• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.669-676
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• 2012

This study aims to compare the properties of natural dye stuffs, such as color, dyeability, fastness, and marketability, to analyze the differences noted by expert groups regarding the properties of the stuffs, and to make a positioning of the stuffs. A survey of experts in academia, business, and the art of natural dyeing was conducted, with an evaluation of 23 types of the stuff's properties. There is a correlation between the properties of the stuffs, and evaluating dye stuffs differs according to the group to which it belongs. X-axis relates to color and Y-axis refers to fastness in the positioning of the stuff. There are different relationships between properties according to their group. Color is significantly associated with marketability in art experts however, fastness is closely connected with marketability in business. The stuffs can be divided into five clusters. Cluster I includes indigo and persimmon, and is marked by excellent color, dyeability, fastness, and marketability, Cluster II contains safflower and sappan wood, which are excellent colors, yet suffer from low marketability on account of their medium to low fastness. Cluster III includes red, purple, and brown dyes, and onion and rhubarb, and has medium properties. Cluster IV is mugwort and yellow dyes, except onion and rhubarb, and features low properties. Cluster V is loess, featuring medium color and low fastness.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.8
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• pp.71-79
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• 2007

The Conservation Science Team at National Museum of Korea has Reproduced the silk wrapper that was used the sarira reliquary found from Pagoda in the Bonginsa, in order to use it in the process of alternating the relics on display in the Hangeul(the Korean language) of the Historical Gallery. Silk fabric of the same texture as the original was used for reproduction. As for the process of dyeing silk fabric, fermented Indigo deposits was used for bluish color, while fruits of the alder trees were used to express the parts that have been faded into yellowish. The Korean characters(court style hangeul) written on the wrapper have been replicated through the use of Ink-stick.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.4
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• pp.13-24
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• 1981

The color yellow was considered from ancient time to the Chosun Dynasty as the central color. Thus, this color became the royal color for the costumes in the palace. It is generally known to usthat the color yellow was controled in use both for the general public and in the royal palaces. However, in the later part of Chosun Dynasty, the color yellow was used not only for the king's costumes but also used for women's tops and for the linings of clothing. Especially, in some of the costumes that belonged to the later period of the Chosun Dynasty, we can still see lots of bright yellow tops. Also there are many green dyed official robes and various costumes for women. It is a true fact that people could not derive the color green from the plants as they did with yellow. The only way they could make the color green was to mix indigo and yellow together. By repeating the difficult process of making various dyes constantly during many centuries, the Korean people developed the marvelous technique of making natural color. Those plants used to make the color yellow are ; Gardenia, Phellodendron amurense, Turmeric, Coptis, Safflower, Arthraxon hispidus, Styphnolobium japonicum. While synthetic dye causes pollution, natural coloring by plants is as safe and useful as the color itself is lovely. Yet it is tragic to know that this traditional culture of making beautiful natural colors was cut off. There is no way to know today the traditionally correct method to derive colors from the plants. Therefore, it is our aim and challenge to find out the original way to dye and develop it and preserve it as our non-polluted folk art. In regard to natural dyeing, we must say that is very difficult to prepare and preserve natural dyes. In the first place, people had to get the right plants at an appropriate time. Then they could not keep those plants too long. Finally, much depended upon the mordant as well as various conditions and dyeing procedures. All those things influenced greatly the quality of color, some times producing a very pretty color and other times a very dull one. It is very appropriate that the natural dye art should be recognized and appreciated anew by Korea since it provides satisfaction to historical and folk artistic demands as well as to those of fashion conscious modern society for high quality consumption items. We propose two stages of development. The first stage is to explore native dye plants and encourage their cultivation. The second stage is to extract from the plants desirable dye which will enhance national culture.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.3-14
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• 2016

This study is aimed to measure the physical colorimetric property according to three conditions, natural dyestuffs (Gardenia, Sappan wood, Lac, Gardenia blue, Mugwort, and Indigo), fabric types (cotton, silk), and presence of mordant (without, with), and then to evaluate the psychological sensibility. Also, to perform analysis of variance (ANOVA) to find out the differences of physical properties according to the three natural dyeing conditions, and to analyze the relationship between physical property and psychological property by Pearson's correlation analysis and then suggest the prediction model by regression analysis using SPSS program (ver. 21.0). Finally, to propose a certain sensibility image map of naturally dyed fabrics, MDS (Multidimensional Scaling) was used, and as a result, Gardenia dyed fabrics having the color sensibilities such as 'hard' and 'heavy' were suggested to evoke masculine image, and to evoke feminine image, Sappan wood and Lac having 'bright', 'transparent', 'soft' and 'light' sensibilities were suggested. Natural image might be induced by using 'subdued' Mugwort dyed fabrics, and active image might be induced by using 'showy' Indigo dyed fabric.

• Korean Journal of Plant Resources
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.543-549
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• 2012

To gather the basic data for increasing the utilization of Isatis tinctoria, we examined the effects of both antioxidative enzyme activity and antimicrobial activity from the extract of Isatis tinctoria. Ascorbate Peroxidase activities reveal that there is an decrease in order; ethanol extract from its stem (1601.7 Unit/mg protein), methanol extract from its leaf (1133.7 Unit/mg protein) and distilled water extract from its leaf (524.3 Unit/mg protein). Catalase activities reveal that there is an decrease in order; ethanol extract from its flower petal (177.1 Unit/mg protein), methanol extract from its leaf (120.8 Unit/mg protein) and distilled water extract from its flower petal (55.4 Unit/mg protein). Peroxidase activities reveal that there is an decrease in order; ethanol extract from its flower petal (27.1 Unit/mg protein), methanol extract from its flower petal (14.6 Unit/mg protein) and distilled water extract from its stem (10.4 Unit/mg protein). Superoxide dismutase activities reveal that there is an increase in order; distilled water extract from its root (90.8%), methanol extract from its flower petal (80.1%) and ethanol extract from its root (75.5%). Its flower extract showed a antimicrobial activity only against Vibrio parahaemolyticus, its root extract had only against Staphylococcus aureus, and its stem extract had against Bacillus subtilis, Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus, regardless of solvents. Especially, distilled water extract from its leaf showed a high antimicrobial activity against both Bacillus subtilis and Escherichia coli and inhibition diameters against those were 30.0 and 24.0 mm, respectively.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.140-151
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• 2017

This study researched the status and prospect of the natural dye program in the Gyeongsang region, with a focus on private centers with sufficient infrastructure and abundant human resources available for natural dyes. Metropolitan cities do not own the drying house and the agricultural land for natural dyes as well as have difficulty securing the land; therefore, entire sites are limited and smaller as they are closer to the city. The one-time program of all centers has been researched to help promote and maintain centers rather than generate profit. It is shown that June-August (summer) is preferred over December-February (winter). Natural dye programs for hobby and education are operated as needed because the number of participants are low. This program uses natural indigo and Persimmon Juice for the dyeing raw materials. Programs are often outsourced by other institutes with a private certification registration system the starting of a business after obtaining certification are often found in institutes operating programs directly. Future plans do not include investments in facilities (like the enlargement of experience centers) the prospect of programs and business value is bright for business strategies that include an exhibition shop for natural dye products and program development.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.9-15
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• 2002

Compared with synthetic dyes, natural dyes have inferior colorfastness as a result of the exposure of the material to any environment that may be encountered during the processing, testing, storage, display or use of the dyed materials. Especially, colors on fabrics fade excessively after washing. Therefore, it is problem to infer the historic textiles with natural-dyed fabrics. The object of this study is to analyse the factors affected to colorfastness and color change during washing. In experimental, fifteen natural dyes were dyed by the Korean traditional dyeing methods onto natural fiber fabrics: cotton, silk, ramie, and flex. Total 49 dyed fabrics in combination with dyes and fibers were used for the specimen. The Launder-Ometer was used for evaluating the effects of exposure to repetitive washing from 1 to 20 washing cycles (KS K 0430). Color difference(ΔE) in the CIEL＊A＊B＊ color-order system were determined by spectrophotometer at 100 bserver. Washing caused significant changes in the color of natural-dyed fabrics. The degree and nature of color changes on the fabrics were dependent on the combination of fiber and the dye type used. The groups of violet(Lithospermum erythrorhizon Sieb.et Zucc) and black color(Ailanthus altissima Swingle, Phus trichocarpa Miq) yielded excellent colorfastness to repetitive washing. The group of indigo blue color(Polygonum tinctorium Lour.) was also very resistant to color change in washing except silk. Whereas the dye groups of Red, Yellow, Orange, Brown colors indicated greatest changes in color, particularly Carthamus tinctorius L.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.296-301
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• 2017

This study researched the status and prospect of a natural dye program in Gyeongsang region that focused on private centers with sufficient infrastructure and abundant human resources were available for natural dyes. The entire site for metropolitan cities that have difficulty in securing the land are limited (as well as smaller) because they are closer to the city; in addition, they do not own the drying house and the agricultural land for natural dyes. It is understood that the one-time program of all centers researched help to promote and maintain the centers rather than generating profit; in addition, it is shown that Jun - Aug (summer) is preferred over Dec - Feb (winter). This program uses natural indigo; consequently, natural dye program for hobby and education is operated when it is required because the number of participants are low in most cases, Persimmon Juice is used for the dyeing raw materials. Programs in operation are often outsourced with other institutes registered under private certification system; therefore, many cases of starting business are found in the institutes operating programs directly after obtaining the certification. Their plans do not allow for investment in facility such as enlargement of experience center and prospect of program; in addition, business value is generally bright for business strategies that include an exhibition shop for natural dye products and program development.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.45-53
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• 2004

Natural dyes have poor colorfastness as a result of the exposure of the dyed fabric to sunlight encountered during the display or wearing. As colors on fabrics fade excessively under sunlight, it is a problem to infer and restore the historic textiles with natural-dyed fabrics to original colors. The object of this study is to analyse the factors affected to color change under light. In experimental, fifteen natural dyes were dyed by the Korean traditional dyeing methods onto natural fiber fabrics: cotton, silk, ramie, and flex. Total 49 dyed fabrics in combination with dyes and fibers were used for the specimen. The Weather-O-meter was used for evaluating the effects of exposure to light for 2.5 to 450 hours. The process of color changes in the CIEL *A*B* color-order system to the exposure time were determined by spectrophotometer at 10$^{\circ}$ observer. Sunlight exposure caused significant changes in the color of natural-dyed fabrics. The degree and nature of color changes on the fabrics were dependent on the combination of fiber and the type of dye used. The groups of violet(Lithospermum erythrorhizon Sieb.et Zucc.) and black color(Ailanthus altissima Swingle, Phus trichocarpa Miq) yielded excellent colorfastness to light. The group of indigo blue color(Polygonum tinctorium Lour.) was also very resistant to fading in both exposure except silk. Whereas the dye groups of Red, Yellow, Orange, Brown colors indicated greatest changes in fading, particularly Carthamus tinctorius L.

• Korean Journal of Plant Resources
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• v.29 no.1
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• pp.32-38
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• 2016

In order to improved use of Persicaria tinctoria seeds and to get basic information, general composition, fatty acid, mineral, amind acid analysis and physiological activity of methanol extract of Persicaria tinctoria seeds were investigated. Total calories of Persicaria tinctoria seeds were 348.00 kcal/100 g, general composition, carbohydrate, crude protein, crude fat and crude ash consisted of 7.85%, 67.90%, 10.10%, 4.00% and 10.15%, respectively. The amount of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids was showed 0.9048 g/100 g and 2,714 g/100 g, respectively. Minerals contained 100g of Persicaria tinctoria seeds were followed by K (549.5 ㎎), Mg (264.4 ㎎), Ca (216.2 ㎎), Fe (12.1 ㎎), Zn (3.0 ㎎). Total 15 kinds of amino acids were detected, these amino acids displayed higher value in the alanine (1,432.6 ㎎/100 g) and glutamic acid (1,088.8 ㎎/100 g). Total polyphenol and flavonoid contents were 11.08 ㎎/L and 3.56 ㎎/L, respectively. DPPH radical scavenging and ABTS radical scavenging activity in the methanol extract of 1,000 ㎎/L was showed 86.74% and 61.74%, respectively.