• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.3
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• pp.357-370
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• 2013

The Republican Period of China (1912 to 1949) was when the archetypes of thought (constituting contemporary China) engaged in heated rivalry and were directly influenced by Korea through frequent exchanges. This study analyzes the characteristic of Chinese women's aesthetics towards the human body with a focus on visual materials (such as articles and illustrations concerning hairstyle, makeup, skincare, fashion, and gymnastics) featured in the Chinese women magazines of Fun$\ddot{u}$zazhi (婦女雜誌) and Linglong (玲瓏). This study analyzes these magazines and compares them with Korean counterparts. The movement of the developed and controlled human body was a common characteristic of this period; however, compared to the Chinese, the Japanese colonial period of Korea resulted in an introspective self-examination through excessively objectified eyes. Dress and adornment as the symbol of a new civilization acted as the most remarkable signifier. The overlapping of a western image with a Japanese image led to more resistance in Korea. The criterion for the value of a women's external appearance (that traditionally dualized womanly virtues) collapsed and dress was accepted as an expression of individuality instead of as a social class. The human body was traditionally recognized as a microcosm of the universe that dominated the natural principle of Yin-Yang and the Five Elements. However, the ideal human body was postulated and the aesthetic consciousness of the body changed into an imaginary view of the human body that proceeded to keep the body fit for and gave birth to the concept of supplementing the deficiency of the beauty of the human body with dress and makeup.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.11-22
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• 2008

The goal of this study is to provide beauticians with the fundamental material to use effectively heat permanent wave in beauty industry as well as their customer's satisfaction. It carried out an experiment with damaged hair of a woman in her late twenties to investigate the change of physical and morphological characteristics by its water content when performing heat permanent wave. After spreading 0g, 1g, 2g, 3g, and 4g of water on damaged hair respectively, heat permanent wave was treated and the change of hair was observed. The change of physical characteristic was compared through permanent wave form of hair, tensile strength and elongation. The change of morphological characteristic was observed through Scanning Electron Microscope(SEM) and Transmission Electron Microscope(TEM). The result of experiment on the physical specificity revealed that permanent wave form was the most ideal when the water content was 2g, also 3g. Though the materials with much moisture content formed the results were not satisfied. The material with 0g of water content didn't make the wave. In terms of tensile strength and elongation, tensile strength was generally reduced as per the damaged degree of hair. On the contrary, elongation was increased. It observed the changes of morphological characteristic that the damage on hair cuticle was deepen, as its moisture content was decreased, and cuticle's surface was worn away. The observation of fine structure on hair section by transmission electronic microscope also certainly showed the result that damaged hair having experience with chemical treatment had got much damaged to hair cuticle as well as hair cortex. Generally chemical treatment makes hair damaged. Under consideration of this aspect, the ultimate goal of this thesis is to minimize the damage of hair caused by chemical treatment and get the satisfaction on the hair style. According to the result of experiment, the damaged hair whose moisture content was 3g showed the best permanent wave form.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.613-628
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• 2013

This study aims to identify characteristics of neo-naturalism coming from periodical changes in the 21th society, culture based on naturalism and analyze the expressional and design characteristics of neo-naturalism on 2000s. For a research method, this study researched development of naturalism in fashion, and searched digital naturalism and ecology which are design paradigm effecting on neo-naturalism through literature research and preliminary study. Analyzing preliminary study on architecture, interior, fashion about digital naturalism and ecology design, concept of neo-naturalism identified and four expressional characteristics of neo-naturalism was classified, actual examples of neo-naturalism in 21th fashion were extracted and drew design characteristics. The results are as followings. Firstly, naturalism described nature as it is and developed according to the values and needs of the times. Naturalism in fashion showed natrual human body's curve, nature pattern and used natural materical focused on ideal beauty of nature. Secondly, neo-naturalism renews with the foundation of digital culture and ecology design paradigm, and focuses on the flexible possibility to express nature with digital, new media and formative art, and made the artificial nature uniting human-nature-environment as organic whole by ecology design paradigm. Thirdly, design of neo-naturalism divided four characteristics, nature's organic form, combination with the technology, ethical harmony with nature, global local design. The first characteristics of the nature's organic form are expressing silhouette of the nature's organic volume abstractly, the second ones of the combination with the technology are reinterpreting primitive nature contemporary with artificial sensibility of high technology, the third ones of the ethical harmony with nature are showing simple design and high-touch, and the forth ones of global local design are expressing cultural hybrid preserving vernacular design.

• Journal of Family Resource Management and Policy Review
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.61-84
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• 2004

This thesis attempted to generate ideal tea culture space that connects environment and culture. Therefore, this examines: First, history of tea and the characteristics of tea culture space from Gochosun to modern times was reviewed Second, psychological factors (spirit of tea) of Korea tea culture space were reviewed. Third, the connection between the concept of tea culture space and Human Ecosystem Model by was analyzed. Also, this thesis examined how the culture of ecosystem and why tea culture space is needed. because tea includes varieties of ingredients for protecting environmental pollution. Finally, tea culture spaces were reviewed each region during Chosun dynasty, and tea culture space of recent tea users. In order to study tea culture space, complex residential area and single residential areas were compared. The useful of tea culture space as a ecological space was also examined. To achieve the purpose of this study, related literatures were reviewed, and investigations of museums and a survey on modern living space were also conducted. The results show that the space of our tea culture were affected by nature worshipping of Gochosun, Buddhism of Koryo, and Confusianism of Chosun with 'Pungryu', the idea that enjoys nature, thereby applying environment-friendly ecological beauty to their living space and life. The cultyral space in Korea is composed of natural environment such as mountain, sea, rock, or trees and artificial environment such as pond or pavilion. In the future, oriental culture with metaphysical value will lead the world culture, and especially, tea culture would play an important role regardless of nationality, race, religion, and ideology. Therefore, establishing a tea culture space in a living space would be the fundamental methods that would be able to settle down such tea life into our daily life. Our attempts to create ecological tea culture space as a integrated cultural space of natural, artificial, and human behavioral environment will contribute to enhance our quality of life.

• Maxillofacial Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery
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• v.40
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• pp.20.1-20.10
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• 2018

Background: In the absence of clear guidelines for facial aesthetic surgery, most surgeons rely on expert intuitive judgement when planning aesthetic and reconstructive surgery. One of the most famous theories regarding "ideal" facial proportions is that of the golden proportion. However, there are conflicting opinions as to whether it can be used to assess facial attractiveness. The aim of this investigation was to assess facial ratios of professional black models and to compare the ratios with the golden proportion. Methods: Forty photographs of male and female professional black models were collected. Observers were asked to assign a score from 1 to 10 (1 = not very attractive, 10 = very attractive). A total of 287 responses were analysed for grading behaviour according to various demographic factors by two groups of observers. The best graded photographs were compared with the least well-graded photographs to identify any differences in their facial ratios. The models' facial ratios were calculated and compared with the golden proportion. Results: Differences in grading behaviour were observed amongst the two assessment groups. Only one out of the 12 facial ratios was not significantly different from the golden proportion. Conclusions: Only one facial ratio was observed to be similar to the golden proportion in professional model facial photographs. No correlation was found between facial ratios in professional black models with the golden proportion. It is proposed that an individualistic treatment for each ratio is a rather better method to guide future practice.

• Journal of the Korean housing association
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.121-133
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to analyze the design characteristics of external appearances of Hundertwasser's housing projects through both literature review and field study, and to understand how Hundertwasser's architecture philosophy was embodied in the design of external appearances so such projects. The subjects of the analysis are: Hundertwasser House; In the Meadow Bad Soden; The Forest Spiral Darmstadt; and The Green Citadel Magdeburg. The conclusion of the study is as follows. The fundamental architecture philosophy of Hunderwasser is the close linkage between mankind and nature. He has proven, through his four housing projects mentioned above, that it is possible to build houses without destroying and in harmony with nature. Hundertwasser had identified vitality, irregularity and diversity as being the source of beauty of nature. Using the human creativity, he had embodied such elements into his housing projects, thus suggesting an ideal housing environment whereby humanity is respected. Hundertwasser made use of organic curved line and spiral shapes that exist in nature when designing his housing projects. His creativity was articulated through vitality, diversity, and irregularity in colour schemes and a wide range of form. Indeed, he was an architect pursuing the underlying nature of both human and nature. The current living environment in Korea can be characterized as being standardized and desolate, which is a result of housing projects being focused too much on functionalism. Through its analysis of Hundertwasser's housing projects, one of the objectives of this study is to contribute to a new design paradigm being called for today, including for housing projects to be more ecological and environmental-friendly. By motivating architects and appealing to their clients, this study hopes to motivate those involved in various housing projects to think progressively. Such an attitude change could assist in transforming and thus enhancing the overall living environment in Korea.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.1
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• pp.119-129
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• 1977

It is significant for developing the future for us to know our present age. In order to preserve our Korean costume as a fola clothes retaining our distinguished independent characterisitics and to help design the tomorrow of our Korean costume playing a role as a racial to develop the world clothing culture, a survey was conducted to investigate modern people's conscious-ness and wearing practumes of Korean costume by questionaire and interviewing methods. The results of the survey were analyzed as follows: (1) At present, Korean costumes were purchased as customtailored(64.0%) and as ready-made(17.8%) and most of them were not made at individual homes. The laundry and ironing of them were carried out at laundry shops(68.8%). Considering our present economic, social and cultural aspects, sowing, laundryand ironing will not be carried out at homes again in the future and ready made costumes seen to be produced in a large scale in the future. Garment makers and laundry shop operators should be trained how to make our Korean costumes retain our traditional beauty in the course of their production and laundry and the makers of ready-made costumes must make research how to efficiently produce ideal ready-made costumes by adopting the synchro system in their wrk odisivion. (2) The age group wearing Korean costumes most frequently was the aged people over 60 (their wearing rate; 45%-50%) and the group wearing them most frequently next io the aged people over 60, was housewives(their wearing rate; 15%-20%). Excludign aged people and housewives, other respondentsdid not wear Korean costumes very frequently. Men's wearing rate was lower their wearing rate was the younger their ages were and the less their monthly incomes were. Korean costumes were used for holiday and festival(60%), wedding and funeral ceremonies (52%), visiting and working(22%), casual wear(12.8%) and home wear(9.2%). The use of Korean costumes as casual and home wears, was lower than the use for holday, festival, visiting and working, Under our present circumstances in which our Korean people use both Western style clothes and Korean costumer, our Korean costume has lostits position as a basic and necessary requiement in Korean people's daily life and become a ceremonical and fancy costume. It is natural that the times and life change everything in our daily life. Our costume has to be made as good ceremonial and fancy clothes satisfying modern sensibility according to its new role. In order for us to get close with our clothes, a keen study must be carried out to cleat the color, material, style, function and harmony of the Korean costume matching the of the times. (3) The 47.8% of the respondents answered that they were proud of our Korean costume as our folk clothes, 47.6% replied that thought them just common and 1.1% responded that they were ashamed of it. Most of them were affirmative in feeling pride with our Korean costume. (4) Considering the functional aspect of Korean costumes, their strong points were symetric beauty, rhythmical beauty, unity feeling, harmonical beauty and detailed decorations. Their common shortcomings were lack of individuality and inadequateness for active life. The shortcomings of woman costumes were suppressing breast, making resperation difficult and in adequnteness in summer time. The main reason not to wear our Korean costumes, was due to the fact that they are incomvenient for active life. As a measure to eliminate such shortcomings, 1) the suspension system of skirt to remove the suppression of breast should be generally adopted. 2) they should be simplified in their structure to make them convenient for active life and adepuate in wearing them in hot weather in an extent to which the traditional beauty of the costume may not be lostand 3) a new technique must be explored for showing individuality by wearing method and new arrangment of colors and decorations. (5) The reasons desiring to wear Korean costumes were classifide as follows: A. Korean costumes are our traditional clothes(43.4%). B. Korean costumes are noble and beautiful(26.8%). C. They are accustomed to wear Korean costumes by habit(19.5%). D. Korean costumes are necessary for attending ceremoneis(9.5%). E. Miscellaneous reasons(0.8%). Classifying these reasons into age groups, the high age group over 40 wore them because they were easy to wear by habit and the low age group of 10-30 never thought that they were east to wear by habit. Considering that even those who were accustomed to wear Korean costumes showed a low wearing rate and that the young generation were accustomed to wear Western style clothes rather than Korean costumes, the wearing rate of Korean costumes will be reduced in the future if such trend continues. It is urgent for us to make our best efforts in order to enhance the interest of young generation in Korean costumes and not to make them lose the strong points of Korean costume in the future. (6) Conicering the plan of the respondents on what kind of clothes they were going to wear in the future, among the age group over 50, those who wanted to wear only Korean costumes were 24.8%(men) and 35.1%(women), those who wanted to wear 49.7%(men) and 47.4(women), those who wanted to wear chiefly Western style clothes were 20.7% (men) and 14.4%(women) and those who wanted to wear only Western style clothes, were 2.4% (men) and 2.1%(women). This shows that the general tendency to wear only or chiefly Korean costumes is more prevalent than that to wear only Western style. Among the age group under 50, the tendency to wear Western style clothes was conspicuous and most of the respondent answered that they would wear chiefly Western style clothes and Korean costumes occasionally. Only 5.4% of the respondent answered that they would wear only Western style clothes and this shows that meny respondents still wonted to wear Korean costumes. Those who wanted their descendants to wear what they desire, were 50.1%(men) and 68.8% (women) and those who wanted their descendants to wear Koran costumes occasionally, were 85.8%(men) and 86.3%(women). This shows that most of respondents wanted their descendants to wear Korean costumes. In order to realize, it is necessory for us to make ourdescendants recognize the preciousness of our traditional culture and modify our Korean costumes according to their taste so that they may like wearing them.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Landscape Architecture
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• v.38 no.1
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• pp.98-106
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• 2010

Bangseonmun(訪仙門) is the attractive spots where Shinseon(神仙: Taoist hermit) ideas that makes Mt. Younju(瀛洲山) or the current Mt. Halla mystique has still remained and situated at Hancheon(漢川) Valley. Bangseonmun, which is known as 'Landscape Setting Here($L_{SH}$)' of Youngguchunhwa(瀛丘春花), which is one of ten famous spots in Youngjusipkyung(瀛洲十景), and Deulreonggui refer to 'the gate to the place where Shinseon is living.' It is described as the path to Mt. Youngju for Shinseon and the boundary between the mundane world and the world beyond the mundane. The old scholars at Mt. Halla entered the gate and met Shinseon, carving the word or picture of Bangseonmun, Whanseonmun, Wuseondae or Deungyounggu so as to structure the enchanting image on Bangseonmun. It is the poetic expression of the taste for the arts, breaking from the troublesome mundane world and riding the white deer to become the Shinseon, the desire for the ideal world in Taoism, and the identity of four famous scenic spots of Bangseonmun. Besides its enchanting meaning and the locational value of Bangseonmun, geological features of the valley and river and ecological value prove its unique value as a natural scenic beauty. Not to mention the locational identity and enchanting meaning of the poets carved in Meeaegak of Bangseonmun and the scenic view of 'Youngguchunhwa' as the subject of 10 famous scenes of Youngju, it is the place for communing with nature with the natural beauty of Bangseonmun Valley. As the cultural place for being together with Jeju people, it simultaneously shows the typical model as a scenic spot in our living. Viewing the scenic value and standard from the aspect of the Cultural Properties Protection Law, Bangseonmun Valley in Jeju must be the typical place and space that meet the requirements to become scenic sites.

• The Journal of Art Theory & Practice
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• no.1
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• pp.145-168
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• 2003

Im 18. Jahrhundert stritt man urn allgemeing$\"{u}$ltige Kriterien f$\"{u}$r die Kunstkritik, welche ebenda aufzubl$\"{u}$hen begann. Im Zentrum dieser Auseinandersetzung, die uns als "Laokoon-streit" bekannt ist, befanden sich Johann Joachim Winckelmann einerseits und ein franz$\"{o}$sischer Bildhauer Etienne-Maurice Falconet(1716-1791) andererseits. Die beiden waren von ganz unterschiedlichen Kunstideen $\"{u}$berzeugt. Obwohl sie niemals zusammentraf, fielen sie in eine heftige schriftliche Diskussion. Wie bekannt, vertrat Winckelmann den aufkommenden Klassizismus. Er setzte die griechische Kunst auf die h$\"{o}$chste Rangstufe auf und bezeichnet sie als Tr$\"{a}$ger der sogenannten "edlen Einfalt und stillen Gr$\"{o}{\beta}$e, die sonst in der Natur verborgen bleibe. Nach Winckelmann sollte der K$\"{u}$nstler die griechischen Vorbilder wie Apollo von Belvedere und Laokoon nachahmen, um das wesentlich Sch$\"{o}$ne zu erlernen. Falconet $\"{u}$bte eine scharfe Kritik gegen die Meinung Winckelmanns und die Diletantismus in der Kunstkritik aus. Selbst als Theoretiker warf er vor, dass die Klassizisten um ihr dogmatisch struktuiertes Lehrgeb$\"{a}$ude willen alle andere Eigenschaften der Kunst sowie Kunstwerke $\"{u}$bersahen und ihre Apotheose der klassischen Kunst auf die Entwicklung der Kunst eher als Hindernis wirkte. Im besonderen Hinblick auf den Ausdruck der menschlichen Leidenschaft distanzierte Falconet sich von der Lehrmeinung des Klassizismus, n$\"{a}$mlich Zur$\"{u}$ckhaltung derselben Leidenschaft wegen der idealen Sch$\"{o}$nheit. Vor dem Laokoon teilten Falconet und die Klassizisten ihre Meinung un$\"{u}$berbr$\"{u}$ckbar voneinander. F$\"{u}$r diese war der Laokoon die Repr$\"{a}$sentation des erhabenen Menschen, der leidet, ohne seinen Affekt zu enth$\"{u}$llen. Im Gegensatz sah Falconet in demselben Werk einen erlungenen Ausdruck des menschlichen Gef$\"{u}$hls. Sein Deb$\"{u}$twerk ist also die Visualisierung seiner Kunstauffassung. Unter Einfluss Pierre Pugets sowie seines Lehrers Jean-Baptiste Lemoyne bem$\"{u}$ht er sich darum, den Ausdruck der menschlichen Leidenschaft durch kunsttechnische Leistung und wissenschaftliche Forschung zu erstarken. Daraus ergab sich die expressive Ausdrucksform des Affekts. In diesem Fall verband sich Falconet mit der Tradition des barocken Kunstwollens, aber er ging einen Schritt weiter, indem er die Ausdrucksweise noch realistischer und lebendiger zu machen vermag. Faconet war vielleicht der einzige K$\"{u}$nstler, der Vorteile det barocken Kunst ausnut zen konnte, ohne dabei die klassische und realistische Formensprache zu verlieren. Dutch sein Werk und seine theoretischen Schriften er$\"{o}$ffnete er neue Prinzipien sowohl f$\"{u}$r die Kunstpraxis als auch f$\"{u}$r die Kunstkritik, deren wesentliche Sinn jedoch erst in der Romantik anerkannt wurde.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.4 s.94
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• pp.62-78
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• 2005

The modern period was the time that the most radical and extensive social and mental changes were occurring throughout the history, and modernism was prevailing as a general cognition system of people. Modernism, which carries principles of progress, belief in application of scientific technology, worship of reason, ideal of liberty as a col-e value of civilization, was plated as a leading ideology in the realm of society, culture and art In the early 20th century. In this study, the formative characteristics of modernism seen in architecture and fashion are analogized and analyzed in four ways ell the basis of the theory of p. Greenhalgh. First, 'Standardization for mass-production', which is analogized which P. Greenhalgh's 'Decompart-mentalisation', 'Social Morality', and' Technology'. Standardization for mass-production in architecture focuses on the development of a design prototype in order to mass produce; the development of ready-made clothes is actively done ill the fashion area for the same purpose as well. Second, 'Rational functionality' coming from P. Greenhalgh's 'The total work of art' and 'Function'. While rational functionality in architecture puts an emphasis on the rational operation of all the functions in regard to the relation between each part and the whole, rational functionality in fashion call be mainly seen in a dramatic increase in physical activity which could be hardly found before the modernism period. Namely, all the fashion design elements are developed for a certain rational and functional design on each part as well as on the whole in order to greatly increase physical activity. Third, 'the pursuit for genuineness of objects and universality of beauty' is on the analogy of P Greenhalgh's 'Truth', 'Anti-historicism', 'Abstraction', 'Internationalism/Universality'. This idea is adopted in architecture in the form of design of geometrical abstraction. In the same way, design using geometrical abstraction comes to have a significant meaning in fashion of the modernism period. So to speak, modernism architecture and fashion can be reborn to become an inter·national style by giving up the decorative and regional design prevailing before modernism and by expressing universal aesthetics in the form of simplicity and abstraction instead. Fourth, 'Expression of progress through a change in a viewpoint' stems from P. Greenhalgh's 'Progress', 'Transformation of Consciousness', 'Theology'. In architecture, this concept appears by using new construction materials and methods and by representing new aesthetical idea. As a result, it makes it possible for people to make progress for better lives. Like in architecture, new attempts for material application and processing are made in fashion. This gives rise to a general change in a viewpoint related to fashion, so that a flew fashion design which there has never been before can come out.