• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.31 no.4
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• pp.249-257
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• 2019

Baker's yeast(Saccharomyces cerevisiae) was used as a biocatalyst for eco-friendly indigo dyeing and the reducing power of yeast according to the alkaline solution type was compared. NaOH solution, lye, and buffer solution were used as alkaline solutions. The reducing power(K/S value, oxidation/reduction potential(ORP), pH) was monitored according to the elapsed time including the initiation of reduction, peak reduction, and the end of reduction. In all alkaline solutions, it was confirmed that yeast can be used reducing agent in indigo reduction dyeing. The pH stability and reducing power of buffer solution was better than that of NaOH alone. Although, pH and ORP stability of the reduction bath in lye were better than that of buffer solution, K/S value in buffer solution was higher compared to lye. The reducing power was different depending on the starting pH of the dye bath, and it was better when starting at pH 10.70 than at pH 11.30. Fastnesses to washing, rubbing, and light were relatively good with above rating 4. There was no significant difference in colorfastness depending on the type of alkaline solutions.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.40 no.1
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• pp.78-85
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• 1998

Colorants were prepared by extraction of natural indigo which was harvested just in the blooming season(in the late of July). 100 g of fresh leaves soaking in 1 ιwater was kept at 3$0^{\circ}C$, 30 hours. A solution of 3g/l calcium hydroxide was added into it to precipitate dye substance and it was freezing-dried into powder form. The fermentation and dyeing conditions were investigated. The results obtained are summarized as follows; K/S value of dyed silk fabrics of fermentation conditions was higher at 95$^{\circ}C$ for 20 min. than at 4$0^{\circ}C$ for 20 hours. Furthermore, K/S value of dyed silk fabric was raised by the addition of 5g/l of glucose and 5g/l of NaOH. K/S value of dyed silk fabric was raised by the addition of 5g/l of glucose and 5g/l of NaOH. K/S value increased as extending of dyeing time when dyed till 2 hours at 3$0^{\circ}C$. K/S value decreased in order of 3$0^{\circ}C$, 4$0^{\circ}C$ and 5$0^{\circ}C$, at the various dyeing temperatures and dyeing concentrations, and colour fastness ranged from 4 to 5 grade in terms of washing, perspiration and light fastness.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.35 no.4
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• pp.189-195
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• 2023

In this study, as one of the eco-friendly dyeing methods, indigo, Phellodendron amurense and Caeasapinia sappan were complexed dyed on cotton fabric. For complexed dyeing, the cotton that was pre-dyed 5 times with indigo was dyed 1 ~ 2 times repeatedly with Phellodendron amurense and Caeasapinia sappan. Then the color, tensile strength, density, and color fastness of complexed dyed sample were analyzed and the following analysis results could be obtained. As a result of color difference measurement, the L* value was 22.7 in the sample in which the cotton was dyed 5 times and then the Phellodendron amurense was dyed 1 time, and the K/S value was 15 or higher in all samples. As a result of measuring the strength, cotton fabrics tended to have a slight decrease in tensile strength when complexed dyeing. As a result of measuring the density, the density decreased by 15 ~ 20% in all samples at the warp and increased by 20 ~ 30% in the weft due to the complexed dyeing of cotton fabric. Moreover, the fastness to washing and drycleaning showed good results of 2 ~ 3 or higher, and the light fastness was 4 or higher.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.143-154
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• 2018

This study was performed in order to suggest useful data for color planning of eco-friendly and sensible fashion products. Silk fabrics were dyed in combination with natural indigo and Japanese pagoda tree and were treated with four kinds of mordants after combination dyeing. Then, their colorimetric properties were evaluated. From these composite-dyed silk fabrics, color sensibilities and color preferences of green yellow (GY) color were evaluated among the female university students, and thus, the influences of colorimetric properties and color sensibilities on color preferences were analyzed. When the silk fabrics were dyed in the combination of natural indigo and Japanese pagoda tree and were treated without mordants, they turned green color when indigo 10 g/L was used, and blue-green when indigo 20 g/L was added. And when they were dyed in combination of natural indigo and Japanese pagoda tree and were treated with four kind of mordants after combination dyeing, they turned GY color in almost all cases. The color sensibilities of the GY silk fabrics with the combination dyeing of indigo and Japanese pagoda tree, were classified into three factors: pleasantness, gracefulness, and comfort. Color sensibility factors showed significant differences according to the concentration of indigo and the kinds of mordants. There were almost significant relationships between colorimetric properties and color sensibilities factors of compositely dyed GY silk fabrics. The color preferences of the GY fabrics, which were dyed in the combination of using natural indigo and Japanese pagoda tree and four kinds of mordants, were found to be predicted by the color sensibility in a regression model.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.5
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• pp.51-61
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• 2015

This study examines the types and forms of underwear worn during the Joseon Dynasty period, and the purpose of this study is to apply the Joseon underwear design elements into designs of modern clothes, and make clothes that have practical use. In addition, it examines natural dyeing in the production of works, using a dye that contains tannin to increase color fastness. This study, first, looked into the types of female underwear during the late-Joseon Dynasty period through literature research and literature study. Second, the study chose artificial silk material (rayon), which was applied with dye containing tannin, and then with indigo (Jjok) and a different dye. Also, the study tested color fastness by washing the material, and rubbing fastness was tested if the material was either dyed with indigo. if it was dyed first with dye stuff containing tannin, and then with indigo dyeing color. Third, using the underwear types in the Joseon Dynasty period, the study developed and produced a dress, a skirt and pants that could be worn in modern life on a daily basis by applying Mujigi-chima (underwearskirt), Dan-sokgot (slip), Salchang-gojaengi (loosedrawers) and Sok-baji (bloomers) forms. Dresses applying underwear skirt using naturally-dyed artificial silk, dresses applying Salchang-gojaengi, dresses applying Dan-sokgot, skirt without a crotch designed in the form of pant swith an open crotch, and pant skirt with a crotch-applying pants with an open crotch were produced. In the future, hopefully, various studies of collaborations of Korean traditional clothing, and natural dyeing will continue to kee) the tradition alive.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.26 no.3
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• pp.237-241
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• 2014

The aim of this study is to develop an eco-friendly reduction process of indigo as an alternative choice. Hansenula misumaiensis was used and their reducing activity toward synthetic indigo as well as natural indigo was estimated by dyeing test in terms of indigo dye uptake. The changes in K/S value and pH were monitored on the time-based measurements. Also, reduction duration was evaluated. On the basis of the results described in this study, it was confirmed that Hansenula misumaiensis reduced indigo. Reducing power of Hansenula misumaiensis reached to maximum in two days. It can be possible to develop eco-friendly process of indigo reduction using Hansenula misumaiensis by the optimization of strain culture conditions and the optimization of reduction conditions.

• KSBB Journal
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• v.28 no.5
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• pp.295-302
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• 2013

Indigo is utilized in various industries including textile dyeing, cosmetics, printing and medicinal products and its reduced form, leuco-indigo, is mainly used in these process. Chemical reducing agent (sodium dithionite, sodium sulfide, etc.) is preferred to use for the formation of leucoindigo in industry. In traditional indigo fermentation process, microorganisms can participate in the reduction of indigo and thus it has been known to reduce environmental pollution and noxious byproducts. However, in fermentation method using microorganisms it is difficult to standardize large scale production process due to low yield and reproducibility. In this study, we attempted to develop the indigo reduction process using microbial flora which was isolated from naturally fermented indigo vat or deduced by metagenomic approach. From the results of library analyses of PCR-amplified 16S rRNA genes from the traditional indigo fermentation vat sample (metagenome), it was confirmed that Alkalibacteriums (71%) was distinctly dominant in population. Some strains were identified after confirming that they become pure culture in nutrient media modified slightly. Four strains were separated in this process and each strain showed obvious reducing ability toward indigo in dyeing test. It is expected that the analyzed results will provide important data for standardizing the natural fermentation of indigo and investigating the mechanism of indigo reduction.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.10-18
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• 2009

Dyeing process of the natural indigo powder onto ramie and silk fabrics was investigated by using glucose and calcium hydroxide as a reducing system. Effect of reduction and dyeing conditions such as temperature and time of reduction/dyeing, and concentrations of glucose and calcium hydroxide on the dyeing process were explored. Indigo powder was obtained by drying the conventional niram paste in an oven at $50^{\circ}C$. Color strength of the dyed fabrics was evaluated by K/S value measured at the wavelength of maximum absorption(${\lamda}$max). Munsell color coordinates(H V/C) were used to compare fabric colors of ramie and silk. Ramie fabric showed purple-blue color for all the temperature and time. On the contrary, silk fabric showed wide range of color including brown, brown-green, green at the different temperature. With the increase of K/S value, the coordinate of value(lightness) decreased for both of ramie and silk fabrics. The coordinate of hue(shade) changed drastically with the increase of K/S value for silk fabric, compared with that of ramie fabric which showed nearly constant value at the whole range of K/S value. Optimum concentrations of calcium hydroxide were for 6 g/L for ramie and 4 g/L for silk at $60^{\circ}C$ and 50 min. K/S value increased with the indigo concentration. Maximum K/S value was shown at $10{\sim}12$ g/L of glucose concentration. For both of ramie and silk fabrics, the colorfastness of washing and light was lower than that of rubbing. All the colorfastness values were improved with the increase of color strength.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.13 no.5
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• pp.41-41
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• 2001

In this study, synthetic fiber fabrics such as polyester, nylon 6, acrylic and acetate were dyed with indigoid vat dye. The effects of the composition of alkaline reduction, dyeing time and dyeing temperature on color strength and color fastness of the fabrics were investigated. Also the color fastnesses to wash and light of the dyed fabrics were studied. In dyeing of polyester, nylon, acrylic and acetate fiber fabrics with indigo vat dyes, it appears that these fabrics have high values of K/S up to Ig/L of sodium hydroxide and 6g/L of reducing agent. Indigo vat dyeing for synthetic fiber fabrics was verb fast, and lead to dyeing equilibrium within twenty minutes. The K/S values of dyed fabrics did not changed in dye concentration more than 10% o.w.f.. Synthetic fiber fabrics dyed with indigoid dyes had bad light fastness.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.13 no.5
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• pp.329-335
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• 2001

In this study, synthetic fiber fabrics such as polyester, nylon 6, acrylic and acetate were dyed with indigoid vat dye. The effects of the composition of alkaline reduction, dyeing time and dyeing temperature on color strength and color fastness of the fabrics were investigated. Also the color fastnesses to wash and light of the dyed fabrics were studied. In dyeing of polyester, nylon, acrylic and acetate fiber fabrics with indigo vat dyes, it appears that these fabrics have high values of K/S up to Ig/L of sodium hydroxide and 6g/L of reducing agent. Indigo vat dyeing for synthetic fiber fabrics was verb fast, and lead to dyeing equilibrium within twenty minutes. The K/S values of dyed fabrics did not changed in dye concentration more than 10% o.w.f.. Synthetic fiber fabrics dyed with indigoid dyes had bad light fastness.