• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.54 no.1
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• pp.52-69
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• 2021

The transcriptions of Buddhist sutra in the Goryeo Dynasty are more elaborate and splendid than those of any other period and occupy a very important position in Korean bibliography. Among them, the transcriptions made on indigo paper show decorative features that represent the dignity and quality that nobles would have preferred. Particularly, during the Goryeo Dynasty, a large number of transcriptions were made on indigo paper, often in hand-scrolled and folded forms. If flexibility was not guaranteed, the hand-scrolled form caused inconvenience and damage when handling the transcription because of the structural limitations of the material that is rolled up and opened. It was possible to overcome these shortcomings by changing from the hand-scrolled to the folded form to obtain convenience and structural stability. The folded form of the transcription utilizes the same principle as the folding screen, so it is a structure that can be folded and unfolded, and it is made by connecting parts at regularly spaced intervals. No matter how small the transcription is, if it is made of thin paper, it is difficult to handle it and to maintain its shape and structure. For this reason, the folded transcription was usually made of thick paper to support the structure, and the cover was made thicker than the inner part to protect the contents. In other words, the forded form was generally manufactured to suit the characteristics of maintaining strength by making the paper thick. Because a large amount of indigo paper was needed to make this type of transcription, it is assumed that there were craftsmen who were in charge only of dark dyeing the papers. Usually, paper dyeing requires much more dye than silk dyeing, and dyeing dozens of times would be required to obtain the deep indigo color of the base of the transcription of Buddhist sutra in the Goryeo Dynasty. Unfortunately, there is no record of the Goryeo Dynasty's indigo blue paper manufacturing technique, and the craftsmen who made indigo paper no longer remain, so no one knows the exact method of making indigo paper. Recently, Hanji artisans, natural dyers, and conservators attempted to restore the Goryeo Dynasty's indigo paper, but the texture and deep colors found in the relics could not be reproduced. This study introduces the process of restoring indigo paper in the Goryeo Dynasty through collaboration between dyeing artisans, Hanji artisans, and conservators for conservation of the transcription of Buddhist sutra in the late Goryeo dynasty, yielding a suggested method of making indigo paper.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.26 no.4
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• pp.100-111
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• 2022

After the corona pandemic, when consumers choose clothes, the issue of sustainability has become a more important selection criterion. The eco-friendly functional fiber used in the study is a smartcell, which has functions such as UV protection, decomposition of harmful substances, deodorization, antibacterial and biodegradation. This eco-friendly functional fiber was dyed using five kinds of natural dyes to examine the color change according to dyeability and dyeing conditions. As natural dyes, gardenia, turmeric, sappan wood, lac, and indigo were used. For comparison with smartcell, rayon, a cellulose regenerated fiber, and wool fiber, a protein fiber, were dyed under the same conditions to compare dyeability and color. The study results are as follows. It was found that smartcell had superior dyeability compared to rayon and wool in gardenia dye and showed lower dyeability than wool when dyeing turmeric, sappan wood, and lac dyes, but showed superior or similar dyeability than rayon. In case of indigo dyeing, the dyeability of smartcell was the best when dyed once, but it was found that smartcell had a lower effect on repeated dyeing compared to wool or rayon. Therefore, smartcell has superior dyeability compared to rayon fiber in gardenia, turmeric, sappan wood, and lac dyeing, and in case of indigo dyeing, it is suitable for light dyeing. When smartcell is produced as textile fashion products, natural dyeing is actively introduced and commercialized, and it is hoped that this study can be a reference material.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.23-32
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• 2009

The objective of this study is to investigate the efficacy of leaf powder colorants as substitutes for traditional indigo dyeing. Leaf powder colorants were prepared by hot air($50^{\circ}C$) and room temperanrre($25^{\circ}C$) drying methods from fresh leaves. The presence of indigo in the leaf powder colorants was confirmed by UV/Visible absorption spectra. All the powder colorants showed broad absorption at 602 nm as same as synthetic indigo. Dyeing was done by reduction method with sodium hydrosulfite and sodium hydroxide. Leaf powder colorants produced blue color on silk fabrics, showing similar color to the one dyed traditionally with fresh juice extract. The powder colorants prepared at room temperature drying were more stable for long term storage than that prepared by hot air drying. Thus, the powder colorants prepared by room temperature drying was reduced and dyed in one-step process without sodium hydroxide in the dyebath for further investigate dyeing properties. K/S value of the fabric dyed without sodium hydroxide was much higher than one dyed with sodium hydroxide. Regardless of the addition of sodium hydroxide, rubbing fastness was fairly good showing above 4 rating. Fastness to dry cleaning and light of the fabrics dyed without sodium hydroxide were mote higher than that dyed in alkaline condition.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.365-374
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• 2013

The purposes of this study were to evaluate the color characteristics and color sensibility of mulberry/cotton blended fabrics dyed with indigo, the natural dye, and analyze effects of them on color preferences. The values of CIE $L^*$, $a^*$, $b^*$ $C^*$, h were calculated for the color characteristics of indigo-dyed fabrics, and their hue, value, and chroma were calculated according to the Munsell color system. Fifty male and female college students evaluated the color sensibility of nine types fabrics dyed with indigo on a seven-point scale. The data were analyzed by descriptive statistics, factor analysis, Kruscal-Wallis test, correlation analysis, and regression analysis. The mulberry/cotton blended fabrics naturally dyed with indigo showed the characteristics of PB color tones, low value, and low chroma. The color sensibilities of fabrics dyed with indigo were classified into four factors: 'classic', 'sporty', 'elegant' and 'natural'. There were significant differences according to the fibers and the repeating times of dyeing in the color sensibility for the fabrics. Cotton fabrics were evaluated to be more classic, sporty, elegant, and natural than the mulberry/cotton blended fabrics, and the deeper the color, the more classic, sporty, and elegant the fabric was evaluated. The students preferred the indigo dyed fabrics which have more classic, sporty, and natural sensibility. There were significant relationships between the color sensibilities and colorimetric properties of the fabrics dyed with indigo. The color preferences of the dyed fabrics with indigo were found to be influenced by the 'classic', 'sporty', 'natural' of color sensibility.

• Journal of the Korean Wood Science and Technology
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• v.48 no.2
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• pp.154-165
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• 2020

To assign the functionality of the regenerated fiber from waste MDF(wMDF) made of pitch pine, we examined the dyeing characteristics of natural dyes, sappan wood as a polychromatic natural red series, monochromatic gardenia as a yellow series, and indigo blue series. For nonemordanting dye, the colors of regenerated fiber dyed by sappan wood and gardenia were reddish yellow (YR) and yellow (Y) series, respectively, and dyeing conditions were appropriate a 30 ~ 50 g/L of dyeing materials at 60 ℃ for 60minutes of dyeing time. We obtained regenerated woody dyed fibers (Re-WDF), YR to the red (R) series by premordanting with Al and Cu mordant for sappan wood and the purplish red (RP) series by Fe premordanting. In the case of gardenia, only Y series colors were developed in nonemordanting dye or all three mordants. Indigo dye produced Re-WDF with greenish yellow (GY) tone at 1%, green (G) tone at 3%, and blue (B) tone at 5% concentration or more. Re-WDF with indigo showed the best light fastness followed by sappan wood and gardenia. In particular, the light fastness of Re-WDF with gardenia was very poor. The light fastness was somewhat improved by premordanting(Fe>Cu>Al) both sappan wood and gardenia dyes.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.192-201
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• 2013

This study explores the culture surrounding the dyeing of royal garments in the late Joseon Dynasty. The findings of this study are as follows. First, several dyes were used to color royal garments, such as jicho, honghwa, danmok, simhwang, sambo, goehwa, chija, and namjong. Mordants such as maesil, hwanghoemok, yeohoe, and baekban were also used with the dyes. Second, the Sangeuiwon (尙衣院) was the department in charge of the purchasing of dyes and the entire dyeing practice. It was the Seonhyecheong (宣惠廳) and the Hojo (戶曹) who provided revenue to the Sangeuiwon through a wongong, regular tribute, and a bokjeong (supplementary tribute). Additionally, additional dyes, if found to be insufficient, could be provided by the Hojo. Every year the Hojo provided jicho, honghwa, and danmok to the Sangeuiwon, and sometimes imported namjong from China. Third, royal garments were, in most cases, dyed by the Sangeuiwon's professional dyers and court ladies belonging to the sewing department in each palace. Naenongpo (內農圃) eunuchs were in charge of the indigo crops of each palace. Finally, more dye was used in royal garments than in the clothes of commoners to obtain a deeper shade of color. In addition, dyers tried to achieve a clear and vivid tone in their garments. Silk which absorbed color relatively easily, was dyed inside the palace using an ice vat filled with fresh indigo leaves; however, cotton was difficult to dye and was sent to professional indigo dyers outside the palace.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.38 no.1
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• pp.9-18
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• 2021

This study was aimed to investigate the effects of hair dyeing and changes of hair quality by the application of indigo dye. Methods: Indigo dye was used after water bath. After application of the dye to healthy and bleached hair samples, they were treated with heat and remained naturally by different times. Each sample was measured before and after the application and compared for the analysis. To investigate the effects of dyeing, L⁎, a⁎, and b⁎ values and bleaching degree were measured using by color-difference meter. To understand the changes of hair quality, absorbance and gloss were measured using by tensile strength and methylene blue. Results: Upon the results of dyeing, all the samples showed the significant dyeing effects before and after the application in terms of L⁎, a⁎, and b⁎ values. With respect to the bleaching effects, it showed the greatest change on Day 1 and did not show any changes from Day 3. For the measurement of tensile strength, mean values of all the samples were increased. However, the results were not significant, statistically, demonstrating no change of hair quality. No statistically significant results were found in the samples except healthy 7L(3) sample upon the absorbance results using methylene blue. Gloss of samples was changed upon the statistical analysis results. Conclusion: Indigo dye showed the hair dyeing effects, significantly, while gloss was changed and tensile strength and absorbance were not changed in terms of hair quality. Further studies are required on the processing with a variety of dyes and on the measurements for reliability and objectivity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.7
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• pp.1205-1219
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• 2010

This study analyzes the conditions and products of internet shopping malls that sell natural dyeing products. In this study, 98 natural dyeing internet shopping malls were selected. The results of this study are as follows. The locations of the internet shopping malls were Gyeonggi-do, Seoul, Jeollanam-do, Gyeongsangbuk-do, Gwang-ju (city), Daegu (city), Busan (city), Gyeongsangnam-do, and Jeju-do. The most frequent dyes of the natural dyeing products were loess, followed by charcoal, indigo, and persimmon. Indigo was most frequently used in Seoul, with loess and charcoal most frequent in Gyeonggi-do. Persimmon, indigo, loess, and charcoal were mainly used in Jeollanam-do, with persimmon and loess in the Gyeongsangbuk-do, and persimmon in Jeju-do. The highest ordered product categories were accessories, followed by adult clothing, interior decoration products, and bedding. The most frequent products were bedclothes, followed by scarves, female shirts, blouses, pillows, female jackets, and vests. Regarding the price of products, 150,000-200,000 won was the highest for the Saenghwal Hanbok, with 10,000-30,000 won for underwear, 30,000-60,000 won for accessories, and 100,000-150,000 won for bedding. Concerning product information, 58.2% of internet shopping malls offer the product size and almost half of them did not show the properties or directions for handling the product. Based on the research results, the problems of the conditions and products of natural dyeing internet shopping mall were derived. The results show that the natural dyes of internet shopping malls lacked regional symbolism, the products were not specialized, and product information was not fully offered to consumers. To solve these problems, the strategies for marketing the promotion of the natural dyeing internet shopping mall were, ‘Using natural dyes from local resources’, ‘Market oriented and specialized item design’, and ‘Offer right product information’.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.26 no.3
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• pp.87-97
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• 2022

This study investigated the dyeability and color change of the natural dyes of SeaCell, a biodegradable functional fiber that is permanently added to cellulose fibers with natural additives extracted from seaweeds. The natural dyes used in the study are five dyes. Gardenia and turmeric, which are yellow-based natural dyes, Sappan wood and Lac, which are red-based natural dyes, and Indigo, a blue-based natural dye, were selected. The dyeability and color change according to the change of the mordant conditions and the number of times of dyeing were investigated. In addition, the dyeing properties and colors of cotton and silk fibers were compared under the same dyeing conditions as SeaCell. The study results are as follows. It was found that SeaCell had lower dyeing properties than silk, a protein fiber, in gardenia, sappan wood, and lac dyes, but had higher dyeing properties than cotton with the same cellulose component as SeaCell fibers. In the case of turmeric, it showed higher dyeing properties than cotton except for the no mordant condition. In the case of Indigo dye, SeaCell shows the best dyeability, indicating that it is a very suitable fiber for Indigo dyeing. As sustainable functional fibers are continuously developed in the future, natural dyes that are environmentally friendly and human-friendly are actively introduced and commercialized, and it is expected that they can be used as reference materials.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.12
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• pp.1963-1970
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• 2008

Natural indigo dye in powder form was prepared by modifying traditional Niram method, using $Ca(OH)_2$ instead of baked oyster powder for precipitating indigo dye. The prepared dye was applied to dyeing Tencel fabrics to investigate the effect of experimental conditions for the optimization of dyeing process. The indigo dye powder contained 15.2%(w/w) of indigo content and 0.757%(w/w) of indirubin content on the basis of HPLC analysis. Maximum dye uptake was obtained at $60^{\circ}C$ for 20min. Almost saturated dye uptake was obtained at 2g/L of sodium hydrosulfite concentration up to 4g/L of indigo dye and then slowly increased for further increase of sodium hydrosulfite. Whereas at higher indigo dye concentration(8g/L) more than 3g/L of reducing agent concentration was required for obtaining the maximum dye uptake. At the same indigo dye and reducing agent concentration, K/S value of the sample dyed without sodium hydroxide(pH 5.75) was 15.19, much higher than one dyed in alkaline condition(K/S 5.76). There was no difference in colorfastness ratings among samples with different color strength. However, more fading was occurred for the sample with low color strength.