• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.111-121
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• 2004

The Mevelana sect is a spiritual Islamic group experiencing spiritual transaction with their god through a peculiar dancing as a form of religious ritual. The Mevelana, a sect of Islamic Sufism, has their head mosque in Konya in Turkey. Although Mevelana sect is regarded as heretic of Islam, it has exerted considerable influence on the Islamic religion through its peculiar religious worshiping form constituted in dancing and reciting poems. Nowadays, Turkey recognizes the Mevelana dancing as their precious cultural legacy of a long history, exerting public information efforts to give it for wider publicity of Turkey to the world. The Mevelana dress with ornament attired for the ritual dancing performance is regarded to symbolize a spiritual medium, which leads to conciliation with the eternity. The straight lines and curved line characteristic of the Mevelana dancer's trousers, skirt, jacket and such mirrors the image of the Orientals, which is in peculiar contrast with the white and gray colors of the dress with ornament. The impression of the spiritual Mevelana dressing in harmony with the dynamic dancing motion goes beyond mere a religious dressing. It is expressive of a graceful and sophisticated modern formative art, of which the mystic design gives an inspiration to the modern fashion. After Poiret, Islamic factors have emerged in the modern fashion. For instance, a hat with Arabic fashion lapel, a Fez hat of Turkish style, harem pants and such are still popular in the modern fashion. It seems probable that the Iraq War would far more activate the influence of Arabic culture to the modern fashion. By making an analysis on the religious background and formative characteristics of the Mevelana dressing, and by giving design examples on how the Mevelanan dressing has been applied to the modern fashion, this research suggests working out new designs by making a renewed application of their characteristics to the modern fashion.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.1061-1068
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• 2007

The study has sought to explore how fashion emerges as a comprehensive tool of dress for increasing its brand appeal and express one's artistic sense and fashion by using everything from make-up to hair to trappings. Therefore, when it comes to fashion trends reflected in collections, the study is designed to improve understanding of make-up as one of the elements of total fashion and to help create diverse ideas in expressing creative and free make-up that can help perfect fashion concept in harmony with all the other elements. The study has pondered upon collection, trends and fashion make-up through literature study, and has gathered image data via the Internet. It also has conducted analysis of Ethnic style reconstructed combining past and the future, East and the West, and futurism style using asymmetrical forms without no defined patterns and hi-tech textures, which emerges as a result of post-modernism. The results of the study are as follows. Ethnic fashion that pursues strange and exotic beauty is characterized by its simple and idyllic images of traditional costume in Asia or primitive clothes in Africa. Make-up represent images of matt and pale skin, tanned yellow, glossy and thickly powered squeaky white skin. Point make-up highlighted eye lines, red chick, small and voluptuous red lips. Hair and accessory seeks diversity combining various ethnic styles together such as oriental, Indian, Islam and Africa. In addition, future-oriented fashion of the 21st century, twists in texture, various kinds of materials and changes in technique help give impressions of freedom and bizarreness.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.17-35
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• 2021

The purpose of this study was to analyze the different consumption patterns of fashion products according to the demographic characteristics and religious variables of Muslim women in Indonesia. The research method consisted of a questionnaire, which surveyed Muslim women in Indonesia, whose ages ranged from teens to 40s. The final questionnaire made use of 301 responses, and the analysis methods included 𝛘²-testing, factor analysis, and ANOVA. The results of this survey are as follows: For differences in average monthly clothing purchase costs, there were significant differences according to age, monthly income, final education, and whether or not the respondent wore a hijab, but there was also significant difference according to marital status and religious faithfulness. Muslim women's clothing purchasing factors were practicality, visibility, fit-to-wear, and design. In terms of the differences in factors which were considered when purchasing clothing, they depended on whether or not the respondent was married, practicality and visibility according to age, visibility according to final education, and religious faithfulness. There were significant differences in practicality and visibility, but not according to monthly income. When accounting for the differences in the places where Muslim women bought fashion products, there were significant differences according to marital status and age. In terms of the differences in reasons for choosing a place of purchase, there were significant differences according to age, monthly income, final education, and the degree of hijab wearing.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.297-306
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• 2004

Mehndi, becoming a kind of body fashion in western advanced countries nowadays, is a exquisite, classical fashion form sublimated to traditional faith, medicine and designing art. As one of the cultural arts, especially transmitted by women, a individual tradition of the way how to do the mehndi and the design has been handed down from one culture to another over a thousand of years and it is extensively using in many area, all around world today. Mehndi was used as preparing for special events or celebrations in India, Africa, Central Asia in order to pray for happiness, good luck and calm hart 5000 years ago. Especially, it is concerned with romantic love or a wedding and takes important part of a traditional wedding reception and bride adorning in the culture of Hindu or Islam. In addition to adorning skin, mehndi has various symbols, meaning, function, that is, as a speechless language, in several cultures, it has common meaning such as attraction, protection, celebration. The design of mehndi has been in harmony with the figure, colors, skin types of the dress or the ornament. According to the region, religion, design, mehndi is divided into the design of India and Morocco mostly. Indian design mainly shows flowers and paisley pattern, people widely recognize this design to celebrate and adorn bride in wedding ceremony, still apply mehndi the present time. Moroccan mehndi design, representing North Africa, characterized a bold geometrical figure which stands for belief in living under the protection from supernatural power. Through the understanding of these various meaning, function, symbolism of the design, adorning their body, the current general public use mehndi as not only aesthetic means but also another self expression.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.15-31
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• 2005

Suhainmyuldo(수하인물도) is a kind of picture which express a person under the tree and is known to be transmitted from the Middle Asia. The origin of this kind of expression is assumed to be from Iykshini(=Iygsha), the fairy of tree, in India of from the 'Tree of Life' in W. Asia, and they had in fluenced on the craft art design of Chinese art. However, Chinese art had already developed the motif of this kind in its unique way. For example, Jookrimchilhundo(죽림칠현도: seven wise men in bamboo forest), during Six Dynasty. The tree of life(arbor vitae, lignum viate), the origin of the Painting of figure under a tree(수하인물도), was spreaded in several regions around the center of Mesopotamia early, and them transmitted to Sasan dynasty of Persia, even to Islam, Byzantine, Romanesque, ancient East Asia. The mural painting found in the 4th Tongu Ogoe tomb, which was created after the 5th Tongu Ogoe tomb, used Obangsaek more than the 5th tomb painting did. (The term Obansaek refers to the five Korean traditional colors consisted of yellow, blue, white, red and black) The mural painting on the 4th Ogoe tomb employed distinct technique to depict an object in a certain color by painting the surroundings with different primary colors, making the painting look more exotic and mysterious.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.21-30
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to research the symbolistic values of western beards' style in the twentieth century. Namely, it is to consider the relationship between social-cultural factors and aesthetic meanings of western beards' style. The contents are, firstly, studying the conception and the types of beard. A beard is the hair that grows on a person's chin, cheeks, neck, and the area above the upper lip. At the World Beard & Moustache Championships, there are moustache category (natural, english, hungarian, dali, fu manchu, freestyle), beard category (natural, musketeer, goatee, sideburns, freestyle), and full beard category (natural, garibaldi, verdi, van dyck, freestyle), Secondly, this paper is continued by researching the history of beard from the ancient to the present day, and thirdly, analyzing political dictatorship, social resistance and expression of personality, religious dignity, related with the change of world situation, the formation of postmodern anti-culture and pop-culture, and the coexistence of traditional culture. There are long and bushy full beards in some religions like Hinduism, Judaism and Islam. The meanings of their beards are purity, life and holiness. The beards of some politicians symbolize dictatorship. Namely, the chaplin of Hitler, the moustache of Hussein and the musketeer of Castro express strong power and charisma. In 1950s'-70s' subcultures, Hipsters' goatee, Bikers' horseshoe, Beat generations' goatee and Hippies' natural represent the lack of adaptability and social resistance. Also, the celebrities and artists like Ronald Colman, Clark Gable, Don Johnson, George Clooney, and Salvador Dali express freedom, personality, and taste with beards. For that matter, the symbolistic values of beards' style in the twentieth century are the religious dignity, the political dictatorship, the social resistance and the expression of personality. Today the beards' style is one of fashion items as well as a symbol of masculinity, customs and classes.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.29-42
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• 2012

Historically, the pattern and technology of Copts' textiles, who were a minority in Egypt, have been studied a lot in the textile sector due to its unique characteristics. Unlike ones in other regions that appeared around the same time, the overall configuration ratio of the patterns looks exaggerated or distorted because they expressed it plainly by interpreting the world with ordinary people's eyes. Also, because it had used mixed linen and woolen yarns, harsh expression way and the use of various colors have been one of the features in Coptic textiles. Coptic textiles, which have been developed along with the historical development of continued domination from neighboring countries, have expressed the effects of the Roman Empire, Christ, Christianity, and Islam on the pattern of its fabric. This study analyzed its characteristics which make people smile by the way of expressing a simple and humorous representation of the textiles and categorized them as Humoristic Beauty - the aesthetic category of humorous feature. In this study, the Humoristic Beauty in Coptic textiles has been analyzed in terms of the following three smiles; the smiles coincidental with the flow of time, the smiles made by the shaping of distorted proportions and appearance, and the smiles like folk-paintings made by a rustic expression way. This study shows the possibility of the further studies on the textile patterns history from a different angle. I look forward to more detailed analysis in the follow-up studies in the future.

• Wind and Structures
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.103-120
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• 2009

Articulated tower platforms due to its compliant nature are more susceptible to the dynamic effects of wind than conventional fixed platforms. Dynamic response analysis of a double hinged articulated tower excited by low frequency wind forces with random waves is presented in this paper. The exposed super structure of the platform, housing the drilling and production facilities is subjected to mean and fluctuating wind loads, while the submerged portion is acted upon by wind driven waves. The fluctuating component of the wind velocity is modeled by Emil Simiu's spectrum, while the sea state is characterized by Pierson-Moskowitz spectrum. Nonlinearities in the system due to drag force, added mass, variable submergence and instantaneous tower orientation are considered in the analysis. To account for these nonlinearities, an implicit time integration scheme (Newmark's-${\beta}$) has been employed which solves the equation of motion in an iterative fashion and response time histories are obtained. The power spectra obtained from random response time histories show the significance of low frequency responses.

• International Journal of Computer Science & Network Security
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.236-244
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• 2022

Network Mobility Basic Support (NEMO BS) protocol has been accredited and approved by Internet Engineering Task Force (IETF) working group for mobility of sub-networks. Trains, aircrafts and buses are three examples of typical applications for this protocol. The NEMO BS protocol was designed to offer Internet access for a group of passengers in a roaming vehicle in an adequate fashion. Furthermore, in NEMO BS protocol, specific gateways referred to Mobile Routers (MRs) are responsible for carrying out the mobility management operations. Unfortunately, the main limitations of this basic solution are pinball suboptimal routing, excessive signaling cost, scalability, packet delivery overhead and handoff latency. In order to tackle shortcomings of triangular routing and Quality of Service (QoS) deterioration, the proposed scheme (Diff-FH NEMO) has previously evolved for end-users in moving network. In this sense, the article focuses on an exhaustive analytic evaluation at Home Agent (HA) entity of the proposed solutions. An investigation has been conducted on the signaling costs to assess the performance of the proposed scheme (Diff-FH NEMO) in comparison with the standard NEMO BS protocol and MIPv6 based Route Optimization (MIRON) scheme. The obtained results demonstrate that, the proposed scheme (Diff-FH NEMO) significantly improves the signaling cost at the HA entity in terms of the subnet residence time, number of mobile nodes, the number of DMRs, the number of LFNs and the number of CNs.