cloak. Flat strips of ti kauka(Cordyline australi) are also used as thatch on rain cloaks. (2) Regardless of technique used, Maori weaving is always worked horizontally from left to right. Traditionally the work was suspended between two upright turuturu or weaving sticks. As the work progressed a second pair of uprights was used to keep the work off the ground. These uprights were moved forward as required. Because the weaver sat on the ground, the working edge was kept at a height that was comfortable to reach. No weaving tools are used, the wefts(aho) being manipulated by the fingers. The two main Maori weaving techniques are whatu aho patahi(single-pair twining) and whatu aho rua(double-pair twining). (3) The Maori wore two basic garments - a waist met and a cloak. The cloth of commoners were of plain manufacture, while those of people of rank were superior, sometimes being decorated with feather or dyed tags and decorated borders. Children ran more-or-less naked until puberty, being dressed only for special events. Some working dress consisted of nothing more than belts with leaves thrust under them. Chiefs and commoners usually went barefoot, using rough sandals on journeys over rough country (4) The adornment of men and women of rank was an important matter of tribal concern as it was in chiefly persons that prestige of the group was centred, The durable items of Maori persons adornment were either worn or carried. Ornaments of various kinds were draped about the neck or suspended from pierced earlobes. Combs decorated the head. Personal decorations not only enhanced the appearance of men and women, but many had protective magical function. The most evident personal ornament was the hei-tiki made of jade or other material. Maori weapons were treasured by their owners. They served on bottle and were also personal regalia. A man of rank was not fully dressed without a weapon in hand. Also weapons were essential to effective oratory. (5) No man or woman of rank went without some tattoo adornment except in extremely rare instances when a person was too sacred to have any blood shed. The untattooed were marked as beeing commoners of no social standing. This indelible mark of rank was begun, with appropriate rite and ritual, at puberty. And tattoo marked the person as being of a marriageable age. Maori tattoo was unlike most traditional tattoo in that its main line were 'engraved' on the face with deep cuts made by miniature bone chisels. The fill-in areas were not tattooed with cuts but with the multiple pricks of small bone 'combs' that only lightly penetrated the skin surface. The instrument of tattoo consisted of small pots of pumice or wood into which was placed a wetted black pigment made from burnt kauri gum, burnt vegetable caterpillars or other sooty materials. A bird bone chisel or comb set at right angles on a short wooden handle was dipped into the gigment, that a rod or stick was used to tap head of this miniature adze, causing penetration of the skin surface. Black pigment lodged under the skin took on a bluish tinge. A full made facial tattoo consisted of major spirals with smaller spirals on each side of the nose and sweeping curved lines radiating out from between the brows over the forehead and from the nose to the chin. The major patterns were cut deep, while the secondary koru patterns were lightly pricked into the skin.