• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.67-87
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• 2023

This study analyzed the fashion design features of Iris van Herpen and createdsixdigital fashion designsusing the SCAMPER technique with 3D clothing design software, incorporating a futuristic theme. The research methodology involvedcase analysis and a literature survey. First, the study summarizedthe design style and characteristics of Iris van Herpen. Second, a design concept wasestablished, and a design mood board wascreated. Third, the resulting design features were combined with the SCAMPER technique to incorporate Iris van Herpen's design elements intonew digital fashion designs. Fourth, after discussion with the professor and expert group, six designs were selected for production. They includededgy suit coats, overcoats, asymmetrical hoodies and asymmetrical skirts, irregularly shaped tops, dresses, leggings, jackets,and fishtail skirts. This study provides a reference for the future development of digital fashion designs and showcases the integration of science and technology in fashion design.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.117-129
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• 2020

Just as the name 'aesthetics' implies, the meaning of 'aisthesis' or 'sense' in Greek, is perceived as an important element in modern social design. Gilles Deleuze emphasized sensory expression over the rational side of the body, and argued for sensory theory, which is the theory of how painting produces new senses. The purpose of this study was to theoretically examine the sensory theory of Deleuze, which has given new value to the senses, apply it to analyze the body expression method shown in the Iris van Herpen collection, and derive its aesthetic characteristics. In his sensory theory, Deleuze argued that the senses can be expressed by the embodiment of force and rhythm, and one can only create art through the senses. To develop one's philosophical logic through Bacon's painting, we divided it into Hysteria, Cops sans organs, Diagram, Becoming, and Paired figures. Based on these analyses, the visualization of the senses in Iris van Herpen fashion resulted in hysteria, organ-free body, diagrams, and heterogeneity combinations. Analysis of the method of expression revealed rhythmicity, atypicality, scalability, and reproducibility as expression characteristics. Applying Deleuze's sensory theory to access experimental Iris van Herpen's fashion could confirm that there was an open system's accessibility. Deleuze's sensory theory, which has given a new value to the senses, will further help to understand modern fashion design in a wide and diverse way and discover the intrinsic value within it.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.124-137
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• 2012

This study aims to identify the meaning and formation cause of a style, and the essential elements of style formation, through psychobiological research as well as an analysis of the designs of Iris Van Herpen, a fashion designer, who in just 6 years has developed into a world-renowned new designer. As a result, it has been found that the psychobiological causes to form a style stem from the action of 'long-term memory', which is consolidated by 'selective attention', 'perceptional subjectivity', the principle of the 'neuron's connection specificity and invariance', and the principle of a 'neuronal signal's unilateral flow'. With such action, Herpen could develop her own original composition techniques. The formative shapes created by such composition techniques are characterized by enumeration, superposition, and hanging. The study has also found that the essential elements for a designer to be able to form his/her own style include 'aesthetic originality' in which the designer views the property of a thing from his/her inherent perspective, and finds the uniqueness from the thing that only he/she can express, 'technical differences' that are creative and original, and 'formative specificity' that is summarized into one property through an impressive shape.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.124-133
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• 2016

Currently the fashion industry is developing to create a novel culture due to the very sensitive and knowledge-oriented advancement of the IT industry. With fast turnover of information, consumers have come to have a more diverse desire for purchasing. Cubical expression techniques, which empathizes formativeness, can be a creative expression method adjusting into the trend of this era. Along with functional aspects of consumers, even in a textile manufacturing sector, new materials are required to meet sensitive and emotional aspects. Consumers' desire for new and creative designs and the development and adoption of new materials are essential to meet their emotions. The IT industry and fashion industry are forced to combine and a 3D apparel CAD system has been developed, enabling virtual clothing to be represented within a computer virtual space. All processes such as design, pattern creation, sewing and simulation are possible in 3D level. Digital clothing can shorten the production process time and is very effective in that it can reduce clothing waste generated during the sample production. This paper reviewed the works of Dutch designer, Iris van Herpen, who has developed formative designs. She tries to build, construct, and sculpt employing diversified materials other than soft textile materials, as shown in her series of fashion shows. The materials include films, 3D printed polymers, stiff and sheer organza, and artificial leather textiles. A few characteristics of her works have been selected in order to prepare patterns exhibiting the traits. The paper further focused on the physical features of the textile materials used to express similar techniques and its various forms were reviewed.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.245-260
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• 2016

This study explored cases of 3D printing utilization in domestic and overseas fashion industries, and presented utilization strategies for fashion design departments in universities in future by grasping characteristics of newly appearing distribution types through 3D printing. Cases of producing costumes using 3D printing in fashion industry comprised a bikini using the material of Nylon12 that continuum fashion demonstrated, innovative 3D costumes by Iris Van Herpen, Tweed Suit using the material that Chanel manufactured with 3D printing technology, but they were limited to experimental fashion works due to limitations of 3D printer material and printing size. On the other hand, in fashion accessories, with jewelry and shoes at the head of the list, MCM and Kipling also demonstrated bags using this technology, and Elvis Pompilio and Gabriela Ligenza demonstrated 3D printing hat products as well. Except the above, as in glasses and neckties utilizing 3D printing, owing to reduced limitations of time, size and material, 3D printing was found to be utilized in fashion accessories other than costumes. Recently there has been a new consumption and distribution structure coming up focusing on 3D printing technology. That is, in overseas countries, content platforms sharing products modeled by oneself has rapidly appeared, and in our country as well, funnypoly, a 3D content platform appeared in 2015. The appearance of these new types of distribution structures means that the common people can produce design contents, and we believe that it may bring about a change in the traditional way of distribution structure. To walk in step with this change, it is believed that it is necessary for fashion design departments to raise college faculty members who can educate 3D printing, develop curriculum to educate 3D printing, and develop experiential programs connected with middle and high schools.