• 복식
• /
• 제67권4호
• /
• pp.38-57
• /
• 2017

Traditional costume in Indonesia represents identity of a person and it displays the origin and the status of the person. Where culture and religion are fused, the traditional costume serves one of the most functions in rituals in Bali. This research aims to analyze the characteristics of Balinese costumes by focusing on the Legong dance costume. Quantitative research was performed using 332 images of Indonesian costumes and 210 images of Balinese ceremonial costumes. Qualitative research was performed by doing field research in Puri Saba, Gianyar and SMKN 3 SUKAWATI(Traditional Art Middle School). The paper illustrates the influence and structure of Indonesian traditional costume. As the result, focusing on the upper wear costume showed that the ancient era costumes were influenced by animism. They consist of tube(kemben), shawl(syal), corset, dress(terusan), body painting and tattoo, jewelry(perhiasan), and cross. The Modern era, which was shaped by religion, consists of baju kurung(tunic) and kebaya(kaftan). The Balinese costume consists of the costume of participants and the costume of performers. Bali dancing is grouped into Wali dance(sacred), Bebali dance(theatrical), and Balih-balihan dance(entertainment). The Legong dance is included in the Balih-balihan dance, and its costume developed from 1920 until present. The characteristics of Legong dance costumes are 'Theatrical,' 'Angelic,' 'Charming,' and 'Decorative.' In conclusion, the balance of religion, culture, and art gives a unique trait in Bali. The Balinese social system, which is based on Hinduism, has influenced art and its function. This relationship creates a strong structure to the Balinese ceremonial costume, especially the Legong dance costume.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제29권6호
• /
• pp.810-827
• /
• 2021

Indonesian women have emerged as global consumers, and various studies are needed to expand the global fashion market targeting their needs. In this study, a survey was conducted to determine the fashion design preferences of Indonesian Muslim women according to demographic characteristics and religious variables. In this study, Indonesian women aged from their teens to their 40s were surveyed by questionnaire during June 2020. This yielded 301 survey responses, which were analyzed using χ²-test, t-test, ANOVA, and Duncan's multiple range test using SPSS23. The results of the study are as follows: Analysis of the demographic characteristics of Indonesian Muslim women and the degree of acceptance of fashion trends according to religious variables showed significant differences according to age, monthly income, and the extent to which they wore a hijab. Analysis of the demographic characteristics of the women and the degree of acceptance of the fitted garment according to religious variables showed significant differences depending on their age, whether they were married, their monthly income, religious faithfulness, the extent to which they wore a hijab, and the degree of acceptance of Islamic discipline. After examining the difference in Muslim women's preferred fashion images (according to demographic characteristics and religious variables), significant differences were identified according to their age, income, extent to which they wore a hijab, and the degree of Islamic discipline with regard to clothing.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제7권3호
• /
• pp.83-94
• /
• 2005

This paper is to analyze patterns for Indonesian traditional textiles. Ikat is the resist-dyeing process in which designs are reserved in warp or weft yams by tying off small bundles of threads with fiber resists to prevent the penetration of dye. Batik is the technique applying a wax resist before dyeing to form a pattern in negative. Ikat and batik are the most renowned textile arts of Indonesia. Patterns are classified as geometric pattern, plant pattern, animal pattern. Also this paper discusses the origins of ikat and batik. Therefore this Paper proposes the classification and feature extraction of ikat and batik patterns. The results of this study can be effectively applied to develop competitive pattern design for Indonesian textile market.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
• /
• 제12권1호
• /
• pp.85-92
• /
• 2009

The objectives of the research are to explain the nature of cultural diffusion and its associated theoretical concepts, to review the nature of traditional Indonesian textiles and to focus particular attention on the origin, evolution and diffusion of motifs and patterns associated with the decoration of two important categories of Indonesian textiles: batiks and ikats. Cultural diffusion refers to the process by which cultural traits, material objects, ideas, inventions, innovations or patterns of behaviour are spread from one social or geographical context to another. Examining the decoration on traditional textiles produced across the Indonesian archipelago, certain motifs and patterns are shown to have been retained from ancient times, and others have been adopted from elsewhere. There is great cultural diversity across the archipelago and ample evidence of cultural diffusion.

• 복식
• /
• 제66권6호
• /
• pp.67-78
• /
• 2016

Research on ancient Indonesian 'sacred cloths' is essential since it shows a different perspective into Indonesian identity. Based on its function, the 'sacred cloths' are either made as a medium for religious ceremonies or as a medium for the living and the dead. The consuetude of preparing and creating the 'sacred cloths' are done to achieve the finest 'sacred cloths' worthy to be presented to God. The research aims to analyze the characteristics of ancient Indonesian textiles and to focus on the 'sacred cloths.' The research is divided into two parts, and this paper is the first part. The paper analyzes the characteristics of ancient Indonesian textiles by focusing on the period, religion, region, and color of the 'sacred cloths.' The subsequent research analyzes the characteristics of ancient Indonesian textiles by focusing on the techniques and the patterns of the 'sacred cloths.' In this first part of the main research, the analysis reveals that animism developed in various ways in Indonesia from 500 BC to AD 1800. It was also as kingdoms of Buddhist, Hinduism, and Islam. The changes of religion may differ according to its region. Indonesian regions are divided into six big regions that produce textiles. These islands are Sumatra, Borneo, Java, Celebes, Nusa Tenggara, and Bali. By space and time, the colors of Indonesian textiles represent the ideology of one religion. Indonesia produces primary colors of red, yellow, and blue(RYB). The colors are produced by extracting leaves of Indigo, Indian Mulberry root shell, Sappanwood's branches, Candlenut fruit, Turmeric root, and Mangosteen rind. Indonesia is a religious country, therefore the meaning of creating each 'sacred cloth' shows piety of the maker and the wearer.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제24권1호
• /
• pp.67-78
• /
• 2016

The Indonesian population is estimated at 250 million and ranked as the world's fourth-largest. It is also one of the world's largest Muslim nations. Seventy percent of the population of Indonesia is young consumers in their 20s and 30s. In additions, Indonesian consumers have recently developed a great interest in fashion in general and Korean fashion in particular. This paper addresses issues related to young Indonesian consumers' clothing behavior in terms of clothing image, clothing style, body image, clothing and attitudes toward Korean fashion brands. The survey method was used as a primary research instrument. All measurements were adapted from the existing scales from previous studies. A total of 172 questionnaires were used for the final statistical analysis. Empirical results showed that Indonesian consumers' preferences regarding clothing image were new, casual, humorous, futuristic, soft, interesting and active. In terms of style, Indonesian consumers scored high in their preferences of casual and classic styles. With regard to body image, Indonesian consumers have significant concern for their appearance and body, but at the same time they are more satisfied with their body shape. More than half of the respondents had experience in purchasing Korean fashion products. Indonesian consumers recognized the clothing image of Korean fashion brands as new, futuristic, and hi-tech. Furthermore, they perceive the clothing style of Korean fashion brands as casual, feminine, and sexy. Korean fashion brand purchase intension was significantly influenced by recognition and preference of Korean fashion brand.

• 복식
• /
• 제66권7호
• /
• pp.34-49
• /
• 2016

The ancient 'sacred cloths' of Indonesia have diverse characteristics. The purpose of this study is to analyze the characteristics of ancient Indonesian textiles, focusing on 'sacred cloths.' The research is divided into two parts. The first part analyzes the creation period, religious importance, region where the cloths are found, and color of the 'sacred cloths.' The second part focuses on the textile-making techniques and the ritual patterns of the 'sacred cloths.' This research is the second paper. This research analyzes 225 Indonesian sacred cloth examples chosen for their religious function in ceremony, and reviews 10 books and 8 research papers. Field research was done in the Museum of Bali, the Indonesian Museum of Textiles, and nine weaving production houses in eastern Bali. Indonesian sacred cloths express their cultural philosophy and function through production techniques, colors, techniques, and visual patterns. The 'sacred cloth'-making techniques are classified as Batik, Prada, and Ikat. The regions that contribute to the textile production determine what patterns show up on the cloths. Sumatran patterns are philosophical, lavish, and prestigious. Bornean patterns are barbaric and prestigious. Balinese patterns are complex, decorative, warm, festive, calm, and aristocratic. Javanese patterns are symbolic and repetitive. Celebes patterns are artistic and simple. Nusa Tenggara patterns are symbolic and narrative. The forms shown on the textiles, whether geometric, human and animal, natural objects, or abstract patterns, determine how to classify the varied patterns. As a result, ancient Indonesian sacred cloths characteristics portray Indonesian identity as Bhinneka Tunggal Ika(Unity in Diversity).

• 복식
• /
• 제62권7호
• /
• pp.117-132
• /
• 2012

This study explored public awareness and donning practices of traditional and religious dresses among Indonesian Muslim. The relevant literature was reviewed first, and in-depth interviews and survey were followed to achieve the purpose of the study. Sarung and Kain Panjang are the most representative unisex traditional clothing of Indonesia. Traditional male dresses include Kemeja Batik, Beskap, Peci(Kopiah) and Blangkon. Traditional female dresses include Kebaya, Baju Kurung, Baju Bodo, Kemben, Rok Batik and Slendang. Baju Koko, Sarung and Peci(Kopiah) are the most well-known Muslim male dress items. Muslim female dresses are more diverse than men's. For traditional and religious dresses, which were identified from literature study, public awareness and donning practices were examined with survey data. Indonesian people consider Kebaya, Sarung, and Batik as the most important traditional dresses which convey national identity. Peci(Kopiah), Baju koko, and Jilbab(Kerudung) are highly mentioned as the representatives of Muslim dresses. Indonesian Muslims report that they own these representative dresses commonly. Peci and Sarung are included both in religious and traditional dresses, demonstrating that the two items are the representative crossovers of their religion and the tradition of the country. For both traditional and Muslim dresses, Indonesian people think that aesthetics and traditional values are more relevant than practical value. Lastly, it is found that traditional dresses are parts of the daily wear of Indonesian people from the fact that they wear traditional dresses more than once a week.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제20권3호
• /
• pp.392-402
• /
• 2012

The norm for everyday costume in India and Indonesia had consisted of either draped garments or loincloths. However, as the Islamic values spread in these countries various tailored clothes began to be worn. In order to study this spread of tailored clothes, the researcher first looked at the historical background which was the origin of Islamic costumes and its unique traits through the works of literature. Based on these findings, the researcher tried to identify the Islamic elements in the costumes of India and Indonesia. The researcher put forward the following conclusion: In India, people began to wear Islamic costumes after the establishment of Mughul Empire (1526~1857) in the 16th century, despite the Islamic invasion in the early 8th century. The pants that the ruling class of Islam wore such as shalwar, churidar and coats in the style of kaftan as well as turban spread quickly throughout the nation and now they are important part of Indian traditional costumes. Also in Indonesia, people began to wear tailored clothes as they accepted Islamic faith. The Indonesian costumes which exposed the upper body part may have been suitable for the climate but it was inappropriate according to the Islamic precepts. The religious beliefs led to the creation of the unique Indonesian sarong, wraps such as kain panjang and a new type of traditional costumes that combined the elements of pants or tunic from the Islamic culture.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제21권3호
• /
• pp.457-465
• /
• 2013

It's been a common knowledge that Indonesia has a multicultural nature which produces a rich civilization, traditional textiles is one of the examples. Indonesian textile is one of the earlier/oldest artefacts being studied. The wide range of its selections also a proof that Indonesia already had an advanced culture. In Indonesia, textile isn't just a mere cloth; it also used to refer your social statuses, a ritual complements aspect, and many other symbolic purposes. Celebes textiles just a small example how rich this country culture is. The purpose of this study was to convince people that Indonesian traditional textile has a potential to stand in same ground with any modern textile produced around the world.