• 한국의류학회지
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• 제24권5호
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• pp.619-627
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• 2000

Historically, dyed textiles were symbols of status and, because of their expense, reserved only for people of wealth and specalist, Early dye sources probably included plant, animal and mineral extracts. As synthetic dyes have been developed, beginning with synthetic indigo in 1897, reliance on natural dye sources diminished. But renewed interest in natural dyes is fueled by a pro-environment consumer aware of the ecological liabilities of the dye industry. Han Jee was imported from China where it was influenced to period of the three kingdoms(Silla, Baekje, Kokuryo). After that, Han Jee was used for paper in old Korea for long thime before paper was came with civilization. In this paper, dyeing of Han Jee with loess were investigated according to dyeing temperature, dyeing time, loess concentration, and effects of additives. As a reuslts, λmax of Han Jee dyed by loess was 710nm. ΔE values of Han Jee increased by loess concentration, dyeing time, dyeing temperature. Dyeing with additives treatment increased dyeability. Especially, Han Jee treated with aluminium acetate shows the largest dyeability of the Han Jee. The Han Jee dyed loess had very good lightfastness.

• 한국자원식물학회지
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• 제18권3호
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• pp.417-423
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• 2005

쪽 생즙액의 염색조건에 따른 견직물의 염색성을 조사하기 위해 염액온도, 염색시간, 염액농도 염액의 pH, 매염제를 달리하여 견직물을 염색하였다. 염액의 온도에 따른 견직물의 표면색은 온도가 낮을수록 b값이 작아져 $-5^{\circ}C$와 상온에서는 녹색(G) 계열로, $40^{\circ}C$ 이상에서는 녹황색(GY) 계열로 발색되었으며, 염착농도는 온도가 높을수록 높았다. 염색시간은 표면색에 영향을 미치지 않았으나 염색시간이 길수록 염착농도는 증가하였다. 염액농도를 $1\%,\;2\%,\;3\%,\;4\%$로 조정하여 견직물을 염색했을 때는 청록색(BG) 계열로 발색되었으나 $5\%$에서는 B계열로 발색되었고, 염착농도는 염액의 농도가 높을수록 증가하였다. 염액의 pH에 따른 견직물의 표면색은 pH 7이하에서는 G계열을, pH 8에서는 녹황색(GY)으로, pH 9에서는 황적색(YR) 계열을 나타냈다. 염착농도는 pH가 높을수록 낮아졌다. 매염처리는 견직물의 표면색에 영향을 미쳤으며, 염착농도도 증가시켰다.

• 한국복식학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국복식학회 2004년도 The 21st International Costume Congress
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• pp.244-251
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• 2004

• 한국염색가공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국염색가공학회 2008년도 제39차 학술발표회
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• pp.87-88
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• 2008

전통 쪽 염색과정을 단순화하여 기존의 환원과 발생이 동시에 이루어지는 공정조건을 다룬다.

• 한국염색가공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국염색가공학회 2009년도 제41차 학술발표회
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• pp.39-40
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• 2009

• 복식문화연구
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.431-440
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• 2016

The purpose of this research is to revive the colors of combination dyeing and mixed dyeing with natural dyestuffs. The fabrics used were cotton and rayon. The natural dyestuffs used in this research were indigo, Phellodendron amurense, and Caesalpinia sappan. The effects of combination dyeing were as follows. First, all samples showed deeper colors. Second, according to the results of the surface K/S measurement, while the surface K/S of cotton was over 15, that of rayon was over 17. Third, the results of the light fastness measurement showed the superiority (by over grade 4) of all the samples, except in the case of rayon fiber sample no. 6 (which had been pre-dyed with indigo five times before being dyed with P. amurense once and then being dyed with C. sappan once). In the color fastness to washing measurement, all fibers showed superiority (by over grade 3~4). In addition, the color fastness to dry cleaning of all fibers was satisfactory or excellent (by over grade 3). Fourth, according to the results of the tensile strength measurement, it tended to decrease in the case of cotton and increase in the case of rayon. Fifth, the results of the density measurement showed that the density of cotton decreased by about 15~20% in the case of warp and 10% in the case of weft for all samples. The density of rayon decreased 20% in the case of warp for all samples and increased 30% in the case of weft for all samples.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제17권3호
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• pp.501-509
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• 2008

This research intends to help local small fashion industry to outgrow its limitation, preserving and developing environment-friendly dyeing tradition in Jeju renowned for persimmon juice dyeing. The study, then, aims to develop eco-friendly golf-wear designs, with maximizing advantages of natural dyeing (with persimmon juice, indigo plant, gallnut, cochineal, turmeric, and loess) such as rot-proofness, bacteria-proofness, stench-proofness and block of ultraviolet rays. The results are as follows: first, natural fabrics such as muslin(cotton 100%), linen(linen 100%) and spandex(mixed cotton 98%, polyurethane 2%) were developed into eco-friendly ones colored with various natural dye sources. Second, four kinds of golf-wear design were developed to stand out golf wear's natural image, focused on classic, neo-minimal style. The characteristic details and design elements of sportswear were added to basic golf wear design. Therefore, it is hopeful that those designs of naturally dyed golf wear for women could be utilized for other various purposes in the future.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제5권1호
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• pp.59-63
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• 2003

This study aims at developing of textile design expressed not only Korean natural image but also modern sensibility using fabrics dyed by tie dyeing with various natural dyes. And it attempts to practicality of high value-added goods revived traditional beauty. With the aqueous extract of various natural dyes, i.e., indigo, amur cock tree, onion's peel, citrus peel, mugwort, gromwell, sappan wood silk fabrics dyed by tie dyeing. Also various color changes were examined by mordants, i.e., aluminium sulfate, cupric acetate mono hydrate, ferrous chloride. With these fabrics, I made works using the techniques of applique, mola, fabric's connection and weaving. I think the developed textile design gave expression to natural image of Korean nation.

• 한국감성과학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국감성과학회 2009년도 춘계학술대회
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• pp.227-230
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• 2009

This study was aimed to determine color sensibility factors for naturally dyed fabrics and to investigate their relationship with color variables such as hue and tone and dyes. Two hundreds different fabric colors prepared by a variety of natural dyeing were subjectively evaluated by color experts, which resulted in three color sensibility factors including 'Pleasant', 'Comfort', and 'Modem'. Among hues, Yellowish shade by natural dyeing was found as more pleasant and more comfort than any others. Among main tones for natural dyeing, g(grayish) and ltg(light grayish) were more felt in 'Comfort' whereas d(dull) more in 'Pleasant'. As for dyes, Gardenia Blue, Gardenia Yellow, and Anato tended to give feelings of 'Pleasant' whereas Raw Indigo and Loess did 'Comfort'.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제37권6호
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• pp.827-836
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• 2013

Indigotin, indirubin, berberine, palmatine, alizarin, and purpurin are major pigments of indigo plant, Phellodendron bark, and madder. The six pigments were examined using the HPLC-DAD-MS instrument for the purpose of the simultaneous detection of the pigments in a single sample run. The HPLC-DAD-MS method examined the individual pigment solutions in DMSO, a solution containing 6 pigments, and the DMSO extract of the silk dyed with a dye solution of 5 pigments excluding indirubin. The retention times of the HPLC chromatograms, ${\lambda}_{max}$ of the uv-vis absorption bands in the DAD analyses, and the molecular ions detected for the compound peaks in the MSD analyses were consistent throughout the analyses of individual pigment solutions, mixed pigment solutions, and dye extracted from silk dyeing. The developed instrumental method of the simultaneous detection of six pigments can identify dye in an exhumed textile if the textile is dyed using any one (or multiple) pigments of indigo, Phellodendron bark, or madder plant.