• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.8 s.108
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• pp.74-82
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• 2006

In ancient China, Su(綬) was the ornament of the full dress. It had originated from tying the jade or another thing before Jen(秦:Qin) dynasty and it tied the imperial jade seal and the chop from Han dynasty. Su of Han dynasty was different in the inscape, colour, length and density according to the grade. And the shape was the straight line. But these phenomena were changed after Han dynasty. This study showed how it changed. To studying used the comparison method of literature records, paintings and archeological relics. It mostly studied imperial Su. Su of Han dynasty of the high grade was formed by Yeok, the circle type jade and Su(Su moaned whole Su, at the same time moaned the part of Su, too). Afterward, Yeok was changed into Small Su[小綬] and Su was changed into Big Su(大綬). Originally the circle type jade was connecting Yeok to Su, but it was changed into tying Small Su only. Su of Han dynasty used the four kinds of colour, but from Su(隋: Sui) dynasty used the six kinds of colour. Originally Su was interlacing, but it was changed into the silk fabric from Song[宋] dynasty. According to using silk fabric's Su, it was likely to disappear the system distinguishing the grade by length. And it kept the method of interlacing the reticulation in the low part of silk fabric's Su. So, after using silk fabric's Su, the system of the density was not about the main body but about the reticulation. Su was been used woven with supplementary golden wefts, too. The circle type jade was chiseled the dragon and cloud from Geum[金:Jin] dynasty. These not the pattern of silk fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.3
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• pp.19-33
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• 2008

Hair style of royal ladies in the 19th century according to the wedding record of King Heon-jong and Lady Sunhwagung is studied in this paper and summarized as follows: First, Saengmeori was a bridal hair style for the wedding night in Gyeonmagi(jacket) and Daeranchima(Skirt with gold trimming). It was a typical girls' hair style before the coming-of-age ceremony. It was composed of Saengmeoridari(wig), Seockunghwang, Jogduri(Coronet decorated with Jewellery), Saengdaeng-gi(hair ribbon) trimmed pearls, and jade disk trimmed pearls. Second, Garaemeori(double bun hair style) was the hair style with Wonsam when the chosen bride went to Byeol-Gung, a special palace for the bridal. It was composed of Gareachi(wig) and Cheopji(small wig) with the frontal hair ornament, jogduri, and Saidang-gi(hair ribbon). Third, Jojimmeori(single bun hair style) is a basic hair style for the madame. It was composed of jojimmeorichilbo, jogduri, jojimmeoridari(wig), and Cheopji with a frontal hair ornament. Fourth, Keunmeori is the second most important hair style for the court ceremony. It was composed of Eoyeomjogduri, Eoyeomdari(wig), Cheopji with a frontal hair ornament, Keunmeoridari(wig), and Keunmeorichilbo. Fifth, Susik, the most important hair style for the court ceremony, is the hair style for ceremonies including the day of becoming the formal queen, the first greeting day to the King's family. It was composed of 4 kinds of wigs and Susik-chilbo.

• Archives of design research
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.43-62
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• 1989

The luxury is the expression of human being's ornament instinct. In this study, in order to grasp the moulding system of the Korean's personal ornaments, the process of luxury prohibition was reviewed to search for to which direction the ornaments developed in the frame of the prohibited style connected closely to the character of the personal ornaments. The proiod was fixed from the old society to the late Chosun dynasty era. The beginning of the luxury in Korea seems to be the start of the luxury burial at the time of funeral in the age of Koguryo., In the era of Koguryo, 10th year of King Dongmyung (B. C. 28), in the era of Baekje, 27th year of King Koi(260), the prohibition of dress regulation and the style of dress were conducted. The prohibition of personal ornaments in Silla was started from King Bup:Heung, and in the 9th year of King Heung-Duk, the prohibition was conducted in order to correct the luxury of the nobles and set up the social discipline. In the 11 th of King Il-Sung-Ni-Sa-Kum, the use of gold, silver and jade was prohibited in the civilian circles. The prohibition of Silla was succeeded to Koryo era, and in the 7th year of King Kwangjong(956), the system of Baekgwan Gongbok(uniform for government officials) was set up, and the system of Sasek Gongbok(four color official uniform) was set up in the 11 th year of the same King, and the prohibition of the personal ornaments such as crown and band is considred to have been conducted. The prohibition of gold and silver was conducted in the first year of King Sungjong(982), and in the 4th year of King Chungryul(l260), the order of wearing the dress and hat in accordance with the Yusan dynasty and the Mongolian customs were widely circulated in the royal court and vivilian circles. The strong influence of Mongolia made the taste of the traditional personal ornaments laste. The personal ornaments were used for the nobles until the age of the Unified Sillar but even the common people could use them in case they were rich, and such a circumstances made the use of foreign goods inflated. The prohibition of Koryo era was aimed at the prohibition of the foreign goods of luxury, and the classification of the social status.In the age of Chosun Dynasty, the production of gold and silver was feeble indeed but the oute reason of the prohibition was to eradicate the luxurious tendency, elevate the custom of eradicate the luxurious tendency, elevate the custom of thrift, and moreover, the gold, silver and jade were no the products of Korea and the prohibition was conducted but the true reason was afor the tribute tt China and the classification of status. The prohibition of Chosun dynasty was conducted first in the June of the 3rd year of King Taejo The major contents of prohibition was no use of gold, silver and jade, coral, agate, amber, etc. of th, wives of the Dang-Sang-Kwan (Court Nobleman) or their sons and daughters, and the same pheno menon was common even at the time of marriage. The people engaged in the secret trade there of wert beheaded. The personal ornaments in the prohibition were the pendent trinket, Binyo (crossbar) ceremonial ornamental hat, ring, earring, ornamental knife, hat string, hat ornament, belt, etc. Thl luxurious marriage expenses out of the luxury was severe, and lose of the marriageable age because 0 non-preparing the marriage goods was the national evil. The prohibition oC luxury was hard to bt kept to the nobles or rich people, the same as old days and present days. The prohibition of th{ luxury and personal ornaments of Korea had nothing to do with the commons, and it was limited tc the nobles and rich people. The prohibition was aimed to cultivating the custom of frugality by eradicating the luxurious atmosphere, but it was chiefly due to the tribute to the China and tht discrimination of the. status. We can say that the recent personal ornament was the flower of handi craft industry bloomed in the prohibition and regulation.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.44 no.3
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• pp.62-77
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• 2011

Yi Sunsin's artifacts had been exhibited at Hyeonchungsa in Asan-si, Chungchungnam-do. These artifacts include Janggeom(Long swords), Okno(Jade ornament of Korea traditional hat), Yodae(Waist belt) and Dobae(Peach shaped wine cups) Gudae(Yodae's saucers). These were covered with dust and corroded due to long term display. Condition of these artifacts was examined for a re-opening of Yi Chungmugong Memorial Pavilion on 28 March 2011. Before conservation treatment of the artifacts, scientific analysis was conducted to identify the material of the artifacts. The result showed that the red paint on the hilt of the sword is composed of two layers. Pigments of two layers were found to be hematite and cinnabar mixed with red lead respectively. Mixed layer was assumed to have been applied recently. Also it was found that the blade of the sword was repainted using chrome yellow($PbCrO_4$). Considering the time limit, conservation treatment focused on stabilization of damaged area and prevention of futher risk during display.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.26
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• pp.83-182
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• 2021

This study summarized the results of the conservation treatment and investigation on the production method of the golden crown (Treasure No. 339) excavated from Tomb No. 129 (also known as Seobongchong Tomb) in Noseo-dong, Gyeongju-si, Gyeongsangbuk-do Province. The golden crown from Seobongchong Tomb was discovered during the excavations conducted by the Museum of the Government-General of Korea in 1926 during the Japanese colonial era. It is currently in the collection of the National Museum of Korea. A total of six Silla golden crowns have survived in Korea, among which the crown from Seobongchong Tomb is the only example with a dome-shaped hemispherical decoration attached with a bird ornament while otherwise showing the typical features of Silla crowns. The crown had been repaired following its excavation using metallic materials and adhesives, but due to the partial deformation and damage brought about by the repair materials, it required further conservation treatment. This article describes in detail the overall process of the conservation treatment and the restoration of the original form of the golden crown from Seobongchong Tomb, particularly the method of reinforcing the joints to secure the stability of the crown. It presents the characteristics of the crown's production as revealed in the investigation during the conservation treatment, and further analyzes the relationship of this crown from Seobongchong Tomb with other Silla crowns through a comparison of their production techniques. The investigation revealed that the crown was primarily decorated with golden sequins at the time of its production. At a later point some of the sequins in the upright ornament were replaced with comma-shaped jade beads and additional comma-shaped jade beads were added to the headband. In order to determine if such modifications to the decoration had occurred with other Silla crowns, the decoration of the six extant Silla golden crowns were investigated. The crown from Cheonmachong Tomb features traces of this same modification to the decoration and possesses other similarities with the crown from Seobongchong Tomb.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.18
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• pp.373-381
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• 1992

Woman in Choson era had various kind of accdssories like rings, ear ring, ornamentak hairpins and so on. Among them their favorite was the Norigae, the pendent trinket. With the embroidered ornament at its center, beads and knots were attached to the upper and lower part, and it was hung with a tassel. It was carried on the string of the Chogori. norigae oreginated in waist string of Three Countries era(Sills, Paekje and Koguryo) ; had been changed with the development of fashion, embroidery and the influence of Buddhistic culture. The differences between Embroidered Norigae and Norigae are following. If the ornament at its center is made of such jewels as gold, silver, jade and the like, it is called Norigae. But if the ornament at its center is made of the embroidered Norigae. Such a Embroidered Norigae in which perfume was contained, was as a perfume box or a perfume bag and was carried on the strings of Chogori by Danjak(single work). The Differences between ancient Embroidered Norigae of late Choson era and modern Embroidered Norigae are Following; 1) The type of main body-the embroidered ornament at its center was mainly embroidered with the shape of animals in both of ancient Embroidered Norigae was usually formes like a bat and that of modern Embroidered Norigae like butterfly. 2) plants were adapted as the main design of ancient Embroidered Norigae, but plants and animals as that of modern Embroidered Norigae. 3) The colors of the background and the design are usually red in both ancient and modern Embroidered norigae. 4) The tassels of ancient Embroidered Norigae were mode in the shape of srick and a strawberry. but the tassels of modern Embroidered Norigae were mainly made in the shape of a stick. 5) Nowadays the beauty of external form is considered more important while the symbol of main body was considered more important in Choson era. 6) The role of Thidon in the composition of Embroidered Norigae is declined and a lot of main bodies are used in modern Embroidered Norigae. 7) Modern Korean people are apt to choose Embroidered Norigae depending upon the design of main body and the traditional Korean beauty. 8) Modern people who desire to get new thing, try to make the design of main body various. As their cognition of Korean tradition is of the increase, the restoration of ancient Embroidered Norigae to its original form has been accom

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.45 no.4
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• pp.4-21
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• 2012

Jade ornaments, which include slit earrings, scoop-shaped objects and tubular beads have been extensively identified in Northeast Asia, such as Korea, China, Japan and the Maritime Province of Siberia. Among them slit earrings are distributed in the whole area of Northeast Asia. Although this object shows the typological differences in accordance with the excavated region in detail, all of them are characterised by the slit on the centre of jade ring. The buried context and the shape of this object suggest that this artefact was the earring; thus it is named to 'slit earring'. Most of slit earrings of the Neolithic Age concentrate in Northeast China and the areas south of the Yangtze River, and the Japanese Archipelago. However, unfortunately, Slit earrings, which were produced in the tradition of the incipient and early phases of the Neolithic Age in Northeast Asia, have not been excavated in the Korean Peninsula. The number of slit earrings reported so far is eight, and especially until the 20th century, almost none was reported with its exact excavation location and only three of them are known as excavated through surface surveys and preliminary excavations. However, from the beginning of the 21st century onwards, the number of discovered slit earrings is increasing. Particularly, five pieces of this object uncovered in the 21st century are discovered in the official excavation; thus the exact archaeological context such as buried locations and chronologies could be estimated. By considering the buried context, slit earrings are associated with stone axes, which were produced in the incipient and early phase of the Neolithic Age in the Korean Peninsula. In addition, considering the number of unearthed objects is a few, it could be postulate that slit earring was the artefact that only a few persons, who had a special role in the society, could possess. However, slit jade earrings that have been excavated in the Korean Peninsula are extremely low in their number compared to the cases of its neighbouring countries such as China and Japan, and the researches on this subject have not been much conducted in Korea. Therefore, it is my supposition that slit earrings, which have been discovered in the Korean Peninsula, might be the imported item from the nearby areas. Particularly, the Southern Coast was closely connected with Japanese Islands and the Eastern Coast was interchanged with Northeast China or the Maritime Province of Siberia. Considering that excavations and researches on the Neolithic remains in the Korean Peninsula have not been sufficiently and actively conducted, it could be expected that the further investigations and researches will reveal the sufficient quantities of slit earrings in near future.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.13-22
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• 2007

As the world has been forming the global village and the cultures of each country are exchanged, the unique cultural specialty of each country high been merged with the generality in the world. The increasing interest on the oriental world and the globalization recently brings the fusion form of oriental and occidental cultures. In such a global trend, it is our challenge to find out the traditional beauty and the design factors of Korea for the new challenge and development of Korean fashion and to develop the most Korean and global design by interpreting them in a modem sense. It is the Era of the Three States when an of official hat among the personal ornaments of Korea was firstly described on the literature, including the literature of ancient China and Chronicles of Three States and Heritage of Three States of Korea. Those literatures clarified that the people in Goguryeo Baekje, Silla and Gaya decorated themselves with gold, silver and jade. Furthermore, since various kinds of ornaments have been excavated, they shown the development of metal craft in the Era of Three States. This study aim to exploit the design motives among the gold crown elements among the ornaments during the Era of Three States, interpret them in a modem expression, develop the textile design using the Adobe photoshop and suggest the application approaches by applying them to the clothing design.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.35 no.2
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• pp.169-176
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• 2019

The material composition of 19 ornaments used for women's hats in the late $19^{th}$ century to $20^{th}$ century, which are kept at National Folk Museum of Korea, was analyzed using SEM-EDS. Sixteen ornaments were composed of $Na_2O$ and PbO, which form adifferent lead glass from those that have been excavated or handed down since ancient times in Korea. The chemical composition analysis has confirmed that two ornaments belong to the mixed alkali glass, while one belongs to the potash glass IIItype. This lead glass is similar in composition to the Japanese craft lead glass that was imported to Joseon during the Japanese colonial era. It is estimated that the lead glass ornaments used in women's hats in the late $19^{th}$ century to $20^{th}$ century were made from raw materials imported from Japan or made from lead glass used for crafts in Japan. This shows that jewelry such as jade and amber, which have been traditionally used in the modern and present ages, have been replaced by craft lead glass imported from Japan.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.241-260
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• 1995

The Maori's traditional clothing materials, basic forms of dress, and the pattern and technique of tatoo were examined in the present study in order to deepen the appreciation of the cultural heritage of the Maori. The research method employed was the analysis of written materials. And a fild-trip was also made for the study. The study was limitted to the traditional culture of body adornment of the Maori including the clothing which is preserved and practicing by them at the present day, and the origin and the process of the historical development of those are not included in the scope of the present study. Followings are the results of the study: (1) By far the most widely used fiber for Maori clothing is abtained from what is commonly called New Zealand Flax. The fiber of kiekie(Freycinetia baueriana) and cabbage trees(Cordyline spp.) may also be used. The strong, long-lasting fiber of toi(cordyline indivisa) is used for a prestige warrior's cloak. Flat strips of ti kauka(Cordyline australi) are also used as thatch on rain cloaks. (2) Regardless of technique used, Maori weaving is always worked horizontally from left to right. Traditionally the work was suspended between two upright turuturu or weaving sticks. As the work progressed a second pair of uprights was used to keep the work off the ground. These uprights were moved forward as required. Because the weaver sat on the ground, the working edge was kept at a height that was comfortable to reach. No weaving tools are used, the wefts(aho) being manipulated by the fingers. The two main Maori weaving techniques are whatu aho patahi(single-pair twining) and whatu aho rua(double-pair twining). (3) The Maori wore two basic garments - a waist met and a cloak. The cloth of commoners were of plain manufacture, while those of people of rank were superior, sometimes being decorated with feather or dyed tags and decorated borders. Children ran more-or-less naked until puberty, being dressed only for special events. Some working dress consisted of nothing more than belts with leaves thrust under them. Chiefs and commoners usually went barefoot, using rough sandals on journeys over rough country (4) The adornment of men and women of rank was an important matter of tribal concern as it was in chiefly persons that prestige of the group was centred, The durable items of Maori persons adornment were either worn or carried. Ornaments of various kinds were draped about the neck or suspended from pierced earlobes. Combs decorated the head. Personal decorations not only enhanced the appearance of men and women, but many had protective magical function. The most evident personal ornament was the hei-tiki made of jade or other material. Maori weapons were treasured by their owners. They served on bottle and were also personal regalia. A man of rank was not fully dressed without a weapon in hand. Also weapons were essential to effective oratory. (5) No man or woman of rank went without some tattoo adornment except in extremely rare instances when a person was too sacred to have any blood shed. The untattooed were marked as beeing commoners of no social standing. This indelible mark of rank was begun, with appropriate rite and ritual, at puberty. And tattoo marked the person as being of a marriageable age. Maori tattoo was unlike most traditional tattoo in that its main line were 'engraved' on the face with deep cuts made by miniature bone chisels. The fill-in areas were not tattooed with cuts but with the multiple pricks of small bone 'combs' that only lightly penetrated the skin surface. The instrument of tattoo consisted of small pots of pumice or wood into which was placed a wetted black pigment made from burnt kauri gum, burnt vegetable caterpillars or other sooty materials. A bird bone chisel or comb set at right angles on a short wooden handle was dipped into the gigment, that a rod or stick was used to tap head of this miniature adze, causing penetration of the skin surface. Black pigment lodged under the skin took on a bluish tinge. A full made facial tattoo consisted of major spirals with smaller spirals on each side of the nose and sweeping curved lines radiating out from between the brows over the forehead and from the nose to the chin. The major patterns were cut deep, while the secondary koru patterns were lightly pricked into the skin.